Specifications

Outboard Motor:
The supplied outboard is a 2.5 hp Suzuki Outboard. It is a reliable, smooth running unit.
To start the motor:
1) Be sure it is on, out of gear and the twist grip is in start position. There is a clip that is applied to
the on/cut-off switch. This clip is on a curly cord that can be attached to the operator’s life jacket,
so the engine will cut off if the operator is away from the engine.
2) Open the tank vent and the fuel supply lever just next to the shifter.
4) Set the choke – Pull twice most often it will start.
5) If the first couple of pulls are not sufficient for starting, push in the choke and pull twice more. Be
ready to adjust the choke when one of the next pulls starts the engine. Over choking will flood it.
This little motor is very dependable, and it is also sensitive. It may take some coaxing.
6) As soon as it starts, ease the choke to 1/2 while keeping the engine running. Let her warm up a
few minutes before pushing in the choke and put it in gear.
To stop/storage of the motor:
1) Disengage the RED engine cut-off clip (slips out from under the red button).
2) Re-tighten the fill cap vent and switch the fuel supply OFF. If you don’t it will spill fuel in the
storage compartment and smell, also be sure when replacing on travel rack that the tiller handle is
DOWN otherwise the engine oil spills out.
Outboard Motor Fuel and Fuel Tank:
The fuel tank for the outboard is on top of the motor. It uses gas and no mixing of oil is required. There is
spare fuel in a 'can' attached to the dinghy.
FRESH, SALT & WASTE WATER SYSTEMS
Hot Water Heater
After the water pump, water is distributed directly to the cold water faucet lines. In addition, it goes to the
boat’s hot water heater. This heater uses two energy sources: (1) heat from the engine, so that whenever
the boat is running or has recently run, there is hot water and, (2) 110 volts AC from shore power, if
available and the breaker is “on”. The heater is insulated well enough to keep hot water quite a while
without power, provided you haven’t wasted a lot in dishwashing! It should be left on AC power only when
needed as it draws 2000 watts.
Waste Water
Waste water from the sinks and shower (but not from the toilets) is dumped overboard in accordance with
U.S. and Canadian law. From sink basins, the water simply flows by gravity overboard.
Head Water Supply:
The head uses salt water. No attention is necessary. The water from the black water holding tank can
either be emptied when far off shore or pumped while in port. See manual for instructions.
SYSTEMS, ELECTRICAL: AC & DC
Concepts
Each year it seems more folks are confused by the operation of electrical systems on yachts than by any
other subject! Don’t feel discouraged if something isn’t clear: you’ve got company in your confusion. So
let’s try to cover some theory here first.
Most of the equipment on any boat is run by 12 volt DC electricity from the boat’s batteries. This is true
because DC should always be available, even more so because of Gateway I’s solar panels.
Since the batteries are used so much, we have to replenish, or charge them. The most important way we
do this is by alternators on the vessel’s engine (125amp). The engine will provide enough electricity in
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