Install Instructions
Residenal Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide • 23
TROUBLESHOOTING
rarely, the lower thermostat) is not
working, you will have some hot water
but not as much as before. Because
the lower element does most of the
work, the lower element usually wears
out before the upper element. Replace
the lower element and/or thermostat
if necessary (see page 26-27).
If the water temperature is too hot:
• Install or adjust the Thermostac
Mixing Valves for each point-of-use
(see manufacturer’s instrucons), or
• Adjust the thermostat(s) on the wa-
ter heater (see Step 10 in the installa-
on secon of this manual).
A nonfunconing thermostat or a
shorted heang element can cause ex-
tremely hot water. If the Temperature
and Pressure Relief Valve (T&P Valve)
releases large amounts of very hot
water, it is likely due to a shorted heat-
ing element, or more rarely a nonfunc-
oning thermostat, or the thermostat
does not t snuggly against the tank.
Very high water temperatures can also
cause the Energy Cut O (ECO) to trip
(see page 27). Turn power o unl this
problem is xed.
Check both the cold and hot water at a
sink to determine if the lower pressure
is only on the hot water side. If both hot
and cold faucets have low pressure, call
your local water ulity. If the low pres-
sure is only on the hot water side, the
primary causes of this are:
• Melted heat traps or dip tube. Solder-
ing copper pipes while they are con-
nected to the water heater can melt
the heat traps inside the hot and cold
water connecons or the dip tube
(cold water side). Melted heat traps or
a melted dip tube can restrict the ow
of hot water. If that’s the case, replace
the heat traps or dip tube.
• Parally closed supply valve. Open
the water heater’s supply valve fully.
A small amount of water dripping from
the Temperature and Pressure (T&P)
Relief Valve usually means the home’s
water pressure is too high or you need
a properly sized and pressurized Ther-
mal Expansion Tank. Refer to Step 1 in
the Installaon secon of this manual
for more informaon. A large amount
of hot water coming from the T&P
discharge pipe may be due to the tank
overheang.
High water
pressure can cause the T&P Relief
Valve to drip. Install a Pressure Reduc-
ing Valve (PRV) on the main cold water
supply line. Adjust the PRV to between
50 and 60 psi.
Install a
Thermal Expansion Tank. If a Thermal
Expansion Tank is already installed and
the T&P Relief Valve discharge pipe
drips, the Thermal Expansion Tank may
be pressurized to the wrong pres-
sure or the internal bladder may be
defecve. Refer to the instrucons that
came with the Thermal Expansion Tank
for more informaon.
In rare cases, debris can sck
inside the T&P Relief Valve prevenng
the valve from seang fully. In that
case, the T&P Relief Valve discharge
pipe will drip. You may be able to clear
debris from the T&P Relief Valve by
manually operang the valve, allow-
ing small quanes of water to ush
out the debris. Refer to the T&P Relief
Maintenance secon of this manual.
-
-
If the water pressure is between 50
and 60 psi, a Thermal Expansion Tank
is installed and properly pressurized,
and the valve has been cleared of any
debris, and it sll drips, the valve may
be broken—have a qualied person
replace the T&P relief valve.
Harmless bacteria normally present in
tap water can mulply in water heat-
ers and give o a “roen egg” smell.
Although eliminang the bacteria that
causes “smelly water” with a Chlorina-
on system is the only sure treatment,
in some cases, the standard anode
rod that came with your water heater
can be replaced with a special zinc
anode rod which may help reduce or
eliminate the odor. Contact a qualied
person.
To protect the tank, an anode rod
must be installed in the water heater at
all mes or the warranty is void.
In cases where the “roen egg” smell
is pronounced, you can raise the tank
temperature to 140°F in order to re-
duce bacteria growth in the tank.
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TROUBLESHOOTING