SEWING MACHINE
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. Dear Customer: You have just invested in a very fine please pause for a moment and care for your Specific instructions zigzag sewing and carefully machine. read this booklet Before which using your contains new Kenmore instructions machine, on how to operate machine.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS 4. Never use. not Always unplug before relamping. 15 Watts. Do not reach for the appliance Do not or sink. place or store appliance Do not place 10. Replace bulb with same type rated that has fallen into water. where it can fall in or drop into water or be pulled into a tub reduce fire, electric Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children. 2.
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS "For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way." "Foot Controller Model YC-482P for use with Sewing Machine Models 385.1148x x x, 385.1158x x x, 385.1168x x x, 385.
TABLE OF CONTENTS SECTION KNOW YOUR MACHINE 1. A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available .............. Locate and Identify the Parts .................. Identify the Accessories ........................ SECTION PREPARE 2. YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Set Up the Machine ......................... • Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power • Foot Control Use .......................... • • • SECTION 4 4 5 5 5 • Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension • Accessory Storage Box ......................
SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available A full line of sewing nearest Sears retail Locate and Identify the Parts cabinets are available at your store or through general our catalog. Another your where. Take-up option Kenmore . . . buy a Carrying goes anywhere, Upper Lever Thread Guide Thread Spool Pin Case . . . then can be stored anyBobbin Winding Top Thread Tension Tension Disc Bobbin Winding Spindle \ Control Stitch Length Control Fa
SECTION Arm Cover Plate Carrying 1.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Set Up the Machine • • Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power Power supply Foot Control Use plug Power switch \ supply light Foot Plug connectol 4. Machine plug NOTE: t; 2. Insert Before inserting the plug into your machine, be sure the power switch is OFF. the machine connector, is a tlOto plug into as shown. the It will Insert the power supply plug into 120 three-prong only fit way. 3. The the outlet.
SECTION • Setting Spool Pin Adjust • the Presser Foot Lever Normal position 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE Thread Cutter up cutter positior High position Jp position Presser foot lever / The spool pin of in thread is used for holding order to feed the spool thread to the machine. To use, pull for storage. The Presser Foot Lever spool pin. Push down and lowers your presser foot. You can raise it about up the raises up position to help foot.
SECTION 2. PREPARE Set Up the Machine • YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Choose Your (Continued) • Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table Accessory Storage Box • Change the Presser Foot • Needle and Thread To Change Your Needle Ne_'_e clamp screw \ Flat side away from you To Remove the Extension Table The lid of the accessory storage Use the correct presser foot for (for free-arm sewing) box lifts open toward you. the stitch you wish to sew. 1.
SECTION Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch 2. Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffeta, Medium choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing. Voire, In your needle envelope, you will find the following color-coded Blue (11 ) Orange ......... for stretch (11 ) ........ Red (14) for Purple (16) ........ fabrics. medium weight for or medium-heavy fabrics. medium-heavy and decorative fabrics.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Prepare the Bobbin • To Remove the Bobbin Case from • the Machine Wind the Bobbin Release clutch toward moving Remove the the machine left. Open extension by the table from pulling it to the shuttle cover by pulling down the embossed the left side of the cover. part on To remove tie, pull Pull bobbin open bobbin case from shut- latch of case.
SECTION • 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Wind the Bobbin (Continued) 7 Draw thread from spool through bobbin winding tension disc as shown. Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin as shown. Place bobbin spindle with from the bobbin until • onto top winding it clicks. thread, start slightly filled, bobbin end of of the thread winding bobbin. spindle Holding machine. to the onto Wind thread coming Push bobbin until winder stops.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Prepare Your Top Thread • Thread Your Needle Raise take-up lever to its highest Raise presser foot Place spool on spool 1. Draw thread 2. While holding position by turning hand wheel toward you. lever. pin as shown, into thread thread with thread guide using both near spool, draw coming from the back of the spool. hands. thread down into the tension area and then around check spring holder.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread Raise presser foot thread loosely handwheel lever. Hold top 2. in left hand and rotate toward Bring bobbin thread up top thread. you one complete by pulling 3, Pull both back of threads the under presser to 6 inches of thread foot, and to leaving the 4 clear. turn. If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check: 1. Is needle threaded from front to back? 2.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Adjust the Top Thread Tension Choose the Correct Top The best tension side of fabric Setting mark Tension: will depend on; the stiffness and thickness the number of fabric Loosen of the fabric layers the type of stitch f Top thread The top thread is too loose.
