Installation Guidelines

INSTALLING THE FLOOR
Required Tools and Accessories for Nail and Glue down Installations:
Please refer to the National Wood Flooring Association’s Technical Publication N0. A300 Tools of the Trade.
“What Contractors Need for Hardwood Flooring Installation”.
GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION
NAIL-DOWN INSTALLATION
 Place your starter row (groove side) against the backer board. Next, blind fasten the fastener into the
fastening slot located towards the back of the top side of the tongue, making sure to follow the
required fastening schedule for the fastener being used (see fastening schedule). Continue to install
each row of flooring offsetting the end joints a minimum of 6 to 8 inches. Note: Upon completion of the
installation the end joints should take on a random/staggered appearance.
Control Environment: Meter the moisture content level of the flooring again and make sure it has stabilized
with the surrounding controlled environment based on 35 to 55 percent relative humidity and 60 to 80
Fahrenheit. NOTE: An uncontrolled environment can/will lead to the following conditions:
Shrinkage/gapping, cupping, warping, twisting, buckling, checking, splitting, compression stress,
blisters due to urethane shear, wear-layer and/or inner ply separation, and any/all previously
mentioned issues/concerns, and/or failure types… NOTE: We will not warrant any/all damages caused
by moisture/atmospheric related causes/conditions.
Undercut Door Casings and Jambs: Undercut all door casings and jambs 1/16” higher than the thickness of
the “finished” flooring being installed. You can achieve this by using a hand jamb saw using a piece of the
flooring as your height gage or use an adjustable power jamb saw adjusted to the appropriate height.
Box Rule (3-5): Before beginning the actual installation, provide proper layout of flooring by working out of
multiple boxes of material (3 to 5) is recommended in order to achieve a more uniform color tone, and grain
appearance throughout the installation.
Blending Rule: Where wood flooring transitions into support moldings (i.e. stair treads, stair nosing’s, reducer’s,
T-molds, end-caps etc.) pick boards that better blend to the color tone of the molding to avoid a drastic change
in color tones between the trim molding and the floor. Your goal is to gradually transition into the molding’s color
tone so as to avoid a distinct color variance between the wood floor and the trim moldings. NOTE: Failure to
abide by these guidelines (where the floor was installed prior to the delivery of the stair nose trims, or the flooring
and stair nose trims color tones were NOT properly blended), which results in a mismatch in color tones between
the flooring and the stair nose trims, which results in rejection by the end-user, will not be warranted by us. We
WIIL NOT be responsible for the replacement costs for the trims, and/or the labor to remove and reinstall new
trims.
Expansion Space: Allow at least (1/2”minimum) of expansion space at all wall and vertical obstructions.
Expansion space will be concealed using baseboard and quarter round trims. NOTE: Wood flooring will change
in size according to changes in ambient conditions (i.e., temperature and relative humidity) found within the
structure throughout different times of the year. Insufficient expansion space can result in cupping, buckling,
blisters, edge crush, delamination, damage to cabinets and/or the structure, cracking, splits and
checking in the flooring. We will not warrant any damages caused by improper installation.
Lightweight Concrete: For installations over lightweight concrete slabs always consult with the adhesive
manufacturer prior to beginning installation, as they can/will offer instruction on how to properly prep the surface
of the substrate so as to avoid a potential de-bonding failure. Always follow the adhesive manufacturer’s
recommendations/requirements for proper use.
IMPORTANT: Be sure not to over-drive the fastener beyond the fastener slot as this can/will lead to a condition
known as telegraphing fasteners. A telegraphing fastener is the visible effect of excessive pressure being placed
on the wood fibers which causes the appearance of a bump to occur on the surface of the board just above the
fastener(s). This condition becomes most apparent when natural or artificial light reflects across the surface of
the floor causing the bump to become visible. This condition can sometimes be difficult to see, so make sure to
thoroughly examine the first few rows of flooring to make certain telegraphing does not exist. We do not
warrant against said type condition as telegraphing is not the result of a manufacturing related defect.
However, in the event that you encounter said type condition immediately stop the installation and contact our
Technical Department and/or the manufacturer of the nailer for technical advice. NOTE: It is essential that the
flooring installer makes sure that the nailer/stapler is properly adjusted for the particular floor being installed i.e.
the fastener(s) MUST enter the fastener slot at the correct angle and height, do not over-drive the fastener(s), by
doing so can/will cause irreversible damage to the board in the form of: telegraphing fasteners, bumps along the
side edge of the planks, broken or split tongues, squeaking, or crackling noises to occur.
