35_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite U2 See appendix for differences in the activa 135 S Patchwork Edition 030529.52.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 1 In choosing BERNINA, you are assured of years of rewarding sewing. For over 100 years my family has concentrated on providing complete satisfaction to our customers. And it is my personal wish to continue this tradition of offering you Swiss precision engineering combined with state of the art ”Welcome to technology and an after sales service second to none.
135_145_S_engl 10.04.2003 9:50 Uhr Seite 2 2 IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using an electrical machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following. WARNING Read all instructions before using this sewing computer. To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons: When the sewing computer is not in use, it should be disconnected from the electricity supply by removing the plug from the outlet. DANGER 1. Do not allow to be used as a toy.
135_145_S_engl 10.04.2003 9:50 Uhr Seite 3 Safety instructions 6. Always use the BERNINA original needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 16. No responsibility will be taken for any possible damage as the result of misuse of the sewing computer. 7. Do not use bent needles. 17. This sewing computer is provided with double insulation. Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for Servicing of double-insulated machines. 8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.
135_145_S_engl 4 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 4 Details Details of the sewing computer 14 11 15 22 16 23 9 13 27 17 8 19 18 20 21 24 12 7 25 26 6 5 3 2 1 4 28 Front view 030529.52.
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135_145_S_engl 6 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 6 Details 42 43 40 36 45 3 39 2 4 Back view 030529.52.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 7 Details 35 Carrying handle 36 Presser foot lifter (manual) 37 Thread cutter 38 Thread take up 39 Darning ring connection 40 Accessory box connection 41 Thread tension disc 42 Rear thread guide 43 Horizontal spool pin 44 Accessory box catch 35 42 38 45 Needle Threader 46 Lens holder 36 37 46 44 43 41 Left end Sewing computer with Accessory box Accessory box 030529.52.
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he CFL nation FL placed he ught ler! 135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 9 Setting up the sewing computer 9 Accessory box D F A G H E B C Free standing accessory box • pull both feet out until they click into place • stand box in chosen position • • • Storing accessories Standard accessories are supplied in a plastic bag. The box is equipped with one small and one large drawer (B and C) as well as compartments for bobbin holders D and presser feet E.
135_145_S_engl 10 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 10 Setting up the sewing computer Power cable Foot control C A Power switch The power cable • plug A into sewing computer • plug B into wall socket Foot control cable • plug C into sewing computer The foot control regulates the sewing speed Sewing speed is adjusted by applying more or less pressure to the foot control. Important! (USA/Canada only) This sewing computer has a polarized plug (one blade B wider than the other).
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 11 Setting up the sewing computer 11 Sewing table Increases the sewing surface.
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135_145_S_engl 14 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 14 Setting up the sewing computer Inserting the bobbin Insert the bobbin Insert the bobbin so that the thread runs clockwise. Pull the thread counter clockwise into the slot. Pull the thread to the left under the spring until ... ... it lies in the T-shaped slit at the end of the spring. The bobbin must turn clockwise when thread is pulled.
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135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 17 Needle Threader Needle Threader A B Thread in hook · lower the presser foot · lay the thread behind hook B and hold lightly Lever down · press lever A down and simultaneously guide the thread around hook B to the right to the needle Thread in front of needle · put the thread from the front into the guide until it catches in the hook 030529.52.
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135_145_S_engl 20 10.04.2003 9:51 Uhr Seite 20 Setting up the sewing computer Thread tension 3 A 5 The basic setting • is indicated when the red line on the tension adjustment wheel is in line with the marking A • the tension does not need adjusting for normal sewing work • for special sewing work, the tension can be adjusted to suit the fabric The tension is factory set for the best results. Metrosene 100/2 (Arova Mettler, Switzerland) is used to set both the upper and lower thread tension.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 21 Operating instructions General instructions Main switch to 1 • the sewing sewing computer is ready to sew 0 1 2 3 4 5 5 5.5 1 4 3 3 4 2 1 5 6 0 2 The screen shows 1 stitch width basic setting blinks constantly 2 stitch length basic setting blinks constantly 3 needle position (9 positions) 4 needle stop up/down (generally up) 5 stitch number 1 (straight stitch) 6 presser foot number 1 indicator (recommended foot for selected stitch) 030529.
135_145_S_engl 22 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 22 Operating instructions Stitch* selection • stitches 1–10: touch the number of your choice; stitch number and basic width and length settings appear Note: touch «0» to select stitch number 10 (standard buttonhole) • to select stitches 11–30 (activa 135 S) or 11–50 (activa 145 S): touch #-button and the appropriate number * see p.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 23 Operating instructions 23 Functions Functions are ... activated when the symbol appears on the screen. deactivated when the symbols no longer appear on the screen. Reverse sewing quick reverse: • press button • Sewing computer sews reverse until button is released (max. stitch length 3 mm) Applications: • programming buttonholes • programming darning program • switch to straight stitch securing program (stitch No.
