Installation Guide

BEFORE YOU BEGIN...
READ INSTRUCTIONS FIRST
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
hacksaw
adjustable
wrench (10")
tube cutter
basin wrench
level
REMOVING YOUR OLD
LAVATORY
INSTALLING YOUR NEW
LAVATORY
pipe wrench (12")
Installation Instructions
Cornice
Pedestal
Lavatory
If you are installing your lavatory in a new or
remodeled bathroom, you should make sure that
you are in compliance with all local plumbing codes.
The rough-in information, available on page 2 of
these instructions or at www.americanstandard.com,
will be helpful in placing the lavatory, water supply
piping, shut-off valves and drain in their proper
positions.
1. Turn off the water supply. This is done by closing
the two shut-off valves located under the lavatory.
If there are no shut-off valves leading to the lavatory,
you must turn off the water at the main valve. This is
usually located in the basement, garage or near the
foundation on the outside of the house. It may also be
near the water meter.
Check to be sure the water is off by turning on the
faucet where you are working until the water stops
flowing.
If you have shut off the main valve in a two-story
house or greater, you should open the kitchen faucet
and another faucet on the same level. Water will then
drain from the entire line. This will help avoid spills.
Be sure to close the faucets before you turn on the
main valve again.
2. Disconnect the drain pipes. Take off as many
sections as possible between the lavatory and the
wall or floor to facilitate removal.
Place a basin under the work area to catch any water
that may still be in the drain.
3. Before removing anything else, check to see if the
pipes in the wall are providing support for the lavatory.
If this is the case, use care in removing the faucet
connections. The lavatory may fall once the faucet is
disconnected, so have a helper hold it up while you
work.
Detach the faucet from the shut-off valves by
unscrewing the compression nut at the joints between
the valves and the water supply tubes.
If the connection is corroded you may need to cut off
the nut with a hacksaw. If there is no nut or shut-off
valve, use a tube cutter or hacksaw to separate the
faucet from the water supply tubes.
Keep the basin and sponge handy for water that
remains in the pipe and faucet.
4. Determine how the lavatory is mounted. Especially
notice if there is a good structural support for wall
mounting. See step 5 for bracing instructions, if
required.
If there is a wall bracket at the back, you might be
able to lift the lavatory off. It may be heavy, so have a
helper lend a hand. A floor mounted lavatory can be
removed by lifting it off of the pedestal or legs after
first detaching any wall-mount fittings.
5. If you are installing the lavatory in a new or
substantially remodeled bathroom, refer to the
rough-in drawings for locations of shut-off valves and
drain. The inlets of the shut-off valves should match
the size of the piping in the house and the outlets
should match the water supply tubes you will run to
the faucet. The latter are usually 1/2" I.P.S. tubing.
You should also install shut-off valves if there were
none in the existing bathroom or if the old ones are
unserviceable or unsightly.
A cross brace is required to provide a solid mounting
support for the new lavatory. Check to be sure there
is one in the existing bathroom. If not, use a saw and
chisel to mortise a 2" x 4" board across at least two of
the vertical 2" x 4" wall studs on each wall of the
corner as shown in FIGURE 1. Nail both boards
securely into place.
The centerline of the cross braces should be
29-3/4"up from the floor on both walls.
6. Hangers provided with the lavatory should be
mounted 11" from the corner and 29-3/4" up from
the floor on each wall (see FIGURE 2). Tighten the
hangers, center slot only, until they will support the
lavatory, leaving "play" for final adjustment later.
Make sure hanger is in highest position when
snugging hanger. Set the lavatory in place.
7. Position the pedestal leg by using the recess
indentation on the underside of the lavatory as a
guide. The back side of the leg should be vertical
and away from the wall surface. See FIGURE 3.
Mark the location of the hole(s) in the bottom of the
leg. Remove the leg, then drill the starter hole(s)
as marked. These hole(s) should be 1-1/2" deep.
Insert a plastic expansion shield into each hole(s)
if required.
You can determine which tools and materials are
necessary by reading the complete installation
instructions and examining the job you have to do.
These are normally needed:
sponge
basin or pail
tape measure
flat blade screwdriver
emery cloth
hammer and nails
saber saw or keyhole saw
drill
chisel
cardboard, newspapers or a dropcloth
2" x 4" x 48" lumber
screws
3/4" washers
expansion or anchor plugs
bathroom caulking
These are optional, in case existing
materials are unusable:
two shut-off valves with 1/2" I.P.S. outlet,
optional (check house piping to determine
valve inlet dimenstion.)
1/2" I.P.S. hot and cold water supply tubes
with compression nut and ferrule
drain tail pipe, trap and additional drain pipe
as required
29-3/4"
(756mm)
FLOOR
FIGURE 1
29-3/4"
(756mm)
FC-071-1102
29-3/4"
(756mm)
29-3/4"
(756mm)
11"
(279mm)
11"
(279mm)
WALL
WALL
FLOOR
FIGURE 2
FIGURE 3
FLOOR
WALL WALL
ANCHOR
SCREWS
(2)-PEDESTAL BASE
(1)-LAVA BACK