Use and Care Manual
Table Of Contents
- ProShop II™ 10-inch Table Saw
- 1.0 IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
- 2.0 Table of contents
- 3.0 About this manual
- 4.0 Table Saw terminology
- 5.0 Specifications
- 6.0 Setup and assembly
- 6.1 Shipping contents
- 6.2 Tools required for assembly
- 6.3 Unpacking and cleanup
- 6.4 Installing legs and levelers
- 6.5 Extension wings
- 6.6 Handwheels
- 6.7 Motor cover
- 6.8 Rails and fence
- 6.9 Wood extension table
- 6.10 Switch bracket
- 6.11 Dust collection
- 6.12 Riving knife
- 6.13 Anti-kickback pawls
- 6.14 Blade guard
- 6.15 Blade installation/replacement
- 6.16 Low profile riving knife
- 6.17 Table insert
- 6.18 Miter gauge
- 6.19 Tool storage
- 7.0 Electrical connections
- 8.0 Adjustments
- 9.0 Operations
- 10.0 Safety devices
- 11.0 User-maintenance
- 12.0 Optional accessories
- 13.0 Troubleshooting JPS2 ProShop II
- 14.0 Replacement Parts
- 14.1.1 Motor and Trunnion – Exploded View
- 14.1.2 Motor and Trunnion – Parts List
- 14.2.1 Table and Cabinet– Exploded View
- 14.2.2 Table and Cabinet– Parts List
- 14.3.1 Stand Assembly – Exploded View
- 14.3.2 Stand Assembly – Parts List
- 14.4.1 Switch Assembly – Exploded View
- 14.4.2 Switch Assembly – Parts List
- 14.5.1 Blade Guard Assembly – Exploded View
- 14.5.2 Blade Guard Assembly – Parts List
- 14.6.1 Miter Gauge Assembly – Exploded View
- 14.6.2 Miter Gauge Assembly – Parts List
- 15.0 Electrical Connections for JPS2
- 16.0 Warranty and Service
22
9.2 Rip sawing
Ripping is where the workpiece is fed with the grain
into the saw blade using the fence as a guide and
a positioning device to ensure the desired width of
cut (Figure 9-3).
Figure 9-3
Before starting a ripping cut,
verify that fence is clamped securely and
aligned properly.
• Never rip freehand or use miter gauge in
combination with the fence.
• Never rip workpieces shorter than the saw
blade diameter.
• Never reach behind the blade with either hand
to hold down or remove the cutoff piece with
the saw blade rotating.
Always use blade guard, splitter/riving knife and
anti-kickback pawls. Make sure splitter/riving knife
is properly aligned. When wood is cut along the
grain, the kerf tends to close and bind on the blade
and kickbacks can occur.
The rip fence (A, Figure 9-4) should be set for the
width of the cut (C) by using the scale on the front
rail, or by measuring the distance between blade
(B) and fence (A). Stand out of line with saw blade
and workpiece to avoid sawdust and splinters
coming off the blade or a kickback, if one should
occur.
If the work piece does not have a straight edge,
nail an auxiliary straight edged board on it to
provide one against the fence. To cut properly, the
board must make good contact with the table. If it
is warped, turn the hollow side down. Do not
attempt to cut boards with significant warp.
Figure 9-4
In ripping, use one hand to hold the board down
against the fence or fixture, and the other to push it
into the blade between blade and fence. If
workpiece is narrower than 6" or shorter than 12",
use a push stick or push block to push it through
between fence and blade (Figure 9-5). Never push
in a location such that the pushing hand is in line
with the blade. Move the hand serving as a hold-
down a safe distance from blade as cut nears
completion. For very narrow ripping where a push
stick cannot be used, use a push block or auxiliary
fence. Always push the workpiece completely past
the blade at the end of a cut to minimize the
possibility of a kickback.
Figure 9-5