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S S 1 I I I I J For you and your new Viking We have prepared this bookle t, to let you know how to operate this sewing ma chine and how to make best use of all its sewing pos sibilities. We hope you will have ma ny pleasant hours with your new sewing machine. HUSQVARNA AB, SWED EN US Factory Subsidiary: Viking Sewing Machine Co., Inc. 2300 Louisiana Ave. No rth, Minneapolis, Minn. 554 27. In countries other than the U. S. A. and the U. K.
I .4’ ii &1L] s. — Table of contents . . . 48 45 53_57 Accessory box, contents .O— S I Appliqués 27 Basting (tacking) 22 Blind hem 32 Blin d hem , elast ic 33 Blindstitching 31—3 3 Bobbin case 12—13 Bobbin winding 1—12 Bound edge s 26 Bringing up lower threa d 14 Buttons, sewing on 45 Buttonhole knife 43 Buttonholes 38—4 2 Careofthemachine 48 Changing the light bulb 48 Changing the need le 9 Changing the presser foot ankle 19 Chan ging the snap -on press er foot.
2 3 4 5 6 7 1. Handle 2. Top thread guide 3. Thread tension discs 4. Thread take-up lever 5. Thread tension scale 6. Thread tension dial 7. Thread guide with thread take-up spring 8. Needle bar 9. Front thread guide 10. Presser foot 4 11. Feed dog 12. Bobbin case 13. Shuttle (hook) 14. Bobbin case cover 15. Base plate 16. Presser foot lifter 17. Presser bar 18. Needle clamp screw 19. Needle 20. Throat plate (needle plate) 21. Drop feed button _ _: 27 28 H: 22. Free arm 23. Stitch length scale 24.
4 31 33 34 - 15 1. Handle 2. Top thread guide 3. Thread tension discs 8. Needle bar 9. Front thread guide 10. Presser foot 11. Feed dog 15. Base plate 16. Presser foot lifter 17. Presser bar 18. Needle clamp screw 20. Throat plate (needle plate) 27. Spool pins 30. Handwheel 31. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38.
B iI Unpacking the machine Place the machine on the table with the little mark on top of the cover facing you. Pull the locking clips from the handle, lift off the cover and put it aside. Remove the foot control A. Lift the accessory box B somewhat and slide it to the left, away from the machine. Putting the machine away Remove the plugs from the wall socket and the ma chine socket. Wind the leads around your hand, starting at the control and put them inside the foot control.
Connection to wall socket The voltage of the machine is given on plate B, at the back of the machine. Ensure that the wall socket voltage is the same as that of the machine. Then connect the machine to the appropriate wall socket. Lighting The switch, C, for the light is also at the back of the machine. For changing the light bulb see page 48. Free arm Trouser legs and sleeves can be drawn onto the free arm making it easy to sew, mend or patch these parts.
/ V / I g _1nI / 1 — 1 Extension table When you need a larger working surface, attach the extension table. There are two grooves underneath the extension table which should be fitted onto corresponding studs on the free arm. There is also an extra support leg which should be lowered. Presser bar lever By means of the presser bar lever at the rear of the machine, the presser foot can be raised and lowered.
I L1 .41 Needle and thread as synthetic thread Mercerized cotton thread as well A special embroidery is used for all sorts of fabrics. used for decorative or darning thread could be it is of course also stitching. As the name implies, used for embroidery and darning. 705H and is adapted The needle system has number ey, etc. Use only to modern materials, such as jers machine is fitted needles marked in this way. The find a number of with needle No. 80. You will also the accessory box.
N 10 32 54J II 4 Spool pins Pull out one of the spool pins at the back of the machine. Threading the upper thread Raise the presser foot. Turn the handwheel toward you until the needle is at its highest position. Place the spool of thread on the pin, 1. Slide the thread into the thread guide, 2, on the rear of the “upper” arm. Then draw the thread to the front between the tension discs, 3, and down around the thread guide, 4.
