Specifications

FUEL TANK SWITCHES
Fuel tank switches are to port of the helm console. Since Gateway I is a catamaran with a fuel tank in
each hull, she will run more evenly in the water if the fuel tanks are switched from time to time to
regularize out take. This same logic applies to the water tanks. If you empty one side and create a list that
you correct with trim tabs while underway, the boat’s heavy sea handling and tracking will not be ideal.
FILLING THE WATER TANKS
Water tank inlets are on each side of the cockpit bulkhead near the outside of the cabin bulkhead (caps
are labeled). Their capacity is monitored on the gauge to starboard of the AC panel. They are labeled
Tank 1 and Tank 2. As with the fuel intakes it is best to start the flow slowly and then speed up to about
half speed while listening for indications of the tank becoming full.
TRIM TABS
The boat is fitted with a set of trim tabs. These are wide “flaps” attached to the aft end of each hull, under
the swim step at the trailing edge of each hull. They are operated electrically under the control of the
skipper by switches to starboard of the wheel at the helm.
At low speeds, up to approximately ten knots, the tabs do little, and should be left in the “Bow Up” position
(see below). But at speeds over this range, the tabs begin to take effect and will help the operator lower
the bow for more efficient cruising.
The best way to adjust the tabs is to lower them while watching the “Speed” indicator to get the highest
speed at a given throttle setting by adjusting “Bow Down”. If the tabs are “Bow Down” too much, the
steering will get mushy and speed may drop off a little, in which case, the tabs should be adjusted “Bow
Up” a little. More details are supplied in the manufacturer’s manual (in the black bag under the
helmsman’s seat).
Because the trim tabs are large, THEY SHOULD BE IN THE FULLY-BOW-UP POSITION WHENEVER
THE BOAT IS TO BE OPERATED FOR EXTENDED DISTANCES IN REVERSE. In addition, having the
tabs “Bow Up” draws the hydraulic cylinders in, exposing the pistons less to the effects of the salt water.
For the same reason they are susceptible to damage if left in a down position once the vessel is moored
or anchored.
ENGINE & SEA STRAINER
Start engine 5 minutes or so before departure (turn key to right and let go, it will crank until it starts or
needs to be turned again; no need to hold it). By the time you are away from port the engine might still not
be warm enough for RPM over 2000. Monitor engine temperature on digital gauge. When temperature is
170° you are good to go. Do not run it over 2000 RPM until the temperature gauge reads at least 170°
Fahrenheit.
There is a blower for the engine compartment. A cool engine is a happy engine. Turn on the blower, lower
panel to port of steering - at latest before leaving the harbor.
This is not a “planning” boat! It is sensible to operate the boat in the 3100 - 3500 RPM range, and you’ll
enjoy smoother, quieter, more pleasant cruising and economy, too!
The engine requires a regular, daily check. Once underway you will probably not check it while in use,
since it is approached mainly from the cockpit. So, please perform this check each morning (when the
engine room is cool!):
 CHECK THE OIL. The oil level should be between the two marks on the dipstick. Please consult
the manufacturer’s manual for details DO NOT OVERFILL the crankcase (above the “full” mark),
as the engine will quickly waste excessive lubricant. If oil is required often, check under the engine
carefully to be sure there is no oil leak, and if there is, have it corrected promptly.
 CHECK THE COOLANT LEVEL. If coolant is below 1.5 inches in the reservoir, add till about 2”
(½) full. Over filling the tank will cause it to burp into the bilge. Check if there is any sign of a
coolant leak (light blue color) under the engine, and if there is, do not run the engine; if no leak;
Gateway Yachts – At a Fraction of the Price…