SECTION2. PREPAREYOURMACHINEFORSEWING For Zigzag Stitch In the correct zigzag stitch, of the fabric below and top for the correct the bobbin threads will appearance. threads show will slightly To match not show on the top side on the bottom this appearance, adjust side. your See top tension.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Stitch Selector Stitch Length Control f Model 12781 / / Setting mark Setting mark 0 4 t -- ""'1+1"'" Stitch Selector \\ Stitch Lerlgth \ t I I \\\ I 0 +I-- \ I--2--3--4.
SECTION Stitch Length ,_° "'_" L J PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Reverse Stitch Control Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance fSetting 2. mark \ 0L..._1_2_____ sL J \ ', I .___'' I _ E TI / ' I _I / t Stitch To Length select Control Stretch -'-_ Stitches, set this control at • position. In stretch stitch sewing, Stitch Length Control should be in the detent position between Sand L (vposition) for most materials.
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Starting To Sew Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessoriesprovided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine, Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew: 1. Inspect the needle. afraid It should to change your be straight, needle frequently. properly Many set and sharp on the point.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Straight Stitches • Straight • Use the Seam Guides Stitch Set the Machine Stitch ! Stitch selector ,1 Cornering Top thread tension control 2 to 6 The 1, 2. Raise the presser foot. Raise the needle 7. to its 3. Place the to Zigzag foot edge of a stitching needle plate the fabric guide line (5/8" the end of the to reverse to seam, you may lock the stitch. 8. Raise the presser foot the fabric. 9. Cut the threads.
SECTION Straight • 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Stitches (Continued) • Use the Darning Plate Left Needle Position "ropstitching Set the Machine Stitch Stitch Stitch selector selector I Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Sometimes when to control the fabric The Darning so that you sew, you Here's How want youself. 1, Plate covers the feed dogs they do not touch To put on the Darning 2. the fabric. The rectangular holes in the Darning match in the needle plate.
SECTION Darning 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Straight Stretch Set the Machine Stitch Stitch Set the Machine selector Stitch Stitch selector III Ul III t Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length control any number threadtension control 2 to 6 Top adjust) Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position Here's How 1. Put the darning (see p. 18). 2. Remove presser foot between embroidery centered. 3.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Zigzag Stitches Basic Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch Stitch Top thread tension control 2 to 5 selector Stitch length control orange Here's How There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch. Consult Zigzag foot Satin the specific Stitch Applique p. 21 Work Bar Tacking Button Sewing Rick-rack TJ_e_d ItsUses p. 22 p. 22 Overcasting Overcast variations for detailed p, 23 p. 24 stretch p, 24 stretch p. 25 Serging p.
SECTION • 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Satin Stitch Zigzag w dth: Set the Machine Stitch Stitch Stitch selector length : 1 2 3 Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length control 0.
SECTION 3. Zigzag Stitches • LEARN THE STITCHES (Continued) Applique Bar Tacking Set the Machine Stitch Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Set the Machine selector Stitch Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 Satin stitch foot Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. Stitch around the applique making sure the needle falls along the outer edge of the applique. When sewing corners, lower the needle down into the fabric.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Sew a Button Set the Machine Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch selector Stitch length any number control (not Usethe darning plate for button sewing (see p. 18). To 1. Set the stitch selector at" threads 2. Align the both holes of the button with the slot of the foot and place the left hole of the button just below the needle point. hole 3.
SECTION 3. Zigzag Stitches LEARN THE STITCHES (Continued) OvercastingStitch Rick-Rack Stretch Set the Machine Stitch Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Set the Machine selector Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length control 1 to 2 Helpful Hints Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses This zigzag variation is very useful in garment construction and in finishing raw edges of any sewing project. 24 Stitch Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the raw corner of your seam.
SECTION • Overcast Stretch Stitching (Models 12781, 12681 and 12581) Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitchinc 3.
SECTION 3. Zigzag Stitches LEARN THE STITCHES Lace Work (Models 12781, 12681 and 12581) (Continued) Three-Step Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch Set the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 4 \ Stitch Stitchlength control 0.5 to 1 Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 selector Stitch length control 1 Seam Finishing Zigzag foot Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the edge will be slightly inside the right hand side of the presser foot.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Blind Hemming (Models 12781, 12681 and 12581) 1/4" Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Light Weight Fabric (Regular) Top thread tension control 1 to 4 114" Stitch length control 1 to 3 Heavy Weight Fabric _., Zigzag foot 1. Finish the raw edge of your hem any way you desired. (See Overcasting, p. 2__4) 2. Measure, turn up your hem and pin. NOTE: 3. Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector ) For light weight fabrics, you may need a double fold.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Buttonholes Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 5 Stitch length contro 1. a. Carefully length Sliding buttonhole foot mark on your the buttonhole buttonhole c. under foot the with ing running garment the slider foot the (A) up with the c.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES F1 4. a. Set the stitch selector at 5. a. Set the stitch I b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c. Stop sewing b. Sew at the right until marking stitch. selector you at reach !31 the l back of the buttonhole. c. Stop sewing at the right 6. a. Set the stitch selector at l:l b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c. 7. Remove open with the fabric and cut the hole the buttonhole opener, Stop sewing at the left stitch. stitch.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Sew in a Zipper Fabric Preparation Put the gether right : sides Set the Machine of the fabric to- Stitch and sew to the end of the zip- per opening. Use the reverse to length the at zipper "4" opening and top with thread Zipper 1/8") t lock the stitches. Sew Stitch selector teeth Zipper tape stitch tension at "3", Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Stitch length control 2 To Sew: of opening Zipper foot Right side of fabric 4. 1.
