GETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX Operation Manual Computerized Sewing Machine Product Code: 885-V12/V13
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine. DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock: 1 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning, when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the machine unattended. WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
Always keep your work area clear: • Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth. • Do not store objects on the foot controller. • Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. • Never drop or insert any object into any opening. • Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8 For repair or adjustment: • If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer. • In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.
FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY IMPORTANT • In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug. • Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted. • If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.
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—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Contents IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ............................................................................... 1 Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 8 Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ..................................................................... 8 Machine ........................................................................
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................ 50 Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 50 Changing the sewing direction ....................................................................................................................... 50 Sewing curves .................................................
Introduction Thank you for choosing this product. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read “Important Safety Instructions”, and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference. Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions Machine a Bobbin winder (page 15) Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
Needle and presser foot section a Needle threader lever Use the needle threader to thread the needle. b Buttonhole lever Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks. c Presser foot holder The presser foot is attached to the presser foot holder. d Presser foot holder screw Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser foot holder in place. e Presser foot The presser foot applies pressure to the fabric during sewing. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitch.
Operation buttons The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations. a Start/stop button Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a low speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is continuously pressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered into the fabric. For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 44).
Accessories After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your dealer. Included accessories The following items should also be included in the box. Note (For U.S.A. only) ● Foot controller: Model T This foot controller can be used on this machine model NS40. ● The screw for the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: XA4813-051) 1. 2. 3. 4. 14. 10.* 11. 12. 13. 19. 20. 21. 22. 26.
■ Attaching the stitch pattern plate (for models equipped with the stitch pattern plate) The stitch pattern plate shows the stitches and the stitch numbers. A letter (A, G, J, N or R) indicating the presser foot that should be used appears below the stitch number. Attach the stitch pattern plate to the stitch pattern plate holder, and then attach the holder to the handle of the sewing machine as shown in the illustration below.
1 GETTING READY 1 Turning the Machine On/Off This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off. Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. WARNING ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine. ● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power supply jack on the machine.
GETTING READY————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — Turning on the machine Prepare the included power cord. Make sure that the sewing machine is turned ”), and then plug the power cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine. a off (the main power switch is set to “ Insert the plug of the power cord into a b household electrical outlet.
Preparing for Upper and Lower Threading Winding the bobbin 1 Wind the thread onto the bobbin. a Hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide b Pretention disk c Bobbin winder shaft d Bobbin CAUTION ● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)) designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine. ● The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine.
GETTING READY————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin. f With the slightly rounded side of the spool cap positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap onto the spool pin as far as possible to the right so that the spool is moved to the right end of the spool pin.
While using your left hand to hold the thread j that was passed through the bobbin-winding thread guide, use your right hand to wind the end of the thread clockwise around the bobbin five or six times. Press (start/stop button) once. m When the foot controller is plugged in, press down on the foot controller. X The bobbin starts spinning and the thread is wound around the bobbin.
GETTING READY— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— —— ——— —— ——— —— — —— b Installing the bobbin Turn off the sewing machine (set it to “ ”). Install the bobbin wound with thread. CAUTION ● Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect. c cover to the right, and then remove the Slide the latch on the right side of the bobbin bobbin cover.
While lightly holding down bobbin with your e right hand as shown, guide the thread through the slit (1 and 2). • At this time, check that the bobbin easily rotates counterclockwise. Then, pull the thread toward you to cut it with the cutter (3). Reattach the bobbin cover. f Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover (A), and then press down on the right side (B). 1 B A Memo a Slit b Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.
GETTING READY— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— —— ——— —— ——— —— — —— Threading the upper thread In this section, the procedures for installing the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are described. a Spool pin b Mark on handwheel CAUTION ● When threading the machine, carefully follow the instructions.
Press (needle position button) once or c twice to raise the needle. Fully insert the spool for the upper thread e onto the spool pin Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom. a Needle position button • If the needle is not correctly raised, the sewing machine cannot be threaded. Check that the mark on the handwheel points up as shown in the illustration below.
GETTING READY————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — f Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin. While holding the spool with your right hand, g pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread under the thread guide. Memo ● When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the spool.
Slide the thread into the thread take-up lever j from the right to the left. a Threading the needle This section describes how to thread the needle. ■ For models equipped with the thread guide disk Pull the end of the thread, which has been a passed through the needle bar thread guide, to the left (A), and then firmly pull it from the front (B) through the slit in the thread guide disk. Make sure that the thread passes the notch of the thread guide.
