431 Convertible
Instructions for using Form 30-064 G / 1264 engl.
SLANT-O-MATIC Convertible ..
THE CONVERTIBLE 431 . . . represents the ultimate in sewing machine performance. With the purchase of the new SLANT-O-MATIC, you can take pride in owning the finest sewing machine ever built. You'll marvel at its almost unbe lievable ease of operation . . . the remarkable services it performs. You'll delight in its perfect, beautiful stitching. • World's first convertible with double-easy threading.
OTHER OUTSTANDING FEATURES ARE: • CYLINDER BED simplifies sewing of articles of a curved or cylindrical nature — converts • HINGED FACE PLATE, houses threading chart and swings open for easy access to oiling points. to flat bed with the push of a button. • • BUILT-IN MOTOR with worm wheel drive, no belts PERFECT STITCHING . . . straight and zigzag. when • NEEDLE CLAMP holds one or two sewing excellent heaviest assistance.
SINGER SERVICE Wherever you go you will find expert, dependable SINGER* Service close at hand. SINGER is interested in helping you keep your SINGER Sewing Machine in top running condition. That is why you should always call your SINGER SEWING CENTRE if your machine ever requires adjustment or repair. Only from your SINGER SEWING CENTRE can you obtain the services of a trained SINGER repair man and warranted SINGER* parts.
TO REMOVE AND REPLACE DETACHABLE CLOTH PLATE . \ II To detach cloth plate from machine, press button on machine bed and withdraw plate. Replace cloth plate in same manner, locating two pins in plate with corresponding holes in machine bed. Push cloth plate to right until it snaps in locked position. See pages 81 to 86 for applications of cylinder bed feature.
NEEDLE AND THREAD SELECTION The selection of thread should be based on the fabric to be stitched. The thread should blend with the fabric in colour, fibre and size. Silk and wool fabrics should be stitched with silk thread; cotton fabrics should be stitched with cotton or cotton mercerised thread, etc. The thread must be of a size that will imbed itself into the texture of the fabric. Thread that is too heavy for the fabric will remain on the surface and become weakened by friction and abrasion.
NEEDLES AND THREAD This machine uses needles Catalogue 2020 (15X1). Sizes 9, 11, 14, 16 and 18. For and perfect thread stitching, to select correspond correct with needle fabric "1m (see page 6). Be sure to use similar threads for both needle and bobbin. NEEDLE INSERTION Raise the needle bar to highest point by turning the hand wheel toward you. Loosen the needle clamp screw.
UPPER THREADING-SINGLE NEEDLE Raise take-up lever to highest point. Place thread on spool shown. pin Thread and lead needle through from front threading points to Draw back. sufficient thread through eye of needle with which to start sewing.
WIND THE BOBBIN Loosen stop motion wheel with right hand. Place bobbin on spindle. Pull out bobbin winder engaging slide.
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WIND THE BOBBIN (Cont'd.) A full bobbin will automatically release. Stop machine and push in disengaging slide. X X Hold end of thread and start machine. Tighten stop motion wheel.
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THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE Hold bobbin so that thread leads off in direction shown. Place bobbin in case. Guide thread into slot and under spring. Draw thread into notch at end of spring, pulling off about 3 inches of thread across the bobbin. Close slide plate allowing thread to enter notch.
PRINCIPAL PARTS OF MACHINE 431 Stitch pattern selector Stitch chart Special disc Take-up lever Bobbin winder Face plate stitch width léver Automatic thread control Hand wheel Needle thread tension Stitch length regulator Throat plate Slide plate 14 Cloth plate disengaging button
STITCH LENGTH REGULATOR Numerals on left side of indicator represent number of stitches per inch. Reverse To release Numerals on right side represent stitch length in millimeters. The upper indented area of the indicator repre sents stitch lengths above 20. The lower indented area of the indicator allows the No. 6 stitch length setting to be "locked" in place when stitching folds, pleats or multiple layers of heavy fabric.
STITCH WIDTH AND NEEDLE POSITION SELECTOR A Stitch width or needle position setting is necessary for both straight and zigzag stitching. When used with a straight stitch setting, the lever places stitching in left, centre or right needle position (see pages 19 and 20). When used with a decorative stitch setting, the lever controls width of primary patterns and produces variations of combination patterns (see pages 34 and 36). To position, depress lever and slide il left or right to desired setting.
STITCH PATTERN SELECTOR (Set Stitch Width Lever at 3.) Pull and select i All settings on the left of the plate are controlled by the outer knob. All settings on the right of the plate are controlled by the inner knob. Push (using right hand) — select desired setting and release. Pull (using left hand) — select desired setting and release. 1. Push 2. Select (A to J) 3. Release 1. Pull 2. Select (K to S) 3. Release Do not make selector adjustments while the needle is in the fabric.
THROAT PLATE REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT To remove the throat plate To replace the throat plate Raise presser bar. Turn hand wheel until needle Place throat plate in position over two clamping bar is at its highest point. Open slide plate. Place pins and press plate down until it snaps in locked thumb under front end of throat plate and lift plate position. Then close slide plate. from machine.
STRAIGHT STITCHING CENTRE NEEDLE POSITION AK 3 Needle Position Lever at 3 (Centre Position). General Purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot. Use general purpose throat plate and presser foot for all utility sewing, long straight seams, etc., and where there is occasion to alternate between straight and zigzag stitching. STRAIGHT STITCH THROAT PLATE AND PRESSER FOOT Use the straight stitch throat plate and presser foot where fabric and sewing procedure require close control . . .
STRAIGHT STITCHING SECONDARY POSITIONS f 1 1 1 Set Selector at AK. Needle Position Lever at 1, 2, 4 or 5. General Purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot. To meet special requirements a line of stitching may be placed to the left or to the right of centre. Lever setting 1 locates stitching to the extreme left; lever setting 5 locates it to the extreme right. Inter mediate left and right positions result when settings 2 and 4 are used.
PREPARE TO SEW Hold needle thread lightly with left hand. Turn hand wheel so that needle enters plate and brings up bobbin thread. i I » ■f"'! K- jJ«“”"'«»,.. ' Pull end of bobbin thread through plate and place both needle and bobbin threads diagonally under presser foot.
SEWING A SEAM Set stitch regulator for stitch length desired. Position needle into fabric about V2 inch from edge and lower presser foot. Raise stitch regulator to reverse. Back stitch to edge of fabric for reinforcement. Lower regulator for forward stitching of seam.
SEWING A SEAM (Cont'd.) Back stitch to reinforce end of seam, and lower regulator to forward stitching position. With take-up lever at highest point, raise presser foot and remove fabric.
GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC \ Most fabrics need only to be guided in front of the presser foot. Fabrics of unusual texture and weave, filmy sheers, crepes, tricots, etc., require support while being stitched. For such fabrics, use the straight stitch throat plate and presser foot, and apply gentle tension to the seam by holding the fabric in front and at the back of the presser foot as illustrated.
PRESSURE ADJUSTMENTS To decrease pressure, turn thumb screw upward. To increase pressure, turn screw downward. Decrease Increase Pressure is the force the presser foot exerts on fabric while it is being stitched. . Smooth, even handling of several thicknesses of fabric results when pressure is correctly regulated. Too light a pressure will result in irregular feeding which affects both quality of stitch and evenness of seams.
NEEDLE THREAD TENSION STRAIGHT STITCHING Needle thread tension too tight — correct by setting dial to lower number. Needle thread tension too loose — correct by setting dial to higher number. A perfectly locked stitch results with the upper and lower tensions balanced so that needle and bobbin threads are drawn equally into fabric.
BOBBIN THREAD TENSION STRAIGHT STITCHING / y,iiS§i '•'xA ex .„.-Jy/I ''•>< •< :r—-Hv, \ X \ ..m .... Bobbin thread tension too loose — correct by turning screw in direction indicated. Bobbin thread tension too tight — correct by turning screw in direction indicated. Insert for tension screwdriver A perfectly locked stitch results with the upper and lower tensions balanced so that needle and bobbin threads are drawn equally into fabric.
ZIGZAG STITCHING EQUIPMENT General purpose presser foot. 28 Special purpose presser foot.
