Download this book for free at http://www.TheArgusA.
Preface For the sake of expediency, any Argus A- or A2-type camera will henceforth be referred to simply as “an Argus.” The author realizes that Argus manufacturers produced various types of cameras and that, if mentioned in casual conversation, the word Argus will probably conjure the image of the far more popular C3, not an A or A2.
Edition of 5 June 2004 © Copyright 2004 Hrad Kuzyk All Rights Reserved. Download this book for free at http://www.TheArgusA.
Table of Contents CHAPTER SUBJECT 1 WHY THE ARGUS A/A2 CAMERA? 2 HISTORY 3 MODELS AND VARIATIONS 4 PARTS OF THE CAMERA 5 USER’S GUIDE 6 ACCESSORIES 7 RESTORATION AND REPAIR 8 TRICKS AND MODIFICATIONS 9 FINDING AN ARGUS IN GOOD SHAPE 10 FURTHER READING APPENDIX A ARGUS A PATENT APPENDIX B BIBLIOGRAPHY AND REFERENCES Download this book for free at http://www.TheArgusA.
1 Why the Argus A/A2 Camera? Why should anyone be interested in a camera whose latest model has been out of production for over 50 years? Certainly not for ease of use. Point-and-shoot cameras made today are far more user-friendly. Not for quality of the lens or accuracy of the shutter. Both were fine for an amateur in their day and age, but are now easily surpassed. Not for the additional features. The Argus doesn’t have double-exposure protection, available on even disposable cameras these days.
May 1937 Download this book for free at http://www.TheArgusA.
2 History The concept of a compact 35mm camera was born in the early 1920s. It was then that Oscar Barnack of E. Leitz, Inc. developed a portable and accurate camera based on readily available 35mm film, then the standard for the movie industry. This camera, the Leica, took the world of amateur photography by storm from the day of its introduction in 1925 at the Leipzig Fair.
IRC’s engineers had extensive experience molding Bakelite and took advantage of this knowledge in designing the body of the Argus. Bakelite allowed the camera body to be cheaply decorated with a distinct Art Deco flair. Gustave Fassin, an engineer for IRC, is generally believed to have designed the Argus, though the patent is credited to Verschoor and makes no mention of Fassin. The Argus, priced at only $12.
World War II had on American industrial capability, methods, and design. Massive government contracts were awarded to every American industry. Unheard-of sums of government cash were dumped into military-oriented research and development. New materials and techniques of manufacture that would never have been considered before suddenly became popular. As an American manufacturer of optical equipment, the Argus corporation benefited from this economic spurt in many ways.
One can see that the Argus A was very much a product of the times, and it was once those times changed that the age of the Argus A ended. All did not go well with Argus Cameras, Inc. after the demise of the A/A2 line. Higher quality and cheaper cameras from West Germany and Japan began to flood the market, and, as a result, the company started hemorrhaging money. Argus enjoyed only a modest success with the C4/C44, which was intended to become the new workhorse of the Argus line.
October 1938 Download this book for free at http://www.TheArgusA.
3 Models And Variations This section of the book is neither a detailed list of the various serial numbers, nor a catalog of every minor variation. Rather, it is a brief overview of the various Argus models produced. In the early years of the Argus, several low-production-run variations were manufactured in an effort to further explore the camera market.
Argus A Focus Type: 2 Position (6ft - 12ft and 12ft - Infinity, later 6ft - 18ft and 18ft - Infinity) Years Manufactured: 1936 - 1941 Introductory Price: $12.50 Approximate Introductory Price in 2003 Dollars: $160.00 Serial Number Range: 1037 - 211589 Shutter Type: Pre-war Ilex Precise Lens Speed: f/4.5 Aperture Settings: f/4.5, 5.6, 8, 11 (later f/4.5, 6.3, 9, 12.
Argus AF Focus Type: Variable from 1¼ to Infinity ft Years Manufactured: 1937 - 1938 Introductory Price: $15.00 Approximate Introductory Price in 2003 Dollars: $190.00 Serial Number Range: 5000 - 70138 Shutter Type: Pre-war Ilex Precise Lens Speed: f/4.5 Aperture Settings: f/4.5, 5.