GETTING READY————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — Cut the thread with the thread cutter on the b left side of the machine. Lower the needle threader lever on the left c side of the machine, and then slowly return the lever to its original position.
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of d the thread through the presser foot, and then b Catch the thread on the hook as shown below. pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine. 1 a a a 5 cm (2 inches) X The upper threading is finished. Now that the upper threading and the lower threading are finished, you are ready to begin sewing.
GETTING READY————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader) When using specialty thread, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, a wing needle or a twin needle which cannot be used with the needle threader, thread the needle as described below.
Insert the extra spool pin onto the end of the d bobbin winder shaft. Attach zigzag foot “J”. h • For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33). a Bobbin winder shaft b Extra spool pin c Thread spool 1 CAUTION ● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. i Turn on the sewing machine. Install the thread spool and thread the upper e thread. X The LCD comes on.
GETTING READY————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — Start sewing. l • For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 44). X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to each other. Note ● When using the twin needle, the stitches may become bunched together, depending on the types of thread and fabric that are used. If this occurs, increase the stitch length.
Replacing the Needle This section provides information on sewing machine needles. 1 Needle precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below. CAUTION ● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.
GETTING READY————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — Needle types and their uses The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Checking the needle Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even. Replacing the needle Replace the needle as described below. Use the screwdriver and a correct needle, as described in “Checking the needle”. 1 a twice to raise the needle.
GETTING READY————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — Loosen the needle clamp screw and remove d the needle. Hold the needle with your left hand, and then turn the screwdriver counterclockwise with your right hand. a b a Needle clamp screw b Screwdriver • Do not apply extreme force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise damage to the machine may result.
Replacing the Presser Foot Presser foot precautions 1 Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet. CAUTION ● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break. ● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
GETTING READY————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — Place the presser foot to be installed below the e holder so that the presser foot pin is aligned Raise the presser foot lever to check that the g presser foot is securely attached. with the notch in the holder. Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (J, A, etc.) is positioned to be read.
■ Attaching the presser foot holder Align the presser foot holder with the presser a bar. a Using the optional walking foot With the optional walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when quilting. Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.
GETTING READY————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser c foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw c Raise the presser foot lever. with the screwdriver. a a a Presser foot lever a Presser foot holder screw X The presser foot is raised.
Useful Functions Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below. ■ When the needle stops in the raised position The needle stops in the raised position when sewing ends. Changing the needle stop position Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the needle in the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead, the machine can be set to leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped. a Turn off the sewing machine. Memo ● After sewing is finished, the fabric can be pulled out.
GETTING READY————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — Changing the initial needle position Normally, the straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected when the sewing machine is turned on. The machine can be set so that the straight stitch (center needle position) is automatically selected when it is turned on. a Turn off the sewing machine. b key), turn on the sewing machine.
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment. Stitching cylindrical pieces Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs. a 1 Sewing large pieces of fabric The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of fabric easier. Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left. Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide a table. Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.
GETTING READY————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — Install the wide table. c Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into place. The lower right corner section of the wide table extends over the front section of the sewing machine bed. 2 1 a Lower right corner b Sewing machine bed Note ● The optional wide table is available through your Brother dealer.
2 SEWING BASICS Starting to Sew Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions. 2 CAUTION ● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle, handwheel, and thread take-up lever, otherwise injuries may occur. ● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break. ● Never use bent needles.
SEWING BASICS ————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — Selecting a stitch Select each stitch by using the pattern selection dial. a Turn on the sewing machine. Adjusting the stitch length and width ■ Example: To select stitch Turn the pattern selection dial until “05” a appears in the LCD. Press “+” or “–” side of (stitch length b key) to adjust the stitch length.
Press “+” or “–” side of (stitch width c key) to adjust the stitch width. Positioning the fabric – + Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly. a a b c d Stitch width key Stitch width Narrow Wide Turn on the sewing machine. The straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected.
SEWING BASICS ————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — While holding the end of the thread and the d fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching. Starting to sew Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine.
b Press (start/stop button) once. Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on b the side of the sewing machine. a Start/stop button The machine starts sewing. 2 a Foot controller jack c Turn on the sewing machine. • If you continue pressing the (start/stop button) immediately after the sewing starts, the machine will sew at a slow speed. When the end of the stitching is reached, (start/stop button) once. c press X The machine stops sewing with the needle down (in the fabric).
SEWING BASICS ————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly e press down on the foot controller. Pressing down on the foot controller increases the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the foot controller decreases the sewing speed.
