Specifications
add coolant to the tank from the jug of pre-mixed antifreeze/corrosion inhibitor/water supplied on
the boat.
VISUALLY INSPECT THE ROOM whenever you’re in the engine room, asking yourself, “Does
everything look right?” Look at the pans under the engines and transmission. While some drips are
normal, there shouldn’t ever be substantial accumulations of any fluids!
CHECK THE SEA STRAINER ONCE A WEEK, or immediately if an engine runs “hot”. To check
the strainer, shine a flashlight into it. While some “fuzziness” from trapped thin growth is normal,
you should see the perforated metal element clearly with no debris in the bowl. If obscured, you
should clean the strainer. See below and manufacturer's manual on board.
CHECK TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL ONCE A WEEK, or more often if a transmission shifts
erratically, with the dipstick on the starboard side of the transmission (blue line around it). It is
unlikely that any oil will need to be added. Be sure to check under the transmission for leaks!
Low transmission oil is a serious matter. Manual has details. To check the transmission oil start the
engine then let it idle for 1-2 minutes. Turn engine off and directly pull the dip stick laying it on a
clean paper towel so the wet clear oil indicated on the towel is its actual level. If it is below the
mark add 30 wt oil via the small yellow funnel through the dip stick hole. It only holds 2 qts so it
normally would take a ¼ qt or less.
Sea Strainer Cleaning
If the sea strainer needs cleaning (see above regarding inspection) here is the procedure:
1) Close the large seacock just under the strainer by moving the handle (see picture in manual).
2) Remove the black plastic wing nut securing the clear cover of the sea strainer. Then, remove
the strainer by pulling it out from the top of the assembly. Rinse the strainer thoroughly and, if
necessary, remove any debris from the glass housing.
3) Reinsert the strainer and carefully reposition the black o-ring gasket in the groove. Replace the
top cover, reinstall the wing nut pretty snug but not overly tight as it is a plastic lid!, AND
TURN THE VALVE BACK ON — failure to do so will overheat the engine.
This entire operation will take 5-10 minutes at most, and will assure you of a cool engine.
DINGHY, DAVIT & OUTBOARD MOTOR
Dinghy:
The dinghy aboard this boat is a Zodiac high pressure bottom inflatable. It has a seat for two; more can sit
on the pontoons. For safety, and compliance with U.S. rules, there should be a life jacket aboard the
dinghy for each passenger aboard whenever the dinghy is at sea (wearing them is smart!).
Please be careful when pulling the dinghy ashore on beaches to minimize damage and scratches to the
bottom. It can be lifted by two persons even with the motor attached if one is on each side. Don’t “Ram”
the beach; you can bump up to the beach gently and step ashore over the bow, pulling the dinghy a little
more ashore as each person off-loads. Don’t forget to raise the outboard when the boat is beached!
Keeping the dinghy clean, and carefully stowing its contents will make your trip a safer and more pleasant
one! Try to keep rocks and gravel out of the dingy as they migrate to the crevasses and can cause
damage.
Dinghy Davit:
The dinghy is secured on a pair of manual davits. To lower the dinghy, have a crew member assist you as
the two of you simultaneously release the support rods and store them on the transom brackets. Be sure
to keep the rods in plane as you swing them to the latch position or they will bind up on the hinge side.
With the blue tender line push the dingy over center and lower into the water. The blue line is good for
tying to docks and the boat. Wait to unclip the dingy from the snap davits on swim platform until the motor
is installed and clamped securely.
Please consult the manufacturer’s instructions. To bring in the dinghy, reverse the launching procedure.
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