Bobbin winding Take an empty bobbin from the accessory box. In order to get the best possible result when bobbin winding, use only Husqvarna-Viking transparent bobbins, which have three grooves in the hole. Other types of bobbins cannot be used, due to the construction of the bobbin winding device. On one side of the bobbin there is a marking. Turn the bobbin with the marking outwards and slide the bobbin onto the bobbin spindle, B. You can wind the bobbin directly from the black thread guide.
ta.1 mm i-nII [:Dj 1!1i tI 12 Correct and incorrect bobbin winding Fig. I shows a correctly wound bobbin. if you notice that the bobbin is winding unevenly as in fig. 2, loosen screw A with the aid of the screw driver, move the screw slightly to the left until the winding becomes even. Tighten the screw. if the winding looks like fig. 3, check to see if the bobbin is properly pressed in on the spindle. If this is correct, move the screw slightly to the right until the winding becomes even.
.1] ri Threading the lower thread When the bobbin is wound, place it beside its case with the marking upwards. The thread is then run ning as shown in the fig. Place the bobbin in its case without turning it around. Slide the thread into the slot on the edge of the bobbin case. Pull the thread in under the tension spring. Check that the bobbin rotates in the direction of the arrow when the thread is pulled.
I I Bringing up the lower thread Hold the threaded upper thread slack and turn the handwheel towards you until the needle goes down through the needle plate and then up again. When the needle is in its highest position, pull the upper thread and you will get a loop of the lower thread which is easy to catch. You shouldn’t pull the upper thread too hard as this may damage the needle. Pull the threads about 6” (15 cm) towards the rear.
Tension of upper thread The thread tension scale is graduated from 0 to 10. Normal thread tension is obtained by setting the indicator opposite the red dot (A). The thread ten sion can be adjusted to suit different materials and thread thicknesses. There is also a special mark on the thread tension scale for the tension that can be used for making buttonholes (B). This setting is also suitable for darning etc.
\\ \ ---\ WRONG Lzz:jjzz: Correct and incorrect thread tension In order to get a strong seam, the thread tension should be balanced so that the threads interlock in the middle of the layers of fabric. In order to understand more easily the importance of correct thread tension, you can try different thread tensions by sewing on a scrap of fabric. Use the same fabric you intend to work with. Begin by using a too loose tension, i.e. you turn the thread tension dial to 1.
_______ Zig-zag presser foot The presser foot (4lll 383-01) which is fitted on the machine at delivery, is used for straight stitch and zig-zag stitching with a stitch length of more than 2 mm (5/64”). Upper side 383 Under side Zig-zag presser foot 41 11 383-01 Glide plate The glide plate (41 11 866-0 1) fits the zig-zag presser foot (41 11 383-01). Peel off the protective paper and press on the selfadhering side of the glide plate against the underside of the presser foot.
Underside — Upperside Presser foot for thin fabrics 41 14531-01 Presser foot for thin fabrics This presser foot (41 14 531-01) is suitable for sew ing nylon. tricot and similar fabrics that are thin and/or have a glossy surface. The underneath is designed in such a way that it secu res the mate rial better against the needle plate. thus simplifying the sewing of these materials. The presser foot is best suited for straight stitching and wide zig-zag.
* iFi 4] Cflanging the snap-on presser foot The presser feet which accompany the machine are in the form of loose soles which are held in place on the presser foot “ankle” by a spring. If you wish to change the presser foot, turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle is in the highest position. Re move the presser foot by drawing it toward you while pressing slightly downward. There is a spring at the bottom of the ankle bracket.
I I I J I :: .: General hints — Always start a straight seam by turning the handwheel towards you so that the needle enters the seam line, then lower the presser foot. When sewing zig-zag and other stitches, first lower the presser foot, then lower the needle. When sewing on thin and soft fabrics, start the seam about 1/4” from the edge of the fabric to prevent it from being pulled down into the needle hole in the throat plate.