135_145_S_engl 24 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 24 Operating instructions #-button Stitch selection button (see p.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 25 Operating instructions 25 Memory Any combination of 30 stitches, letters or numbers can be saved in Memory, which is long term. They remain saved until deleted by the user. Power failures or disconnection from the electricity Memory buttons press left button (<) to scroll contents backwards • press centre button (mem) to open and close Memory • press right button (mem + ) to scroll contents forwards supply do not affect the Memory.
135_145_S_engl 26 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 26 Operating instructions Delete complete Memory • press «clr/del» and «mem»button at the same time • release both buttons • leave Memory by pressing the mem button • Memory is now completely deleted 0 1 2 3 4 5 5.5 5 4 3 mem 2 1 2 0 3 4 5 5.5 5 4 3 2 mem 0 1 Programming practical and decorative stitches • open Memory (p. 25) • select stitch (p.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 27 Operating instructions 1 2 3 4 5 5.5 5 4 3 2 mem 0 1 0 Programming letters, numbers and punctuation marks (activa 145 S only) • open Memory (p. 25) • press Alphabet button • select letter or number (p.
135_145_S_engl 28 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 28 Operating instructions Leave Memory • press «mem»-button = contents are saved • Memory is closed 0 1 2 3 4 5 5.5 5 «mem»-symbol disappears from the screen 4 3 2 1 0 The contents of the memory remain saved even when the sewing computer is disconnected from the electricity supply. They can be recalled at any time.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 29 Operating instructions 29 Balance Your sewing computer has been tested and factory set using a double layer of cretonne fabric and Metrosene 100/2 threads (Arova Mettler, Switzerland). Different fabrics, threads and stabilisers can naturally affect the stitch balance so that they are sewn too close together or not close enough. Applications: Practical stitches, e.g.
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135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 31 Stitches 31 Stitch selection* 1 4 7 2 5 1 Straight stitch All non-stretch fabrics. All straight stitch work 2 Zig-zag Most fabric types; all simple zig-zag such as oversewing fine fabrics. Sewing on elastic and lace 3 Vari-overlock Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch overlock seams and hems 4 Running stitch Most types of fabric. Mending, patching, reinforcing seams 5 Securing stitch All types of fabric.
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135_145_S_engl 34 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 34 Selected practical stitches: Straight stitch with securing program Securing program Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Securing program No. 5* size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton/polyester raised (sewing position) Reverse pattern foot No.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 35 Selected practical stitches: Basting stitch Basting stitch Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Basting stitch No. 15 (activa 135 S PE No. 14) size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton/polyester lowered (darning position) No. 9 Basting stitch • for all work which requires a very long stitch • for basting seams, hems, quilts, etc.
135_145_S_engl 36 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 36 Selected practical stitches: Blind hem Blind hem Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Blind stitch No. 7 size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton or polyester up (sewing position) Blind stitch foot No.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 37 Selected practical stitches: Darning 37 Darning program Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Darning Program No. 14 (activa 135 S PE No. 13) size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) darning thread up (sewing position) Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Buttonhole foot No. 3A Quick darning of holes or worn areas Replacement of damaged fibres/threads Darning with Reverse pattern foot No.
135_145_S_engl 38 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 38 Selected practical stitches: Zippers Zippers Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Needle position: Straight stitch No. 1 size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton or polyester up (sewing position) Zipper foot No.
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135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 41 Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes Automatic standard buttonhole with auto length Both beads are sewn in the same direction. Note: The automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A must lie perfectly flat on the fabric. If the foot lies on a seam, the length cannot be measured accurately. Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: 3A Standard buttonhole No. 10 size and type suitable for fabric selected (see p.
135_145_S_engl 42 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 42 Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes Programme the standard buttonhole 1 sew the first bead forwards, stop the sewing computer • press the reverse button • «auto» and presser foot No.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 43 Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes Automatic keyhole buttonhole with auto length Both beads are sewn in the same direction. Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Keyhole buttonhole No. 11 size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton or polyester up (sewing position) Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A Automatic keyhole buttonhole insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin case (p.
135_145_S_engl 44 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes 1 2 Seite 44 3 4 5 6 Programming the buttonhole 1 sew the straight stitch forward, stop the sewing computer, • press the reverse button • auto and presser foot No.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 45 Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes Manual buttonhole (all types) Manual buttonholes are particularly suitable for single buttonholes or for repairing existing buttonholes. Individual steps can be eliminated or repeated. The number of steps corresponds to the buttonhole type. Manual buttonholes cannot be saved. Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: any buttonhole size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p.
135_145_S_engl 46 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 46 Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes Sewing a manual standard buttonhole Both beads are sewn in the same direction. The individual steps blink on the screen.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 47 Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes 47 Buttonhole with gimp 3A 3A Gimp • gimp cord reinforces buttonholes and enhances their appearance • the loop of the cord should be at the end of the buttonhole most subject to wear cord loop = where button is sewn on • position the work accordingly • gimp cord is particularly recommended for standard and stretch buttonholes Ideal cords • Perle yarn No.