Argus B Year Manufactured: 1937 Introductory Price: $25.00 Approximate Introductory Price in 2003 Dollars: $320.00 Serial Number Range: Middle A Range Shutter Type: Prontor II Lens Speed: f/2.9 Aperture Settings: f/2.9, 3.5, 4.1, 5.
Pre-War Argus A2B Focus Type: 2 Position (6ft - 18ft and 18ft - Infinity) Years Manufactured: 1939 - ~1945 Introductory Price: $12.50 Approximate Introductory Price in 2003 Dollars: $165.00 Serial Number Range: ~56215 - 244601 Shutter Type: Pre-war Ilex Precise Lens Speed: f/4.5 Aperture Settings: f/4.5, 6.3, 9, 12.
Argus A2F Focus Type: Variable from 1¼ to Infinity ft Years Manufactured: 1939 - 1941 Introductory Price: $15.00 Approximate Introductory Price in 2003 Dollars: $200.00 Serial Number Range: 22760 - 39031 Shutter Type: Pre-war Ilex Precise Lens Speed: f/4.5 Aperture Settings: f/4.5, 6.3, 9, 12.7, 18 Shutter Speeds: 1/200th sec, 1/100, 1/50, 1/25, B(ulb), T(ime) Extinction Meter/Calculator: Yes Flash Synch Tubes: No Pressure Plate: Fixed The A2F was the most feature-laden version of the Argus.
Argus AA Focus Type: Fixed Focus Years Manufactured: 1940 - 1942 Serial Number Range: 500000 - 513250 Shutter Type: Custom for Argus AA Lens Speed: f/6.3 Aperture Settings: f/6.3 (Dull/Color), 9 (Cloudy), 12.7 (Sun/Bright) Shutter Speeds: Time, Inst. Extinction Meter/Calculator: No Flash Synch Tubes: Yes Pressure Plate: Fixed The entire Shutter and Neck assembly was redesigned to incorporate a flash mechanism, and that flash is the AA’s only truly redeeming feature.
Post-War Argus A2B Focus Type: 2 Position (6ft - 18ft and 18ft - Infinity) Years Manufactured: ~1945 - 1950 Introductory Price: $29.00 (includes carrying case and excise tax) Approximate Introductory Price In 2003 Dollars: $270.00 Serial Number Range: ~56215 - 244601 Shutter Type: Post-war Lens Speed: f/4.5 Aperture Settings: f/4.5, 6.3, 9, 12.
Argus FA Focus Type: 2 Position (6ft - 15ft and 15ft - Infinity) Years Manufactured: 1950 - 1951 Introductory Price: $29.00 Approximate Introductory Price in 2003 Dollars: $220.00 Serial Number Range: Year and Month of Manufacture Shutter Type: Flash-modified, post-war Lens Speed: f/4.5 Aperture Settings: f/4.5, 5.
March 1939 Download this book for free at http://www.TheArgusA.
4 Parts Of The Camera The parts of the Argus A family of cameras are very similar to one another; often only one part differs between separate models. In the figures below, the parts of the camera are labeled. If the part is only present on certain models, those models are written in italics after the name of the part or figure. Fig 4-1: Main parts of an Argus A Camera Fig.
15: 16: 17: Shutter Plunger (pre-war A2B & A2F) Focus Indicator (AF & A2F) Focusing Ring (AF & A2F) Fig. 4-3: Neck area of an Argus A2F 18: 19: 20: 21: 22: 23: 24: Lock Clip Lock Catch Tripod Socket Back Cover Rewind Knob Extinction Meter (A2Bs & A2F) Brightness Pointer (A2Bs & A2F) Fig. 4-4: Back view of an Argus A2F 25: 26: 27: 28: Slide Aperture Tab Film Speed Tab Shutter Speed Plate Fig. 4-5: Top view of Exposure Meter/Calculator (A2Bs & A2F) Download this book for free at http://www.TheArgusA.
29: 30: Sprocket Wheel(s) Winding Shaft Fig. 4-6: Inside view of an Argus A2F 31: 32: Floating Pressure Plate Film Cartridge Retainer Fig. 4-7: Inside view of the Back Cover 33: 34: Flash Synch Tubes for Argus AA Flash Synch Tubes for Argus FA Fig. 4-8: Flash Synch Tubes Download this book for free at http://www.TheArgusA.