STITCH LENGTH ADJUSTMENT FOR SATIN STITCHING ..M t The upper indented area of the stitch indicator provides a means of gradually shortening the stitch length. As the regulator knob is turned, the pointer rides deeper into this indentation until a closed satin stitch is obtained. The exact stitch setting will vary with the texture of the fabric. It is advisable to make a test on a scrap of self fabric, using the Special Purpose Foot, before proceeding with the actual work.
SATIN STITCH TENSION ADJUSTMENT Satin stitching requires a lighter needle / thread tension than straight stitching or open designs. The wider the satin stitching the lighter the / tension required. Wide satin stitching, Stitch Width at 5, requires the least amount of tension. For narrower satin stitching slightly more tension should be used. To determine correct tension setting, a test sample should be made on self fabric using the Special Purpose Foot.
PRIMARY PATTERNS Selector settings "L" to "'SpeciaT' control primary patterns. Selector setting "B" places stitching in central needle position. Stitch width lever controls width of primary patterns. See pages 16 and 17 for operation of Stitch Width and Stitch Pattern Selectors. Do not make any adjustments while the needle is in the fabric. M N 0 P Q u J U j z> c.
PRIMARY PATTERNS SPECIAL DISCS These five interchangeable SPECIAL Discs, classified as Primary Patterns, are included with the machine. Each produces an individual design. Circled numbers (for example, @) in this book indicate SPECIAL Disc numbers.
PRIMARY PATTERNS REPLACEMENT OF SPECIAL DISCS « Special To replace any of these discs, move right hand pointer of Selector off SPECIAL. Raise the stitch chart at top of the machine. Remove disc and place another disc onto spindle, pushing downward until disc snaps in place. Set right hand pointer on SPECIAL to engage the disc.
PRIMARY PATTERNS CONTROL OF WIDTH \ *■ *** *»m i I Width of Primary Patterns is controlled by the Stitch Width Selector. As the selector lever is moved to the right, the width of the stitch pattern is increased. Settings range from a minimum of 2 to a maxi mum of 5. Intermediate settings may also be used. To avoid damage to needle and fabric, do not make any selector adjustments while the needle is in the fabric.
PRIMARY PATTERNS NEEDLE POSITIONS Selector setting of B places stitching in central needle position. Selector settings A and C place the stitching in left and right needle positions at widths less than 5. Special Left Special Centre Q Right Selector setting B is preferred. Settings A and C are only used when special placement of stitching is desired. For example: buttonholes, button' sewing.
COMBINATION PATTERNS AND VARIATIONS ▼ J L 2 J L3 A great variety of additional stitch patterns can be created by combining any left hand Selector setting from D to J with any right hand Selector setting from L to SPECIAL. A Lever setting of 3 results in a Combination Pattern. Settings of 2 and 4 produce Variations.
TWO NEEDLES The needle clamp accommodates two Cata logue 2020 same size. However, desired, needles are (15X1) needles, generally where of of special different the effects sizes may be used together, with corresponding threads. Loosen the thumb screw and insert the addi tional needle from the right. (See page 7 for procedure.
TWO NEEDLES UPPER THREADING Use size 50 mercerised thredd. Thread as for single needle (see page 8). Make certain that both threads are separated by the centre guide post of the thread control and by the centre tension disc. Carry only one thread through the last guide before the needle, as shown below.
TWO NEEDLES STRAIGHT STITCHING AK 2 2 I Selector setting: AK Lever: 2 only General purpose throat plate and presser foot.
TWO NEEDLES PRIMARY PATTERNS 11 * *• 00 \ *♦ Selector setting: "A" — "L'' to “SPECIAL" Stitch width: 2 or 3 maximum General purpose throat plate General purpose foot or special purpose foot 40
Instructions for using ATTACHMENTS... NOTE: The attachments which are not regularly furnished with your machine are available for separate purchase at your local SINGER SEWING CENTRE.
SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT % ## •:i% BUTTONHOLES This light, flexible foot is designed for satin stitching. It provides maximum visibility and maneuverability while allowing closely spaced zigzag stitches to feed freely. It is ideal for accurate placement of satin stitch ing in buttonholes, monograms, motifs and applique work. The eyelet on the left side of the foot accommod ates a filler cord.
BUTTONHOLES Marking lines Length of cutting space Bar tacks and side stitching I The length of cutting space, the opening through which the button passes, is measured by the width and thickness of the button. The length of the finished buttonhole will be the cutting space plus Vs inch for bar tacks. Work a sample buttonhole in the same fabric as the garment. Use a double fold, duplicating a facing and include interfacing if this has been used.
BUTTONHOLES (Cont'd.) Procedure. Set Selector (AL) and Width Lever (see page 42). Place work under needle, aligning centre marking of buttonhole with centre score line of Special Purpose Foot. .. I.. C D ® ''i . ,,..v Side Stitching. Position needle in fabric at point A. Lower foot and stitch to end of marking. Leave needle in fabric at point B. Raise foot and pivot work on needle. Lower foot. Take one stitch without changing Width setting, bringing work to point C. Bai Tack.
BUTTONHOLES (Cont'd.) Raised or Corded Buttonholes. Either strands of stitching thread or buttonhole twist make suitable filler cords for raised buttonholes. Place the spool of filler cord on the second spool pin. Carry the cord through the first thread guide, straight down between the centre and back tension discs, into the large thread guide and then through the eyelet on the Special Purpose Foot. Draw the cord under and to the back of the foot and proceed as for regular buttonholes.
APPLIQUE Appliqué adds beauty and interest to wearing Method No. 1. Set Selector and Lever for the desired stitch pattern. Following the shape of the apparel,' linens and fabric furnishings. design, Either contrasting effectively. The or most self fabric versatile may stitch be for used appliqué is a closely set zigzag stitch (Primary Pattern BL). The width of this stitch may be varied to accom modate weaves and textures of fabrics.
APPLIQUE Method No. 2. Set Selector and Lever to AK 3 for straight stitching. Outline the entire design with a short stitch. Trim the raw edges down to the stitching. Set Selector and Lever to the stitch pattern desired, and overedge the design with this stitch ing. A smooth, lustrous finish results, which requires no additional trimming. Corded Appliqué. The Special Purpose Foot, which provides for a filler cord, is perfect for corded appliqué work.
MONOGRAMS AND MOTIFS Any of the many stitch patterns are perfect for monograms and motifs. Select a design from the many transfer patterns available or sketch one to suit your purpose. To reproduce a specific portion of a stitch pattern, first stitch on a scrap of material until the desired point in the design is reached. Some fabrics may require a backing of lawn or organdie. Position the design on the material. Trim backing away completed, if necessary.
SEAMING SHEERS Selector: BL Stitch Width: 2 Throat plate: General Purpose Special purpose foot Stitch length: Fine (above 20) A dainty hair-line finish is particularly desirable for the inside seams of sheer collars, facings and yokes. Seam allowances that ordinarily show through are eliminated. Both heavy duty thread and tatting thread make suitable filler cords (see page 45 for threading). Follow the seam outline covering the cord. Cut away seam allowance close to line of stitching. Turn and press.
COUCHING Novel effects are obtained yarn or braid with stitch patterns. by couching gimp, Spaced patterns are the most appropriate as they allow the decorative cords to show as part of the design. The Special Purpose Foot is ideally suited to this work (see page 45 for threading). LACE EDGING AND INSERTION Delicate, yet durable zigzag stitching is especially appropriate for the application of lace edgings and insertions. Many decorative stitch patterns can effectively serving as both finish and trim.
BUTTON SEWING FOOT This short, open foot accommodates any size sew-through button, and holds it securely for stitch ing. The groove in the foot allows for insertion of a ma chine needle, over which a thread shank may be form ed. The foQt is used in connection with the General Purpose Feed Cover Plate. Selector setting: AL Stitch Width: 1 and 4 General Purpose Feed Cover Plate Button sewing foot Stitch length: above 20 Space between holes in button determines Stitch Width settings.
