Instructions / Assembly

Important Notes:
Before removing any existing resilient flooring or tiles, please consult with a flooring professional to
determine if asbestos abatement is necessary to avoid exposure. See current edition of the Resilient
Floor Covering Institute (RFCI) publication “Recommended Work Practices for Removal of Resilient
Floor Coverings” for detailed information and instructions on removing all resilient covered structures.
The products in this carton DO NOT contain asbestos or crystalline silica.
Moisture Barrier and Underlayment:
While it is not necessarily difficult to install a floating floor, you may want to consider having it done
by a professional installer. Planks can be installed with or without padding; it is the discretion of the installer/home
owner. Over a concrete slab; a moisture barrier is recommended but not required, and should consist of at least a
6 mil polyethylene film with the sheets overlapping 6” and taped to prevent moisture migrating to the flooring.
INSTALLATION
Remove wall base and undercut door jambs. Do not secure individual planks to the subfloor as it is designed to be
a floating floor. Do not install cabinets on top of Vinyl Plank flooring. It is recommended to separate all rooms
using T molding, for separations in larger rooms call for recommendations.
Pre-installation inspection:
It is the duty of the person installing the floor to inspect all flooring before installation. If during inspection the
installer or buyer feels the floors is the wrong color, improperly manufactured, is off-grade or is the wrong gloss
level, he/she should NOT install the flooring. Please immediately contact the retailer from which the flooring was
purchased. No claims will the accepted for flooring which is visibly wrong if such flooring is installed. Installed
flooring is deemed to be visibly acceptable.
Plank Installation
1. First, determine how you want the flooring to run. Typically for plank products, the flooring runs the
length of the room. There may be exceptions since it is all a matter of preference.
2. To avoid narrow plank widths or short plank lengths near the walls/doors, it is important to do some pre-
planning. Using the width of the room, calculate how many full boards will fit into the area and how
much space remains that will need to be covered by partial planks.
3. Start with a whole plank in the left hand corner of the room with the tongue side and end toward the wall.
Lay the first row of planks along a chalk line and trim to fit to the wall allowing a 1/4 inch expansion space.
If starting the first row with a whole width plank it will be necessary to trim the tongues next to the wall,
then place the cut ends next to the wall. To trim the planks, use a utility knife and a straight edge to score
the top surface of the plank, and then bend it downward to separate the pieces, you can also use a VCT
(Vinyl Composition Tile) cutter for end cuts only; a table saw or saber saw also works well for both end
and length cuts.
Align and attach the end joints of the planks in the first row by inserting the tongue into the groove. Use
spacers between the long edge and end of the planks next to the wall to maintain the expansion space.