Fastener Gage: ¼” crown 18 gage staples by 1 ½” long for flooring thicknesses 3/8” up to 1/2”. For 9/16” to 5/8”
thick flooring, use 18-gage cleats 1 ½” to 1 ¾” long.
Fastener Length: For installation over raised foundations the fastener must be 1-1/2” to 1 ¾” long.
Fastener Schedule: Required fastening schedule for ¼” 18-gage staples is 1 to 2 inches from the boards’ ends
and then every 3 to 4 inches thereafter. For 18-gage cleats, place the fasteners 2 inches from the boards’ ends
and then every 4 to 5 inches thereafter. Failure to follow required fastening schedule can/will result
in squeaky board/floor syndrome, which will not be covered under our warranty program.
Starting Line & Expansion Space: Snap a working line parallel to the starting wall in multiples of the planks
width, plus an expansion space of ¾” preferable to ½” minimum to set up the base baseline of installation. Be
careful to assure you do NOT end up with a width of less than 2 inches at the final opposing wall. .If you
determine your rip piece will be less than 2” adjust by ripping down the width of the first row. Note: For questions
on how to square out a room, contact our technical department .
Be careful to assure you do NOT end up with a width of less than 2 inches at the final opposing wall Note: For
questions on how to square out a room, contact our technical department.
Backer Board: Install a backer board along your initial starting line, this will provide needed support for the first
3 to 4 feet of flooring installation. NOTE: Backer boards can be made from ½” to ¾” (MDF) Medium Density Fiber
Board cut into pieces 4 or 5 inch wide, by 8-feet long. Secure the backer board to the sub-floor using the
appropriate length fasteners (i.e., 1 ¼” long deck screws for raised foundation applications and 1 ¼” long Tap
Con screws for applications over concrete slabs) being careful not to exceed the thickness of the raised
foundation sub floor. CAUTION: PRIOR TO DRILLING INTO A CONCRETE SLAB, MAKE CERTAIN THERE
ARE NO PIPED RUNING THROUGH THE SLAB…ALSO, MAKE SURE THE SLAB DOES NOT CONTAIN
POST TENSION CABLES… After securing the backer board to the starting line spread out the recommended
amount of adhesive (per the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendation) to the sub-floor surface and then place
your starting row boards into the adhesive one at a time, tongue facing the backer board making sure to seat the
board into the adhesive according to the adhesive manufacturer’s directions/specifications. Continue to install
each row of flooring offsetting the end joints a minimum of 6 to 8 inches, and make sure doing the installation
that you watch out for any H-Joint patterns. Also, when installing the individual boards place the tongue into
grove, this method of installation will help to prevent glue from being scooped up and into the grove resulting in
glue squeeze out between the board(s) seams and a lot of unnecessary work removing glue from the surface of
the floor. NOTE: To keep the planks from moving, and the seams from opening, use 3M Scotch Blue tape #
2080EL applying the tape perpendicular to the direction of the grain, over-lapping the seams as you go. Once
the adhesive has dried, (typically within 24-hrs) remove the tape by grabbing the corner edge of the tape and
pull the tape at a 45 degree angle making sure that your hand remains in contact with the surface of the floor as
you remove the tape. CAUTION…DO NOT PULL THE TAPE STRAIGHT UP AND OFF OF THE FLOOR AS
THIS CAN/WILL RELEASE THE URETHANE FINISH FROM THE FLOORS SURFACE.
Foot Traffic: Limit foot traffic on the newly installed wood flooring according to the adhesive manufacturer’s
recommendations.
IMPORTANT:
We do not recommend and/or condone the use of water/acrylic base adhesives. The installer
understands that by using such adhesives may void any/all warranties offered by us.
Adhesive: Use a high quality urethane base adhesive and moisture vapor protection system as per the
preparation/application requirements set forth by the adhesive manufacturer. Adhesive manufacturers’
may offer moisture emission warranty coverage subject to their installation and job-site
recommendations. Always follow the recommendations/requirement as set forth in the adhesive
manufacturer’s installation guidelines as the adhesive manufacturer will have detailed information on
testing, preparation, proper trowel size/configuration, application and cleaning procedures. Failure to
follow the recommended/required guidelines can/will result in loss of warranty coverage by both the
adhesive manufacturer and us.
Starting Line & Expansion Space: Snap a working line parallel to the starting wall in multiples of the planks
width, including an expansion space of ¾” preferably to ½” minimum to set up the base baseline for installation.