4T968DC Instruction Book
14T968DC This SINGER sewing machine, model 14T968DC, SINGER is a registered trademark of The Singer Company Limited or its affiliates. ©2008 The Singer Company Limited or its affiliates. All rights reserved.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed including the following. Read all instructions before using the machine. DANGER -To reduce the risk of electric shock: * The machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug the machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. * Always unplug before re-lamping. Replace bulb with the same type rated 15 watts.
* Do not use outdoors. * Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. * Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children. * Do not expose the machine or machine plastic case to sunlight directly. Also, do not keep it in a very warm or damp place. * Do not touch the machine, foot controller and power line cord with wet hand, wet cloth or with anything wet.
TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Page 1. Selection stitches & Auto tension.............................. 5 2. Handy Reference Chart............................................ 8 3. Accessories.............................................................. 9 4. Needle Information................................................... 9 5. Principal Parts..........................................................10 6. How to Open Looper Cover.....................................12 7. Principal Parts Behind Looper Cover...
1. SELECTION OF STITCHES & AUTO TENSION This machine is capable of producing various types of stitches according to the combination of Auto Tension Selected, needle positions, threading methods, and the use of convertible right looper/spreader. Stitch Type 1. Double Chain Stitch ATD: D 2. Two-thread Wrapped Edge Overlock ATD: D ATD: G 3. Two-thread Overedge ATD: E 4. Three-thread Overlock ATD: A ATD: B 5. Three-thread Flatlock ATD: F 6.
Stitch Type 8. Four-thread Safety Stitch Reference Page ATD : Auto Tension Dial Selected The 4-thread stitch is a safety stitch made up of combined 2-thread overedge and double chainstitch. 47 ATD: I 9. Five-thread Safety Stitch Wide The 5-thread stitch is a safety stitch made up of combined 3-thread overlock and double chainstitch. A wide seam is formed by using left needle. ATD: B 10. Five-thread Safety Stitch Narrow ATD: A 11. Cover Stitch Narrow (2.8mm) ATD: K 12. Cover Stitch Wide (5.
* Depending on the needle positions used, this machine can sew 2-thread and 3-thread standard width 4 mm overedge and a 6 mm wide overedge seams. Also, for overedging heavyweight fabrics, the seam width can be increased still more by turning the overedge seam width adjustment knob. (See page 31) Overedge width 4.0 mm 6.
2. HANDY REFERENCE CHART Stitch Type A T D S L D F L / C Correct Threading / Tension Path: When using the Auto Tension Dial (ATD), the correct tension is set automatically.
3. ACCESSORIES Accessories are contained in the accessory case 1. Screw driver (large size) 2. Knife (stationary) 3. Thread Unwinder spool cap 4. Anti-spill net 5. Oiler 6. Allen Screw driver (small) 7. Tweezers 8. Needle set 9. Brush 10. Cone Adapters 11. Waste tray 12. Machine cover 1 1 5 5 1 1 1 1 1 5 (on machine) 1 in carton 1 in carton 2 1 7 6 4 3 8 9 10 11 4.
5. PRINCIPAL PARTS 1. Thread guides and holder 2. Handle 3. Left needle thread tension fine tuning lever (orange) 4. Right needle thread tension fine tuning lever (blue) 5. Upper looper thread tension fine tuning lever (green) 6. Lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever (red) 7. Chain stitch looper thread tension fine tuning lever (brown) 8. Needle plate 9. Cloth plate 10. Looper cover 11. Power & light switch 12. Stitch length dial 13. Hand wheel 14. Spool stand 15. Cone adaptor 16. Spool pin 17.
PRINCIPAL PARTS 19. Presser bar lifter and tension release 20. Differential feed adjusting dial 21. Cutting width dial 22.
6. HOW TO OPEN LOOPER COVER Caution: Be sure to turn off power switch. 1 Push the cover to the right as far as it will go. Pull cover down toward you. Caution: Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing. 2 Note: Machine will not operate when Looper Cover is open. 7. PRINCIPAL PARTS BEHIND THE LOOPER COVER 1. Upper looper 2. Moveable Upper knife 3. Presser foot 4. Fixed position lower knife 5. Lower looper 6. Chain/Cover looper 7. Rolled Hem lever 8. Spreader 9.
POLARIZED PLUG INFORMATION (FOR U.S.A. & CANADA ONLY) This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
10. PREPARATION FOR THREADING Setting Up the Thread Guide Holder Take out the thread guide from the top of Styrofoam, and insert it as shown on illustration. This machine is shipped with the thread guide holder in the lowered position. Fully extend the thread guide holder. The two joints on the telescope will click into place when they are correctly positioned. Center the thread guides above the spool pins. Place thread over the cone adapters on the spool pins.
11. HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT NEEDLES Overedge left needle Overedge right needle Needle Position With this machine, five needles can be inserted into the needle clamp as shown in the drawing but only one or two or three needles are to be used for sewing. Do not attempt to use four or five needles. A B Cover stitch right needle Cover stitch middle needle / Chain stitch needle C The Instruction Book refers to different needle positions by illustrating the needle clamp at right.
12. THREADING THE MACHINE 5 4 1 2 3 Chain stitch Threading Diagram: Overlock and Safety Stitches Overlock A color coded threading diagram is located inside the looper cover for quick reference. Thread the machine in the order 1 to 5 as shown. Note: Threads go through the take-up lever cover for Overlock and Chain stitching as shown. C L Tension Color Code: Overlock and Safety Stitch 1 2 1. Upper looper thread............................ Green 2. Lower looper thread............................
To Thread The Machine Correctly 1 Caution: Be sure to turn off power switch. 2 Note: The instructions on this page and the following pages will guide you through the proper threading for each color coded threading path. Before threading, refer to the Handy Reference Chart for information on Stitch Types, Settings, Needle Sockets and Color Coded Threading Paths. 3 4 1) Threading the Upper Looper (Green) 9 5 8 Thread the upper looper as indicated 1~9. 7 Raise Presser foot to release tension discs.
Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides (4~9). 4 8 9 Thread the hole in the upper looper from front to back 9. Note: Make sure thread passes behind lower looper. 9 5 Note: Use tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper. 8 6 7 Pull about 10cm(4 inches) of thread through the looper and place to the back of the needle plate. 1 2) Threading the Lower Looper (Red) Thread the lower looper as indicated 1~10.
While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3. 3 3 Turn the hand wheel toward you until the lower looper extends out 5~10mm from the needle plate edge. 4 10 5 9 Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4~10. 8 7 Note: Use tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper.
3) Threading the Chain Stitch/Cover stitch Looper (Brown) 1 Thread the chain stitch/cover stitch looper as indicated 1~11. 2 3 4 10 Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs. 5 11 6 9 7 8 1 Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated.
Turn the hand wheel toward you until the chain stitch looper extends out 10mm from the needle plate edge. 4 Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4~11. 5 Note: Use the tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper. Place the thread with the point of the tweezers through threading guide 4. Place the thread with the point of the tweezers through the front slot of threading guide 5.
Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1. 1 2 Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated. 2 While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3. 3 3 Continue to thread points 4~8.
Thread the eye of the right needle 9. Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory case will make needle eye threading easy. The position of the thread must be behind the thread guide. Draw about 10cm(4 inches) of thread through needle eye towards the rear of machine. 9 Place the thread to the back, under the presser foot. 5) Threading the Chain Stitch Needle (Orange) (D on needle clamp) Thread the left needle as indicated 1~9. 1 2 3 Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs.
While holding thread with fingers, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3. 3 3 Continue to thread points 4~8. Note: Slip thread into the middle slot of the thread guide 5 and into the slot of take-up lever cover 6. Then continue by slipping thread into the middle slot of the thread guides 7 and 8. 7 6 Note: For 4 thread overlock left needle: Use needle A.
6) Threading the Cover Stitch Needles (1) Threading the Cover Stitch Left Needle (Orange) (C on needle clamp) 1 Thread the cover stitch left / chain stitch needle as indicated 1~9. 2 3 6 7 Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs. 8 5 4 9 Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated.
Continue to thread points 4~8. Note: Slide thread into front slot on thread guide 5 and slot of take-up lever cover 6. Then slip thread into left slots of thread guides 7 and 8. 7 6 4 8 5 Before threading eye of needle, make sure thread is in front of thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 9 Thread the eye of the left needle 9. Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory case will make needle eye threading easy. 9 Draw about 10cm (4 inches) of thread through needle eye to hang free.
Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1. 1 Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated. 2 2 While holding thread with fingers, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3. 3 3 Continue to thread points 4~8.
Thread the eye of the middle needle 9. Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory case will make needle eye threading easy. Draw about 10cm (4 inches) of thread through needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9 Place the thread to the back, under the presser foot. (3) Threading the Cover Stitch Right Needle (Green) (E on needle clamp) 1 Thread the cover stitch right needle as indicated 1-9. 2 3 6 7 Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs.
While holding thread with fingers, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3. 3 3 Continue to thread points 4~8. Note: Slip thread into the rear slot on thread guides 5. Slip the thread into the slot of the Take-up Lever Cover 6. Slip the thread into the right slots for thread guides 7 and 8.
13. HOW TO CHANGE THREADS: TIE ON METHOD To change thread type or color, clip thread near the spool. Place new thread on stand. Tie new thread and old thread ends together with a square knot. Clip thread tails to 2~3cm (1 inch) length. If clipped too short, threads may come untied. Firmly pull both thread to test knot security. Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release Tension discs. Pull the threads through the machine one at a time.
14. HOW TO ADJUST THE STITCH LENGTH The stitch length dial should be set on the N setting for most sewing conditions. 4 3 Adjust the stitch length to N~ 4 when sewing heavy weight fabrics. N Adjust the stitch length to 2~N when sewing lightweight fabrics to obtain excellent seams without puckering. 2 15. HOW TO ADJUST THE SEAM WIDTH Overedge seam width can be achieved by repositioning the needle position and also with the width adjustment knob.
Width adjustment knob As shown on the illustration, turn the dial counter clockwise to increase width of cutting, and clockwise to decrease width of cutting. 5.5 N 6.5 16. HOW TO ADJUST THE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE The presser foot pressure of this machine is pre-adjusted at the factory to suit the sewing of medium weight fabrics. 5 Most of the materials do not require adjustment of presser foot pressure.
17. DIFFERENTIAL FEED Differential feed is a system which "stretches" or "gathers" the fabric, when the amount of feed of front feed dogs in relation to the rear feed dogs is changed. 2.0 1.5 The differential feed ratio ranges from 1:0.6~1:2.0. Adjustment is made by means of the differential feed adjusting dial pictured at right. N Use of differential feed is very effective in overedging stretch fabrics and fabrics cut on the bias. 0.8 0.
Stretch Overedge Stretch overedge is ideal for sewing decorative collars, sleeves, skirt hems, etc. on loosely knit and woven fabrics. To set the differential feed adjusting dial for stretch Set differential feed adjusting lever knob above setting "N". 2.0 1.5 N 0.8 0.6 To sew a seam, apply gentle tension to the fabric by holding the seam lightly in front and back of the presser foot.
18. HOW TO DISENGAGE MOVABLE UPPER KNIFE Caution: Be sure to turn off power switch. To place movable knife in nonworking position 1 Open looper cover (page 12). 2 Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as it will go. Turn the holder toward counter clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position. To place movable knife in working position Open looper cover. 1 Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as it will go.
19. TO CONVERT UPPER LOOPER TO SPREADER Caution: Be sure to turn off power switch. When not threading the upper looper, the spreader must be engaged into the upper looper eye. To Use the Spreader To engage the spreader, raise the white handle on the spreader to insert the tip into the eye of upper looper. When using the upper looper, the spreader must be disengaged. To Disengage to Upper Looper To disengage the spreader, lower the white handle on the spreader.
20. STANDARD OVEREDGE AND ROLLED HEM STITCHING To Sew Standard Overedge Set seam width finger knob to N to move seam width finger to standard overedge sewing position. Note: Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far as it will go in the direction of setting N. N R To Sew Rolled Hem Set seam width finger knob to R to retract the seam width finger and set it for rolled hem. Note: Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far as it will go in the direction of setting R.
21. CHAINING OFF AND TEST SEWING Note: The following instructions do not apply to cover stitch. For instructions on cover stitch, see page 49 "How to Sew a Cover Stitch." When the machine is completely threaded, bring all of the threads across the needle plate and slightly to the left under the presser foot. Hold the threads and apply a slight tension. Turn the hand wheel toward you 2 or 3 complete turns to start the thread chain. Lower presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter.
22. SETTINGS AND SEWING ATD:D 1) Double Chain stitch NEEDLE POSITION Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables: 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fibre content of thread SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R 2~4 STITCH LENGTH C DRIVING CULTCH POSITION * Stitch length for double chain stitch should be set at over 2mm.
How to Sew The double chain stitch is sewn with 2 threads, one needle and one looper. Normally, the machine trims the fabric edge while the seam is being sewn. However, a chain stitch seam can be placed at a desired distance from edge of fabric by putting the knife in a nonworking position, disengaging the upper looper and installing the chain stitch seam guide plate (A) (B) Caution: Be sure to turn off the power switch.
2) 2-thread Wrapped Edge Overlock NEEDLE POSITION Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD).
3) 2-thread Overedge ATD:E Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables: 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fibre content of thread NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB N STITCH LENGTH 2~4 SPREADER USE * See page 36 for instructions on converting upper looper to spreader.
4) 3-thread Overlock Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD).
5) 3-thread Flatlock ATD:F Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD).
6) 3-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch ATD:G Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD).
7) 4-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch ATD:A Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD).
8) 4-thread Safety Stitch ATD:I Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD).
9) 5-thread Safety Stitch ATD:B Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD).
23. HOW TO SEW A COVER STITCH This machine can produce a 3-thread 5.6 mm wide bottom cover stitch. The cover stitch can be used for covering, binding or top-stitching necklines and for hemming the bottom, of T-shirts and sweat suits, etc. in addition to flat joining seams (plain seaming). The cover stitch is most suitable for stretchy fabrics such as knit.
Additional Information About Cover Stitch Start and end of sewing Note: Follow the instructions given below when sewing cover stitches because chaining-off at the end of sewing is not possible. At start of sewing Raise presser foot by lowering the presser bar lifter. Place material under presser foot behind the needle. Lower presser foot by raising the presser bar lifter. Note: When you start to sew from the middle of the fabric, place the fabric at the desired starting point of sewing.
2-Thread Cover Stitch Suggested Tension Settings NEEDLE POSITION Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD).
3-Thread Cover Stitch Suggested Tension Settings ATD:J Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD).
Securing the seam end Since the seams formed by cover stitch unravel when the looper thread is pulled out at the end of sewing, secure the seam end in the following manner. When sewing through to the edge of fabric, among the threads coming out of the fabric edge, knot the needle threads (2 or 3 threads) together first, as shown on the illustration. Then, tie these threads with the looper threads.
24. HOW TO SEW A ROLLED HEM This machine can sew four types of rolled hems. Rolled hemming is done by rolling and overedging the fabric edge. Light weight fabrics such as lawn, voile, organdy, crepe, etc. perform the best. Rolled hemming is not suited for heavy or stiff fabrics. NOTE: Rolled hemming can only be performed with the overedge right needle. Machine Set up Caution: Be sure to turn off power switch. R Remove the overedge left needle, chain stitch needle and cover stitch needle(s).
