Installation Guide

INSTALLATION TIP 1
Note that slightly bowed (curved) boards can be installed and are not considered
defective. There are a few tips that can help make installing these boards easier:
1. Place the bowed board at a 45 degree angle into the groove area of the
assembled boards on the oor as you would normally. Apply forward and
downward pressure to engage the boards as usual.
2. As you meet resistance, use you left hand placed near to the center of the
bowed board to apply downward pressure in the bowed area.
3. With your right hand, use a tapping block and tap against the long edge of
the bowed board as you apply downward pressure. The tapping action on
the bowed board helps it to engage and lower into the proper at position.
Do not tap too hard as this can damage the groove edge of the board.
NOTE: DO NOT INSTALL FLOORING USING A RUBBER MALLET. STRIKING
THE FLOORING SURFACE WITH A RUBBER MALLET MAY PERMANENTLY
MAR THE FINISH CAUSING DAMAGE THAT CANNOT BE REPAIRED.
4. If the bowed board cannot be installed using this method, this board often
can be cut and used as a starter or ending board elsewhere in the installation.
INSTALLATION TIP 2
To assist with the stability of the first few rows, we recommend that you install
the first row, then 2 to 3 boards in the second row, then 1 to 2 boards in the third
row. Go back to the second row and install another 2 boards, then 1 board in the
third row. Complete this “stepping” arrangement until the three rows are complete.
Always stagger the end joints of adjacent rows a minimum of 12”. Try to avoid a
“stair-step” pattern when looking across several rows, and try to avoid “H” patterns
in the installation.
1
9
8
7
6
54
32
10
Maintain a 12”
Stagger
INSTALLATION TIP 3
You cannot force the boards to go together. If they are not laying at when
engaged they are not fully seated. If the boards are not laying at, disengage the
boards and start the step over (to disengage a board, lift long side of the board to
INSTALLATION TIPS:
a 45 degree angle and remove). Insure the edges of both boards meet evenly by
applying equal pressure while rotating the board down. Using a tapping block to
help the boards to go together as they are being engaged in this manner often is the
answer to fully seating the boards together.
INSTALLATION TIP 4
When working under door jambs or the toe kicks of
cabinets, there will not be enough clearance to achieve the
45 degree angle necessary to engage the board sides. It will
be necessary to trim away the raised portion on the groove
side using a wood chisel and then glue the tongue and groove
together using a high quality carpenter’s glue. A pull bar may be
used to engage these boards.
INSTALLATION TIP 5
In narrow areas (i.e. hallways) where planks will be installed width wise, the planks
must be staggered to incorporate at least one end joint in every other row. Installing
same length boards side by side without this stagger could cause the ooring to bow
upward or weaken the joints.
INCORRECT CORRECT
INSTALLATION TIP 6
Transition pieces (moldings), and the oor itself, are made from real wood and
will exhibit all the natural variations of the particular species. Every transition piece
will not match every board of ooring. Therefore, the best results will be achieved
by identifying boards that are complimentary to the transition prior to installation,
setting the boards aside to be installed next to the transition.
FLOOR CARE AND PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
With today’s finishes, maintenance of your wood oor could not be easier. Normal
maintenance consists of regular sweeping or vacuuming to collect dirt and grit that
can dull your finish, along with periodic use of an approved no-wax hardwood oor
cleaner. For Handscraped/Distressed oors, the uneven surface may trap dirt and
dust so we recommend vacuuming more often. Always vacuum thoroughly prior to
the use of approved oor cleaner. Be certain the wheels of the vacuum are clean and
do not damage the finish. Scrubbing machinery, power scrubbers and steam cleaners
are not recommended to clean the oor.
PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
Aside from those mentioned above, other steps can also be taken to minimize wear
and tear and keep your oor looking new for years to come.
DO NOT USE liquid or paste wax, oil soaps, or any other cleaners that contain
silicon, lemon oil, tung oil, acrylics or ammonia. Furthermore, avoid ‘home recipes’
found on the internet or other sources. These products and techniques can cause
your oors to become slippery, or cloud and dull the finish. Use of these and similar
products can harm the performance of your oor and may also affect its re-coat
ability.
DO NOT USE A VACUUM WITH A BEATER BAR HEAD
Use throw rugs inside and outside of entryways to prevent dirt and grit from
being tracked in and scratching your finish. Rugs, mats or backings should not be
abrasive to prevent scratching to the wood oor. Material should be breathable to
avoid trapping moisture underneath.
Wood and water don’t mix! Never damp mop your oor. Clean up spills promptly
with a soft cloth and recommended cleaning products.
Place felt-type protectors on the bottom of all furniture and fixture legs to assist
in preventing denting and scratching.
High heels and sports cleats will likely dent, gouge or scratch hardwood oors,
which is not covered by our warranty.
Keep pet’s nails trimmed and clean of dirt and debris.
Avoid sliding or rolling heavy furniture or appliances across the oor. Whenever
possible, lift the item to be moved. If it must be rolled, protect the oor with plywood
or other hard sheeting to prevent dents.
Use a humidifier/dehumidifier to maintain a consistent year round climate,
keeping wood shrinkage and movement to a minimum.
The exposure of sun, UV rays and artificial lighting accelerate the oxidation and
aging of wood. This can cause the wood and/or stain to change color and/or fade
over time. If possible, we recommend that you rearrange fixtures, rugs and furniture
periodically to ensure the ooring ages evenly. Our warranties do not cover damage
from the sun, UV rays or artificial light. Note: American Cherry and Walnut species
are especially susceptible to the effect of light and may darken or lighten due to
UV or artificial light exposure. These species change color more rapidly than other
Domestic Species.
Furniture casters should have wheels constructed with soft, non-marring/marking
material such as soft rubber, or covered with felt. Hard wheeled casters such as
plastic, vinyl or hard rubber can mark or dent hardwood oors. Caster wheel width
and diameter should comply with load guidelines.