Installation Guide

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Setting posts
Install end and corner posts first. Tie a string between the posts
along the fence line. This establishes a reference, ensuring the
posts are in line (see Fig. 3).
Brace the posts using 2x4s nailed to both the posts and stakes
in the ground. This will keep them straight while the concrete
sets. Check for plumb (90º angle) on two adjacent sides prior to
pouring concrete. Fill holes with ready-mix concrete following the
package instructions. Tamp the concrete to remove any air pock-
ets. Overfill the holes at the top and slope the concrete away from
the post to keep water from collecting around it. Recheck plumb
and alignment of all posts and allow concrete to cure for 24 to
48 hours.
Cutting posts to proper height
Installing panels and pickets
An easy method to ensure your post tops are level is to run a
string from corner post to corner post at the desired height, keep-
ing the string taut (see Fig. 3). Mark each post at the string line
and cut off the tops of the posts. Finish off your posts with one of
our decorative finial tops.
For preassembled fence panels, use 18d to 20d nails to attach
them to the posts. If possible, pre-drill holes through the panels
to minimize any splitting from using such a large nail.
To install loose pickets to backer rails, use 8d or 10d box nails.
Start at one end of the rail and check for level and plumb every
three or four pickets. If you wish to build a solid “privacy” fence,
butt the pickets without leaving a gap in between. To build a
spaced picket fence, cut a board the width of the desired gap and
use it as a spacer. Remember to check for plumb every few pick-
ets. Use two backer rails for shorter fences, three rails for fences
6' tall, and four rails for 8' tall fences. NOTE: Attach rail 4" from
the top and bottom of pickets to minimize picket movement.
Shadowbox
Fig. 3
Connecting backer rails to posts
There are many ways to attach the backer rails or stringers to the
posts (see Fig. 4). Place a board under preassembled panel to
use as a lever to adjust the panel to the proper height on the post.
All backer rails should run the same measurement to the ground
and to each other on a horizontal plane, regardless of minor grade
changes. Your finished product will be much more appealing to
the eye if proper attention is given to this detail.
Fig. 4
Toe Nailed
Face Nailed
Mortise & Tenon
FENCE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Digging post holes
A general rule of thumb is to place 1/3 of the length of the post
in the ground. The fence will be stronger if end, corner and gate
posts are set at least 6" deeper. Using a posthole digger or power
auger, dig the holes 10-12" wide and 6" deeper than needed.
Backfill the hole with 6" of gravel to drain water away from the
bottom of the post (see Fig. 2). Keep the height of your fence
panels in mind when digging your postholes.
Cement
6" Gravel
10" - 12"
Fig. 2