INSTRUCTION MANUAL Model BLCS
"IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS" When using overlock machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following. Read all instructions before using this overlock machine. DANGER- To reduce the risk of electric shock. 1. The overlock machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this overlock machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. 2. Always unplug before replacing light bulb.
Welcome to the Baby Lock Cover Stitch Machine Your Baby Lock Cover Stitch machine provides a variety of chain and cover stitches, allowing you to create professional looking hems just like the ready-to-wear fashions in stores. A variety of stitch widths and lengths also provide options for creating the look you want. Your Baby Lock Cover Stitch is a high-quality, dependable machine. The patented Jet-Air Threading system makes threading the looper a breeze.
T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S 2 Table of Contents OVERVIEW ..................................................................................................................4 How Your Machine Operates ................................................................................ 4 Overview of the Baby Lock ................................................................................... 5 Accessories ......................................................................................................
Table of Contents (Cont.) CHAIN/COVER STITCH ............................................................................................ 18 Chain Stitching .............................................................................................. 18/19 Chain Stitch - Tension Adjustment...................................................... 19 Cover Stitch - Right Narrow - 3mm ............................................................. 20/21 Cover Stitch Tension Adjustment .............................
O V E R V I E W 4 How Your Machine Operates Awareness of its simple operation will enable you to become more proficient in its use. Please read all instructions before using your new machine. Use one, two or three chain/cover stitch needles and one looper for a chain or cover stitch. When forming a chain stitch, the chain needle thread catches the chain looper to form a straight stitch on the top of your fabric and thread chain loops on the underside.
Overview of the Baby Lock 1. Presser foot pressure adjusting screw 16. Accessory compartment & spool stand 2. Machine lock button release lever 17. Differential feed adjusting lever 3. Machine lock button 18. Left needle tension dial 4. Presser foot thread release lever* 19. Center needle tension dial 5. Looper threading lever 20. Right needle tension dial 6. Thread cutter 21. Looper tension dial 7. Needle height viewing area 22. Needle drop drawer 8. Needle clamp screw 23.
O V E R V I E W 6 Accessories Your Baby Lock has a built-in accessory compartment. To open, swing the "lid" on the thread spoolstand to the right to reveal the tray holding some of the accessories listed below. Others may be found in the machine packing materials.
Needles Your Baby Lock is set up with Schmetz ELx705CF needles size 90/14. This is suitable for most medium and heavyweight fabrics. For lightweight fabrics use size 80/12, ELx705CF needles. The ELx705CF needle is a semi-ballpoint design and is suitable for knits and wovens. Thread All types of thread may be used on your Baby Lock, but 100% long-staple polyester thread, crosswound on a cone, consistently provides the best stitch performance.
O V E R V I E W Setting Up Your Baby Lock 1. Remove machine from box After removing the packing materials from the box, gently lift your Baby Lock by grasping the handle provided on the top of the machine. Place the machine on a sewing table or any level surface that provides ample work area to the left. Place the foot controller in a pedal stay, if desired, and place it under the sewing table. 2. Plug in the machine A Plug the power cord into the machine first, then into a wall outlet.
Setting Up Your Baby Lock 5. Position the telescopic thread guide. Raise the telescopic thread guide to its highest position. Rotate the shaft to the left and right until each section "clicks" into a locked position (fig. B). 6. Opening Front table B To open the front table, place your thumb against the tab, and slide the cover to the right. A slight pull toward you will allow the cover to swing down, providing access to the chain looper. (fig. C).
O V E R V I E W Thread Cutter There is a thread cutter located on the left side of your machine. At the end of a seam, sew off the fabric edge and continue sewing to create a 5 - 6 inch(12 - 15cm) thread chain. Bring the chain of thread up and back and pull forward into the thread cutter. Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment The presser foot pressure has been preset at the factory and rarely needs adjustment.
Stitch Length The stitch length adjusting dial is conveniently located just to the left of the front cover, near the base plate (fig. A). The dial shows the stitch-length ranging from 1, for the shortest stitch, to 4 for the longest. B A Simply turn the dial aligning the desired setting with the indicator mark on the machine. A stitch length of 3mm, or about 10 stitches per inch is ideal for most fabrics. For seaming very lightweight fabrics, you may prefer a shorter stitch length.