BUTTON SEWING FOOT Set Lever at 4. The needle should then enter into the right hole of the button. Take approximately six zigzag stitches in this position. End at the left side. To fasten stitching, adjust to number 1 Width setting and take approximately three stitches. 52 Stitch THREAD SHANK In order to form a shank, stitching is worked over a regular machine needle. Position button and lower button foot. Place needle in the groove of the .foot so t];ie point enters the hole.
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SEAMS KNIT FABRIC SEAMS FLAT FELLED SEAMS Zigzag stitching flat felled seams. gives strength and durability to Form the seam to the right side of the fabric, taking full seam allowance, using a zigzag stitch (BL 3). Press the seam open, then fold and press the two edges together, keeping the right side of the zigzag stitch uppermost. Trim away half the under seam edge. Fold the upper seam edge evenly over the trim med seam, and top stitch.
SEAM FINISHES Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish where fabrics have a tendency to fray. The zigzag stitch BL is ideaifor such finishing. Place the stitching near the edge of the seam allowance, and then trim away excess fabric. For an overedged seam, the blind stitch BO makes a durable bulkless finish. Good fgr straight grain, lengthwise seams. Seam edges should be trimmed evenly, and the stitch then formed over the raw edge.
DARTS Darts provide fit and contour in a garment and should be accurately stitched. A straight stitch dart (AK 3) is usually formed by stitching from the seam edge, tapering grad ually to the point, where the last 3 or 4 stitches parallel the fold. Stitch beyond the fabric to form a thread chain V2 to V4 inch in length. Tie the thread ends into a single knot close to the stitching. SINGLE THREAD DARTS Darts add styling and interest when stitched with the fold to the outside of garment.
DARTS IN INTERFACING Non-woven interfacings can be shaped without bulk with zigzag stitching. Selector setting BL or BQ may be used. Cut out the dart allowance on the stitching line and bring the raw edges together. Pin, over a muslin stay, and stitch. Back stitch at both ends. BLANKET BINDING The multiple stitch zigzag (BQ) is an excellent stitch for applying blanket bindings and affords both a decorative and durable finish. Remove worn binding. Baste new binding securely in place and stitch.
MENDING Zigzag stitching is well suited for all types of household mending. Selector setting BQ provides a firm, flexible bond for the repair of rents and tears, and is ideal for the reinforcement and ap plication of elastic. Stitch length and width are regulated according to need. Rent or Tear. Trim away ragged edges. Place an underlay to the wrong side of the tear for rein forcement. Using the multiple stitch zigzag (BQ) follow the line of the tear bringing the edges to gether.
SCALLOPING Dainty scalloped edges are used extensively as self trimming on blouses, dresses, lingerie and chil dren's wear. Perfectly formed and evenly spaced scallops are produced automatically at Selector Settings BR and BS BR results in a 12-stitch scallop. BS a 24-stitch scallop. Stitch regulator and Lever settings vary the length and depth of the scallop. After stitching, trim seam allowance to less than Vs" and clip into the points between scallops.
SEAMS To guide seam stitching straight and parallel to the edge of the fabric, adjust the attachment for proper seam width. Align the guide with the presser foot. (Set Selector at AK, Lever at 3.) The seam guide aids in attaining uniformity of seam width. It provi des for stitching to be spaced at any distance bet ween Va" to IV4" from the edge of the fabric. APPLICATIONS Seams Top Stitching Blind Stitching Decorative Stitching The attachment is used in connection with a presser foot.
SEAMS (Cont'd.) TOP STITCHING Curved seams require additional treatment in handling. A shorter stitch will provide greater elasticity and strength. Set the attachment at an angle so that the end closest to the needle acts as a guide. A simple and practical way to accent the lines of a garment and at the same time give additional firmness. Either single or multiple rows of stitching can be expertly placed along lapels and facing edges, round collars and pockets and as a hem finish.
BLIND STITCHED HEMS Selector setting: BO Stitch Width: 2 — 5 Stitch length: 10 — 20 Presser foot: General purpose Throat plate: General purpose seam guide Blind stitching provides a durable hem finish that is almost invisible and comparable to hand sewing. Mark, turn and press hem in the usual way. Baste a guide line V4" from the top of the hem edge. Place the hem edge over the feed of the machine, turn back the bulk of the fabric to the line of bast ing, thereby creating a soft fold.