5 User’s Guide Loading The Camera 1. Remove the Back Cover by pressing the Lock Clip. While pressing, either pull on the leather tab on the Lock Catch or pry the Back Cover off with your fingers. If you have difficulty removing the Back Cover, you can pry the Lock Catch with a flat-head screwdriver or butter knife, and later bend the Lock Catch with pliers until it is easier to remove with your fingers. 2. You have the option of setting the Counter Dial now or in Step 8.
6. Replace the Back Cover by hooking it onto the right side of the camera and closing it onto the Lock Clip. While closing the camera, ensure that the foam Film Cartridge Retainer on the Back Cover presses down on the lip of the film cartridge. CAUTION: If the Back Cover does not go down easily, do not force it. Remove it and restart the loading process. 7. You must now wind the portion of the film that has been exposed to daylight. This is done by advancing the film twice.
FA. (The Modified Two-Position Focus in Chapter 8 discusses the two-position focus further.) 1. Focus in infinity position: To focus for a distance of about 15ft. to Infinity, rotate the Shutter and Neck assembly until the Lens Locking Tabs are NOT over the Locking Lugs. If done correctly, the Shutter and Neck assembly should turn freely and not be “snapped” into place. 2. Focus in close-up position: To focus for a distance of 6ft. to about 15 ft.
shutter. Keep in mind that the Argus View Finder shows slightly less than will appear on the film negative; this was intentional and meant to compensate for aiming errors. The camera must be held steady, resting against the cheek, and the pressure on the Trigger should be gradual so that the camera is held as still as possible while the shutter is operating. The secret of clear, sharp negatives with a “miniature” camera is firm holding and steady shutter release.
Using The Light Meter/Exposure Calculator (A2B and A2F) I. First, you must set the Tabs to the proper film speed. Determining Film Speed: To set the Film Speed Tab, you must translate the film speed on the film cartridge, which is in ISO(ASA), to the film speed written on the camera, which is in Weston. Weston ratings are about 80% of ISO ratings; use the chart below to approximate your Weston rating.
Fig. 5-3 : Example 1 Example 1 Fig. 5-4: Example 2 Film: 100 ISO (72 Weston) The second block is visible in the extinction meter. You are outdoors with average lighting conditions. Use the following Shutter Speed/Aperture combinations: Shutter Speed f-stop 200 f/4.5 100 f/6.3 50 f/9 25 f/12.7 Table 5-2: Equivalent Shutter Speed/Aperture combinations for Example 1 Example 2 Film: 50 ISO (40 Weston) The third block is visible in the extinction meter. You are outdoors with bright lighting conditions.
f-stop Settings And Spacing In the early models of the Argus camera, the early As and AFs, the aperture settings are listed as f/4.5, 5.6, 8, and 11. This undoubtedly caused confusion because the difference between f/4.5 and f/5.6 is about a half stop, whereas the other differences are full stops. Remember this if you are using such a camera. Later models switched to an older European method for denoting f-stops. These settings were f/4.5, 6.3, 9, 12.
6 Accessories Soon after it entered the market, the Argus was quickly joined by a myriad of accessories. Verschoor envisioned the Argus as part of a system of components that could cheaply create pictures from start to finish. On the enlarger, the camera body and lens were also used to hold the negative and project the image onto the print. This enlarger, a slide projector, and slide mounting kits were all for sale, and were combined with other Argus products to produce the “ARGUSKIT.
the sun; thus providing more interesting and more artistic shots. The attachment fits the camera lens mount as well as filters, copying, and portrait attachments. Any combination may be used. This lens shade is very helpful in bright situations. Portrait Attachment No. 3 (SORCA) Part No. S-2 Original Cost 90¢ Shorten focus and increase size of object. Head and shoulders just about fill negative. Focus in infinity position covers a field of 18 x 27 inches at 40 inches working distance.
Lens Accessory Case (SARCI) Part No. S-7 Original Cost $1.00 These do not age well. If found in good condition, do not use in order to preserve its historical value. Lens Accessory Kit (SOMTA) Part No. S-8 Original Cost $5.00 Complete Kit of the above seven items in case for Model A. Lens Accessory Kit for Argus AF (SAFFO) Part No. SAF-8 Original Cost $5.00 Complete Kit for Model AF only.
