Installation & Assembly

ManualsBrandsAmerican Tin Ceilings ManualsCeiling Tiles2 ft. x 2 ft. Nail-up Tin Ceiling Tile in Silver - Unfinished/No Coating

Installation Guide

Installation videos available online at:

www.AmericanTinCeilings.com/videos

• Ladder or scaffolding

• Tape measure

• Putty knife

• Drill

• 1/2” drill bit

• Aviation shears

• Chalk box

• Fine point Sharpie

• Paint sticks (for shims)

• Straight edge

• Cordless screw gun

• #6 drywall screws

• Hammer

• Safety glasses

• Gloves

If you have any questions, please call:

1-888-231-7500 or visit us online at

www.AmericanTinCeilings.com

SNAP LOCK

™

CEILING INSTALLATION

Preparing Your Ceiling for SNAP LOCK ™ Installation:

1. Your starting point on the ceiling can be any corner of the room.

2. Measure the width of your tile and add a 1/2” to 3/4” to your measurement.

3. Mark the ceiling with the measurement from Step #2 in the corner of your room.

4. Repeat Steps #1 - #3 on an opposite corner but NOT a diagonal corner to your ﬁrst measurement.

5. Snap a chalk line from those two measuring points. This will provide the proper alignment for your panels.

Installing Your SNAP LOCK ™ Tiles:

1. Attach the ﬁrst ceiling panel to the corner of the ceiling with the male ﬂanges facing the wall, allowing a 1/2” space

from the wall (use #6 drywall screws that are 1 1/4” in length to attach the panel to the ceiling). This insures that the

panels remain straight, even in rooms that are not perfectly square. Install your ﬁrst panel as squarely as possible. Start

with the male ﬂange facing the wall so that the screw plate on the female ﬂange is always exposed as you progress. In

most cases when installing a 24” pattern, ﬁller panels will be needed because of the deep proﬁle embossment of the

panels. For example, if your room is 11’ x 13’, you would install your ﬁeld panels in a 10’ x 12’ area in the center of the

room and then install 12” of ﬁller panels around the perimeter. This creates a uniform look and allows your molding to

sit ﬂush with the ceiling, as it is overlapping the ﬁller panels.

2. After installing your ﬁrst row, snap a chalk line for the second row at 24 1/8”. Slip the male ﬂange into the female

ﬂange on the second row, making sure before attachment to leave no more than a 1/16” gap between the two. You may

ﬁnd it helpful to have a putty knife handy to open the female ﬂange. Note: If you try to force your panels too tight, the

corners will eventually form a gap and you will have no way to keep your pattern aligned. Continue to work your way

across the ceiling in rows until you reach the end of the room, as well as the opposing wall.

3. If you have light ﬁxtures you will need to lay them out on the back of the ceiling panel as you

reach them. Measure from the edge of your ceiling tile and mark out your ceiling ﬁxture place-

ment. Drill a hole in the center of the layout, then use tin snips to cut away the material. You can

do this by either cutting at 90 degrees to the lay out mark, then cutting the perimeter mark out, or

by cutting a spiral to your layout mark (cutting in a circle). You can now install your beauty rings

for the lights.

4. When approaching the perimeter of your room you will have to cut the female ﬂange off. You will need to shim this

partial panel using a paint stick before screwing it to the ceiling. This will prevent the tile from being pulled too tight to

the ceiling, creating a gap.

5. Now you are ready to install the crown molding (please refer to the molding installation instructions on pages 8-9).

TOOL/SUPPLIES REQUIRED: