Onix Tubing Installation Manual

page 62 Watts Radiant: Onix Installation Manual
leaks. Watts Radiant s Onix and fit-
tings are engineered to work together.
Watts Radiant extends no warranty
expressed or implied to any failure
or damage of any kind resulting from
use of materials not supplied by Watts
Radiant (see Onix warranty for
specifics).
1. Cut the Onix.
Make a straight cut-off on both
pieces of Onix to be spliced
together.
2. Select the Correct Brass Splice.
Use only Watts Radiant brass splices
and clamps to repair Onix.
NOTE: Our research shows that
Watts Radiant brass fittings make
the best connections to Onix. Off-
the-shelf brass fittings are made to
different dimensions and tolerances.
Do not use them.
3. Choose the Correct Clamp.
Make sure to use the correctly-sized
stainless TorqueTite or SelfTite
clamp for making Onix connections.
Identify the clamps by the size
markings on the clamps. Use:
TorqueTite Clamps
17
–19 mm for 3/8" Onix,
21
–23 mm for 1/2" Onix,
25
–27 mm for 5/8" Onix,
29
–31 mm for 3/4" Onix, and
37
–40 mm for 1" Onix.
SelfTite Clamps
19 mm for 3/8" Onix,
22 mm for 1/2" Onix,
25 mm for 5/8" Onix, and
29 mm for 3/4" Onix,
Slide one clamp about three inches
onto the length of the Onix.
4. Make the Connection.
Slide both lengths of Onix onto the
brass splice. Slide the clamps back
over the barbed area on both sides.
The clamp should be applied to the
middle of the barbed area.
If using TorqueTite clamps, tighten
the clamp using only an in.-lb.
water, but not both) through side A.
When filling with water, leave the
drain on side B open (side with the
pressure gauge) until water comes out.
Close the valve and fill until the zone
is pressurized to between 50 psi and
100 psi. Do not test over 100 psi, as
this will ruin the gauge on the test kit.
If the temperature is below freezing,
use air to pressure test. If a fluid must
be used, use a 50-50 water/glycol solu-
tion. Failure to use glycol may result
in frozen circuits.
The cool night air will usually cause
less than a ten psi drop in pressure as
the water or air contracts from the
cold. If there is more of a pressure
drop, or if there are other reasons to
believe there is a leak, spray a soapy
solution on all connections and inspect
for leaks. If there are still concerns
about leaks, increase the test pressure
to 100 psi and inspect each of the cir-
cuits. A leak should be visible.
NOTE: During pressure testing the
ends of each circuit where they con-
nect to the manifolds may bubble for
ten or fifteen minutes each time the
system is pressurized. This is due in
part to the pressure expanding the
inner channel, driving small amounts
of trapped air out of the braiding
between the tube and cover. This is
normal and is not a concern, as long as
the system pressure does not drop.
Manifold
Pressure Test Kit
Pressure Gauge
Union
Drain
Schraeder Valve
Appendix
torque wrench according to the
torque settings shown on the instruc-
tion sheet that comes with the
clamps.
Do not use a screw gun or wrench
to tighten TorqueTite clamps.
Safety glasses must be worn if
using SelfTite Clamps.
When making a buried slab repair,
protect the final splice assembly with a
double wrap of PVC electrician s tape
or plastic shrink wrap.
Pressure Test
After the Onix and manifolds have
been installed, it is time to pressure
test each zone. Individual test kits may
be field constructed or a factory sup-
plied kit may be used. The following
directions are specially directed to the
use of Watts Radiant test kits, although
the general principles remain the same
for field-built units.
Attach the pressure test kit to the man-
ifolds. Watts Radiant manifolds and
test kits with optional unions, can easi-
ly be hand tightened to hold up to 100
psi. Make certain the rubber O-ring is
properly seated before threading the
unions together.
One half of the Watts Radiant test kit
has a Schraeder valve (air valve) on
side A. The other half, side B, has a
pressure gauge. Fill the system (air or