THE CORDING FOOT •f: -i: # # # # # f: |! # # # 'Is i| # # # # # t This foot is designed to facilitate the placing of stitching close to a raised edge. The hinged feature of this foot ensures even feeding over pins, heavy layers of fabric or cross seams. It is attached to the machine in place of the regular presser foot, and may be adjusted to either the right or left side of the needle. Straight stitch or zigzag settings may be used. APPLICATIONS Zip Fastener Insertions Corded Seams Preparation.
ZIP FASTENER INSERTION Straight stitch setting: AK 3 Throat plate: General purpose Cording foot Many different everything you methods for types sew. of There insertion. zips are available for are several satisfactory Detailed sewing instructions are included in zip packet. For any method used, the Cording Foot enables you to form an even line of stitching close to the zip. When the zip is to the right of the needle — • Adjust the Cording Foot to the left of the needle.
BLIND STITCHED ZIP FASTENER INSERTION Selector setting: BO Stitch Width: 2Vi or 3 Throat plate: General purpose Stitch length: 12 Cording foot Blind stitching the final step of a zip insertion results in a fine finish that is almost invisible and comparable to hand sewing. Particularly suitable for chiffons, sheers, velvets and all delicate fabrics where top stitching would be too harsh. Allow a Vs" seam allowance. Start the insertion in the regular way but omit final step.
CORDED PIPING Straight stitch setting: AK 3 Throat plate: General purpose or straight stitch Cording foot Piping cord comes in a variety of sizes and, when covered with a firmly woven fabric, makes a piping that is an excellent seam finish. This piping is prepared in advance and then stitched into the seam. Cut a true bias strip IV4 inches wide, plus three times the width of the cord, of either self or contrasting fabric. Sew strips together on the lengthwise grain to obtain desired length.
CORDED SEAMS Straight stitch setting: AK 3 Throat plate: General purpose or straight stitch Cording foot The corded seam is a professional treatment for slip covers, children's clothes, blouses and lingerie. When cording a seam the cording foot is usually adjusted to the right of the needle so that the bulk of the work will fall to the left. Attach the piping to the right side of a single seam edge, with the same stitch length used to make the piping (page 66).
THE NARROW HEMMER The narrow hemmer forms and stitches a perfectly turn ed hem without basting or pressing. It is attached to the machine in place of the regular presser foot. Hemming with lace Lingerie finishes Straight stitch setting: AK 3 Throat plate: Straight stitch Narrow hemmer HEMMING Crease a double Vs" fold for about 2 inches along the edge of the fabric to be hemmed. Draw the bobbin and needle threads under the hemmer.
HEMMED SEAMS Straight stitch setting: AK 3 Throat plate: Straight stitch Narrow hemmer A hemmed seam is applied where a fine narrow seam is appropriate. Allow a scant V4" seam allo wance. With both sides of fabric together, place upper layer Vs" to left of lower layer. Insert two fabric edges into hemmer and proceed as for plain hem.
HEMMING WITH LACE Selector setting: BL Stitch Width: 3 Throat plate: General purpose Narrow hemmer Lace edgings can be applied with the Narrow Hemmer to trim lingerie hems, children's clothes, etc. Lace Applied Over Hem. Fold and start the hem in the usual way. Starting about 1" down from the end of the lace, place the selvage under the needle and lower needle to hold lace firmly. Raise the foot slightly and slip the lace under the back portion of the foot, without disturbing the position of the fabric.
Slot for folded bias tape Adjusting lug Scroll for unfolded binding Commercial single fold bias tape is inserted from the right into the slot at the wide end of the scroll. Unfolded bias wide is inserted into the open ing at the end of the scroll. Cut binding diagonally and pull through the Guide pins scroll until evenly folded edges are under the needle. Free length of binding is held between the guide pins. Insert the edge to be bound into the centre of the scroll.