Thread tension Stitch length Stitch selector Straight stitching Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel towards you. Set the stitch selector to the straight stitching sym bol. The stitch length dial is graduated from 0 to 4 and is set to the desired stitch length, normally 2. In the center of the stitch length dial is a button for reverse sewing. By pressing this button in, the ma chine will sew in reverse, and will resume normal forward sewing as soon as it is released.
v. ,., . - ,.....,. -,.—... LIII*I 22 Basting When sewing simpler garments you can save time by inserting pins at right-angles to the seam. Then sew the seam and remove each pin as you come to it. If you are careful, use fine pins, and relatively long stitches, you can sew right across the pins. How ever, this involves a risk of blunting the needle. Machine basting allows you to try on the garment before sewing it together. Pin the seams as described above.
Sewing in zippers The zipper foot (41 12 989-01) can be attached so that it comes either to the right or to the left of the needle. This makes it possible to sew on both sides of the zipper without turning the work. Slide the front part of the attaching clamp onto the presser foot ankle, as shown in the illustration. Zipper under the left-hand edge of the opening Keep the zipper closed. Baste the opening together by machine, using long stitches and loose top thread ten sion.
— - . - IU IL1 ‘ I -. j_ . II II L L I I I : - ,, ,-:- .•, . -:-- - - - Tt1 - \ ‘I hl ‘S 24 • • [ .1 .1 .1. I.. I. .1 I.... 1. Sewing in zippers (cont.) Zipper under the center of the open ing. Baste the opening together by ma chine with long stitches and slack top tension. Leave about 3/4” open at the top of the opening. Press the seam open and baste the zipper under the seam by hand. Change to the zipper presser foot, putting it to the left of the needle.
Thread tension Stitch length Stitch selector Zig-zag stitching Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel towards you. Set the stitch selector to the desired zig-zag symbol. Set the stitch length dial to the desired stitch length. Choose a suitable combination of stitch length and stitch width. The stitch length can be adjusted while you are sewing. Zig-zag stitching is used for different sewing opera tions such as appliqués, gathering, bound edges and inserting lace.
Gathering with zig-zag stitching Gathering by zig-zagging over shirring elastic gives soft, supple gathering for e.g. smocking and elastic in blouses, children’s clothes and nightwear. Hold the elastic firmly both in front and behind the presser foot and stretch the elastic not the fabric! The zig-zag stitch should be wide enough so that the elastic can glide within it and the gathers will be evenly spaced when the work is finished. Stitch length 2.5 is usually sufficient.
The lace will be more firmly attached if it is first placed about 1/2” in on the fabric and sewn on with widely spaced zig-zag (stitch length 1). Fold the fabric back against the reverse side and stitch again from the right side, this time using a little wider zig-zag and closer stitches (stitch length 0.3). Trim the fabric edges on the reverse side close to the seams, or fold a hem and sew with straight stitches.
Thread tension Stitch length Stitch selector Three-step zig-zag Zigzag presser foot4l 11383-01 Utility stitch presserfoot 41 14 512-01 Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel towards you. Set the stitch selector to symbol Turn the stitch length dial to 1 as a recommended basic setting. Three-step zig-zag is used for overcasting in most fabrics, especially stretchable, thin and easily frayed fabrics. It has many advantages over ordinary zig-zag.
Overcasting Trim the edges of the fabric before overcasting. Make sure that the needle sews over the edge of the fabric. Let the edge of the fabric follow the righthand marking of presser foot No. 4114 512-01 as shown in the picture. Sewing terry cloth Terry cloth is rather loosely woven fabric in which seams easily break and where hems are frequently thick and clumsy. When overcasting proceed as follows. Sew the garment together leaving 5/8” to 3/4” seam allowance. Trim the seams so that they do not fray.