O V E R V I E W Needle Tension Dials From left to right the dials are: Red for C1 chain needle, Yellow for C2 chain needle and Green for C3 chain needle. The tension settings range from 0 to 9. The fabric and thread that you are working with will determine what the tension setting will be. Be sure to sew test after changing the settings. Chain Looper Tension Dial The chain looper dial is color coded blue for easy identification. The tension settings range from 0 to 9.
Threading Preparation When using overlock threads (cones) place the cone securely over the spool holder on your machine. The spool holders prevent the cone from spinning, enabling the thread to feed evenly. (fig. A) When using standard sewing thread spools, use the sponge disks (sponge side up) and spool caps (on top of spool) to prevent the thread from tangling. (fig. B) A Cones with Spool Holder Thread nets can be placed over threads that tend to slip off the spool during sewing.
T H R E A D I N G Chain Looper 1. With the presser foot up and machine lock button in the locked position, see fig. A page 13. 2 Place the thread cone or spool on the "Chain Looper" spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide above the thread cone. 3. Insert the thread through the hole of the thread guide above the chain looper tension dial. Bring the thread under the chain looper tension dial, then up and over the left thread guide,making sure the thread is in the tension disk.
Chain / Cover Needles Left Needle C-1 1. Raise presser foot and place the thread on the far left spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide directly above the thread spool. See drawings below for reference. 2. Bring thread down from the telescopic antenna, snap thread into the red thread guide on the top of the machine, and then down into the red hole above the tension dial. 3.
T H R E A D I N G How To Use The Needle Threader A 1. Hold the needle threader with the arrow mark on top. Place the thread in the groove of the needle threader. (fig.A) 2. Push the needle threader against needle and slide down the groove of the needle to the eye. Push the thread into the eye of the needle. 3. With a point of the needle threader or the tweezers pull the loop of thread from the back of the needle, under the foot and to the back left.
Start to Sew When threading is complete, the loose threads should initially interlock on fabric. This is most important when sewing the chain or cover stitches. 1. Cut all threads to 4 inch (10cm) in length. All threads should then be placed over the top and left of the presser foot. The threads at this time cannot be placed under the presser foot. A 2. Place the fabric under the presser foot directly below the needles (fig. A). 3. Lower the presser foot. 4.
C H A I N S T I T C H I N G Chain Stitching The chain stitch is formed using two threads, one thread in the needle and one thread in the chain looper. Chain Stitching looks like a straight stitch on the top of the fabric while the chain looper thread forms a chain on the underside of the fabric. The chain stitch has stretchability that is not found in the conventional locked straight stitch from a sewing machine. The chain stitch is used to stabilize seams in woven fabrics and where needed in knit fabrics.
Chain Stitching - continued C H A I N S T I T C H I N G Tension Adjustments Balanced tension under side Balanced tension Chain stitch has correct tension when the needle thread sews a straight seam on the top side and the chain looper thread forms loops on the under side of the fabric. top side Needle thread is too loose Needle thread is too tight Needle thread is too loose Increase the chain /cover needle thread tension dial to a higher number.
C O V E R S T I T C H Cover Stitch -Right Narrow - 3mm The narrow cover stitch consists of two rows of straight stitching on the top side of the fabric with an overlock stitch on the underside of the fabric. This stitch is very common in the garment industry to hem knit garments. The narrow cover stitch is used on fine knits such as jersey and single knits for hemming or topstitching. The cover stitch is not limited to knit fabrics. It also works well with woven fabrics.
Cover Stitch- Right Narrow continued C O V E R S T I T C H Tension Adjustments Balanced tension under side Balanced tension Cover stitch has correct tension when the needle thread sews two rows of straight stitching on the top side and the chain looper forms a zig zag on the underside of the fabric. top side Needle thread is too loose Needle thread is too tight Needle thread is too loose Increase the chain /cover needle thread tension dial to a higher number.
Cover Stitch -Left Narrow - 3mm C O V E R The narrow cover stitch consists of two rows of straight stitching on the top side of the fabric with the overlock stitch on the underside of the fabric. This stitch is very common in the garment industry to hem knit garments. The narrow cover stitch is used on fine knits such as jersey and single knits for hemming or topstitching. The cover stitch is not limited to knit fabrics. It also works well with woven fabrics. S T I T C H For Cover Stitch: 1.