MULTI-SLOTTED BINDER (Cont'd.) Curved edges require slightly different fabric handling from straight edges. Inside curves are straigh tened as they are fed into the binder. If fabric is soft and has a tendency to stretch, reinforce the edge with a single row of stitching before binding. Outside curves tend to lead away from the centre slot of the scroll and should be guided so that a full seam width is taken at the needle point.
fi' % m % m m # -is- # # # #' ü ü ì* * # # -i? « » # ■# # # 'i? i Fork Arm Adjusting Finger Adjusting Lever Straight stitch setting: AK 3 Throat plate: Straight stitch Ruffler Adjusting Points The adjusting lever sets the ruffler for gathers or pleats. The number 1 space setting is for gathers and places fullness at every stitch. Numbers 6 and 12 are space settings for pleats, spacing them 6 or 12 stitches apart. The star is for straight stitching and is used when grouping gathers or pleats.
THE RÜFFLER (Cont'd.) Gathering Activating Parts • The ruffling blade and the separator blade are throw adjusting finger out of action. of blue steel and hold the material to be gathered between them. The ruffling blade forms the gathers or pleats by carrying the fabric to the Set adjusting lever on Number 1 setting and • Turn adjusting screw for amount of fullness needle desired and set stitch length to space fullness.
THE RÜFFLER (Cont'd.) Length of sewing machine stitch also affects ruffle fullness. Since a given attachment setting puts an equal amount of fullness into each stitch regardless of its length, shortening the stitch (more stitches to the inch) makes ruffle fuller; lengthening the stitch (fewer stitches to the inch) makes it less full. For fine, closely spaced gathering, use a short stitch and an outward adjustment of adjusting screw.
THE RÜFFLER (Cont'd.) Pleating • Move adjusting lever to desired space setting for pleats either 6 or 12 stitches apart. •' Set stitch length. For deepest pleat, set adjusting finger and turn adjusting screw inward to. its maximum setting. For smaller pleats, turn adjusting screw outward. A short stitch places pleats more closely together; a long stitch separates the pleats for a greater distance. • Insert fabric to be pleated between blue blades and into first separator guide.
DARNING AND EMBROIDERY FOOT # i « iif # # i?? # # # ■ $;; ils 1 ■ ?; •i? ® This attachment is an aid to all who desire perfection in free motion darning and embroidery work. The foot firmly holds the fabric as the needle enters and rises from the work, while fully re vealing the line of design to be followed. Free motion work darning Straight stitch setting: AK 3 Feed cover plate Darning and embroidery foot Stitch length: Above 20 Trim ragged edges from area to be darned.
FREE MOTION WORK MONOGRAMS — EMBROIDERY Selector setting: BL Stitch Width: 2 —5 Feed cover plate Darning and embroidery foot Stitch length: Above 20 Script monograms and embroidery can be effec tively accomplished with the zigzag stitch when the free motion principle is employed. • Trace or mark design on right side of fabric. • Place work in embroidery hoops large enough to encompass entire design. Be sure fabric is held taut. • Move hoops slowly, following outline of design.
DECORATIVE STITCH PATTERNS Examples of Stitch Patterns and their Selector Settings gggn __ MiB HugM gng| mill mm imi ims ims mm mmi hééi mM mm mm mM ìmé imk mm mm mMi mmm imm mms mm AnJTJTjnjriTLJTJrUVinjlAriJTjyTJTJTJVT^^ DP4 DS (D 2 DS (D 3 EP2 F02 FR2 FS © 3 79
DECORATIVE STITCH PATTERNS Examples of Stitch Patterns and their Selector Settings GM 4 GP 4 UJiUiMAMAJlM^jlMiJljlJUjLMjUuUUjUAAJLÌMjlMUÌ%MJuMMU>Ml^ GS (D 2 «4> *4» GS @ 4 HS (3) 4 ■v/VAySj\Ayv^j\Ays,rNysyv\yvAy\/\y\Ayv\/\Aj\/\Au^v\AySj\A.
APPLICATIONS OF THE CYLINDER BED FEATURE 81
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TO CLEAN THE MACHINE Your sewing machine was built to exacting standards of precision and workmanship. Its per formance depends on the care and treatment it receives when in use and before storing it away. When in regular use, the machine should be cleaned periodically to remove the lint and fluff which may have accumulated round the working parts. To clean the bobbin case area, see instruc tions for removing and replacing bobbin case on pages 88 and 89.