Mending Three-step zig-zag is a versatile stitch which can be utilized for mending and darning the majority of materials. The ordinary presser foot may be used. It is naturally better if the thread is of the same colour as the fabric. The adjustment should be adapted to the material. To start with, try stitch length 0.3—1. When mending a tear, bring the edges of the fabric together and sew them together with three-step zig-zag.
Blindstitching, general You will find the blindstitching presser foot (41 15 331-01) in the accessory box. Attach it in the same way as the regular presser foot. As fabrics may differ in thickness, the presser foot can be moved sideways so that guide line B of the presser foot can be adjusted to the thickness of the fabric.
Thread tension 0’’ I I ‘II.” I I I I—I.’ I I 0—I I Stitch length Blindstitching presser foot 4115 33 1-01 Stitch selector Blindstitching First read page 31. Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel towards you. Set the stitch selector to symbol v’.r. Turn the stitch length dial to 2—3, which is a recom mended basic setting. This setting is an average setting, which means that you can either increase or decrease the stitch length to vary the distance between the catches.
Thread tension Stitch length Stitch selector Elastic blindstitch First read page 31. Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel towards you. The stitch selector is set to symbol V”V’V. Turn the stitch length dial to 1—2 as a recommended basic setting. This is an average setting, which means that you can increase or decrease the stitch length to vary the distance between the catches.
Thread tension Stitch length Stitch selector Elastic knit stitch (Overlock) Utility presser foot 41 14512-01 Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel towards you. Set the stitch selector and the stitch length dial to symbol €.LLL. The overlock stitch sews an elastic seam and finish es the seam allowance in one operation.
Seams with edges overcast together Seams with edges overcast together are obtained when you stitch the pieces together and overcast in one step. You can use elastic knit stitch (overlock). Calculate with a 1/4” seam allowance. If you prefer, you can cut the garment with a wider seam allowance, but remember that the left-hand edge of the seam should then follow the marking for the seam. You can see in the picture how the left-hand marking of presser foot 4114 5 12-01 can be used as a guide.
Utility presser foot 41 14512-01 Thread tension III III III III III III III II I Stitch length Stitch selector Elastic straight stitch Raise the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel towards you. Set the stitch selector and the stitch length dial to symbol The elastic straight stitch is a triple-lock straight stitch combining stretchability and strength. The stretchability makes it useful for sewing in jersey and other stretch fabrics.
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Thread tension Buttonhole foot 4111 650 -01 Stitch length Buttonholes Stitch selector — - - — 4 dt1ih In order to sew buttonholes, you should change over to the buttonhole foot (41 11 650-01). You will find it in the accessory box and it is attached in the same way as the ordinary presse r foot. The buttonhole foot has graduated markings to help you make the buttonholes the same length. Loosen the upper thread ten sion by turning the thread tension dial to the but tonhole symbol.
Set the stitch selector to symbol 1. The machine sews the first column of zig-zag stitches in reverse. When the column is the right length, stop the ma chine with the needle raised out of the fabric and turn the dial to symbol 2/4. Now the machine makes the closing bar. Sew three or four stitches. Then stop the machine with the needle raised out of the fabric and turn the dial to symbol 3. 2W?OOOOXN4 Now sew the other column of zig-zag stitches the same distance as the first one.
H H H Fine adjustment of the buttonhole sewing The machine is adjusted to sew buttonholes in as many as possible of the most usual fabrics. How ever, certain combinations of fabric, needle and sewing thread might produce a difference in the ap pearance of the two columns of zig-zag stitches. This can be adjusted by turning the reverse sewing button. Normally the button should be positioned so that the slot is horizontal.