Note: For a beautiful rolled hem thread the upper looper with wooly nylon and the needle and lower looper with lightweight regular thread. NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R STITCH LENGTH 1~2 DRIVING CLUTCH POSITION L Upper looper thread 1) 3-thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching Correct Balance Needle thread Lower looper thread Set auto tension dial to A as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
Note: For a beautiful rolled hem thread the lower looper with wooly nylon and the needle with lightweight regular thread. NEEDLE POSITION Convert upper looper to spreader. (See page 36) SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R STITCH LENGTH 1~2 SPREADER USE Lower looper thread 3) 2-thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching Correct Balance Set auto tension dial to E as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
Additional Information About Rolled Hemming Hold the thread chain when you begin sewing to keep it from curling into the seam. Place a slight tension on the material in the sewing direction and a finer seam finish can be obtained. The minimum overedge stitch width that can be obtained for rolled hemming is approximately 1.5 mm (1/16 inch) since the cutting width cannot be set below 3.5 mm (9/64 inch). To Secure the Rolled Hem Thread Chain Apply a small drop of liquid seam sealant to the end of the seam.
25. STITCH VARIATIONS AND SEWING TECHNIQUES How to Sew a Flatlock Decorative Seam A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the tension of the 2-thread or 3-thread overlock stitch, sewing the seam, and then pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam. The flatlock stitch can be used as a construction and decorative stitch or for ornamentation only. 1) Machine Set Up Use either overedge right needle or overedge left needle.
(3) Decorative Flatlocking Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking position (page 35). The fabric is not trimmed on this stitch. 1 2 Fold fabric wrong sides together. Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with part of the stitch extending off the fabric. Pull on opposite sides of the stitch to flatten. (4) Additional Information About Flatlocking The tensions must be correctly fine tuned for the fabric to pull flat. The upper looper thread is the prominent thread in the flatlock stitch.
How to Sew an Overlock Blind Hem The excess fabric is trimmed and the hem is sewn and the raw edges are overlocked in one operation. The overlock blind hem is best suited for sewing knit wear. It provides a durable finish that is almost invisible. Use overedge right needle and adjust machine for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch. (See page 43) Note: The three-thread flatlock stitch can also be used.
Fold the fabric with the wrong sides together and sew. Press the pin tucks in the same direction. Turning Square Corners (1) Outside Corner Cutting line Cut out approximately 2cm (51/64 inch) from the corner, in line with the overedge seam edge. A Sew one stitch beyond point (A) and stop. 2 cm Raise needle and presser foot. 2 cm Pull the fabric to the rear of the machine just enough to release the thread caught on the finger of the needle plate. Note: Presser foot has been removed to show detail.
(2) Inside Corner Cut inside corner up to seam line as shown Seam line Cut Sew along seam line. Sew up to end of fold. (Leave needle in fabric) Raise presser foot. (Leave needle in fabric) Needle position Spread fold and re-fold so that seam line is straight. Pin Placement Seam line Insert pins to the left of the presser foot. The pins will be easy to remove and are away from the cutting action of the knives. Caution: Sewing over pins will damage and /or destroy the cutting edge of the knives.
How to Reinforce a Seam Inserting twill tape while overedge sewing will stabilize the seam. Insert the tape through the hole in the front of the foot. Position the tape under the foot to the back of the machine and sew the garment seam. The tape is attached as the seam is sewn. Braiding by Chaining off Place the movable upper knife in nonworking position. Insert filler cord such as yarn or twill type through the hole in the front of the foot.
26. MACHINE MAINTENANCE An overlock machine requires more maintenance than a conventional machine for two reasons: 1) A lot of lint is produced due to the cutting action of the knives. 2) An overlock runs at a very high speed and needs to be oiled frequently to lubricate the internal working parts. Cleaning the Machine Danger: Before cleaning your machine, disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle. Clean the lint from the looper and knife area often with a dry lint brush.
How to Replace the Moveable Upper Knife Danger: Before replacing the moveable upper knife, disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle. a The moveable upper knife should be changed when it becomes dull. b The moveable upper knife can be replaced according to the directions provided, however if there are any difficulties experienced, consult your Singer representative to make the replacement. 0.5~1mm c Be sure that the power line plug is disconnected from the electric source.
How to Exchange Light Bulb Danger: Always unplug before re-lamping. Light cover screw Light bulb is available at your Singer shop. Take old bulb to the Singer shop and ask for the same bulb. If voltage indicated on the electrical rating plate of your machine is 120V, ask for light bulb conforming to following specification.
27. OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES The following optional presser feet specially prepared for this machine are available at extra-charge. Note: Do not use presser foot made for other machines. Use of such presser foot may result in interference with the needle and knife and can be hazardous. A The snap-on type presser foot of this machine permits easy removal and replacement. C Caution: Be sure to disconnect the power line plug or turn off the power switch when changing the presser foot.
Optional Presser Feet 1) Elastic Foot This foot is used for attaching elastic tape to the garment and the amount of contraction of the elastic tape can be adjusted as required. 2) Blind Hem Foot This foot is for sewing cuffs on knit fabrics, skirt and trouser seams where seam should not be visible. 3) Shirring Foot This foot is most suited for gathering when sewing tiered skirts, yokes, cuffs and frills on skirts, etc.
28. TROUBLESHOOTING CHART Problem Solution Page Fabric does not feed well - Lengthen stitch length. - Increase presser foot pressure for heavy weight fabric. - Decrease presser foot pressure for lightweight fabric. 31 32 32 Needle breaks - Insert needle correctly. - Do not pull fabric while sewing. - Tighten needle set screw. - Use a larger needle on heavy fabrics. 15 38 15 15 Thread breaks - Check threading. - Check for tangled or caught thread. - Insert needle correctly.
29. RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CLOTH, THREAD AND NEEDLE Type of Fabric Type of Thread Needle Singer Cat. #2022 WOVEN Lightweight Lawn, Organdy, Voile, Crepe, etc.
30. SPECIFICATION Item Specification Sewing speed 1,300 spm maximum Stitch length (feed amount) 1~4 mm (standard: rolled hemming 1-2, ordinary overedge N=2.5) Differential feed ratio 1:0.6 ~ 1:2 (with differential feed machine) Overedge stitch width Rolled hemming 1.5 mm, ordinary overedge 3.0 ~ 9.8 mm (Standard 4 mm) Cover stitch needle gauge Two needles: 2.8 mm (narrow), 5.6 mm (wide) Triple needles: 5.6 mm Needle bar stroke 27 mm Pressure foot rise 4.
Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National legislation relating to electrical /electronic products. If in doubt please contact your retailer for guidance.
G5P21
SINGER® PROFESSIONAL 5™ Overlock Workbook
Congratulations on the purchase of your new SINGER® PROFESSIONAL 5™ Overlock Machine! The SINGER PROFESSIONAL 5 (14T968DC) Overlock Machine is a time saving innovation that provides professional seams, seam finishes, and creative stitch capabilities. Sew one-of-kind projects with the special effects of decorative stitching, such as Flatlocking, Chainstitching and Rolled Hemming. The overlock works side by side with your conventional sewing machine and adds new creative possiblities to your sewing projects.
Table of Contents Chapter 1 Double Chain Stitch Chapter 2 Two-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock (narrow and wide) Chapter 3 Two-Thread Overedge (narrow and wide) Chapter 4 Three-Thread Overlock (narrow, wide, and wide with decorative threads) Chapter 5 Three-Thread Flatlock (narrow and wide) Chapter 6 Three-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch Chapter 7 Four-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch Chapter 8 Four-Thread Safety Stitch Chapter 9 Five-Thread Safety Stitch Wide Chapter 10 Five-T
Chapter 1: Double Chain Stitch
Double Chain Stitch This stitch is suitable for straight seams. It also can be used for a decorative chainstitch topstitching effect. The Middle Cover needle and the Chainstitch Looper are used. Decorative thread can be placed in the Chainstitch Looper, the needle, or in both to create various effects.
