Owner Manual

START HERE BEFORE YOU BEGIN PAINTING OR STAINING
Note: Failure to comply with these guidelines will aect your warranty.
1) Before you begin the nishing process, perform all machining for door hinges and lockset boring.
Test-hang the door to be sure it ts and operates smoothly, and then remove to nish. Doors must
not bind or be impaired when tting to the opening. To ensure proper t refer to FRAMEPORT
installation instructions for interior pine doors.
* IMPORTANT NOTE: The top and bottom edge surfaces of all FRAMEPORT 1-3/8” (or thicker)
pine door slabs are factory-sealed with two coats of UV cured protection. Top and bottom
edges of doors should be sanded for painting. If you are staining the door, there is no need
to sand or stain top and bottom edge; these factory-sealed edges will not absorb stain and
provide high-quality protection as-is. If you TRIM the bottom (or top) edge of the door, you
must sand and apply protective sealer if staining or clear-coating; or primer if painting.
2) Lay the door in a at horizontal position on sawhorses for best nishing results. Before applying
rst nishing coat, inspect the door and remove all handling marks, scus, and other undesirable
blemishes by block sanding all surfaces. Use #320 grit sandpaper for unnished doors. Use #400 grit
sandpaper for primed doors. Avoid cross-grain scratches by sanding in the direction of the grain.
Sand front and back faces, left and right edges and louvers (if door has louvers). See important
note* above regarding sanding of top and bottom edges. To ensure uniform moisture exposure
and dimensional control, all surfaces must be sanded, treated and nished equally.
3) After sanding is complete, clean entire door with a clean wiping “tack” cloth to remove all dust and
foreign debris. Avoid use of caustic or abrasive materials. Do not use steel wool on bare wood. Do not
nish during or after high-moisture periods. Door must be dry before nishing.
4) It is the nisher’s responsibility to protect glass prior to and during nishing. Glass panels in
FRAMEPORT doors come with a factory applied protective lm. If plastic lm has been torn or
dislodged, use painter’s tape to cover glass or to hold lm in place for nishing. Plastic lm protection
on the glass should be removed immediately after applying the nish. Failure to remove the plastic
lm at this time may cause harm to the glass and may create diculty in removing the lm. Use
caution when removing lm to avoid scratching the glass.
STAINING OR CLEAR FINISHING - UNFINISHED INTERIOR PINE DOORS:
Note: Before you begin staining your door, consider that wood contains natural chemicals that react
unfavorably to some nishes. Softwoods like Pine take stains dierently and may appear uneven or
blotchy after staining. It is recommended to test the stain on wood doors to ensure a satisfactory
nish result. Follow stain manufacturer’s recommendations.
A wood conditioner / sanding sealer should be applied prior to staining to promote a uniform
appearance and avoid sharp color contrasts or a blotchy appearance.
A sealer allows for even
stain application, it also reduces grain contrast and the depth of stain penetration. As with all nishes,
test prior to full application. Talk with a paint professional regarding your specic application needs.
Follow wood conditioner /sanding sealer manufacturer’s recommendations.
(Continued at top of page 2)
Finishing Instructions for Interior
Pine Wood Doors - Unnished or Primed
IMPORTANT: Sanding of unnished and primed doors is mandatory for all door surfaces,
(including louvers) before you begin painting or staining your new Frameport door.
Page 1
Sanding of unnished and primed doors
is mandatory for all door surfaces,
(including louvers) before you begin
painting or staining your new Frameport
door.
Using the incorrect topcoat product (paint,
stain, clear coat or primer) and/or improper
topcoat application techniques can result
in issues not covered by the FRAMEPORT
warranty.
POOR PAINT ADHESION: A poor bonding of
paint to the door can be caused by using
incorrect topcoat, watered down paints,
nishing in high humidity environments,
painting an improperly prepared door; and
not sanding the door prior to applying the
nish coat.
TELEGRAPHING: A rise in ber that looks
like raised “straw-like” protrusions can be
caused by using incorrect topcoat, watered
down paints, nishing in high humidity
environments and painting an improperly
prepared door.
ORANGE PEEL EFFECT: An “orange-skin”
look to the nish can be caused by one or
more of the following: incorrect topcoat, not
allowing paint to fully dry between coats;
and excessive topcoat application.
Note: Multiple thin paint coats provide
best nish results.