55039 I N.
TABLE OF CONTENTS Adjusting for Good Stitches ..................... 38 Adjusting Pressure of Presser Foot ............. 10 Adjusting Tensions ........................... t2 _ 13 Applique .............................................. 26 Basting ................................................ Biind Stitching ...................................... Buttonholes .................................... 11 t9 20 - 25 Changing the Presser Foot ....................... 15 Cleaning and Oiling ........................
FRONT VIEW ® o o @ o ® ® O 1. Hand Hole Cover Plate 7. Thread Guide 12. Stitch Width Control Knob 2. 3, 4. 5, Feed Dog Presser Foot Presser Foot Thumb Screw Thread Guides 8. Face Cover Plate 13. Stitch Length Control Lever 9. 10. Thread Take.up Arm Cover Plate 14. Light Switch 15. Fead Dog 6. Thread Tension 11. Bobbin Winder t6.
BACK VIEW ¢ 17. Ho_d _,. Clutch 39 _u_tonhole 20. Wheel Knob. 22. Bobbi_ W,_der Tension R_verse Stitch {.ength Control _'3. Presser Fo_,_ Kr,_b Upper Thread Spool_ Pros 24. Upper Thread G_es _5, Presser Foot L_v_r 26. Ne_dlQ Clornp Sc,ew 27.
INSTALLING MACHINE HEADIN PORTABLE ANDCABINET Loosen the edge of cabinet the machine cutout _2_. two hinge screws bed Sllp and tighten hinge screws Lower machine head to Screw spool pins the spool pins. accessory box. O under holes in the rear 11_. Raise hinge pins in the machine head onto the pins securely front flap. _3 . in place. Lay the plastic discs over Discs and pins are packed in the SEWING LIGHT O O The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate as shown.
NEEDLE ANDTHREAD TABLE THREAD Cotton SIZE NEEDLE SiZE Sheer cottons, s_JkL and synthetics 11 A Cotton FABRIC 60-100 Synthetic Silk PLACEMENT OFNEEDLE i 60-80 Fine Raise needle bar to its highest sition by turning hand toward you. screw+ laces side Medium weight cottons Medium weight Silks needle Synthetic Medium weight synthetics needle Si_k Light Mercerized 50 14 A Cotton 40.
REMOVING BOBBIN CASEFROM SHUTTLE Needle at its highest position. Pull out latch. Pull bobbin straight case out.
WINDING THE BOBBIN 0 0 Place post. thread Draw on spool /"-__ thread as _/_11_-_:,--_ _ ..... ..... Release clutch by turning clutch knob toward you. Start machine. 0 Wind bobbin 0 thread a few around times. When bobbin winding is full, mechanism stops. 0 bobbin bobbin winder latch ,_-, ki.::: 0 Place Push ,%,. bobbin until onto shaft. winder it clicks. Tighten and clutch remove knob bobbin. ....................... ii!i: _6_ _.....
INSERTING BOBBIN INTOBOBBIN CASE ......... CASEINTOSHUTTLE Guide bobbin center slot. Pull thread through Pull thread under Holding 0 onto [atch, 0 tension position pin of bobbin spring. case into 0 • / case. shuttle, \ release latch.
THREADING UPPER MACHINE Place thread as illustrated between discs of the Thread Tension Assembly. Prevent the spool of thread from turning and by holding the end ol the thread pull spring wire loop up and pa_t the top hook until the thread can be slipped nto the hook. When thread tension is released, the spring wire loop will return to pos_t_on as shown with the thread in proper place. Release spool of thread and continue to th'ead machine as illustrated.
PICKING UP BOBBIN THREAD Raise Hold hand _Di YI YiL::)] in left complete Bring bobbin thread up by pulling See illustration. Place threads back under presser ............. _]i i presser foot lever. needle thread loosely wheel toward you one band and turn. upper rotate thread. foot. ii_,__ ADJUSTING THEPRESSURE OFTHEPRESSER FOOTPush down outer ring of presser foot knob illustration). This will release pressure foot. To increase pressure, push down until suitable pressure is obtained.
V SETTING STITCHLENGTH The stitch length lever controls the stitch length. Set lever to any desired stitch length position between 0 and 4 by turning knob until the indicator is aligned with the stitch length number desired. The red mark indicates the setting for a satin stitch. This will vary slightly depending upon the type of material to be sewn. At No. 4 the longest stitch is obtained. The size of stitch you select will depend on fabric you are sewing.
ADJUSTING TENSIONS O A perfect two layers stitch will of fabric have threads with no loops locked on top between or (Refer to page 38) Fig. 1 PROBLEM 0 Fig. Upper Upper 12 too tight Decrease Tension Increase Tension 2 O Fig. thread REMEDY 3 thread too loose the bottom.
[ INCREASE TENSION Whenstitchingis figures thread 2 and tension. requires than 1 as upper tension adjustment the When unsatisfactory 3, adjust the Lower thread upper stitch and less thread is cause may be upper and lower frequently tension. is satisfactory, seam in badly tight as in figure puckered, tensions may Turn J Clockwise. the and both be adjusted. J When adjusting bobbin case, with It tension slight a screwdriver.