Needle: Set at:: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “D” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” (Blue) Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Right Needle “B” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Upper Looper Looper Disengaged and Not Threaded Spreader Not Engaged Lower Looper Unthreaded Chainstitch Looper (Brown) Threaded Upper Knife Not Used Seam Guide Plate Inst
Double Chain Stitch Turn Auto Tension Dial to “D”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “N”. Disengage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder counter clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Place Stitch Finger to “R”.
Install the Seam Guide Plate. The Seam Guide Plate provides a flat surface for the fabric and seam guides. It can only be used when the knife and the lower looper are disengaged. The Seam Guide Plate is used when sewing the Chainstitch, Cover Stitch and the Triple Cover Stitch. 1. Open looper cover. 2. Remove Knife Cover by pulling it slightly towards you. 3. Slide the Seam Guide Plate into place. Disengage Upper Looper. By disengaging the Upper Looper, the looper no longer moves when sewing.
Thread Chainstitch Looper with a decorative thread 1. Raise the Presser foot to release the tension disks. Pass the thread from the back to the front through the thread guide . 2. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull thread along the right side of the button, as illustrated. 3. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks.
4. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the Chainstitch Looper extends out 10mm (approximately ½”) from the needle plate edge. 5. Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4-11. Use the tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper. 6. Place the thread through threading guide 7. Continue threading guides , , and and . 8. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper.
Thread Middle Cover Stitch Needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Cover Stitch Middle/Chain Stitch needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp for the Cover Stitch or Chainstitch. 6 7 4 8 5 7. Thread the eye of the Middle Cover Needle . 8.
Fuse a layer of fabric to a lightweight batting. Fuse a fabric backing to the other side of the batting, to create a quilted piece of fabric. Using a rinse-away fabric marking pen draw a design lines on the wrong side of the fabric. ntle soft ge Make radual g st. turns; ork be w s e v cur g makin . id o v A s corner sharp Lift the Presser Foot to the heightest position. Position the fabric right side down. Align the needle with one of the lines drawn. Lower the Presser Foot and sew.
When sewing the Double Chainstitch, it is necessary to have fabric under the needle. Avoid sewing off the fabric. Continue sewing, following the drawn marking. To remove fabric, gently turn handwheel to loosen threads. Turn fabric over to see the decorative stitching.
Chapter 2: Two-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock (narrow and wide)
Two-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock (narrow) The Two-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock provides an elegant fine finish to lightweight fabrics. When using clear threads in conjunction with the Two-Thread stitch, the fabric appears to have an invisible edge. This gives a couture effect and looks beautiful on finer fabrics. The Two-Thread Stitch requires the lower looper thread and one overlock needle thread. The lower looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “D” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Right Needle (Blue) “B” Upper Looper Threaded Looper Engaged and Not Threaded Spreader Engaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Upper Knife Not Threaded Engaged Seam Guide Plate Not Inst
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “D”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “2”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder toward clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded, it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Engage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged, but not threaded then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread needs to wrap around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7.
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever Thread Right Overedge needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension discs. Thread the right needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide .
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 6 4. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 5.
Align two pieces of lightweight fabric, right sides together so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew. Press seam to one side.
Two-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock (wide) The Two-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock (wide) has the same set up as the TwoThread Wrapped Edge Overlock (narrow) Stitch. The only exception is the Right Overedge Needle is now unthreaded and removed and the Left Overedge Needle is threaded. By using the left needle the stitch becomes wider.
Thread Left Overedge needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as indicated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Overedge needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Align one piece of medium weight fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew. .
Chapter 3: Two-Thread Overedge (narrow and wide)
Two-Thread Overedge (narrow) This stitch is used as a lightweight seam finish or a lightweight seam. When creating a seam finish, less thread is used and the thread does not imprint on the right side of the fabric when pressed. The stitch can also used for seaming. The stitch creates less bulky seams, which is ideal for sheer or lace fabrics. The Two-Thread Overlock stitch requires the lower looper thread and one overlock needle thread. There are 2 different ways to set up for a Two-Thread Overlock stitch.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “E” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Threaded Upper Looper Looper Engaged and Not Threaded Spreader Engaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Upper Knife Not Threaded Engaged Seam Guide Plate Not In
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “E”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “2”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded, it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Engage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged but not threaded, then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader, the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½”) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7.
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader Lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever Thread Right Overedge needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the right needle as indicated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide .
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 6 4. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 5.
Join two pieces of medium weight fabric, right sides together with a conventional sewing machine straight stitch. Finsh the edges of both fabric pieces by aligning the fabric edge so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew. Press seam allowance to one side.
Two-Thread Overedge (wide) The Two-Thread Overedge (wide) is a good choice when sewing linens and wools. The Two-Thread Overedge (wide) has the same set up as the Two-Thread Overedge (narrow) Stitch. The only exception is the Right Overedge Needle is now unthreaded and removed and the Left Overedge Needle is threaded. By using the left needle the stitch becomes wider.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “E” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” (Orange) Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” (Blue) Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” (Green) Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” (Orange) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Unthreaded and Remove Needle Upper Looper (Green) Engage Looper and Not Threaded Spreader Engaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Upper Knife Not Th
Thread Left Overedge needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Overedge Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Align one piece of medium weight fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew. Align a second piece of medium wieght fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew. Place the two fabrics, right sides together. Using a conventional sewing machine, sew a straight stitch with a ⅝ inch seam. Press the seam open.
Chapter 4: Three-Thread Overlock (narrow, wide, and wide with decorative threads)
Three-Thread Overlock (narrow) The Three-Thread Overlock Stitch is the most commonly used stitch because of its versatility. It provides a wonderful professional seam finish to woven fabrics. It is beneficial in preventing loosely woven fabrics from unraveling. In addition, the Three-Thread Overlock Stitch offers unlimited decorative capabilities. It is recommended for finishing seams but not reinforcing the seam. Use the conventional sewing machine’s straight stitch to reinforce the seam.
Needle: Set-up: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “A” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Upper Looper (Green) Threaded Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Not Used Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate Unthreaded Engaged Not Ins
The Three-Thread Overlock makes a great edge finish to a garment’s facing.
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “A”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “2”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Disengage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged but not threaded, then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader, the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½”) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides 4-9.
7. Thread the hole in the Upper Looper from front to back . Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate. Thread Lower Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as indicated 1-10. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide.
4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½”) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7. Place the thread slighty from left and to the right of threading guide . 8. Place the thread slightly from the front and to the back of threading guide . 9. Place the thread through , and .
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader Lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever NOTE: Make sure the Upper Looper thread is behind the Lower Looper thread.
Thread Right Overedge needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the right needle as indicated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 8. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 9. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 10. Place the thread to the back, under the Presser Foot.
Align one piece of medium weight fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew. Align a second piece of medium weight fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Place the two fabrics, right sides together. Using a conventional sewing machine, sew a straight stitch with a ⅝ inch seam. Press the seam open.
Three-Thread Overlock (wide) The Three-Thread Overedge (wide) has the same set up as the Three-Thread Overedge (narrow) Stitch. The only exceptions are the Right Overedge Needle is now unthreaded and removed and the Left Overedge Needle is threaded. By using the left needle the stitch becomes wider. The other exception is the Auto Tension Dial is turned to “B”.
Needle: Set-up: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “B” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” (Orange) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Upper Looper (Green) Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Disengaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Unthreaded Upper Knife Engaged Seam Guide Plat
Thread Left Overedge needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide. 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the left needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “B”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “2”. Align one piece of medium weight fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew.
Three-Thread Overedge (wide with decorative thread) Using decorative threads can duplicate the look of fine braids and bindings often found only in ready-to-wear. It is easy to embellish sewing projects with decorative thread. Threads such as texturized nylon thread, crochet thread, pearl cotton, yarn and more easily slide through the eye of the looper. Select soft, flexible threads for best results.
Needle: Set-up: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “B” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” (Orange) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Upper Looper (Green) Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Disengaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Unthreaded Upper Knife Engaged Seam Guide Plat
Thread Upper Looper with decorative thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide. 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides 4-9. 7. Thread the hole in the Upper Looper from front to back . Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate.
Thread Lower Looper with decorative overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as illustrated 1-10. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 5.
6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7. Place the thread slighty from left and to the right of threading guide . 8. Place the thread slightly from the front and to the back of threading guide . 9. Place the thread through , ,and . 10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D).
Thread Overedge Left needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Overedge Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Align double-sided quilted fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew.
Chapter 5: Three-Thread Flatlock (narrow and wide)
Three-Thread Flatlock Narrow The Flatlock Stitch is used decoratively to achieve the look of applied trim on a garment, craft or home decorator projects. Special decorative threads are used for a textured and dramatic embellishment effect. The Flatlock Stitch can also be used to serge non-bulky seams. The Flatlock Stitch is sewn with one needle and the upper and lower loopers. Both sides of the Flatlocking Stitch are considered decorative.
Needle: Set Up: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “F” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Upper Looper (Green) Threaded Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Disengaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Unthreaded Upper Knife Engaged Seam Guide Plate N
The Flatlock stitch, with fabric’s right sides together, form a ladder stitch. A ribbon can then be woven by hand in and out of the stitches. The ladder stitch is ideal for joining laces together, as seen in heirloom sewing. Another idea for the ladder stitch is to use decorative thread through the needle to form a bold embellishment to projects.
Three-Thread Flatlock (narrow) page 4
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “F”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “2”. Engage Upper Knife.The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Disengage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged but not threaded then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides 4-9.
7. Thread the hole in the Upper Looper from front to back . Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate. Thread Lower Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser foot to release the Tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as illustrated 1-10. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide.
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever NOTE: Make sure the Upper Looper thread is behind the Lower Looper thread.
Thread Right Overedge needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the right needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 8. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 9. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 10. Place the thread to the back, under the Presser Foot.
Fold T-shirt interlock fabric wrong sides together lengthwise. Align the fabric so that the fabric’s fold is not being trimmed by the knife. Sew. Gently pull the fabric flat and press. Hint: If the fabric is not laying flat, align the fabric farther to the left of the knife.
Three-Thread Flatlock (wide) The Three-Thread Flatlock (wide) has the same set up as the Three-Thread Flatlock (narrow) Stitch. The only exception is the Right Overedge Needle is now unthreaded and removed and the Left Overedge Needle is threaded. By using the left needle, the stitch becomes wider.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “F” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Overedge Left Needle “A” (Orange) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” Unthreaded and Remove Needle Upper Looper (Green) Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Disengage Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Unthreaded Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate Engaged
Left Overedge Needle Thread Upper Looper Thread Right Overedge Needle Thread Lower Looper Thread Decorative Ladder Effect (wide) Fabric Right Sides Together Decorative Loop Effect (wide) Fabric Wrong Sides Together Three-Thread Flatlock (wide) page 3
Thread Left Overlock needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the left needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Fold sweatshirt fabric wrong sides together, lengthwise. Align the fabric so that the fabric’s fold is not being trimmed by the knife. Sew. Gently pull the fabric flat and press. Hint: If the fabric is not laying flat, align the fabric farther to the left of the knife.
Chapter 6: Three-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch
Three-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch This stitch stretches with the fabric, the seam will not break when the fabric is stretched. It is ideal for super-stretch knits like those used on swimwear or athlete clothing. This stitch uses two needles and one looper.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “G” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Not Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Not Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Not Threaded Overedge Left Needle “A” (Orange) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Threaded Upper Looper (Green) Looper Engaged and Not Threaded Spreader Engaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Upper Looper Clutch Upper Knife Not Threaded “L” Engaged Seam Guide Plate Not Installed Use Knife Guide Se
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “G”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “2”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Engage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged, but not threaded then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7.
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever Thread Right Overedge needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the right needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide .
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 6 4. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 5.
Thread Left Overedge needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as indicated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Overedge Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Align two pieces of fabric, right sides together so that that the knife just slightly trims the fabric’s edges. Sew.
Chapter 7: Four-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch
Four-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch The Four-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch is stronger than the Three-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch. The additional thread provides added strength to the seam and is good choice for knits as well as wovens. This stitch works well when applying ribbing to a garment. Ribbing is often seen on cuffs, collars and waistbands of active wear. This stitch requires two needle threads and two looper threads.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “A” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Not Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Not Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Not Threaded Overedge Left Needle “A” (Orange) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Threaded Upper Looper (Green) Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Disengaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Not Threaded Upper Looper Clutch “L” Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate Engaged Not Installed Use Knife Guide S
Sweatshirt sample Four-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch page 3
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “A”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “N”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded, it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Disengage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged but not threaded then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides 4-9.
7. Thread the hole in the Upper Looper from front to back . Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate. Thread Lower Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the Tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as illustrated 1-10. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide Four-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch page 9 .
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7.
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever NOTE: Make sure the Upper Looper thread is behind the Lower Looper thread. Thread Right Overedge needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the right needle as illustrated 1-9. 2.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 6 4. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 5.
Thread Left Overlock needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread towards the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Overedge Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Fold ribbing lengthwise. Place ribbing on top of fleece. Align the fabric so that the knife just slightly trims both the ribbing and fleece fabric edges. Sew, stretching the ribbing as needed.
Chapter 8: Four-Thread Safety Stitch
Four-Thread Safety Stitch This stitch is an alternative to the Five-Thread Safety Stitch. It offers the same type of Two-Thread Chainstitch. However the Three-Thread Overlock is now replaced by a Two-Thread Overedge finish. The Four-Thread Safety Stitch is appropriately used when sewing a medium weight woven fabric. Because there is one less thread being used, the stitch is less bulky. However, it is still strong enough not to require straight stitch reinforcement from a conventional sewing machine.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” (Orange) “I” Not Threaded Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Not Threaded Overedge Left Needle “A” Not Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Threaded Upper Looper Looper Engaged and Not Threaded Spreader Engaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Threaded Upper Looper Clutch Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate “L” Engaged Not Installed Seam Width Dial “N” Stitch Lengt
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “I”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “N”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper, causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Engage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged, but not threaded then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7.
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever Thread Chainstitch Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Pass the thread from the back to the front through the thread guide .
2. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull thread along the right side of the button, as illustrated. 3. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 4. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the Chainstitch Looper extends out 10mm (approximately ½”) from the needle plate edge. 5. Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4-11.
6. Place the thread through threading guide 7. Continue threading guides , , and and . . 8. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper. Position the thread into the V cutout (B) on the threader. Firmly hold the thread tail with your left hand and pull threader lever (C) up into place (D). Gently pull 5-6” of thread to the back of the machine. “V” cutout Threader lever Thread Right Overedge with regular overlock thread. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 6 4. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 5.
Thread Middle Cover Stitch with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Cover Stitch Middle/Chain Stitch needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp for the Cover Stitch or Chainstitch. 6 7 4 8 5 7. Thread the eye of the middle needle . 8.
Place two pieces of broadcloth right sides together. Align the fabric so that that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew.
Chapter 9: Five-Thread Safety Stitch Wide
Five-Thread Safety Stitch Wide This stitch is a combination of a Two-Thread Chainstitch and a Three-Thread Overlock Stitch. It is suitable for woven fabrics and provides a durable seam for heavy weight fabrics such as denim and terrycloth. Using this strong safety stitch eliminates the need to reinforce the seam with a conventional sewing machine straight stitch. The Presser Foot Pressure Adjusting Dial makes it simple to sew on all weights of fabrics. The Five-Thread Safety Stitch can have a width of 2.
Needles: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “B” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Not Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” (Orange) Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Threaded Not Threaded Overedge Left Needle “A” (Blue) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” Not Threaded Upper Looper (Green) Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Not Used Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Threaded Upper Looper Clutch “L” Upper Knife Engaged Seam Guide Plate Not Installed Seam Width Dial “N” Stitch L
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “B”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “N”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded, it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Disengage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged but not threaded, then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides 4-9.
7. Thread the hole in the Upper Looper from front to back . Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate. Thread Lower Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as illustrated 1-10. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide.
4. While holding the thread, firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7. Place the thread slighty from left and to the right of threading guide . 8. Place the thread slightly from the front and to the back of threading guide . 9. Place the thread through , and .
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever NOTE: Make sure the Upper Looper thread is behind the Lower Looper thread.
Thread Chainstitch Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Pass the thread from the back to the front through the thread guide . 2.Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 3. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks.
4. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the Chainstitch Looper extends out 10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 5. Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4-11. Use the tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper. 6. Place the thread through threading guides 7. Continue threading guides , , and and . 8. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper.
Thread Left Overlock needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the foward slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the left slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Overedge Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Thread Middle Cover stitch needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Cover Stitch Middle/Chain Stitch needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp for the Cover Stitch or Chainstitch. 7. Thread the eye of the middle needle . 8.
Place two pieces of home decorative fabric, right sides together. Align the fabric so that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew.
Chapter 10: Five-Thread Safety Stitch Narrow
Five-Thread Safety Stitch Narrow This stitch is a combination of a Two-Thread Chainstitch and a Three-Thread Overlock Stitch. It is suitable for woven fabrics and provides a durable seam for heavy weight fabrics such as denim and terrycloth. Using this strong and stable safety stitch eliminates the need to reinforce the seam with a conventional sewing machine straight stitch. The Pressure Adjusting Dial makes it simple to sew on all weights of fabrics. The Five-Thread Safety Stitch can have a width of 2.
Needles: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” “A” Not Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” (Orange) Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Not Threaded Overedge Left Needle “A” Not Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Threaded Upper Looper (Green) Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Disengaged Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Threaded Upper Looper Clutch Upper Knife “L” Engaged Seam Guide Plate Not Installed Use Knife Cover Seam W
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “A”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “N”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “N”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Disengage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged, but not threaded then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is usually used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides 4-9.
7. Thread the hole in the Upper Looper from front to back . Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate. Thread Lower Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the Tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as illustrated 1-10. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide.
4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7. Place the thread slighty from left and to the right of threading guide . 8. Place the thread slightly from the front and to the back of threading guide . 9. Place the thread through , and .
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever NOTE: Make sure the Upper Looper thread is behind the Lower Looper thread.
Thread Chainstitch Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Pass the thread from the back to the front through the thread guide . 2.Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 3. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
4. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the Chainstitch Looper extends out 10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 5. Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4-11. Use the tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper. 6. Place the thread through threading guide 7. Continue threading guides , , and and . . 8. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper.
Thread Right Overedge needle with regualar overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the right needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide .
5. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 6. Thread the eye of the Right Overedge Needle . Thread Middle Cover stitch needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Cover Stitch Middle/Chain Stitch needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide .
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and .
6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp for the Cover Stitch or Chainstitch. 7. Thread the eye of the middle needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9. Place the thread to the back, under the Presser Foot. Lower foot and sew.
Place two pieces of terrycloth right sides together. Align the fabric so that that the knife just slightly trims the fabric edge. Sew.
Chapter 11: Cover Hem (Cover Stitch) Narrow
Cover Hem Narrow This professional Cover Hem is a necessary requirement for today’s sewing. The stitch is often seen in ready-to-wear garments. Two needles create parallel rows of topstitching and one looper sews an edge finish on the underneath side. Depending on which needle position is selected, the width can be 5.6mm wide or 2.8mm wide.
Needles: Set-up: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “K” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” (Orange) Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” (Blue) Threaded Right Cover Stitch “E” Needle Not Threaded Overedge Left “A” Needle Not Threaded Overedge Right “B” Needle Not Threaded Upper Looper (Green) Spreader Lower Looper Looper Disengaged and Not Threaded Not Used Not Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Threaded Upper Looper Clutch “C” Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate Non-working Position Installed Seam Width D
Cover Hem Narrow Turn Auto Tension Dial to “K”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “2.5”. Disengage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder counter clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “R”.
Install the Seam Guide Plate. The Seam Guide Plate provides a flat surface for the fabric and seam guides. It can only be used when the knife and the lower looper are disengaged. The Seam Guide Plate is used when sewing the Chainstitch, Cover Stitch and the Triple Cover Stitch. 1. Open looper cover. 2. Remove Knife Cover by pulling it toward you. 3. Slide the Seam Guide Plate into place. Disengage Upper Looper. By disengaging the Upper Looper, the looper no longer moves when sewing. It is nonoperative.
Thread Chainstitch Looper with a regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Pass the thread from the back to the front through the thread guide . 2. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 3. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
4. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the Chainstitch Looper extends out 10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 5. Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4-11. Use the tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper. 6. Place the thread through threading guides 7. Continue threading guides , , and and . 8. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper.
Thread Middle Cover needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Cover Stitch Middle/Chain Stitch needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp for the Cover Stitch or Chainstitch. 6 7 4 8 5 7. Thread the eye of the middle needle . 8.
Thread Left Cover Stitch needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the forward slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the left slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Cover Stitch Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Press a 1” hem into a knit fabric. Lift the Presser Foot to the highest position. Position the fabric right side up and under the needles. Align the fabric so that that the fabric fold is 1” to the right of the needles. Use markings on cover for positioning and guiding fabric. Lower the Presser Foot. Turn the handwheel to assist in the stitch forming on the fabric. When sewing the Cover Hem Stitch it is necessary to have fabric under the needles while sewing.
Chapter 12: Cover Hem (Cover Stitch) Wide
Cover Hem Wide This professional Cover Hem stitch is a necessary requirement for today’s sewing. The stitch is often seen in ready-to-wear garments. Two needles create parallel rows of top stitching and one looper sew an edge finish on the underneath side. Depending on which needle position is selected the width can be 5.6mm wide or 2.8 mm wide.
Needle: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” (Orange) “H” Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Not Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” (Green) Threaded Overedge Left Needle “A” (Orange) Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Threaded Upper Looper Spreader Lower Looper Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Upper Looper Clutch Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate Looper Disengaged and Not Threaded Not Used Not Threaded Threaded “C” Non-working Position Installed Seam Width Dial “N”
Double Chain Stitch Turn Auto Tension Dial to “H”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “N”. Disengage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder counter clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “R”.
Install the Seam Guide Plate. The Seam Guide Plate provides a flat surface for the fabric and seam guides. It can only be used when the knife and the lower looper are disengaged. The Seam Guide Plate is used when sewing the Chainstitch, Cover Stitch and the Triple Cover Stitch. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Remove Knife Cover by pulling it toward you. 3. Slide the Seam Guide Plate into place. Disengage Upper Looper. By disengaging the Upper Looper the looper no longer moves when sewing, it is nonoperative.
Thread Chainstitch Looper with a regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Pass the thread from the back to the front through the thread guide . 2.Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 3. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
4. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the Chainstitch Looper extends out 10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 5. Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4-11. Use the tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper. 6. Place the thread through threading guide 7. Continue threading guides , , and and . . 8. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper.
Thread Right Cover Stitch needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Right Cover Stitch Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Thread Left Cover Stitch needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the front slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the left slots of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Cover Stitch Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Press a 1” hem into a knit fabric. Lift the Presser Foot to the highest position. Position the fabric right side up and under the needles. Align the fabric so that that the fabric fold is 1” to the right of the needles. Lower the Presser Foot. Turn the handwheel to assist in the stitch forming on the fabric. When sewing the Cover Hem Stitch it is necessary to have fabric under the needles while sewing. Sew off onto a scrap fabric.
Chapter 13: Triple Cover Hem Stitch
Triple Cover Hem This innovative stitch provides a very wide 5.6 mm professional and creative triple topstitch to sewing projects. Three needles create parallel rows of topstitching and one looper sews an edge finish on the underneath side. This is ideal for heavier fabrics traditionally used in home decorating. It also adds a unique accent for garment construction. In addition to sewing on woven fabrics, the Triple Cover Hem makes a beautiful topstitch and a strong hem on stretch fabrics.
Needles: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “J” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” (Orange) Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” (Blue) Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” (Green) Threaded Upper Looper Spreader Lower Looper Looper Disengaged and Not Threaded Not Used Not Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Threaded Upper Looper Clutch “C” Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate Non-working Position Installed Seam Width Dial “N” Stitch Length Dial “N” Presser Foot Pressure “N” Differential Feed Dial
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “J”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “N”. Disengage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder counter clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “R”.
Install the Seam Guide Plate. The Seam Guide Plate provides a flat surface for the fabric and seam guides. It can only be used when the knife and the lower looper are disengaged. The Seam Guide Plate is used when sewing the Chainstitch, Cover Stitch and the Triple Cover Stitch. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Remove Knife Cover by pulling it toward you. 3. Slide the Seam Guide Plate into place. Disengage Upper Looper. By disengaging the Upper Looper the looper no longer moves when sewing. It is nonoperative.
Thread Chainstitch Looper with a regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Pass the thread from the back to the front through the thread guide . 2. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 3. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
4. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the Chainstitch Looper extends out 10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 5. Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4-11. Use the tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper. 6. Place the thread through threading guides 7. Continue threading guides , , and and . . 8. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper.
Thread Right Cover Stitch needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Right Cover Stitch Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Thread Middle Cover needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Cover Stitch Middle/Chain Stitch needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread, firmly pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the middle slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the middle slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp for the Cover Stitch or Chainstitch. 6 7 4 8 5 7. Thread the eye of the middle needle . 8.
Thread Left Cover Stitch needle with regular thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the left needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the forward slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the left slot of the thread guides and . 6. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is in front of the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 7. Thread the eye of the Left Cover Stitch Needle . 8. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 9.
Press a 3” hem into a woven home decorator fabric. Lift the Presser Foot to the highest position. Position the fabric right side up and under the needles. Align the fabric so that that the fabric fold is 1” to the right of the needles. Lower the Presser Foot. Turn the handwheel to assist in the stitch forming on the fabric. When sewing the Triple Hem Stitch it is necessary to have fabric under the needles while sewing.
Chapter 14: Three-Thread Rolled Hem
Three-Thread Rolled Hem The Rolled Hem Stitch is used to finish edges of scarves, ruffles, table linens, and some garments. It is suitable for lightweight to medium weight fabrics, such as sheers, silkies and broadcloth. Beautiful pintucks can be achieved with the rolled hem. They can enhance a yoke, heirloom sewing, wearable art and even home decorating projects. Note: Rolled hemming can only be performed with the Right Overedge needle all other needles must be removed.
Needles: Set at: ATD: Auto Tension Dial “C” Left Cover Stitch Needle “C” Not Threaded Middle Cover Stitch Needle “D” Not Threaded Right Cover Stitch Needle “E” Not Threaded Overedge Left Needle “A” Not Threaded Overedge Right Needle “B” (Blue) Upper Looper (Green) Threaded Looper Engaged and Threaded Spreader Not Used Lower Looper (Red) Threaded Chain Stitch Looper (Brown) Upper Looper Clutch Upper Knife Seam Guide Plate Not Threaded “L” Engaged Not Installed Use Knife Cover Seam Width Di
Turn Auto Tension Dial to “C”. Turn Stitch Length Dial to “1”. Engage Upper Knife. The knife will not trim the fabric when it is disengaged. 1. Open Looper Cover. 2. Pull the movable knife holder (silver screw) to the right as far as it will go. 3. Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position.
Turn Presser Foot Pressure Dial to “N”. Turn Differential Feed Dial to “N”. Turn Seam Width Dial to “N”. Set Stitch Finger to “R”.
Install the Knife Cover. Engage Upper Looper. Engaging the Upper Looper causes the looper to move when sewing. Even though the Upper Looper is not threaded it needs to be engaged. 1. Push the clutch button to the left and down to engage. 2. Turn handwheel.
Disengage Spreader. The Upper Looper has a hole for the thread on the top of the looper. If the stitch requires that the looper be engaged, but not threaded then the Spreader is used. The Spreader simply plugs-in (or closes) the looper’s hole. The Spreader is disengaged when the Upper Looper is engaged/operative and threaded. The Spreader is used with a stitch that requires only one looper thread. With the help of the Spreader the single looper thread wraps around the fabric’s edge. 1.
3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides 4-9.
7. Thread the hole in the Upper Looper from front to back . Pull about 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate. Thread Lower Looper with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the Lower Looper as illustrated 1-10. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide.
4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks. 5. Turn the handwheel toward you until the lower looper extends 5-10mm (approximately ½ inch) from the needle plate edge. 6. Thread the looper area of the machine following the red color coded thread guides 4-10. 7. Place the thread slighty from left and to the right of threading guide . 8. Place the thread slightly from the front and to the back of threading guide . 9. Place the thread through , and .
10. Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 4 inches of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader. Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). “V” cutout Threader Lever NOTE: Make sure the Upper Looper thread is behind the Lower Looper thread.
Thread Right Overedge needle with regular overlock thread. 1. Raise the Presser Foot to release the tension disks. Thread the right needle as illustrated 1-9. 2. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide . 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under the guide. Then pull the thread along the right side of the button as illustrated. 4. While holding the thread firmly, pull the thread between the tension disks.
5. Continue to thread points 4-8. Slip the thread into the rear slot of the thread guide . Go over the take up lever . Continue by slipping the thread into the right slots of the thread guides and . 8. Before threading the eye of the needle, make sure the thread is behind the thread guide located on the bottom of the needle clamp. 9. Draw about 4 inches of the thread through the needle eye towards the back of the machine. 10. Place the thread to the back, under the Presser Foot. Lower foot and sew.
Align a piece of lightweight fabric so that the fabric’s edge is being slightly trimmed by the knife. Sew.
Chapter 15: Additional Presser Feet
BLIND HEM FOOT The Blind Hem Foot is used for hemming skirts, pants and other sewing projects in one easy operation. It is recommended for use on stretch or textured fabrics.
CORDING FOOT The Cording Foot is used for sewing piping (cording) between two layers of fabric in one easy operation.
ELASTIC FOOT The Elastic Foot is used for inserting elastic into a seam. It can be used for swimwear, lingerie and other sewing projects.
BEADING FOOT The Beading Foot is used for sewing on beads, sequins, pearls and thick cord.
TAPING FOOT The Taping Foot is used for inserting a tape into seams that will stretch easily. Inserting the tape will stabilize the seam.
SHIRRING FOOT The Shirring Foot is used for shirring or gathering. Use it on home decorating accessories or clothing. This foot provides best results when used with lightweight and sheer fabrics.
14T968DC
14T968DC 14T968DC SINGER es una marca registrada de The Singer Company Limited o sus filiales. 2008 The Singer Company Limited o sus filiales. Reservados todos los derechos.
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1.Selección de puntadas y tensión automática ...................... ........................................ ...................................................... ..................................................................... ........................................... .......................................................... .................................... .......................... ............................................. ....................... .......................................
