Installation Instructions

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(6) Construction near lakes, rivers, oceans and other large bodies of water must be thoroughly dried-in and with the HVAC system
operating for several weeks or longer than normal to make sure the jobsite is dry prior to delivery of wood flooring. Depending on the
proximity of the water, certain wood flooring may not be suitable – please consult your sales representative.
(7) The subfloor moisture content must be checked to make sure it is within normal ranges for the region and not above 12%. If the
subfloor moisture content percentage is higher than the flooring moisture content by 4% or more, then the flooring is at risk for
moisture related damage such as cupping, damage to finish such as cracks in the board face, and buckling.
Once these steps have been completed, your flooring is ready to be installed. Beasley wood flooring should always be installed either
perpendicular or at a 45 degree angle to the floor joists. Failure to do so will result in high ridges in the floor at every joist. Do not use
a wall as your starting line because walls are rarely perfectly straight and the flooring therefore will not be straight. Place a straight
line on the floor using a carpenter’s chalk line. You may need to face nail and/or glue the boards along the starting line to achieve a
straight starting row. In very wide rooms, consider placing the starting row in the center of the room. Use a spline to reverse direction
so that you can proceed to walls at either end of the room. This will minimize movement and noise issues that may occur should the
flooring absorb moisture and swell after occupancy. It is absolutely necessary to leave a ¾” expansion space between the hardwood
flooring and the perimeter walls of every room. Failure to leave an expansion space can damage walls and other surrounding fixtures
such as fireplace hearths and adjacent flooring materials should the wood flooring absorb moisture and swell.
Beasley wood flooring is made to be mechanically fastened to a wood subfloor using flooring cleats or staples. The subfloor should be
at least 5/8” thick (3/4” is preferred) exterior-use rated plywood or its equivalent. Do not install Beasley wood flooring over particle
board as this subfloor material will not hold a flooring fastener. On flooring that is wider than 3 ¼”, we recommend that wood
flooring glue be used in conjunction with mechanical fasteners to make sure that the flooring is properly attached to the subfloor. The
fasteners used should be either 2” barbed flooring cleats or 2” 15 gauge flooring staples with ½” crowns. 1 ½” flooring fasteners may
be used when installing Beasley flooring on a subfloor over a concrete slab. If you install over a concrete slab, there must be a vapor
barrier between the concrete and subfloor. On 2 ¼” and 3 ¼” wide flooring, fasteners should be placed along strips at no more than
10” to 12” apart (8” to 10” spacing is preferred). On 4” or wider flooring, fasteners should be spaced along planks approximately 8”
apart. There should be a minimum of two flooring fasteners per board on the shortest boards, and fasteners should be spaced 1” to 3”
from the ends of every flooring strip or plank. Flooring nails or staples are made to be driven at an angle through the top of the tongue
for blind-nailing. However, face-nailing is often required for starting rows or along walls where there is not enough room for a
flooring nail-gun. For other questions on installation, please call Beasley Flooring Products sales or technical departments at
[phone] or [phone].