TO REMOVE THE BOBBIN CASE Vsv<.x... V Sv-V.. To clean hook raceway, remove bobbin case as follows: 1. Remove throat plate (see page 18) and open slide plate (see page 12). 2. Unlock bobbin case by lifting and pulling holder to right as shown. 3. Remove bobbin case from machine. 4. Remove all lint, fluff, loose thread ends or any other foreign matter which might clog the machine.
TO REPLACE THE BOBBIN CASE Positioning stud I :l' .....\ / i yi(Ci5i...'"'"I 5. Replace bobbin case so that groove under tension spring fits on hook raceway and fork of case straddles positioning stud. 6. Push bobbin case holder to left as shown until it snaps down into lock position. 7. Close bed slide and replace throat plate.
TO LUBRICATE THE MACHINE Use SINGER Oil and SINGER Lubricant! Both are extra quality products especially pre pared for sewing machines, and should always be used in the care of your 431. Clean the machine periodically as instructed on page 87. Apply a drop of oil to each place indicated. Remove screws A and lift off arm top cover. Apply a small amount of lubricant to the gears as shown. A tube of this lubricant can be purchased at your Singer Sewing Centre. Never apply Oil to these gears.
TO LUBRICATE THE MACHINE (Cont'd.) Swing face plate to left and oil the places indi cated. Open slide plate and apply a drop of oil to the hook raceway as indicated. Close slide plate, replace arm top cover and close face plate.
TO LUBRICATE THE MACHINE (Cont'd.) Clean llÉÉàSp A' iX, Tilt machine back and remove thumb nut from screw B, being careful not to lose felt washer, and remove cover from underside of machine. Remove screw C and remove cylinder cover. Clean hook and gear area, oil each of the places indicated, and occasionally apply a small quantity of lubricant to teeth of gears as shown. Replace bottom cover and cylinder cover. The motor requires no lubrication.
ELECTRICAL INFORMATION The SINGER* Electric Motor in the electric ma chine is furnished for operation on an alternating or direct current. Orders must state the catalogue number of the motor, or the voltage, and in the case of alternating current, the number of cycles. Before Inserting Electric Plug A, be sure that voltage and cycles stamped on electrical nameplate B are within range marked on your electric meter installed by your power company. Electrical Connections for Machine.
LIGHT The light is turned "on" or "off" by the switch F. To Remove Bulb. Remove screw H and lamp cover E. Do not attempt to ynscrew bulb. Press it into socket and at same time turn bulb over in direction shown to unlock bulb pin G, then with draw bulb. To Replace Bulb. Press new bulb into socket with bulb pin G entering slot of socket and turn it over in direction shown to lock bulb pin G in position. Replace lamp cover E and securely fasten it in position with screw H.
INDEX Applications of Cylinder Bed Feature.....................................81—86 Appliqué....................................... ...... • ... . . 46—47 Attadiments Button Sewing Foot . . . . . . . . . . 51—52 Darning and Embroidery Foot.............................................77—78 68—70 Narrow Hemmer 53—59 General Purpose Foot 71—72 Multi-slotted Binder 73—76 Ruffler . . . . 60—62 Seam Guide Special Purpose Foot............................................................. 42—50 Cording Foot........
Needle Thread Tension Satin Stitching .............................................................................. 30 Straight Stitching ...... ................................................................... 26 Needle Threading Single................................................................................................ 8 Two................................................................................................. 38 Oiling..................................... .........................
To all whom it may concern: The improper placing or renewal of the trademark SINGER or any other of the trademarks of The Singer Company (all of which are duly rebuilt, Registered Trademarks) reconditioned, or on altered any in machine any way that has been whatsoever SINGER factory or an authorized SINGER agency is forbidden.
For your protection SINGER Sewing Machines are sold and serviced wherever you see the famous SINGER and Red "S" Trademarks. When your machine needs servicing call your SINGER SEWING CENTRE to be sure of warranted SINGER parts and service. See address in the telephone directory.
