Installation Guide

Expansion Space: Allow at least (1/2”minimum) of expansion space at all wall and vertical obstructions. Expansion space will be concealed using
baseboard and quarter round trim. Wood flooring will change in size according to changes in the ambient conditions of the structure (i.e. temperature
and relative humidity levels). Insufficient expansion space can result in cupping, buckling, blisters, edge crush, delamination, cracking, splits
and checking in the flooring. Manufacturer will not warrant any damages caused by improper installation.
Lightweight Concrete: For installations over lightweight concrete slabs always consult with the adhesive manufacturer prior to beginning installation,
as they will be able to offer instruction on how to properly prep the surface of the substrate so as to avoid a potential de-bonding failure. Always follow
the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations/requirements for proper use.
GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION
IMPORTANT:
Manufacturer does not recommend and/or condone the use of water/acrylic base adhesives. The installer understands that by using such
adhesives voids any/all warranties offered by Manufacturer.
Adhesive: Use a high quality adhesive and moisture vapor protection system where needed. Adhesive manufacturer’s may offer moisture
emission warranty coverage subject to their installation and job-site recommendations. Always follow the recommendations/requirement as
set forth in the adhesive manufacturer’s installation guidelines as the adhesive manufacturer will have detailed information on testing,
preparation, application and cleaning procedures. Failure to follow the recommended/required guidelines can/will result in loss of warranty
coverage by both the adhesive and wood flooring manufacturers’.
Starting Line & Expansion Space: Snap a working line parallel to the starting wall, in multiples of the planks width, plus an expansion space of ¾”
preferably to ½” minimum to set up the base baseline of installation. Be careful to assure you do NOT end up with a width of less than 2 inches at the
final opposing wall. If so, adjust by ripping down the width of the first row.
Backer Board: Install a backer board along your initial starting line, this will provide needed support for the first 3 to 4 feet of flooring installation.
Backer boards are typically made from ½” to ¾” (MDF) Medium Density Fiber Board cut into pieces 4 or 5 inch wide by 8-feet long. Secure the backer
board to the sub floor using the appropriate length fasteners (deck screws for raised foundation applications and Tap Con screws for applications over
concrete slabs) being careful not to exceed the thickness of the raised foundation sub floor. After securing the backer board to the starting line spread
out the recommended amount of adhesive (per the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendation) to the sub floor surface and then place your starting row
boards into the adhesive one at a time, tongue facing the backer board making sure to seat the board into the adhesive according to the adhesive
manufacturer’s directions/specifications. Continue to install each row of flooring offsetting the end joints a minimum of 6 to 8 inches. Also, when
installing the individual boards place the tongue into grove, this method of installation will help to prevent glue from being scooped up and into the
grove resulting in glue squeeze out between the board(s) seams and a lot of unnecessary work removing glue from the surface of the floor. To keep
the planks from moving and the seams from opening, use 3M Scotch Blue tape # 2080EL applying the tape perpendicular to the direction of the grain.
Foot Traffic: Limit foot traffic on the newly installed wood flooring according to the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations.
NAIL-DOWN INSTALLATION
IMPORTANT: Be sure not to over-drive the fastener beyond the fastener slot as this can lead to a condition known as a telegraphing fastener. A
telegraphing fastener is the visible effect of excessive pressure being placed on the wood fibers which causes the appearance of a bump to occur on
the surface of the board just above the fastener(s). This condition becomes most apparent when natural or artificial light reflects across the surface of
the floor causing the bump to become visible to the eye. This condition can sometimes be difficult to see, so make sure to thoroughly examine the first
few rows of flooring to make certain telegraphing does not exist. Manufacturer does not warrant against said type condition as telegraphing is not the
result of a manufacturing related defect. However, in the event that you encounter this condition immediately stop the installation and contact
Manufacturer’s Technical Department and/or the manufacturer of the nailer for technical advice. Note: It is essential that the flooring installer makes
sure that the nailer/stapler is properly adjusted for the particular floor being installed i.e. the fastener(s) MUST enter the fastener slot at the correct
angle and height, do not over-drive the fastener(s), by doing so can/will cause irreversible damage to the board in the form of: telegraphing fasteners,
broken or split tongues, peaking, squeaking, or crackling noises to occur.
Fastener Gage: ¼” 18 gage staple for flooring thicknesses 3/8” up to 9/16”.
Fastener Length: For installation over raised foundations the fastener must be 1-1/2” long.
Fastener Schedule: Required fastening schedule is 1 to 2 inches from the boards’ ends and then 3 to 4 inches thereafter. Failure to follow required
fastening schedule can/will result in squeaky board/floor syndrome.
Starting Line & Expansion Space: Snap a working line parallel to the starting wall in multiples of the planks width, plus an expansion space of ¾”
preferable to ½” minimum to set up the base baseline of installation. Be careful to assure you do NOT end up with a width of less than 2 inches at the
final opposing wall. If so, adjust by ripping down the width of the first row.
§ Place your starter row (groove side) against the backer board. Next, blind fasten the fastener into the fastening slot located towards the back
of the top side of the tongue, making sure to follow the required fastening schedule for the fastener being used (see fastening schedule).
Continue to install each row of flooring offsetting the end joints a minimum of 6 to 8 inches. Note: Upon completion of the installation the end
joints should take on a random/staggered appearance.
§ When you can no longer use the fastening device, you can install the last few boards by placing carpenters glue in the groove (being careful
not to over glue). Then engage the tongue and groove until the side and end-joints are fully engaged. The final step is to fasten the board to
the sub-floor by use a brad nailer in 18-gage. Place the brad approximately ½” from the side joint you just glued. The brads should be placed
approximately 1 to 2” from the board ends and 6 to 8” thereafter. Note: Brad nails should be at least 1 ½” long.
FLOATING ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING
NOTE: Manufacturer does not recommend floating a 3/8” product because of its inherent lightness and inability to lie as flat as a thicker
floor.