Installation Guide

INSTALLATION
18 gauge staple or cleat
Fastener Schedule – All Products
Staples - 1”- 2” from ends and 3”-4” thereafter
Cleats – 1” – 2” from ends and 4” thereafter
Glue Assist - For products greater than 5” in width, it is recommended to use a combination glue down assist when using
mechanical fasteners. Apply a urethane based wood ooring adhesive to the suboor prior to installing the planks. Follow the
standard fastener schedule. *This installation method doesn’t require the use of a traditional vapor retarder, which enables
the glue to adhere to the suboor rather than the paper.
Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for complete set-up and operation of equipment.
Getting Started
1. After the suboor has been properly cleaned and prepped cover the suboor with 15lb. asphalt felt paper. This material will help to keep the oor clean
and help to retard moisture from below (there is no complete moisture barrier system for staple or nail-down applications).
2. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be straight and square with the room. Measure out from this wall, at each end, the overall
width of the plank (board width + tongue + the space needed (3/8” or ½”) for expansion).
3. Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to that wall.
4. Install the rst row of starter planks along the chalk line/straightedge and secure into position with the tongue facing away from the starter wall
(toward you). Drill pilot holes through the face of the plank every 6” (in the dark grain); approximately 1” from the back edge of the board and secure
planks with 1” nishing nails. Countersink nails and ll with appropriate colored wood ller – remove excess ller from surface.
5. Blind nail at a 45° angle through the tongue 1”-2” from the end joints and every 6” in between along the length of the starter boards (Predrill holes to
make this easier). Depending on the width of the ooring it may be necessary to do this for the rst few rows prior to using a pneumatic stapler/nailer.
NOTE: Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of ooring.
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Installing the Floor
6. Continue to install the ooring making sure to nail/staple 1”-2” from the ends and every (3”– 4” staples) or (4”Cleats) thereafter. Make certain the tool is
adjusted properly to ensure that the fastener is at the proper angle and is ush within the nail pocket. As you continue working across the oor try to
maintain a six-inch minimum space between end joints. Randomly install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance.
7. If needed use a tapping block to help engage the boards together until the tongue-and-groove is ush and tight and no gaps are present between
adjacent planks. NOTE: Never use a rubber mallet or hammer directly on the ooring to engage the tongue-and-groove. This can damage the ooring
and/or nish.
8. As you approach the end wall it may be necessary to cut the width of the last row – be sure to allow for the expansion along the end wall. Once the nal
cuts are made set planks into place.
9. The last few rows will need to be fastened by hand. To fasten the nal planks into place, you must either manually blind nail and/or face-nail through the
surface on the nal planks. Drill pilot holes at a 45-degree angle to the oor and blind nail using l” nishing nails. Alternatively, drill pilot holes in the
face every 6” (try to drill holes in darker portion of the wood) and install with 1” nishing nails. Countersink nails and ll with appropriate colored wood
ller – remove excess ller from surface with a clean rag and proper cleaner.
FLOATING FLOOR INSTALLATION GUIDELINES (PRODUCTS 3” OR WIDER ONLY)
Additional tools & material needed
Shaw T&G Adhesive
Terry Cloth towels
Foam underlayment
Pry/Pull Bar
Hardwood Floor Cleaner/Shaw R2X
6 Mil Poly Plastic Sheeting
Tapping Block & Spacers
2in1 Underlayment
Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to the Pre-Installation Job Prep information above.
6 Mil Polyethylene not required over a vinyl, wood, or a wood product suboor.
6 Mil Polyethylene required over concrete type suboors – on grade or below grade.
Do not install over carpet.
If installing over vinyl, ensure that the vinyl is secure to the suboor. Do not install over perimeter glued vinyl.
If installing over an existing wood oor, install the ooring at right angles to the wood oor.
Secure creaking and loose oorboards with screws.
Do not install over wood ooring glued to a concrete suboor.
½” of expansion space required at all vertical surfaces.
Note: Larger rooms require additional expansion space. Add 1/16” to the width of the expansion space for every 3’ the room extends beyond 25’.
Dimensions exceeding 40’in length or width – it is recommended to use a T-Molding for proper expansion.
Getting Started
1. Remove all doors and shoe moldings. Undercut all door casings 1/16” higher than the thickness of the ooring and underlayment to be installed. Place a
scrap piece of plank and a sheet of underlayment against the door casing to act as a guide and cut the door casing with a hand saw or power jamb saw
set to the correct height.
2. After determining the direction to run the planks, measure the width of the room (the dimension perpendicular to the direction of the ooring). The last
row of the ooring should be no less than 1 ½” wide; if it is less, cut the width of the starter row to avoid a narrow last row.
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shawoors.com
For reference purposes only if printed or downloaded.