Installation Guide

perimeter of the room to allow for normal expansion and contraction, as well as
around any other vertical objects in the room (cabinets, columns, etc.). In areas larger
than 24 ft. length in either direction, an expansion break in the ooring (covered
by T-Molding), or additional expansion space is required. Allow an additional 1/4”
space for every 12 ft. in length above 24 ft. Example: For a 36’x36’ size room, allow
5/8” expansion (normal 3/8” plus 1/4” expansion for the 12ft. over 24ft.) in both
directions.
• Pre-plan the number of rows (based off of board face width). Often the last row
will need to be ripped lengthwise to fit. If the measurement for the last row is less
than 2” (allowing for required expansion space), it would best to rip the boards in
the first and last rows to balance the installation. If the ripped boards have to be
narrower than 2”, use a high quality carpenter’s glue to secure the narrower boards
to the wider adjoining planks.
• Remove any base, shoe, or threshold moldings prior to beginning installation.
PRE-INSTALLATION PLANNING CONTINUED
These can be replaced at the end of the install.
• Under cut door jambs to allow for expansion space and to avoid difficult scribe
cuts. This can be done by using a small piece of the ooring as a guide/rest for your
jamb saw. Expansion breaks (covered by T-Molding) are recommended in doorway
ooring.
• The use of putty to fill small gaps or correct minor
defects should be considered normal in any wood
ooring installation. When using putty on low sheen
(gloss) wood oors, use a plastic putty knife and remove
excess immediately with a soft cloth to prevent gloss-up
of the finish.
CHECKING SUBFLOOR FLATNESS
• Use a straight edge to determine suboor atness (throughout oor). The
suboor should be at to within 3/16” in an 8’ area.
• High areas need to be sanded and low areas filled. NEVER SAND ANY EXISTING
FLOOR OR ADHESIVE SUSPECTED TO CONTAIN ASBESTOS OR CRYSTALLINE
SILICA (such as resilient vinyl or linoleum, or the adhesives used to bond them).
• High or low areas in the suboor could cause the oated oor to ex causing
squeaking, popping, or other noises. Over time this exing could also cause the
locking system to weaken resulting in gaps or loose boards in the oor.
CHECKING SUBFLOOR MOISTURE
WOOD SUBFLOORS:
• The moisture content of the suboor must be checked using a reputable
manufacturer’s moisture meter. Wood suboors should not exceed a 14% moisture
content, and the moisture variance between the wooden suboor and the new
ooring to be installed should not exceed 4%.
CONCRETE SUBFLOORS:
• When ooring is installed directly to a concrete suboor, one of the following
moisture tests is recommended:
• Calcium Chloride Test (maximum 3.0 pounds)
• Tramex Moisture Meter (maximum reading of 4.5)
• Delmhorst BD2100 Moisture Meter (reading of green/dry)
• RH (Relative Humidity) should not exceed 75% in slab
• Keep documentation of all moisture readings. If results indicate a moisture
problem exists, DO NOT INSTALL THE FLOORING! Most moisture issues can
be corrected easily (sealing, etc.). When corrected, retest the suboor to assure
moisture guidelines have been met.
SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
TOOLS NEEDED
• Roll out foam underlayment (follow instructions inside packaging). On a concrete
suboor, if you are using an underlayment that does not have a vapor barrier
attached, loose lay 6 mil poly sheeting with the seams overlapped 8”, taped with
clear packaging tape and lapped up the wall but not touching the sheetrock. Then
roll out underlayment, butting edges. For installations over a plywood suboor it is
not necessary to use poly sheeting, and foam underlayment may or may not have a
vapor barrier attached.
• Never open the bundles until ready to start the installation process.
• When the decision is made on the direction the boards will run, start at one side
wall with the first row of boards allowing an expansion space along side and end
walls with the use of wood wedges (equivalent spacers.) Extra expansion space is
required in large areas (i.e. one room; two rooms with adjoining archways or a room
with an extended hallway) measuring more than 24 linear feet in either direction
(width or length). Either install a T-molding across the width of the room, archway
or use an additional 1/4” expansion for each additional 12 linear feet (i.e. for a 3/8”
product in a room that measures 36’ x 36’ you would leave 5/8” expansion around
all vertical surfaces which can be covered by your choice of molding).
SIDE AND END GLUING
• The engineered boards must be side and end glued using wood glue. Apply glue
in the groove of each plank as you install . Begin at the end and fill the entire length
of the board. Fully glue the end joint. It is very important to fill the groove to its
full thickness. This will ensure proper transfer to the tongue of the adjoining planks.
Failure to follow proper glue schedule will void all warranties. If any excess glue
squeezes up to the finished surface, wipe off using a paper towel or cloth.
INSTALLING THE LAST ROW
• The boards in the last row will need to be cut to the necessary width. Remember
to allow the appropriate expansion space between the last row and any vertical
surface it adjoins. Mark the board to the correct width and contours of the wall.
• After the oor is completely installed, remove spacers, install molding and
thoroughly clean the oor with an approved Wood Floor Cleaner.
• Never cover a newly installed oor with plastic. Always use a breathable material
such as craft paper or cardboard.
INSTALLING FLOOR
FLOATING INSTALLATION
• Foam Underlayment
• 6-mil Polyethylene film (if going over concrete)
• Roberts #1406 T&G Adhesive
• Chalk Line
• 3/8” Wood or Plastic Spacers
• T-square
• Tapping Block
• Pencil
• Measuring Tape
• Wood Chisel
• Safety Glasses
• Circular or Rip Saw
• Jamb Saw
• Dust Mask
• Knee Pads
• Pull Bar
TOOLS NEEDED
NAIL/STAPLE INSTALLATION
• 15 lb. Asphalt felt or Roberts Silicone Vapor Shield (SVS)
• Chalk Line
• 3/8” Wood or Plastic Spacers
• Square
• Tapping Block
• Pencil
• Tape measure
• Wood Chisel
• Safety glasses
• Circular or rip saw
• Jamb Saw
• Dust mask
• Knee pads
• Pull bar
FOR 3/8”: PNEUMATIC OR MANUAL NAILER/STAPLER FOR USE WITH
3/8” FLOORS
• 80-85 lb of air pressure
• 1” minimum fastener length
• 20 Gauge
FOR 1/2”: PNEUMATIC OR MANUAL NAILER/STAPLER FOR USE WITH
1/2” FLOORS
• 80-85 lb of air pressure
• 1-1/4” minimum fastener length
• 18 Gauge