Installation Guide

BEAUTIFUL RESULTS REALLY ARE EASY.
That’s because working with LP Prefinished
Moulding is easy. They install easily, even to slightly
imperfect walls. They’re free of knots and resist the
warping, splitting and splintering associated with
traditional wood mouldings. And every piece is
engineered to be consistent, making every piece one
you can use. They don’t need to be sanded, painted or
stained. You can install LP Prefinished Moulding with
just a few standard tools, but there are a few tips you
should know. Just keep reading. Then create the room
you’ve always wanted.
HOW TO INSTALL LP PREFINISHED MOULDING
Determine the height placement on the wall for chair
rails or caps, if you’re using them. Once you’ve deter-
mined this measurement, use a level and a pencil to
trace a line around the room as a guide for installation.
Then installing any moulding is simple, just begin
from any corner in the room and nail in place. All
LP
Prefinished Moulding can be nailed without the need for
pre-drilling. If you have one available, a power nail gun,
set at 95 PSI or less, can speed up your project.
Drive nails to within 1/4” of the surface of the moulding
to prevent scarring the moulding face. With the appro-
priate sized nail set, drive all nails below the surface of
the moulding.
All joints and splices may be filled with caulk, if desired.
On crown mouldings, it’s helpful to add a bead of caulk
along the ceiling and wall edges to hide imperfections.
HOW TO FINISH PREFINISHED MOULDING
Since our moulding is prefinished, simply touch-up nail
holes and joints with a color coordinated putty, caulk or
spackling. Shoe polish, latex stain, a felt marker or cray-
ons can also be used. Avoid wood fillers that contain sol-
vents harmful to the moulding’s finish.
We understand you may need to coordinate your mould-
ing to existing trim. Fortunately, our Crystal White
moulding’s finish will accept other coatings, so you can
simply use your favorite high quality interior latex paint.
That’s all there is to it! Once you get the hang of it, you can
stand back and be proud of the warmth and personality
you created. Give it a try. Make it your own. You’ll love it!
MITER JOINTS
Most moulding joints are cut at 45º
angles. To create a tight joint, be sure
each piece is being cut in the correct
direction, at opposite angles. For the
best results, cut into the finished face of
the moulding using a power miter saw and a short chop
stroke to cut the moulding.
COPING
Use this method for a perfect fit
between moulding sections that meet
at inside corners. Install the first piece
so that the end is tightly butted into
the corner. Placing the moulding in the miter box, miter
the second piece. Clamp that piece on a table or bench
with the mitered end free. Holding the coping saw with
a slight inward angle, carefully trim the mitered edge
following the moulding profile. Smooth cut edge with
sandpaper or file, and install moulding with coped edge
butted firmly against the first piece.
SPLICING
To span longer lengths, you may have
to splice the moulding. The two pieces
can be jointed using a vertical ‘butt’ splice or a 45 degree
diagonal splice (shown above). The diagonal splice can
be accomplished by placing the moulding with the flat
bottom side against the bottom of the miter box. Cut
using the appropriate 45 degree angle slots to guide the
saw. For best results, make sure the splice is installed
over a stud so that the nails attach firmly.
FOLLOW THESE STEPS FOR A BETTER CUT
Easy Installation for LP Prefinished Moulding
For more information, call customer service: 1-800-521-4259 or visit www.lpcorp.com.
LP is a registered trademark pf Louisiana-Pacific Corporation. © 2010 Louisiana-Pacific Corporation. All rights reserved. Printed in USA. MD30064IN 10/10
TOOLS REQUIRED
You only need a few basic tools to complete
any moulding project.
Pencil Sandpaper or hand file
Tape measure Color matched putty, caulk or spackling
Safety glasses Fine-tooth backsaw or miter saw
Hammer Finishing nails (4d or 6d)
Miter box Nail set (to punch nail heads below the moulding surface)
Level Stud Finder
For larger projects, the following tools would be help-
ful—though not essential for installation.
Power miter saw (Sharp fine tooth blade) Power nail gun (95 PSI or less)
Coping saw Caulk gun
HANDLING
Once you bring your moulding home, acclimate it to
room temperature for 24 hours prior to installation.

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