Instructions / Assembly

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Home Master® Reverse Osmosis System—Owners Manual
Troubleshooting
IMPORTANT NOTE: Before performing service on the Home Master® RO at any time, and
for any reason: first close all under-sink water valves, except for the RO faucet, which you
should open to relieve system pressure and drain away excess water from the lines. Push-
pull and quick connect fittings are nearly impossible to remove when under pressure.
Leaks from metal fittings Unscrew fittings and re-tape male fitting. Tape should be
wound 5-7 times around male thread. Tape should not cover opening. Use only Teflon tape.
Re-tighten fitting securely. Over tightening can crush the tubing insert and cause a water
blockage.
Leaks from plastic fittings Plastic fittings should be firmly finger tightened. Under
tightening can result in leaks, over tightening can crush the tubing and result in a water
blockage. For plastic fittings only; make sure the plastic tubing has an insert in the tube
end, and a feral (oring which compresses the tubing around the insert) in the plastic female
fitting. Drain tubing does not need an insert.
Leaks from push-pull or quick connect fittings Disconnect fitting by depressing the
collet ring on the fitting with one hand and pulling out the tubing with the other hand while
the collet ring is still depressed. Tubing cannot be pulled out without depressing the collet
ring, and relieving system pressure. Make sure the tubing is cut is straight, the edge is
completely smooth, and the tube is rounded. Scratched, gouged, damaged, or oblong
tubing end will leak. Re-insert the tubing into the push-pull fitting. Push tubing all the way
in, then pull back gently, to check fit. Most push-pull fittings take about a 1/3” of tubing
inserted into them.
Fine Air Bubbles/Grey Tinted Water: tiny air bubbles often accompany a new system
installation and filter changes. Air becomes trapped inside the tiny carbon pores and is
released over time, not gallons. After pouring a glass of water, allow a few seconds for the
water to clear. Enjoy!
Noises: Hissing or flowing sounds from Home Master® RO are normal during the water
purification process. Sounds should last for approximately 1 hour per gallon of water used.
Sounds should stop once the reserve tank is full. Permeate pump equipped systems will
“click” and “whoosh.” IF the clicking from the permeate pump is troublesome, then place
some insulating material between the mounting clip and the wall, such as a rubber jar mat.
A GROANING sound upon start-up indicates air bubbles in the automatic shut off valve.
This will go away with time or your can pull the Home Master® RO off of its mounting clips
and rotate it 90° left and hold it there for 10 minutes, then rotate it 180° right and hold it
there for 10 minutes while the system is operating in order to pass the air bubbles. Repeat
as needed.
Gurgling noises from the drain can be present during normal operation. Sounds should last
for approximately 1 hour per gallon of water used. If the noise is troublesome there are a
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Home Master® Reverse Osmosis System—Owners Manual
few things you can do. A) Disconnect the red drain line from the drain saddle, adjust the red
tube protruding from the nut (add a little more or reduce it), while ensuring there is at least
some visible red tube protruding, and reconnect. B) Empty your P trap to ensure the system
waste water isn't dropping into standing water. C) Use a common rubber stopper to cover your
sink’s drain opening to muffle the sound.
Weak pressure at RO faucet & Reserve tank filling slowly
NOTE: Seasonal changes in temperature can cause pressure imbalances within the
system resulting in slow water production. Oftentimes the imbalance will correct itself
on its own within a few days. You may also restore the internal system pressure
balance by draining the tank, unplugging the tubing from the automatic shut off valve
(ASV—shown to the right), then allow the system to stand open overnight. Then
reconnect, open the feed valve, and allow the tank to refill.
Weak pressure is either a storage problem or a production problem. To determine which
close the tank valve and open the RO faucet. After a brief burst, you should see a steady thin
trickle of water, or a trickle that pulses on and off -if you have the permeate pump. If this is
what you see then it’s a storage tank problem. If you see zero water, or only a few broken
drops then it’s a production problem.
Storage tank problems:
1. Make sure storage tank is full, and has been flushed at least twice.
2. Make sure the angle-stop is wide open.
3. Check all tubing for kinks or sharp bends - this can impede the flow of water.
4. Check reserve tank air pressure. Tank MUST be empty of water, tank valve OPEN, system
feed valve CLOSED and RO faucet OPEN. Air valve is located on the side of the tank under a
cap. Use a bicycle tire pressure gauge. Tank should have 7.5 psi when empty of water. If
the pressure is less, then add air using a bicycle pump. Do not overfill. If the tank does not
hold the air then the tank is bad and should be replaced
Production problems
1. Check flow to the membrane housing. Close water at the feed water adapter
and tank, and briefly open the RO faucet at the sink to relieve any system pressure. Then
pull the black tube out of the top of the blue membrane housing at the quick connect fitting.
(There is only one fitting on the top of the membrane housing, the bottom has two - one
white, one grey). Point the tube you have just disconnected into a pitcher and turn on the
EZ adapter valve. The water flow from the tube should be fairly strong.
2. If the flow to the membrane housing is strong, then check the water flow exiting both the
white elbow and the grey elbow at the bottom of the membrane housing. The water flow
from the white elbow should be a thin, but steady trickle, and the flow from the grey elbow
should be greater than the white elbow . If the flow from the grey elbow is less than the
white than it should be replaced. If there is no flow from either then change the membrane
and the grey elbow. Please note that the minimum water pressure for the system to
operate is 40psi. Also remember to inspect your drain line where the red tube connects to
the drain saddle, and you can also unscrew the grey elbow at the bottom of the membrane
housing. If gunk is obstructing the drain line, then the system cannot produce good water.
3. If the flow to the membrane housing is weak, then start working your way backward and