Installation Guide

CONCRETE SUBFLOOR:
New Construction:
• A new concrete floor must dry at least 1 week per 3/8 inch thickness up to 1-1/2 inches. Thicknesses over 1-1/2 inches require twice as much
drying time. For example, a 2-1/2 inch concrete subfloor must dry for at least 8 weeks. The moisture content must be less than 2.5% (CM method)
or less than 5 lbs/24 hour per 1000 sq ft (Calcium chloride method ASTM 1869).
Renovation:
• Remove any damp-porous floor covering (carpet, needle felt, etc.) first.
• Damp-sealed floor covering (PVC, linoleum, VCT, etc.) does not have to be removed.
• Always use underlayment and a minimum 6 mil poly moisture barrier.
WOODEN SUBFLOOR
• Remove any existing damp-porous floor covering first.
• Make sure the sub floor is stable. Nail down any loose parts and apply a leveling layer if necessary.
• Install the panels crosswise to the direction of the existing subfloor.
• It is necessary that the crawl space under the plank floor is sufficiently ventilated. Remove any obstacles and provide sufficient ventilation
(minimum 1-1/2 inches) of total ventilation holes per 40 feet of floor. The moisture content of the wood may not exceed 12%.
INSTALLING THE FLOOR
• First install the underlayment, per width and gradually as you progress. If the underlayment is pre-mounted on the panels, then only use the damp-
proof moisture barrier with adhesive tape as provided. For Concrete, let the membrane run up the wall a bit before cutting to size. For wood, cut the
moisture barrier 1 inch from the wall. A molding will be attached to this later. See diagram 3A.
• Begin the first row with a whole plank. First saw off the tongue on both the long and the short sides. See diagram 3B.
• Put the plank with sawn off sides against the walls. Put spacers from the installation kit between the planks and the wall. This will ensure that your
expansion joint is wide enough: 5/16 inch to 3/8 inch. See diagram 3C.
• The diagrams indicate where the panels are clicked together by angling up and down or where they are tapped together flat. Follow the diagrams
precisely. See diagrams 4A - 4F. For a more pleasing appearance, the floor should be installed with a staggered random length for the starting
planks in each row. Be careful not to create a repeating pattern. For example, start the first row with a whole plank, second row with 1/3 of a plank,
third row with 2/3 of a plank, then a whole, then 1/2, then 1/4, then back to whole, then short, then medium, etc. Alternating the length of the
starting plank on each row will avoid creating a zigzag or stair step pattern in the floor.
• In places where it is too difficult to install the planks with the tapping block (e.g. against the wall), you can tap them together using the pull bar and
a hammer. See diagrams 5A-5B-5C.
• There must also be a 5/16 inch to 3/8 inch expansion joint between the last row and the wall. Keep this in mind when sawing the last row of panels.
INSTALLATION IN WET AREAS
Since prolonged water exposure could damage your laminate flooring, the following installation recommendations should be closely followed to
validate your residential water warranty. Wet areas would include, but not limited to, bathrooms, powder rooms, kitchens, mud rooms, foyers, and
laundry rooms. Neither flooring panels nor accessories are recommended for extreme humid applications. The water warranty excludes all products
thinner than 5/16 inch and does not apply to beveled edge products when used in bathrooms. An expansion area of 5/16 inch - 3/8 inch must be
provided around all vertical obstructions including walls, permanent cabinets, pipes, etc. All perimeter expansion areas must be completely filled in
with a water repellent flexible silicone sealant. When applying sealant, it is helpful to first apply a strip of masking tape parallel to and approximately
1/32 inch from the edge of the flooring. Then fill the expansion area with sealant, remove any excess with a plastic scraper or putty knife, then
remove the tape. Let dry for 24 hours before exposure to water.
PIPES
In rows where there is a pipe, make sure the pipe falls exactly in line with the short side of two panels. Take a drill bit with the same diameter as the
pipe plus ¾ inch for the expansion. Click the panels together on the short side and drill a hole centered on the joint between the two panels. Now
you can install the panels in the floor. See diagrams 6A-6B-6C.
UNDER DOORFRAMES
When sawing the panels, ensure that the expansion joint under the door is at least 3/8 inch. If you cannot lift the panel, use an adapted tapping block
or pull bar and hammer to tap the panels together with the planks flat on the floor. See diagrams 7A-7B.
FINISHING
• Remove all spacers.