INSERTING ANDREMOVING THEMATERIAL For all kinds 5. of sewing, Before placing see that : the * The presser foot are both tight. .The kind sizes of of work tensions material and needle take-up have been feed , Stitch desired Experiment dog at their adjusted.
CHANGING THEPRESSER FOOT The various attachment feet to be fastened to the presser available bar. for certain kinds of work are To attach the foot, raise the presser bar to its highest position by raising the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the front. Tighten the screw using the large screw driver and make sure that the foot is secure. kl N TURNING A CORNER Stop Turn sewing fabric. machine Lower with presser needle in fabric.
ZIGZAGCONTROL SETTING STITCH WIDTH lnsert between disc _1. 0 and ! to 4, Straight or by removal When not sewing be 4 Turn the stitch on the knob, of stitching pattern with advanced width Zigzag is possible dis_:. the double beyond 2_, knob stitch to the width desired increases only with control the stitch width needte on setting from 0 setting,, control must setting, INSERTING PATTERN DISC i. 2. Turn Pull 3. Grasp pattern disc and slip disc onto the shaft.
> i >> ! € I 1 = 2 6 7 8 9 21 10 22 23 t 24 J DECORATIVE STITCHING This machine supplied with stitches indicator may See enables your you machine, are made with plate. Stitch be changed page 25. by When using using to sew beautiful The movements the satin stitch length will vary any the other disc decorative of the fo0St, stitch width slightly depending lengt h numbers or width, 2]. 22, Disc number 21 also makes the stretch stitch when on Stretch Fabrics, See page 27.
DARNING WITHPRESSER FOOT: 1. Turn 2. Press down outer ring of in this position, mending, feed dog control to left. 3. Stretch fabric tightly 4. Lower presser bar presser darning, between so foot knob, monogram two thread spring will darning 5. stitches. When you for general dog control Fast movement finish darning, raise sewing by pressing to right. embroidery have move fabric back and forth to cover sewing at right angles to the previous can make any length stitches desired.
SEWING ONBUTTONSu.. d,.o Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold securely. Drop feed dog. Turn hand wheel by hand until needle point is just above button. Adjust stitch width so that needle will align with a hole of button. Turn hand wheel again by hand so that needle goes into second hole, readjust stitch width if necessary. Stitch a number of times, turning hand wheel manually. Finish sewing with an extra 2 inches of thread, draw thread to reverse side and tie securely.
Use BUTTONHOLES (Models 68, 95, 1600, 1650, t651, 1652) disc _: I and special buttonhole _oot Stitch tength at red mark Buttonho[e control knob F Feed dog cantrol U Place the fabric, with the buttonhole length marked at both ends, under the buttonhole foot. Without lowering the foot, let the needle pierce the fabric at the beginning of the buttonhole. Set the foot so the beginning of the red zone _closest to the needle_ is at the mark of the opposite end of the buttonhole. Lower the foot.
Position V 1 Step 1 Position v V F 2 Step 2 v ¸ R _ _••: A"_ rr/ :a.
BUTTONHOLES Use disc _ 1 Stitch (Models 96, 17501 width Feed dog control-Lef_ knob- about 1_ @ I! Covet plate for butlonholes 0 i,4!_ /- Remove and insert plate. ,__:/i regular Covet" cover buttonhole l_Jo I a plate cover Select snap desired into guide template plate, and Pull guide plate all the way forward so that guide pin is at S. This will enable you to start at one end of the buttonhole.
HINTSFORPERFECT BUTTONHOLES O O Mark the buttonhole with chalk ii!__ _:! position ;: : facing of a firm fabric. Use cambric or taffeta between woolens and thread through guide plate and draw toward back. Place threads material on the guide presser foot Buttonhole plate. and will start be Drop sewing. formed.
BUTTONHOLES (Model 0 t654) Use disc # 1 Stitch width knob- about 1 0 _[uidepinhol! _ pinL0__ear Remove regular cover plate and insert buttonhole Feed dog control- Left Cover plate for buttonhotes cover plate, Screw guide pin on guide plate into guide pin hole on machine bed. Select desired size of buttonhole by turning disc as shown above. Length of buttonhole appears in window on top s{de of guide plate. Pull guide plate all the way forward so that guide pin is at S.
HINTS FOR PERFECT BUTTONHOLES O O Mark the position of each buttonhole on the garment with chalk or a line of basting. Loosely woven fabrics and fabrics that stretch easily such as jersey should have an interfacing of a firm fabric, Use cambric or taffeta between woolens and rayons-organdy or lawn between light weight and sheer fabrics. Use buttonhole buttonhole cutter hole open. Pick up bobbin thread thraugh guide plate and draw threads toward back.
APPLIQUEu_o,,,_:,1 Baste cutout 4, Set stitch applique to fabric, length at the red plate. Zigzag stitch ing the raw edge, around Set mark applique stitch width 2 to on the indicator completely cover- SEWING ONLACE uso,_o_1 Set stitch width to 2. Set stitch length to 2 or 3. Place fabric under the presser foot anti position lace inch from edge of fabric, Position fabric and lace so that stitching right stitch catches left edge of lace, so that edge of lace is overcast.
OVERCASTINGu. d_s° ;_ Set stitch width to 4. Set stitch length Zigzag stitch around raw edge of fabric cover the edge. to about 3. to completely f. WRITING ANDMONOGRAMMING U_e d.: _1 i iill _ Free hand Stitch width 0 to 4 Feed dog control Left Draw initials or words fabric into embroidery either zigzag or straight foot. Set stitch width as desired. Slip hoop lower presser bar and thread through fabric. along marked outline, hands, to be sewn on fabric and fit hoops. Writing is done with stitching.
DOUBLE NEEDLE 1. SETTING THEDOUBLE NEEDLE Raise clamp the needle bar to its highest screw. Hold double needle from you. clamp, and Slip the needle tighten the screw. as position assembly far as it and with will loosen needle flat side away go into needle 2. THREADING THEDOUBLE NEEDLE Place a spool of thread on each through upper thread guides. of tension dis_:s of the thread spool pin. Draw both Pass a thread between tension assembly.
4. STITCHING All decorative Before by turning fabric stitch patterns starting any the without width are possible stitching handwheel with operation, double check manually. Needle touching presser foot control must not be needle. needle drop should and needle advanced enter plate. beyond The 23 setting. 5. TURNING A CORNER To turn needle, the a stop fabric.
SYNTHETICS Your KENMORE will sew all the new fabrics of synthetic fiber, such as nylon, *Orion, _ _Dacron, rayon, acetate, blends o| these, and combinations of synthetic and natural gibers. When stitching a fabric of hlended or cnmbined fibers, handle it as you would a material of the fiber present in the [arRest percentage. For example, a fabric woven of 60% Orlon and 40% silk should be handled as one made entirely of Orlon. When stitching a fabric that is over 50% synthetic fiber, remember: a.
REPLACEMENT OFTHEBELT Push motor against machine and remove belt from motor pulley. Let motor down gently. Pull belt out over hand wheel. Install new belt reversing the above procedure. CLEANING ANDOILING Keep the thread Cleaning When moving machine noise, place machine oil A, B, & C. Swing points Fig. parts free from dust and for quiet and efficient operation. should be done with a small brush. runs a at hard or makes drop of KENMORE the points indicated i excessive sewing in figs.
t!_ at top of machine head. To _,_: take disc out from machine, :_ and lifft cover. It may 1. be necessary to clean remove remove the cover too shuttle Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove bobbin ca_,e. Push levers sideways from the shuttle assembly and lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out by the center pin. 2. 32 plate, screws F;o. B area occasionally. 3. Clean small brush. the shuttle particles of 4.
To reass_mble, hold shuttle by center pin and fit carefully into assembly opposite the shuttle driver. Slip shuttle race cover into place. Snap the levers into position. Occasionally, remove the needle plate and clean feed dog with a soft brush.
WHAT TO DO i= '1II II PROBLEM irregular Stitches size Improper threading. I upper Pulling Breaking Needle I needle. choose Light pressure an Loose presser fao_, wound Pulling fabric, Incorrect size Incorrect tension. presser foot. Bunching of ! Thread bobbin. end drown back Feed dog Incorrect Puc_:ering 34 pull increase needle _page thread pressure guide _page _page Do not pull fabric; Choose correct of needle.
WHAT TO DO ,. i ii i i n i i i i I II PROBLEM PROBABLE Skipping IncOrreCt size Ben_, or b{unt Incorrect I II [ I I IIIII III ill II CAUSG neecl_e. Choose need{e. Insert new need|e, Reset need|e tension, Loosen setting of IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII Illill I I CORRECTION correct size needle needle _'page _poge for thread and |abric _page 5_. Fabric _poge 5_. 57, 5_.
PARTS LIST All parts listed here may be ordered through your nearest Sears or Simpsons- Sears retail store, catalog sates office or mail order house.
Whenordering theseparts,pleasebesureto mentionthefollowingreferences : 1. Model& serialnumbers of machine shownonthenomenctature plate. Seepage2. 2. Parts number(s) and description(s) here. When ordering by mail, prices will be furnished on request, or parts will be shipped at prevailing prices and you will be bilged accordingly. Ref. No= Par s No. Description Ref. No. _tion Ref. No.
ADJUSTING When your sewing YOUR machine SEWING does not sew MACHINE a properly locked The upper and bobbin thread should be matched in size and type. Check threading carefully, See page 9. Check the thread tension balance. Use mercerized thread, and for the fabric you are using. Do not try this test with synthetic break. c. fabric into the case. of your fabric fold.
39
_[ 40 ]1_.
SEWING MACHINE SEARS, ROEBUCK SIMPSONS-SEARS AND CO., Chicago, IL I U.S.A. and LIMITED, Toronto, Ontario, Canada Printed in Japan Part No.