After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press c (reverse/reinforcement stitch button). Keep (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching. After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn, (reverse/reinforcement stitch button). g release X The machine stops sewing. Press (start/stop button), or press down on h the foot controller. At this time, if (start/stop button) is held down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
SEWING BASICS ————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — Cutting the thread a sewing machine is stopped, press When you wish to finish the stitching and the (needle position button) once to raise the needle. Automatically sewing reverse/ reinforcement stitches The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching.
After reaching the end of the stitching, press e the reverse/reinforcement stitch button once. a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button • This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn. X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are sewn, the sewing machine stops. Memo ● Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT be sewn until (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) is pressed.
SEWING BASICS ————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — Useful Sewing Tips Various ways to achieve better sewing results are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing. Trial sewing After a stitch is selected, the machine automatically sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that was selected.
■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching The fabric may not feed when thick seams are being sewn and the presser foot is not level, as shown below. In this case, use the presser foot locking pin (black button on the left side of zigzag foot “J”) so that the presser foot remains level while sewing, allowing the fabric to be fed smoothly. a CAUTION ● The thickness of fabric differs depending on the fabric type.
SEWING BASICS ————— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— ———— ——— ———— ——— —— —— —— ——— ——— —— —— — —— — ——— ———— ——— — —— — —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— —— —— ———— — While lightly holding the upper thread with Sewing hook-and-loop fastener c your left hand with the needle in the up- position, press (needle position button) twice to lower and raise the needle. CAUTION ● Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop fastener which is for sewing.
3 UTILITY STITCHES Overcasting Zigzag stitch 3-point zigzag stitch Overcasting on medium weight or J 06 06 06 06 stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc. Overcasting on thin G 07 07 07 07 or medium weight fabrics Manual Auto Manual 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J” Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” a Turn on the machine. a Turn on the machine. b With the pattern selection dial, b With the pattern selection dial, select , or . select Attach zigzag foot “J”. , or . Attach overcasting foot “G”.
Basic Stitching Straight stitch Center Triple stretch stitch Manual Walking Foot Application Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Auto Manual Auto 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes *1 (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J) Yes Reverse 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes *1 (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J) Yes Reverse Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams, sew0.0 J 03 03 03 03 ing stretch fabrics (0) and decorative stitching 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 1.5–4.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Blind Hem Stitching Blind hem stitch Application Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Auto Manual Auto Blind hem stitching R 11 11 11 11 on medium weight fabrics 0 (0) –3 – 3 2.0 1.0–3.5 No No Reinforcement (1/16) (1/16–1/8) Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics 0 (0) –3 – 3 2.0 1.0–3.
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded e hem against the guide of the presser foot, and Memo then lower the presser foot lever. If the needle is incorrectly positioned, the stitching results will be as shown below. Correct each result as described below. R a b ● If the needle catches too much of the hem fold The needle is positioned too far to the left. Press the “+” side of the stitch width key to adjust the needle position so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Buttonhole Stitching Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Twin Needle Presser Foot Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Stitch Name Pattern Buttonholes can be sewn. Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model.
Buttonholes with a maximum length of 30 mm (1-3/16 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button) can be sewn. Buttonholes are sewn as shown below. a a a 3 a Reinforcement stitching CAUTION ● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if a button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position a and length of the buttonhole. 2 c Turn on the machine. d With the pattern selection dial, select a stitch. e • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser Attach buttonhole foot “A”. 1 foot” (page 33). Pass the upper thread down through the hole f in the presser foot, and then pull it under the presser foot, as shown.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as h possible. a Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at l the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut. a a Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever should be positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. a Pin Use the enclosed seam ripper to cut towards m the pin and open the buttonhole. a 3 b a Buttonhole lever b Bracket a Gently hold the end of the upper thread in i your left hand, and then start sewing.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics ■ Changing the stitch length Press the “+” or “–” side of the stitch length key to adjust the stitch length. – + When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread. Hook the gimp thread onto the part of a buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it. • Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model.
Button sewing g Place the button into button fitting foot “M”. Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached. Measure the distance between the holes in the a button to be attached. a a Button X The button is held in place. b drop feed lever, located at the rear of the Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine).
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Start sewing. i Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so that the speed will be slow). ■ Attaching a shank to a button To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with space between it and the fabric, and then wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button securely. Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”, a and then pull the shank lever toward you.