Fig. 6-2: Argus Redycase (left), De Luxe Case (center), and Zipper Case (right) Black Leather Zipper Case (BLANCA) Part No. 50 Original Cost $2.50 An all-purpose case of heavy selected cowhide, completely lined with soft rich velvet that will not scratch or damage camera. Zipper fastener running around slightly more than three sides, allowing almost instant full (bookwise) opening.
This new carrying case affords perfect protection for your Argus and is always ready for instant action without removal of camera. Is rich in appearance and most practical for quick shots. Made of genuine hand finished deep grained cowhide and fitted with black leather neck strap. Net weight of case is 6½ ounces. See the comments about the case listed above. Carrying Case Safety Screw (SAFE) Part No.
AVERAGE or CLOUDY, etc. These are notoriously inaccurate factors to deal with. Still, the meter works well enough to produce a decent photograph. Vintage Book On Photography One great way to get into the mindset of using an antique camera is to read photographic books from the camera’s time period. In addition to being full of great period pictures, they offer great tips and techniques that were popular at the time.
to the desired length of time. Self-timers are particularly useful if you are using a cheap, unstable, miniature tripod or taking extreme close-ups. There are several things to keep in mind if you are looking for a self-timer. Try to get one with an instruction manual. These are useful in learning all of the settings of your timer and taking advantage of all of its features. Timers are often also in need of lubrication. Try to buy one that is still working well.
quarter of the way around the inside rim and cut it off. Try to fit it on the lens mount. Continue this process of unwrapping and trying until the lens cap fits snugly. Use the razor to trim the excess plastic and tape, and admire your new lens cap! If making a lens cap for the pre-war Argus A2B and A2F, make small notches in the lens cap to accommodate the screws in the face plate.
7 Restoration And Repair One of the great advantages of the Argus A is how easy it is to repair. This chapter will discuss repairs by dividing the camera into three main sections: the Body, the Neck, and the Shutter (see Fig. 4-1).
The only reason to take it off is to clean around it or to polish it with aluminum polish. If you attempt to polish it, be prepared to spend a lot of time scrubbing the knurled portion. Ensure that when you replace the knob, the slot in the screw-hole of the knob is properly lined-up. View Finder The View Finder is one of the trickier parts of the Body. It consists of two lenses, a round one and rectangular one, on either side of the View Finder.
set the Counter Dial to “0” when the camera is first loaded with film. Unfortunately, this clutch often fails and begins to unscrew the retaining screw. When reassembling, ensure that these items are replaced onto the screw in the proper order; first the Dial, then the copper discs (with the “rim” of the bowl touching the Dial), and then the brass cylinder.
glue it EXACTLY where it broke off. Serious problems will occur if the Pressure Plate is not affixed correctly. The post-war A2B and the FA have a floating Pressure Plate (see Fig. 4-7). This is a stamped aluminum plate that is kept aloft with by a springy metal band. The only problem to be had with a floating Pressure Plate is a weak spring, but this can be fixed by carefully bending the metal band with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Light-Proof Ribbon The most overlooked part of the Body is the inside of the cylinder that the Neck slides into. If you undo the four screws that hold the Neck and Shutter assembly to the Body, you should see that the inside of this Body cavity is lined with a fuzzy, light-proof ribbon that is similar to velvet. Some cameras do not have this ribbon because it loosened over time and was removed by a previous owner.
The Two-Position Focus Neck The two-position focus Neck is just a tube. disassemble the camera. Clean the outside of it if you The Variable Focus Neck If the variable focus Neck is difficult to rotate, it can be easily loosened. Most often, the grease used to lubricate the mechanism has just thickened with time. Rotate the Focusing Ring far enough so that you can see the three lubrication grooves on the inside of the Neck.
Fig. 7-2: “Homemade” adjustable shutter removal tool Once you have removed the nut, the Shutter can be separated from the Neck, and two metal plates, one with the Lens Locking Tabs and one with the Locking Lugs, can be removed from the Neck. In addition to these plates, there are occasionally one or more thin washers. These washers are the last to come off of the shutter during disassembly.
