User Manual

The settings in detail

The settings can be changed with either the LCD program box or the USB

Link software on your PC. Make sure the ESC is calibrated to your radio

before changing anything.

. Running Mode – should be self explanatory. Forward/Brake is best for

racing, I have enabled reverse for drifting in the past but the ESC is

slow to start going forward again so I wouldn’t recommend it.

. Drag Brake – The amount of brakes applied at neutral. In the past I

would run 10-15% to make the motor feel more like a brushed one.

Now, I would run as close to 0% as you can get away with because it

will help to carry more corner speed. If you are running anything

above 20% then something is wrong with your setup.

. Voltage Protection – the cut-off voltage to protect your LiPo battery.

Run it at whatever level you are comfortable with, too low and you

might damage your LiPo, too high and the car might cut out

unexpectedly under power. Personally I am at 3.2V per cell.

. DRRS Punch – for a punchier feel out of the corners. Higher level =

more punch. I’ve been using levels between 7 and 9.

. Brake Force – the amount of brake at full brake. I’ve always found

100% to be very strong and prone to lock up the wheels, I’m

currently on 75%.

. Reverse Force – I always set this at 100%, due to an apparent bug in

previous versions where the reverse force affected the braking as

well.

. Initial Brake – the amount of brake when you first start braking. I

always set this to be the same as the Drag Brake, otherwise you

might not have a linear braking feel.

. Neutral Range – The distance you need to move your throttle from

neutral before the ESC applies power. I use 6%, but I use high-

quality Futaba radio gear. Apparently lower-quality gear needs at

least 9%.

. Boost Timing – this is where it starts to get interesting/confusing.

Timing is added by the ESC in a total of 64steps (these are not

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The settings in detail The settings can be changed with either the LCD program box or the USB Link software on your PC. Make sure the ESC is calibrated to your radio before changing anything. . . . . . . . . . Running Mode – should be self explanatory. Forward/Brake is best for racing, I have enabled reverse for drifting in the past but the ESC is slow to start going forward again so I wouldn’t recommend it. Drag Brake – The amount of brakes applied at neutral.
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. . . . . . degrees). This setting is the amount of timing added in the boost phase. I have it set to 40 at the moment. Turbo Slope – This determines the rate at which the turbo timing is added, in steps/0.1s. A smaller number is a more gradual slope. I am on 18. Overheat Protection – I enable this, and I have yet to have an ESC overheat in a race. Turbo Timing – the amount of timing added in the turbo phase. I am on 24. Start RPM – the motor RPM at which the boost timing begins to be added.