Zipper Insertion Straight stitch Manual Walking Foot Application Attaching zippers, basic stitching, and J 02 02 02 02 sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. Center Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Twin Needle Presser Foot Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Stitch Name Pattern A zipper can be sewn in place. Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Align the seam with the center of the zipper, e and then baste the zipper in place. h Topstitch around the zipper. a c b b a d c a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stitching c Zipper f With the pattern selection dial, select stitch . a b c d Attach the presser foot holder to the right side g of the pin of zipper foot “I”.
a Turn on the machine. Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of f the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), b stitches up to the zipper opening. Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight and then baste or pin the zipper in place. • With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening. • For details on basic stitching, refer to “Basic Stitching” (page 55). b a Baste the two pieces up to the edge of the c fabric.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the i extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base of the zipper. Attach the presser foot holder to the other side l of the pin of zipper foot “I”. If the presser foot holder was attached to the right side of the pin in step h, change it to the left side of the pin.
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 3-point zigzag stitch Application Sewing stretch fabrics J 04 04 04 04 and decorative stitching Overcasting on medium weight or J 06 06 06 06 stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc. Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Twin Needle Presser Foot Stretch stitch Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Pattern No.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— c With the pattern selection dial, select stitch . Attach zigzag foot “J”. d • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33). Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while e stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric. While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching Auto Manual 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) Yes *1 (J) Yes J 18 18 Appliqué quilting, free-motion quilting, satin stitching 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) No Yes Reinforcement - - Reverse 3.5 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.6–4.0 Yes No Reinforcement (1/8) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) J 19 19 - - Attaching appliqués and binding 1.5 0.5–3.5 1.8 1.0–4.
Application Manual Walking Foot Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Twin Needle Presser Foot Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Stitch Name Pattern UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Auto Manual Auto 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 1.0–4.
Turn the handwheel toward you, and then g begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué, making sure that the needle drops just outside of the appliqué. Piecing Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called “piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from the right side of the presser foot. Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the a fabric that you wish to piece together. b Turn on the machine.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ For a seam allowance on the left side (available only on models with 60 or 70 stitches) Align the left side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch ■ Using the optional quilting guide Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced. . 1 Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the a hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser a 6.
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right d hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder Free-motion quilting screw using the enclosed screwdriver in your left hand. With free-motion quilting, lower the feed dogs (using the feed dog position switch) so that the fabric is not fed. The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and h then move the fabric to follow the pattern. Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning and end of stitching. a a Pattern • Reverse stitches cannot be sewn when the feed dogs are lowered. After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog i position switch to its original position and turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs. • The feed dogs are normally left raised.
Reinforcement Stitching Bar tack stitch Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Twin Needle Presser Foot Triple stretch stitch Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Stitch Name Pattern Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners. Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— c Bar tack stitching With the pattern selection dial, select stitch Bar tacks are one type of reinforcement stitching used to strengthen points subject to strain, such as pocket corners and openings. As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at pocket corners is described below. . Attach buttonhole foot “A”. d • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as g possible. a a Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever should be positioned behind the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot. a 3 b a Buttonhole lever b Bracket Gently hold the end of the upper thread in h your left hand, and then start sewing. X Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops. Raise the presser foot lever, cut the threads, i and then remove the fabric.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Decorative stitching Fagoting stitch Joining stitch Application Manual Walking Foot Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Twin Needle Presser Foot Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Stitch Name Pattern Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine. Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model.
Hemstitching N 36 36 32 - Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Twin Needle Presser Foot 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Pattern Stitch Name Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Pattern No. Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Decorative hemming on thin, medium 5.0 1.5-7.0 2.0 1.5-4.0 weight and plain No No Reinforcement (3/16) (1/16-1/4) (1/16) (1/64-3/16) weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Scallop stitching The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs. a Turn on the machine. b Select stitch c Attach monogramming foot “N”. . Smocking The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.
h Pull out the threads for the straight stitches. Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks f down to one side. Shell tuck stitching The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics. a Fold the fabric along the bias. Joining Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy quilt. a Turn on the machine.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Drawnwork (Example 1) Heirloom stitching The fabric is turned and sewn twice. When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics. CAUTION ● The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine may be damaged.
Sew along the other edge of the frayed section f so that it looks like the previous stitching. N ■ Drawnwork (Example 2) Pull out several threads from two sections of a the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of about 4 mm (3/16 inch). 3 1 a 4 mm (3/16 inch) b Attach monogramming foot “N”. • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33). c Select stitch . d Sew along the center of the unfrayed section. • For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 42).
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Using the side cutter (optional) Overcasting stitch Presser Foot Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Stitch Name Pattern By using the optional side cutter, overcasting stitching can be sewn while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Pattern numbers vary depending on the machine model.
Position the side cutter so that the side cutter f pin is aligned with the notch in the presser foot holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot lever. j Position the fabric. Position the fabric so that the right side of the cut is on top of the guide plate and the left side of the cut is underneath the presser foot. b a a Notch in presser foot holder b Pin X The side cutter is attached. Raise the presser foot lever to check that the g side cutter is securely attached.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— 88
4 APPENDIX Stitch Settings Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table. CAUTION ● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. Utility stitches Straight stitch Left Center Triple stretch stitch Stretch stitch Application Basic stitching, sewJ 01 01 01 01 ing gathers or pintucks, etc.
Auto Overcasting stitch Auto Manual Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching 3.5 2.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.0 No No Reinforcement (1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) Overcasting on thick 5.0 2.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 No No Reinforcement fabrics (3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) Preventing fraying in 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 G 09 09 09 09 thick fabrics and fabNo No Reinforcement (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) rics that fray easily 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.5–4.
Quilting stitch (for stippling) Satin scallop stitch J 21 21 17 17 Auto Auto Manual Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Quilting background 7.0 1.0–-7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 No No Reinforcement stitching (stippling) (1/4) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) N 22 22 18 18 Scallop stitching 5.0 2.5-7.0 0.5 0.1-1.0 Yes No Reinforcement (3/16) (3/32-1/4) (1/32) (1/64-1/16) (J) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.2 0.2–4.0 Yes No Reinforcement (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sewing overcast- 5.0 2.
Hemstitching Auto - Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot Application Lace sewing, decoraN 32 32 28 27 tive hemming, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemN 33 33 29 28 ming, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on thin, medium N 34 34 30 29 weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative hemming on thin, medium N 35 35 31 - weight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc.
Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot Application Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching - For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.2–4.0 No No Reinforcement (3/32) (1/64–3/16) N 46 46 39 - For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.0 0.2–4.0 No No Reinforcement (1/16) (1/64–3/16) N 47 47 40 - For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.2–4.0 No No Reinforcement (3/32) (1/64–3/16) N 48 - For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.2–4.
Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Walking Foot Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Twin Needle Presser Foot Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Pattern No. 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Stitch Name Pattern APPENDIX —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ————— ——— ——————— ———————— ————— ——— ——— — ——— ——— — —— — —— ——— —— ——— ——— —— —— —— — —— ——— —— —— — —— — —— — — —— — ——— — Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching N 58 53 44 - For decoration, etc. 7.0 2.5–7.0 0.4 0.1–1.
Maintenance Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below. Restrictions on oiling In order to prevent damaging this machine, it must not be oiled by the user. This machine was manufactured with the necessary amount of oil applied to ensure correct operation, making periodic oiling unnecessary. If problems occur, such as difficulty turning the handwheel or an unusual noise, immediately stop using the machine, and contact you authorized dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
APPENDIX —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ————— ——— ——————— ———————— ————— ——— ——— — ——— ——— — —— — —— ——— —— ——— ——— —— —— —— — —— ——— —— —— — —— — —— — — —— — ——— — Insert the bobbin case so that the ▲ mark on ● mark on machine as shown below. h the bobbin case aligns with the Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into i the needle plate, and then slide the cover back into position.
Troubleshooting If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service. You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at “ http://solutions.brother.com ” . If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
APPENDIX — ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— —— ——— —— ——— —— — —— d finger, pass the thread through the slit in the While holding the bobbin in place with your needle plate. • Hold down the bobbin with your right hand, and then pull the end of the thread around the tab with your left hand. Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric ■ Symptom • The thread becomes tangled on the lower side of the fabric.
d lever. Raise the presser foot using the presser foot g from the back to the front. Pass the thread under the thread guide cover Hold the thread with your right hand so that there is no slack in the thread that is pulled out, and then pass the thread under the thread guide cover with your left hand. a Presser foot lever • If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing machine cannot be threaded correctly. e twice to raise the needle.
