Specifications

Chalet 1800 Ins 16
4. If you are using a 6” outside dimension Stainless Steel liner (since this is a concealed area do
not use “black” or “galvanized” pipe), the liner will slip right into the flue collar and can be at-
tached into the three pre-punched flue collar holes or the two supplied angle brackets and the
front flue collar hole may be used. NOTE: In some cases you may need to use some rigid
components like elbows or a transition box to make the connection from the liner to the insert
(contact venting component supplier for availability and information). Or you may have to use
an ovalized section of liner or remove some brick from the back wall of the smoke shelf.
Please check with the Authority having Jurisdiction before using some of these components
or doing this type of work to make sure this is compliant in your area.
5. If the firebox floor is “dropped”, screw in the supplied leveling bolts before installing the insert.
Put a level from the top of the hearth to the back of the firebox and measure how high the
drop is, in the area at the back of the firebox where the insert leveling bolts are. Push the in-
sert into position in the fireplace opening. When you start sliding the insert back over the drop
floor, reach under the insert and start to unscrew the leveling legs to the
height that is needed to make the insert sit level when it is in it’s final
resting place.
6. If the fireplace opening is high enough for you to get into the top of the insert, then you can
reach in and get the liner and fit it into the flue collar and mechanically attach it. If the room is
not there, then install the optional flex to rigid adaptor on the end of the liner, slip in the cross
bar and screw on the two nuts according to manufacturers instructions, and finish the liner to
the same height as the finished insert height and push it up out of the way before installing
the insert
7. Remove the Secondary Air Tubes and Baffle Plates from the insert. After installing the insert
into the firebox reach in through the flue collar and grab the cross bar on the liner adapter and
pull down.
8. Take the “hook” piece out of the kit and hook it over the cross bar and then take the longer
crossbar with the nut in the middle and put the hook through the nut and tighten that assem-
bly to the bottom of the insert.
10. Go back to the top of the chimney and seal off the top of the chimney and liner with the
manufacturers terminations. NOTE: More reasons for insulating the liner and sealing it at the
top is that it will stop down drafts when the appliance is not operating and keeps room air
from entering the chimney cavity. When it is raining on the metal flashing or raincap, the insu-
lation deadens the sound. The insulation stops condensation from forming on the bottom of
the metal flashing and dripping down the chimney and sometimes right on top of the insert.
12. Back inside, if necessary, reinstall the bricks, secondary air tubes and ceramic baffle plates.
13. Finish by installing the faceplate/trim and door and the optional blower if ordered.
Leveling Bolts
FLEX TO RIGID ADAPTOR