Reinforced buttonholes Garments subject to heavy wear or buttons subject to special strain may sometimes require even stronger buttonholes. Set the stitch selector to sym bol I and sew the first column in exactly the same way as for an ordinary buttonhole but with slightly longer stitches. When the column is the right length, stop the ma chine, with the needle raised, and turn the dial to symbol 3. Sew the second column without making any closing bar.
i 2 F[&N 4 1• Reinforced buttonholes (cont.) Turn the dial to symbol 3 and sew the second column once more. Stop with the needle raised out of the fabric. Turn the dial to symbol 2/4 again and make the second closing bar by sewing three or four stitches. Stop with the needle raised and turn the dial to and lock the threads with a few symbol stitches, while holding back the fabric. The next page shows how to cut buttonholes.
Buttonhole knife The buttonhole knife (40 15 399-01), which you will find in the accessory box, is equipped with a safety cap which, when taken off, can be pushed onto the back of the knife, providing a good handle. 1EZZZD ZD Buttonhole knife 40 15 399-01 Pierce the fabric at right angles until the curved blade edge reaches down to the buttonhole. With the knife more or less parallel to the fabric, push forward, taking care not to cut through the end of the buttonhole.
Upper side U 4114 235-01-02-03 Under side [Jj Raised seam presser foot 4111 389-01 Raised seams Exchange the ordinary needle for a twin needle and be sure to see that it is pressed right up into the needle clamp. Change to the raised seam presser foot (41 11 389-01) and fit the raised seam attach ment (40 15 427-01) with its straight edge toward you. If you wish to use a gimp cord, lay this under the raised seam attachment when you put it on.
Lowering the feed dog The feed dog is lowered when carrying out certain darning work. You lower the feed dog by pressing the symbol on the drop feed button. In order to raise the feed dog again, you press the symbol Sewing on buttons Lower the feed dog. Remove the presser foot, put the button into place and lower the presser bar. As most buttons have a spacing of 1/8”—5/32” (3—4 mm) between the holes, you set the stitch selector to the widest zig-zag.
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* Darning foot (extra accessory) Raise the needle to the highest position. Press arms A and C together between thumb and index finger, place them behind the needle clamp, B, and attach the darning foot, 41 16 342-01, in the same way as the other presser feet, by pressing the pin between the spring and the presser foot “ankle”. The action of the darning foot is accomplished by the needle clamp. Make sure that hook C rests against support D. Lower presser bar lever E.
Care of the machine In order to serve you satisfactorily, your new sewing machine requires regular cleaning, It need not be oiled, however. The throat plate (needle plate) should occasionally be removed and the teeth of the feed dog brushed clean with the brush (40 15 555—01) which is in the accessory box. Whenever necessary, the bobbin case and shuttle (hook) should also be brushed clean.
Maintenance hints In most cases poor sewing results are due to a blunt or damaged needle. Therefore always examine the needle first before taking any other action. Unattractive stitches—unattractive seam 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 9. 2. The needle is bent or blunt. Change the needle. 3. The thread tension is not correct. See page 16. 4. The machine is incorrectly threaded. See pages 10 and 13. 5. The needle, thread and fabric do not correspond. See table, page 9. 6.
Maintenance hints (cont.) Lower thread not brought up by the upper thread The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 9. Uneven thread tension This may be due to poor quality thread. Irregular bobbin winding 1. The bobbin is not pressed in far enough. See page 11. 2. The machine is not correctly threaded for bobbin winding. See page 11. 3. The thread guide for bobbin winding is not cor rectly adjusted. See page 12. Fabric puckers 1. The upper thread is too tightly tensioned. See page 16. 2.
Contents of accessory box 41 11383-01 Zig-zag presser foot mounted on the machine 4! 14512-01 Utility stitch presser foot 41 16 202-02 Accessory box, complete with standard accessories. 4114531-01 Presser foot for thin fabrics 41 II 650-01 Buttonhole foot 40 15 427-01 Raised seam cord guide for use with or without cord 41 12 989-01 Zipper foot 4! 11389-01 Raised seam presser foot.