Cover Stitch- Left Narrow continued C O V E R S T I T C H Tension Adjustments Balanced tension under side Balanced tension Cover stitch has correct tension when the needle threads sew two rows of straight stitching on the top side and the chain looper forms a zig zag on the under side of the fabric. top side Needle thread is too loose Needle thread is too tight Needle thread is too loose Increase the chain /cover needle thread tension dial to a higher number.
C O V E R Cover Stitch -Wide - 6mm The wide cover stitch consists of two rows of straight stitching on top the fabric with an overlock stitch on the underside of the fabric. This stitch is very common in the garment industry to hem heavier knit fabrics such as double knits, sweatshirt fleece, and polar fleece. The wide cover stitch is not limited to knit fabrics. It also works well with medium to heavy woven fabrics. The wide cover stitch is formed using two "C" needle positions and the chain looper.
Cover Stitch-Wide-6mm continued C O V E R S T I T C H Tension Adjustments Balanced tension under side Balanced tension Cover stitch has correct tension when the needle threads sew two rows of straight stitching on the topside and the chain looper forms a zig zag on the underside of the fabric. top side Needle thread is too loose Needle thread is too tight Needle thread is too loose Increase the chain /cover needle thread tension dial to a higher number.
C O V E R Triple Cover Stitch - 6mm The Triple Cover Stitch can be used for topstitching, hemming, and elastic application . The stitch can also be used as a decorative stitch upside down with the overlock side on the right side of the fabric. The garment industry uses the Triple Cover Stitch frequently in activewear. The Triple Cover Stitch is formed using all three "C" needle positions and the chain looper.
Triple Cover Stitch continued C O V E R S T I T C H Tension Adjustments Balanced tension under side Balanced tension Triple Cover stitch has correct tension when the needle threads sew three rows of straight stitching on the topside and the chain looper forms a zig zag on the underside of the fabric. top side Needle thread is too loose Needle thread is too tight Needle thread is too loose Increase the chain /cover needle thread tension dial to a higher number.
T E C H N I Q U E S Turning Corners - Chain Stitch Sew to the point in fabric where you want to turn a corner. Stop the machine. Turn the handwheel toward you (counter clockwise) by hand, making sure the needle is going down in the fabric. Slowly start to raise the needle OUT OF FABRIC. Stop when you see the eye of the needle. (The point of the needle will still be in the fabric.) Raise the presser foot (fig A), and slowly pivot the fabric (fig B). Lower the presser foot and continue to sew (fig C).
Flat Hemming - Cover Stitch A 1. Leave one seam on the garment open. 2. Measure, turn up and press hem on garment. 3. On right side of garment mark hem allowance with marking pen. 4. Place garment right side up under the presser foot, aligning the marked hem with the needles. Make sure both needles are positioned on the raw edge of the hem (fig A). 5. Sew hem. 6. Sew seam on garment. Note: Optional guide or attachments will help with hemming. (fig.B) Ask your Baby Lock retailer.
T E C H N I Q U E S 30 Securing Chain and Cover Stitching The Chain Stitch and Cover Stitch can easily be removed. Trim the chain tail to edge of fabric and the "end" of the seam and pull on the chain looper thread on underside of the fabric. This will give you the opportunity to "Unsew" an incorrect seam very easily. To secure the chain stitch or cover stitch, at the end of the seam, bring the needle thread(s) to the back of the fabric and tug on the needle threads to secure the seam.
Using Specialty Threads Stitching with specialty threads can form beautiful stitches. These heavy or shiny threads can be used to enhance the appearance of a stitch and create special effects. Some specialty threads work well through the needle and chain looper, while others are too heavy to be threaded through the needle and are for chain looper use only. Use the "Specialty Thread Guide Chart" on page 35 as a guide for the specialty threads.
S P E C I A L T Y T H R E A D S Bypassing the Threading Port Heavyweight threads can be used through the chain looper thread paths. Specific techniques may require that the thread bypass the thread port for the thread pull to be loosened. Start with the machine threaded with regular serger thread. 1. Open front cover and raise the presser foot. 2. Just above the threading port, clip the chain looper thread. Pull the thread out of the upper guides and remove the thread cone. 3.
Looper Threading Tool A B 1. Open the front cover and raise the presser foot. 2. At the threading port, cut the chain looper thread. Remove chain looper thread from under the presser foot and the upper thread guides. Replace cone of thread with specialty thread. 3. Place the machine in "locked" position to thread the chain looper. 4. Thread specialty thread into the upper thread guides, leaving an 18-inch (40cm) tail above the threading port. 5.
