Installation Guide
1. TILE NEEDED
Measure the length and width of the room. If the room has alcoves
and offsets, measure these separately.
Determine the number of 12" x 12, 12" x 24" or 18" x 18" tiles needed
for each area. Purchase about 10% extra to cover for mistakes and
trimming. Check the run numbers on the label that is located on the front
flap of the carton to be sure you get tiles from the same run to avoid
shade variations.
Each tile is unique and it is essential that you shuffle the tile from all
cartons and lay out the individual tiles to ensure the most desirable
pattern effect on your overall floor.
2. TOOLS NEEDED
Scissors and a utility knife, carpenter's square, chalk string, pencil,
and paper for tracing. Warning: Use gloves and safety glasses when
installing this product.
3. SUBFLOOR
The surface upon which your new tile is being installed is referred to as
the subfloor, an important part of your completed flooring installation.
The finished floor will be no smoother or stronger than the subfloor.
Check the subfloor to be sure it is free of dirt, wax, grease, paint and
other foreign matter. To be sure the subfloor is completely clean, we
recommend the use of TSP (trisodium phosphate) to remove any
remaining dirt, grease, or other foreign matter. Please be sure to follow
the directions on the container of TSP to ensure safety.
The best subfloor is a smooth underlayment grade of plywood. DO NOT
USE PARTICLEBOARD. THE WARRANTY IS VOIDED IF PARTICLEBOARD IS
USED AS AN UNDERLAYMENT. This tile can be installed on or above grade
and for installation in basements (below grade). Please use a “Basement
Proofer” or similar product to properly prepare concrete floors. Be sure
to follow the instructions on the “Basement Proofer” for a successful
installation. Concrete floors must be smooth and dry before installation
and remain dry after installation. To make a smooth floor, use a
professional leveling compound and sand the high spots. See below for
instructions. Allow newly poured concrete to cure before installation.
FLOOR PRIMER OR “BASEMENT PROOFER” MUST BE USED OVER
CONCRETE PRIOR TO INSTALLATION. DO NOT INSTALL OVER SEALED
OR RAW CONCRETE! See next step for further details. Failure to use
primer over concrete voids the warranty.
Check for moisture on your subfloor if it is on or below grade by taping
down a thin plastic film of about 18" x 18" in and leave for 24 hours. The
subfloor must be treated for any moisture condition before installation.
Many successful installations have been made over existing vinyl floors.
In such cases, the existing tile or sheet vinyl floor must be securely
adhered to the subfloor, smooth, free of surface defects and wax.
Loose or damaged areas should be patched or replaced. Do not sand
existing vinyl floors under any circumstances.
Wood strip flooring is not suitable as a subfloor and an underlayment
should be installed over it before installation of this vinyl tile.
4. PRIMER
If the subfloor is plywood, hardboard or other subfloor material in
accordance with local construction ordinances in your area, we
recommend an application of professional primer. Primer must be used
for raw concrete floors. The primer prepares the floor and prevents the
subfloor from absorbing all the adhesive, which may cause future failure.
5. CONDITIONING OF TILE
Store the tile at room temperature of at least 65º F for 48 hours before
installation. Be sure the subfloor is at least 60º F.
6. LAYOUT OF ROOM
Treat the room as a rectangle; disregard offsets, alcoves, etc. Find the
center points of the two end walls and snap a chalk line between them.
Find the center of the chalk line and, using a carpenter's square or tile,
draw a second chalk line at right angles to the first line and extend it to
the side walls. The room is now divided into four equal parts.
7. ADJUSTMENT OF BORDER
Starting at the center of the room — where the two chalk lines intersect
— lay a row of tile to one end wall and a second row to one side wall.
Measure the distance from the last tile to the wall. If it is less than 6",
move the centerline 6" nearer to the opposite wall. Do this in both
directions. All borders will now be easier to cut and fit.
8. LAYING OF TILE
Start at the center point. Peel release paper backing from tiles and place
into position, making sure they are flush with the chalk line and each tile
is tight against the next tile. Press tiles against the subfloor for good
contact. For best contact, roll the edges of the tiles with a floor roller.
Discard the release paper backing in wastebasket immediately after
removal from the tile back as it is very slippery.
9. FITTING OF BORDER TILE
Without removing the paper backing, place a loose tile directly over the
last tile in the row. Place a second tile over the first loose tile so that
the one end of the second tile is butted against the wall. Now mark the
tile underneath with a pencil or knife. Cut along the marks, remove
release paper, and lay the tile in place.
10. FITTING AROUND IRREGULAR OBJECTS
Make a pattern out of heavy paper to fit around pipes or other irregular
objects. Place the pattern upon the tile and trace. Cut along trace lines
with scissors or utility knife, remove release paper and lay tile.
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