ED 41 14 401-01 Bobbins, six I iDItL 60 80 40 (5 819-01 Needle case with needles System 705Ff 1060 41 12 697-01 Small screwdriver 40 15 399-01 Buttonhole knife (seam ripper) ‘I 41 II 866-01 Glide plate 40 15 555-01 Brush Contents of accessory box 52 4 9;., ,,. ,.w ps A lw, r ar 1* 4. ,t’.
Extra accessories 4111 384-01. Straight stitch jointed hemmer, 5/64” (2 mm). For straight stitch or small zig-zag stitching. 4111 386-01. Jointed hemmer for scalloping, 1/8” (3 mm). For wide zig-zag and hard tension. Suitable for soft material. 4111 385-01. Jointed hemmer 3/16” (5 mm). For straight stitch or medium zig-zag stitching. 4111 387-01. Jointed hemmer for rolled seams, 5/64” (2 mm). For medium zig-zag. Suitable for thin matena!.
Extra accessories 41 II 822-01. Bias binder. Can be used for 8, 10, 12 and 15 mm wide folded edgings and 22—24 mm (7/8”15/16fl) wide unfolded edgings. Seam distance can be varied, 40 15 367-01. Hemstitcher. Put the fork between two layers of material, which are sewn together with straight stitching and long stitches. (Note: In parts of the U.S.A. “hemstitching” may have a different meaning.) 54 Lu 4113 931-01.
4 Extra accessories V 4114 538-01. Presser foot with five holes for decora tive stitching over yarn or for raised satin-stitching. 4116 287-01. Thread the needle threader from un derneath the presser foot and draw the threads down through the holes. 40 93 005-01. Presser foot for attaching braiding, which is inserted through a guide and attached with a straight stitch in the middle of the braiding. 40 93 022-01. Piping attachment. Insert the cord be tween the layers of the material. 40 15 237-01.
Extra accessories n 4114 235-01. Twin needle No. 80, 5164” (2 mm). 4114 235-02. Twin needle No. 80, 1/8” (3 mm). 4114 235-03. Twin needle No. 80, 5/32” (4 mm). For parallel seams and raised seams. Notice: Max. zig-zag setting on middle and small zig-zag, resp. straight stitch. 4112 683-01. Cutting needle No. 100 for sewing in leather. U ‘r iii 0 o. 4111 622-01. Triplet needle No. 90 with 1/8” (3 mm) needle distance. 4111 622-02. Triplet needle No. 80 with 3/32” (2.5 mm) needle distance. Max.
. OOOOON Stitch length tê 2,5 1 () 0,3-0,5 4 3—3,5 •2 ,. Thread tension Operation guide Straight stitching Joining, hems, pleats. The stitch length can be varied. Straight stitch Gathering. Basting The stitch length can be varied, Zig-zag Overcasting. Stitch length and stitch width can be varied. Zig-zag Sewing on lace. Appliqués. Stitch length and stitch width can be varied. Zig-zag Hemming linen goods. Picot (overcasting folded edge). Zig-zag Gathering.
* Extra accessories 3 EE 4l 14 244-01 Glide plate, for 41 11 650-0 I Buttonhole foot 41 2988-01. Presser foot for special sewing in nylon, tricot etc. Keeps the fabric flat against the throat plate to avoid skipped stitches. 41 II 394-01 Presser foot for extra fine straight stitching in thin fabrics. 41 14 243-01 Glide plate for 41 12989-01 Zipper foot. The glide plate can be used when sewing foam plastic, plastic-coated fabric and leather imitations. Oo 40 15 398-01 41 16342-01. Darning foot.
Three-step zig-zag Overcasting in elastic, thin or easily frayed fabrics. Sewing in terry cloth. Mending Mending and darning in all fabric. Elastic knit stitch Sews and finishes seams in one operation. For stretch and nonstretch materials, especially fabrics that tend to fray. Elastic straight stitch Joining of elastic fabrics. Extra strong, for example for crotch sewing, and arm insertion. Top stitching Decorative stitching. Blindstitch hemming Hemming in close-woven fabrics, Finishing of edges.
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