The Shutter Cleaning The Lens The objective lens of the Argus is very easy to clean. But be careful not to scratch or damage the lens by using improper cleaning techniques. At a minimum, use only the materials found in a lens cleaning kit purchased from a camera store. The Lens Assembly, which has already been removed, can be further disassembled. The rear lens of the assembly is held on by a screwed-on retainer. If you need to clean the inside surfaces of these two lenses, unscrew the retainer.
As a shutter mechanism ages, terrible things happen. Dirt enters the mechanism, lubricants thicken, and moving parts start to freeze up or get sticky. To reverse the effects of time, a very thin oil must be injected into the moving joints of the mechanism. It is very important to use as little lubricant as possible. Too much oil attracts dirt and the mechanism will just jam up again; this cannot be overstressed.
Fig. 7-4: Pre-war Shutter Face Plates Let us take a look at the inside of the pre-war Shutter. Do not attempt to remove any of the screws on the inside of the shutter mechanism; they are difficult to replace. On this shutter, you can fire the Trigger while the Face Plate is removed, it will not affect the mechanism if it is working properly. With the Face Plate removed, the Shutter behaves as if it were set to T(ime); press the Trigger once to open the shutter and once again to close it.
F: This lever rides on a cam on the Face Plate. When you rotate the Face Plate to set the shutter speed to B(ulb) or T(imed), this lever sets the mechanism in B to the proper position. G: This lever also rides on a cam on the Face Plate. It controls the shutter speed from 25 to 200. Fig. 7-5: The pre-war Shutter with the Face Plate removed Reassembling the Shutter is trickier than taking it apart.
The Post-War Shutter The post-war Shutter is found on the post-war Argus A2B and the FA. Although there is no direct evidence, the post-war Shutter appears to be the Wollensak Alphax shutter, also used on cameras such as the Bolsey B, Bolsey C, Perfex One-O-One, and others from the post-war period. The Face Plates to both cameras are very similar and easy to remove. First unscrew the Lens Assembly from the front by turning the metal cylinder with your hand.
E. These are the lubrication points for the delay mechanism. For every speed from 25 to 150, this mechanism delays the shutter blades to ensure that the shutter blades remain open for the appropriate amount of time. If your shutter blades do not close properly when set to 25 speed but work well on 150 speed, the problem most likely lies here. Unlike in the pre-war Shutter, some of these spindles are not easily accessible because the tops are blocked by a metal plate.
Again, reassembling the Shutter is trickier than taking it apart. The steps are the reverse of disassembly, but care must be taken to ensure that all of the various components, particularly the cams on the Face Plate, line up properly. When replacing the Face Plate, make sure that the Shutter Speed Lever is at the top of the Shutter. The two levers that ride cams on the Face Plate must be aligned properly or the mechanism will be jammed or damaged.
the Neck as if you were scratching it. Once found, a crack can be repaired by filling it from the inside with flat black model paint. The most commonly seen light leak takes the form of a round circle whose diameter is almost the entire width of the negative; it looks like a large fuzzy ring in the middle of your picture. This is caused by light leaking around the edges of the Neck and down to the negative. If this occurs, you must replace the light proof tape that lines the inside of the neck.
8 Tricks And Modifications When the Argus debuted in 1936, taking a picture was still a hit or miss endeavor. Light meters were primitive and hardly more accurate than charts. Flash bulbs had just been invented and were still quite unreliable. Each type of film came with its own chart of shutter speed and f-stop combinations, depending on the lighting conditions (“Is this BRIGHT SUN or HAZY SUN?”). Taking a picture meant that you had to take a chance that all of your settings were correct.
Set the aperture at f/4.5. You can now look through the back of the camera to see exactly what the negative will look like. Keep in mind, however, that the image will be upsidedown. If you intend to take many close up pictures, you can mark the front View Finder lens with a fine-point water-soluble marker to indicate any changes due to parallax. Taking Close-Up Pictures One of the main advantages of the Argus AF and A2F at the time they were made was their ability to focus on objects very close to the lens.
shallow depth of field, make for interesting effects. Cityscapes can be made with the first exposure during the day and the second at night. While some of these effects require computation to determine the proper exposure times and apertures, they offer some truly unique approaches to picture taking. Other creative applications of the double exposure exist and are worth exploring. Intentional Lens Aberrations As mentioned in Chapter 7, the Middle Lens of the pre-war Shutters can be removed for cleaning.