SECTION 8. Open thezipper. 9, Lower the presser foot 10. Close the zipper fabric right side up, and stitch and turn the the rest of the seam. To sew the right set right side of the needle. 12. Stitch the side of per, across zipper and the zip- foot on the bot- INVISIBLE ZIPPER AND CORDING INVISIBLE ZIPPER Adjust the foo_ so the needle is sewing through the _e_ter ho!=_of the foot er_d __r_e_roe,._ ef . .
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Shell Stitching (Models 12781 and 12681) Smocking Set the Machine Stitch Set the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension control 3 to 9 Stitch Stitch length control 1to 2 Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position Here's How I. For best effect: - set the stitch length L__J as you desire.
SECTION Elastic Stretch Stitch (Model 12781 only) Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 LEARN THE STITCHES Box Stitching (Model 12781 only) Set the Machine Stitch 3, Set tha Machine selector Stitch Stitch length control yellow Stitch Top thread tension _tro! I to 4 selector Stitch length control I position \_ Use this stitch to join heavy weight interlining. stretch stitch k__J Zigzag foot Zigzag foot Overlap two raw edges together and use this stitch to join them.
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART What to Do When PROBLEM PROBABLE Incorrect Irregular Stitches Breaking Needle Bunching of Thread Puckering 34 CAUSE size needle. Improper threading. Loose upper thread tension. Pulling fabric. Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin, Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Loose presser foot. CORRECTION Choose correct size needle for thread Rethread machine, and fabric.
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART What to Do When (Continued) PROBLEM Skipping Stitches Breaking Upper Thread PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect size needle. Bent or blunt needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric. Insert new needle. Reset needle. Loosen upper thread tension. Starting to stitch too fast. Improper threading, Tight upper thread tension: Incorrect size needle. Start to stitch at a medium Rethread machine.
SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE Replacing the Light Bulb Cleaning the Machine To insure that your machine The feed dogs and shuttle operates at its best, you need to keep the essential race areas can attract dust and lint. Your machine parts clean at atl times. can become sluggish or knock loudly if a thread is caught. Check and clean those areas about If you sew frequently, i p The light bulb will normal use. I be HOT.
SECTION5. CAREFORYOURMACHINE • Clean the Shuttle Race This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread, about every three months. Center pin of the shuttle Shuttle Clean the shuttle race area driver Lever Shuttle Lever Bob_ Race L _ (Oil hare) Shuttle Cover case To Clean the Shuttle 1. Raise point 2; the Area: needle and remove Prush:shui&_e bar To Replace to the bobbin its highest _a,l_ tevers aside; 4. Clean the brush.
SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE Oiling the Machine Oil the frequently, machine sewing machine Kenmore NOTE: • in all areas shown oil the machine sewing Unplug oil. under One or two machine on this page at least once a year; otherwise the top cover about drops of oil is sufficient. oil is available the machine before at your oiling. nearest Remove every three months.
PARTS LIST All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Searsstore or service center. WHEN 1 2 3 4 5 6 ORDERING REPAIR 1. PART NUMBER 3. MODEL If the parts transmitted 8 13 17 9 14 18 10 11 15 19 12 16 20 21 ALWAYS you t 2 3 4 5 2. PART NUMBER need are not to a Sears Repair Ref. No. 7 PARTS, GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION: DESCRIPTION 4. NAME stocked locally, OF ITEM your Parts Distribution order Part No.
INDEX A Accessory Adjusting Applique Arm cover storage box ............... stretch stitch balance ......... ........................ plate .................. 2, 6 15 22 3, 38 Feed dogs ....................... Foot control .................... Free arm sewing 36 3_4 .................... 6 H Hand wheel ..................... 3, 16 B Bar tacking ...................... Basic zigzag ...................... Blind hemming .................... Bobbin ................... Bobbin case ................
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WARRANTY FULL 25-YEAR For 25 years WARRANTY from ON SEWING the date of purchase, components MACHINE Sears will, of the sewing HEAD free of charge, repair machine defects in material or workmanship t in the mechanical # FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material which appear head. # # appear in the speed control.