User Manual

HOW CAN I CONTROL THATCH?
• First, correct any practices listed on the left that
may be adding to the problem.
• De-thatch Your Lawn ––
The best times to de-thatch are late summer and early fall.
It’s easiest to de-thatch when the ground and grass are
slightly moist. Before you de-thatch, mow your lawn at a
slightly lower height. It’s best to make at least two passes
over your lawn, and even better if you use a different
pattern each time. After de-thatching, sweep or rake up
the debris. Now is a good time to fertilize lightly, and water
the lawn.
• Aerate ––
While de-thatching removes thatch, aeration helps break
down the thatch layer. Aeration is less traumatic for your
lawn, and is best for controlling thatch before it gets too
out of hand. (See below to learn the difference between
plug and spike aerators.)
• Adjust Soil pH ––
If your soil chemistry is off, your grass will be weak and
more likely to create (and suffer from) excess thatch. It’s
easy to test soil chemistry with a do-it-yourself kit from
your garden center. If your soil’s too acidic, add lime; too
alkaline, add sulfur. Use a drop spreader for either additive,
and apply according to label directions.
AERATING
When you aerate your lawn, you are essentially punching
holes in the soil surface. This helps loosen compacted soil and
helps more air, water and nutrients to reach the roots. The
best time to aerate is in the spring at the start of the growing
season. Late summer or fall aeration can also be benecial.
Plug vs. Spike Aerators
A plug aerator actually pulls out small plugs of grass and soil.
A spike or blade aerator cuts deep grooves in the soil. Both
types are benecial, but there are differences. Plug aerators
are more disruptive and messier, but are more thorough for
a lawn that needs attention. Spike aerators are less invasive,
and the process lets the grass recover more quickly. These
machines are best for regular maintenance.
THATCH
Thatch is a layer of dead organic matter that exists between
the soil and the leaves of the grass plant.
THE GOOD NEWS . . .
A little thatch is natural in any lawn. And the right amount
can actually help the grass and the soil, by protecting roots
from heat and sun damage while creating an environment for
benecial soil and surface organisms.
AND THE BAD NEWS . . .
Too much thatch can mean problems. A thick layer of thatch
blocks the movement of air and nutrients to the soil. Grass
roots often migrate from the soil up into the thatch, where
they become weak and fall victim to extreme heat or cold,
as well as disease and pests. (And when roots die off, they
add even more thatch to the layer!) Too much thatch can
exaggerate moisture problems as well, holding too much
moisture during a wet season and repelling water during a
dry season.
WHAT CAUSES THATCH?
Very often, too much thatch can be traced back to well-
intentioned actions on the part of the homeowner. Watering,
fertilizing, weed and pest control are all important in
moderation, but can result in the development of excess
thatch.
Here’s why:
Over fertilizing: Too much growth leads to weak roots
and excess lawn debris. In addition, too much nitrogen can
be harmful to the organisms that naturally control thatch
buildup.
Over watering: Too much constant moisture creates a
low-oxygen environment that is harmful to soil organisms.
Shallow, frequent watering: This practice can cause
roots to move up into the thatch to reach the water source.
(It’s best to water infrequently and deeply, only when your
lawn really needs it.)
Herbicides and Pesticides: While controlling harmful
pests and weeds, using too much of these chemicals can harm
the overall ecosystem in your lawn, killing off earthworms and
soil microbes.
The Importance Of De-thatching And Aerating.
Specications subject to change without notice or obligation. 25