The Pinhole Argus The Argus camera can be changed into a pinhole camera. But so can a shoebox. What makes the Argus a better pinhole camera than a shoebox? 1. The Pinhole Argus can easily be converted back into a normal camera with no permanent damage. But can’t a shoebox still hold shoes? Touché. Nevertheless, read on. 2. The View Finder can be used to determine what will appear on the negative. 3.
pixels, and 1200 should have 75 pixels. Once you have double-checked that your scanner is properly set, scan the strips of aluminum foil and zoom in on the holes. Count the number of pixels that fit lengthwise in the hole and divide by the dpi setting. That will give you the correct diameter of your pinhole. For example, if the scanner is set to 600dpi and the hole is 9 pixels across, the diameter of the hole is 0.015 inches. (9 ÷ 600 = 0.015).
and the shutter is in the extended position with the optimum pinhole size, the exposure time should be 1.3 seconds (1/100 x 130 = 1.3). Bear in mind that this calculation assumes that the pinhole is exactly 0.0113 inches in diameter, perfectly round, the film is without reciprocity, etc. These conditions are too ideal to consider realistic. If the hole is larger, decrease the exposure time, if it is smaller, increase the exposure time.
slight modification, however, the Argus can produce all sorts of “artistic flaws”. It also allows a surprising degree of control over the intentional flaws. This modification places a “mask” about 1/8th of an inch above the focal plane, between the negative and the lens. Therefore, light traveling through the lens must pass through the mask before it reaches the negative. If the mask is flat and clear the image should remain the same, but if the mask is imperfect in any way it will distort the image.
working filter factor. This factor will remain the same for every mask that is similarly made. Because of ambient dust and scratches, the mask will not last long before it needs to be removed or replaced. The light-proof ribbon will also dry and begin to sprinkle dust on the filter. Allow it to dry out completely after removing the filter to prevent the ribbon from getting moldy.
Adding A Cold Accessory Shoe Accessory shoes were once very common on cameras. Some cameras like the UniveX Mercury had two accessory shoes, a hot one for a flash and a cold one for an extinction meter or rangefinder. Every accessory shoe made these days, however, is intended for an external electronic flash unit. There are several useful accessories that can be attached through a cold shoe. The most common is a rangefinder. Another helpful accessory for a cold shoe is an exposure meter.
9 Finding An Argus In Good Shape The 60 Second Camera Evaluation You are walking down the street of a city you are visiting and something black, yet chromed, catches your eye. As you approach it, you see that one of the many antique stores in this part of the city has just put an Argus A2B in the window, just like the one you’ve always wanted. You walk in and stare at the lamp next to the camera, so the lady at the counter doesn’t notice your interest in the Argus.
You should see a very temporary flash of light. If you consistently see a flash of light while firing the shutter, then the shutter mechanism is probably still good and will be easily restored. If you cannot fire the shutter and see the flash of light at the top speed, you may not be able to use the camera without sending it to a repairman. To test the aperture, set it to the smallest setting. Fire the shutter and ensure that the aperture hole is small and round, not oval or egg shaped.
10 For More Information Throughout the years, much has been written about 35mm cameras, their use, and their repair. The author has enjoyed many of these books and would like to point out several that stand out from the crowd. The best history of American 35mm development and the early evolution of the 35mm camera is Glass, Brass, & Chrome: The American 35mm Miniature Camera, by Kalton C. Lahue and Joseph A. Bailey.
Appendix A: Argus A Patent Download this book for free at http://www.TheArgusA.
Download this book for free at http://www.TheArgusA.
Download this book for free at http://www.TheArgusA.
Download this book for free at http://www.TheArgusA.
Download this book for free at http://www.TheArgusA.
Appendix B: Bibliography and References Adams, Ansel, The Camera. Little, Brown, and Company, Boston, 1980. Burian, Peter K. and Caputo, Robert, National Geographic Photography Field Guide: Secrets To Making Great Pictures. National Geographic Book Division, Washington, D.C., 1999. Lahue, Kalton C. and Bailey, Joseph A., Glass, Brass, and Chrome: The American 35mm Miniature Camera. University of Oklahoma Press, Norman, Oklahoma, 1972. Tydings, Kenneth, The Argus 35mm Guide And Reference Book.