APPENDIX —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ————— ——— ——————— ———————— ————— ——— ——— — ——— ——— — —— — —— ——— —— ——— ——— —— —— —— — —— ——— —— —— — —— — —— — — —— — ——— — Incorrect thread tension ■ Symptoms • Symptom 1: The lower thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric. • Symptom 2: The upper thread appears as a straight line on the upper side of the fabric. • Symptom 3: The upper thread is visible from the lower side of the fabric.
g the bobbin. Cut out the tangled threads, and then remove Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed If the fabric is caught in the sewing machine and cannot be removed, the thread may have become tangled under the needle plate. Follow the procedure described below to remove the fabric from the machine. If the operation could not be completed according to the procedure, instead of attempting to complete it forcefully, contact your nearest authorized service center.
APPENDIX — ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— —— ——— —— ——— —— — —— j loosen the two screws on the needle plate. Use the enclosed disc-shaped screwdriver to Turn the handwheel to check that the feed dogs move smoothly and do not contact the edges of the slots in the needle plate. Note ● Be careful not to drop the removed screws in the machine.
CAUTION ● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched, otherwise the upper thread may become tangled, the needle may break or sewing performance may suffer. For a new bobbin case (part code: XE7560-001), contact your nearest authorized service center. ● Make sure that you fit the bobbin case properly, otherwise the needle may break. q steps Attach the needle plate cover according to i in “Cleaning the race” (page 96). r install it.
APPENDIX ———————————— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— ——————— — Correctly thread the machine. g • For details on threading the machine, refer to “Threading the upper thread” (page 20). Note ● The thread may have become tangled as a result of incorrect upper threading. Make sure that the machine is correctly threaded.
c then remove the bobbin from the shaft. Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left, and d wind off the thread clockwise near the bobbin Hold the thread end with your left hand, and with your right hand as shown below. 4 e Wind the bobbin again. Note ● Make sure that the thread passes under the pretension disk of the bobbin-winding thread guide correctly (page 16).
APPENDIX —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ————— ——— ——————— ———————— ————— ——— ——— — ——— ——— — —— — —— ——— —— ——— ——— —— —— —— — —— ——— —— —— — —— — —— — — —— — ——— — List of symptoms Symptom The sewing machine does not operate. Probable Cause Remedy The plug of the power cord is not inserted into an electrical outlet. Insert the plug of the power cord into page 14 a household electrical outlet. The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine. page 14 The bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right.
Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference The upper thread was incorrectly threaded (for example, the spool is incorrectly installed or the thread has Correct the upper threading. come out of the needle bar thread guide). page 20 There are knots or tangles in the thread. – Remove any knots or tangles. The selected needle is not Select a needle that is appropriate for page 30 appropriate for the thread being used. the type of stitch being used. The upper thread tension is too tight.
APPENDIX —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ————— ——— ——————— ———————— ————— ——— ——— — ——— ——— — —— — —— ——— —— ——— ——— —— —— —— — —— ——— —— —— — —— — —— — — —— — ——— — Symptom The thread tension is incorrect. The fabric is puckered. Stitches are skipped. A high-pitched sound is produced while sewing. A rattling noise is produced. 108 Probable Cause Remedy Reference The upper thread is incorrectly installed. Correct the upper threading. page 20 The bobbin thread is incorrectly installed.
Symptom The thread does not pass through the eye of the needle. The stitch is not sewn correctly. The fabric does not feed. Probable Cause Remedy Reference The needle was not raised. Press (needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle. page 21 The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 31 The appropriate presser foot for the type of stitch that you wish to sew is not used.
APPENDIX —— — ——— — —— ———— ——— ——— ————— ——— ——————— ———————— ————— ——— ——— — ——— ——— — —— — —— ——— —— ——— ——— —— —— —— — —— ——— —— —— — —— — —— — — —— — ——— — Error Messages If the sewing machine is incorrectly operated or if the sewing machine malfunctions, an error message appears in the LCD. The message can be cleared by pressing any key in the operation panel, turning any dial, or performing the operation correctly.
Operation Beep Each time a key is pressed or an incorrect operation is performed, a beep is sounded. ■ For a correct operation One beep is sounded. ■ If an incorrect operation is performed Two or four beeps are sounded. ■ If the machine locks up, for example, because the thread is tangled The sewing machine continues to beep for three seconds, and then the machine automatically stops. Be sure to check for the cause of the error, and correct it before continuing to sew.
Index Numerics M 1/4 inch quilting foot......................................................12 1/4 inch quilting foot with guide ....................................12 main power switch......................................................... 14 maintenance .................................................................. 95 monogramming foot....................................................... 11 A accessory bag.................................................................
spool cap .......................................................................11 spool net ........................................................................11 spool pin ........................................................................20 stitch guide foot..............................................................12 stitch length....................................................................42 stitch settings..................................................................
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