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135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 49 Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes Programmed buttonholes Saving programmed buttonholes in long term memory after programming press the «mem+»-button • the buttonhole is now saved in long term memory • Opening saved buttonholes Programmed saved buttonholes can be opened for re-use even after the sewing computer has been disconnected.
135_145_S_engl 50 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 50 Selected practical stitches: Button sewing-on program Button sewing-on program Stitch: Stitch width Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Button sewing-on program No. 13 (activa 135 S PE No. 12) depends on distance between the holes size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton or polyester down (darning position) Foot No. 9 Button sew-on foot No.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 51 Selected practical stitches: Button sewing-on program Sewing on buttons with foot No. 18 • set the shank length with the screw on the foot • select Button sewing-on program and continue as with foot No. 9 (p.
135_145_S_engl 52 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 52 Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams Vari-overlock seam Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: 2 Vari-overlock No. 3 size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton or polyester up (sewing position) Overlock foot No. 2 or Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches. The pin on the foot produces more thread in each stitch so that the elasticity of the seam is maintained.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 53 Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams 53 Double overlock seam Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: 2 Double overlock No. 8 size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton or polyester up (sewing position) Overlock foot No. 2 or Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches.
135_145_S_engl 54 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 54 Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams Ribbing with overlock seam Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: 2 Vari-overlock No. 3 size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton or polyester up (sewing position) Overlock foot No. 2 or Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 55 Selected practical stitches: Honeycomb stitch 55 Self-facing with Honeycomb stitch Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Honeycomb No. 19 (activa 135 S PE No. 15) universal, ballpoint or stretch as needed cotton or polyester up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No.
135_145_S_engl 56 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 56 Needles, Threads Important facts about sewing computer needles Sewing computer, needle and thread Your BERNINA uses needle system 130/705H. Needle and thread The most commonly sold needles are nos. 70 –120. The finer the needle, the lower the number. The table shows which needle is suitable for which threads.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 57 Needles Special materials are easier to sew if the appropriate needle is used. Special needles are available at your BERNINA dealer. Needle table Description Needle point Suitable for Standard needle 130/705 H Normal point, slightly rounded Universal needle for woven, needle synthetic and natural fibers, e.g.
135_145_S_engl 58 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 58 Needle, thread, fabric feed Feed-dog and fabric feed Feed-dog and stitch length With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward by one step. The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected. With an extremely short stitch length, the steps are also short. The fabric moves under the foot quite slowly, even at full sewing speed. Buttonholes, satin stitch and decorative stitches are all sewn with a very short stitch length.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 59 Needle, thread, fabric feed 59 Feed-dog and fabric feed with compensating plates 1 1 The feed-dog can work normally when the foot is level. If the foot is at an angle, e.g. when sewing over thick to thin or vice-versa, the feed-dog cannot grip and feed the fabric and the fabric hangs up. Uneven layers To solve this problem, place one, two or three compensating plates as required behind the needle under the presser foot.
135_145_S_engl 60 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 60 Cleaning and maintenance Cleaning If the sewing computer is stored in a cold room, it should be brought to a warm room about one hour before use.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 61 Cleaning and maintenance 61 Sewing light CAUTION Disconnect plug from the socket before cleaning and servicing Note: Use bulb type 12 V 5 W. W 2.1 x 9.5 d.
135_145_S_engl 62 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 62 Faults Trouble shooting In most cases you will be able to identify and remedy faults by checking the following. Check whether: the upper and lower threads are threaded correctly • the needle is inserted correctly • the needle size is correct – check the needle/thread table p.
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135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 66 Impressum Typesetting, Layout, DTP: Silvia Bartholdi Graphics: Müller-Melzer ID, Kreuzlingen © copyright 2003 by Fritz Gegauf AG, Steckborn 030529.52.
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135_145_S_engl A2 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite A2 activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Straight stitch with securing program Quilters securing program Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Quilters securing program No. 5 80 Quilting, Jeans, Sharp, or Microtex cotton/polyester or Monofilament for the upper thread and cotton or polyester for the lower thread raised (sewing position) Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Walking foot No.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite A3 activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Blanket stitch A3 Blanket stitch Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Needle position: Single blanket stitch No. 9 or Double blanket stitch No. 21 80 machine thread sewing Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Open Embroidery Foot No.
135_145_S_engl A4 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite A4 activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Stipple stitch Stipple stitch Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Needle position: Stipple stitch No. 19 80 machine thread sewing Reverse pattern foot No.
135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite A5 activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Handlook quilting Handlook quilt stitch Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Needle position: Tension: Balance: Hand-look quilt stitch No. 20 80 Quilting, Jeans, Sharp, or Microtex 0.044 monofilament for the upper thread and 40 or 30 weight cotton for the lower thread sewing Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Walking foot No.
135_145_S_engl A6 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite A6 activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Feather stitch Feather stitch Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Needle position: Feather stitch No. 22 80 machine thread sewing Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Open Embroidery Foot No. 20 center Use this delicate embroidery stitch to embellish fabric or to cover patchwork seams.