S P E C I A L T Y T H R E A D S Thread Cradle for Looper A B 1. Open the front cover and raise the presser foot. 2. At the threading port, cut the chain looper thread. (fig.A) Remove thread from under the presser foot and the upper thread guides. Replace cone of thread with specialty thread. 3. Place the machine in "locked" position to thread the chain looper. 4. Thread specialty thread into the upper thread guides, leaving an 18 inch (40cm) tail above the threading port. (fig.C) 5.
Specialty Thread Guide Chart CHAIN/COVER STITCHES Topstitching Buttowhole Twist (Medium weight) Wooly Nylon (Medium weight) Metallic Threads (Light weight) 2-Thread Chain C-1, C-2, or C-3 Needle Position In chain looper only In chain looper only In needles only 3-Thread Cover Stitch In chain looper only Left Narrow Right Narrow Wide In chain looper only In needles only 4-Thread Triple Cover Stitch In chain looper only In chain looper only In needles only COMMENTS : Not recommended for needle
M A I N T E N A N C E Troubleshooting Before taking your machine in for service, check the following: Machine fails to start: 1. Are electrical plugs properly connected? 2. Is the power switch on? 3. Check household circuit breaker or fuse. 4. Is the lock button release lever in the unlocked position? Thread breaks: 1. Is the machine threaded correctly? Check each thread path carefully. 2. Is the correct needle inserted for the particular stitch? - C-1, C-2, or C-3? 3. Is the needle inserted correctly? 4.
Troubleshooting Continued Stitch Unbalanced: 1. Is the machine threaded correctly? 2. Is the proper presser foot on the machine? 3. Is the correct needle inserted and threaded? 4. Is the thread in the tensions? 5. Are the tensions set correctly for the chain/cover needles? 6. Is the tension dial set correctly for the chain looper? 7. Is the chain looper threaded correctly? 8. Is the needle thread(s) in the correct tension disk? Looper Threading Difficulties: 1.
M A I N T E N A N C E Replacing Needles Needle Identification (fig. A)The chain/cover stitch needles are on the front portion of the needle clamp and are identified by C-1,C-2 and C-3. C-1-Left chain/cover stitch needle can be used for chain stitch, left narrow cover stitch, wide cover stitch or triple cover stitch. C-2-Center chain/cover stitch needle can be used for a chain stitch, left narrow cover stitch, right narrow cover stitch or triple cover stitch.
Replacing Light Bulb 1. For safety reasons, unplug main power cord prior of replacing light bulb. 2. Open front cover. 3. Remove light bulb and replace bulb with the same type rated (15watts/110volts or 15watts/240volts). See below draft for reference.
M A I N T E N A N C E Cleaning Your Baby Lock will operate at best performance if it is kept clean at all times. Your Baby Lock's major moving parts are well protected and do not need to be oiled. However, we recommend to use the cleaning brush often during garment construction in order to keep lint off, the needle bar, the feed dog mechanism and looper. If machine needs to be oiled, check with your nearest Baby Lock retailer for use of high grade recommended sewing machine oil.
Technical Data Looper Threading System: Tension Dials: Stitch Length Dial: Differential Feed Ratio: Presser Foot: Looper Needle System: Number of Needles: Sewing Speed: Machine Weight: Light Bulb: Stitch Types: Jet Air Threading for chain looper Dials for Chain/Cover stitch needles 1.0-4.0mm 0.6 to 2.0 Snap On Foot Chain Looper Organ ELx705CF #80/12 and #90/14 3 - C-1,C-2,C-3 Up to 1500 s.p.m. 7.3 kg/16 2bs.
S E L E C T I O N C H A R T 42 Chain stitch 2 Thread Cover St. Wide Cover St. Narrow 3 Thread Triple Cover Stitch 4 Thread Stitch name 3-5 3-5 - - 3,0-4,0 C3 - 4-6 4-6 - 4-6 Right needle tension dial 3,0-4,0 - - 4-6 3-5 4-6 4-6 4-6 - 4-6 4-6 Left needle Center needle tension dial tension dial C2 3,0-4,0 3,0-4,0 C1-C3 C1 3,0-4,0 3,0-4,0 3,0-4,0 Stitch L/dial C2-C3 C1-C2 C1 / C2 / C3 Nb.