1. SELECCIÓN DE PUNTADAS Y TENSIÓN AUTOMÁTICA Esta máquina es capaz de producir varios tipos de puntadas, según la combinación seleccionada de tensión automática, posiciones de la aguja, métodos de enhebrado y el uso del garfio/convertidor.
ATD : seleccionado el ajuste de tensión automática 47 ATD: I 48 ATD: B 48 ATD: A 51 ATD: K 51 ATD: H 52 ATD: J 55 ATD: C 6
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Hilo / tensión correctos: cuando se usa el ajuste de tensión automático (ATD), se programa la tensión correcta automáticamente. A T D S L D F L / C D N N C D 2 N L G 2 N L E 2 N L E 2 N L A N N L B N N L F 2 N L F 2 N L 44 6 G 2 N L 45 7 A N N L 46 8 I N N L 47 9 B N N L 48 10 A N N L 11 K N N C 12 H N N C 13 J N N C 14 C 1 N L 1 Posición de la aguja 39 4.0mm 41 2 6.0mm 41 4.0mm 3 42 6.0mm 42 4.0mm 43 4 6.
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1 18. Selector de la tensión automática 19.
20. 21. 22. 23.
1 2 7 3 2 1 8 5 6 4 9 OFF ON 12
1 2 3 13
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A B C D E C D E D B A B A B E C 15 D
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1 2 3 4 9 5 8 7 6 C L 1 2 2 3 3 17
4 8 9 9 5 8 6 7 1 2 3 4 5 10 9 8 7 6 1 2 2 18
3 3 4 10 5 9 8 7 6 4 8 7 5 10 9 A D B C 19 6
1 2 3 4 10 5 11 6 9 7 8 1 2 2 3 3 20
4 5 9 6 7 8 10 11 A D B C 1 2 3 6 7 8 5 9 21 4
1 2 2 3 3 7 6 4 8 5 9 22
1 2 3 6 7 8 5 4 9 1 2 2 23
3 3 7 6 4 8 5 9 9 24
1 2 3 6 7 8 5 4 9 1 2 2 3 3 25
7 6 4 8 5 9 9 1 2 3 6 7 8 9 26 5 4
1 2 2 3 3 7 6 4 8 5 9 27
9 1 2 3 6 7 8 5 4 9 1 2 2 28
3 3 7 6 4 8 5 9 9 29
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4 3 N 2 31 6.0 mm 4.0 mm 8.8 mm (15/64") (10/64") (11/32") 5 mm 3 mm 7.8 mm (13/64") (1/8") (5/16") 7 mm 5 mm 9.
5 4 N 2 1 32
2.0 1.5 N 0.8 0.6 2.0 1.5 N 0.8 0.
2.0 1.5 N 0.8 0.
1 2 1 2 35
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N R N R 37
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22. AJUSTES Y COSTURA ATD:D La tensión se ajusta automáticamente al seleccionar el tipo de puntada deseado con el selector de tensión automático (ATD). Se puede hacer un ajuste fino de la tensión por medio de las palancas de ajuste fino según las siguientes variables: Poner el selector de tensión automática en la pos. D como se muestra en la imagen y probar a coser con una muestra del tejido.
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La tensión se ajusta automáticamente al seleccionar el tipo de puntada deseado con el selector de tensión automático (ATD). Se puede hacer un ajuste fino de la tensión por medio de las palancas de ajuste fino según las siguientes variables: N 2~4 Poner el selector de tensión automática en la pos. D o G como se muestra en la imagen y probar a coser con una muestra del tejido.
ATD:E La tensión se ajusta automáticamente al seleccionar el tipo de puntada deseado con el selector de tensión automático (ATD). Se puede hacer un ajuste fino de la tensión por medio de las palancas de ajuste fino según las siguientes variables: Poner el selector de tensión automática en la pos. E como se muestra en la imagen y probar a coser con una muestra del tejido.
La tensión se ajusta automáticamente al seleccionar el tipo de puntada deseado con el selector de tensión automático (ATD). Se puede hacer un ajuste fino de la tensión por medio de las palancas de ajuste fino según las siguientes variables: N 2~4 Poner el selector de tensión automática en la pos. A o B como se muestra en la imagen y probar a coser con una muestra del tejido.
ATD:F La tensión se ajusta automáticamente al seleccionar el tipo de puntada deseado con el selector de tensión automático (ATD). Se puede hacer un ajuste fino de la tensión por medio de las palancas de ajuste fino según las siguientes variables: Poner el selector de tensión automática en la pos. F como se muestra en la imagen y probar a coser con una muestra del tejido.
ATD:G Tension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD). Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables: N 2~4 Set auto tension dial to G as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric. When the lower looper thread tension is too loose; -Move the lower looper thread tension fine tuning lever (red) toward a higher position.
ATD:A La tensión se ajusta automáticamente al seleccionar el tipo de puntada deseado con el selector de tensión automático (ATD). Se puede hacer un ajuste fino de la tensión por medio de las palancas de ajuste fino según las siguientes variables: Poner el selector de tensión automática en la pos. A como se muestra en la imagen y probar a coser con una muestra del tejido.
ATD:I La tensión se ajusta automáticamente al seleccionar el tipo de puntada deseado con el selector de tensión automático (ATD). Se puede hacer un ajuste fino de la tensión por medio de las palancas de ajuste fino según las siguientes variables: Poner el selector de tensión automática en la pos. I como se muestra en la imagen y probar a coser con una muestra del tejido.
ATD:B La tensión se ajusta automáticamente al seleccionar el tipo de puntada deseado con el selector de tensión automático (ATD). Se puede hacer un ajuste fino de la tensión por medio de las palancas de ajuste fino según las siguientes variables: Poner el selector de tensión automática en la pos. B como se muestra en la imagen y probar a coser con una muestra del tejido.
C B D A E 2 3 1 25mm ( 1" ) 49 4 5 2 6
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La tensión se ajusta automáticamente al seleccionar el tipo de puntada deseado con el selector de tensión automático (ATD). Se puede hacer un ajuste fino de la tensión por medio de las palancas de ajuste fino según las siguientes variables: R N~4 C ATD:K Poner el selector de tensión automática en la pos. K o H como se muestra en la imagen y probar a coser con una muestra del tejido.
ATD:J La tensión se ajusta automáticamente al seleccionar el tipo de puntada deseado con el selector de tensión automático (ATD). Se puede hacer un ajuste fino de la tensión por medio de las palancas de ajuste fino según las siguientes variables: Poner el selector de tensión automática en la pos. J como se muestra en la imagen y probar a coser con una muestra del tejido.
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N 2 1 54
R 1~2 L Poner el selector de tensión automática en la pos. A como se muestra en la imagen y probar a coser con una muestra del tejido. ATD:A Poner el selector de tensión automática en la pos. C como se muestra en la imagen y probar a coser con una muestra del tejido.
R 1~2 Poner el selector de tensión automática en la pos. E como se muestra en la imagen y probar a coser con una muestra del tejido. ATD:E Poner el selector de tensión automática en la pos. D como se muestra en la imagen y probar a coser con una muestra del tejido.
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1 2 A 59
4 1 2 60
A 2 cm 2 cm A 61
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A B C 64 D
a b 0.
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No utilice los dispositivos eléctricos como residuo municipal, use el servicio de reciclaje. Contacte con su gobierno local para información sobre los sistemas de reciclaje disponibles. Si los dispositivos eléctricos se tiran en vertederos, es posible que sustancias peligrosas se filtren en el agua subterránea y lleguen a la cadena alimenticia dañando la salud y el bienestar. Cuando cambie viejos dispositivos por nuevos, el vendedor está obligado legalmente a quedarse su viejo dispositivo sin ningún cargo.
G5P30
