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610 Chapter 8: Modifiers
• Always create your pattern splines in the Top
viewport. Garment Maker assumes that the
pattern is laid out this way.
• When seaming garments with MultiSegment
edges, you must take care of t he order in which
theseamsaremade.
Note: A MultiSegment comprises two or more
individual segments acting as a single segment;
you create it with Garment Maker.
When creating a seam you cannot use:
• A MultiSegment that has multiple gaps in it,
unless all but one of those gaps are bridged by
another seam.
• AsegmentorMultiSegmentthatformsaclosed
loop (that is, a path directly, or via seams,
completely encloses the MultiSegment).
Both these issues arise in the common sleeve
assembly show n b elow. The sleeve needs to be
sewn to the armhole. When a ssembled, both
thesleeveandthearmholeformclosedloops.
The sleeve forms a loop via the seam along its
underside. The armhole is closed by two seams:
one across the shoulder and one down the side.
Now, since you cannot seam closed loops together,
it therefore follows that both the armhole and
sleevemustbeleftopenwhencreatingtheseam
connecting them. So the order is as follows:
1. Becausethesleeveisonesegmentandthe
armhole is two segments, you must make a
MultiSegment out of those two segments first.
2. When dealing with MultiS egment seams, the
orderofcreationisimportant.Ifyouattempt
to create seams in the wrong order , you might
get a “Seamline topology is wrong ” error,
and the seams w ill not be created. When
dealing with MultiSegment seams, create the
minimum number of seams necessary to make
the MultiSegment seam match the topolog y of
theotherpiecetothatyouaregoingtoconnect.
Inthiscase,youhaveanarmseamthatisopen
at the bottom, and a MultiSegment that is open
at both the top and the b ottom. If you closed
the side of the garment, you’d end up with
the situation illustrated in the center image
below, where the seam is twisted (it cannot
be “untwisted” by reversing the seam). By
closing the top of the armhole MultiSegment
w ith a seam at the shoulder, you’ll create proper
topology to make the MultiSegment seam.
3. Next, you can seam up the sleeve to the
armhole. See the leftmost image below.
4. Finally, you can add the seam dow n the side of
thegarmentandacrosstheundersideofthe
sleeve (the order is irrelevant here).
Left: Seam cre ated for shoulder first a nd then for the
MultiSegment, producing the desired result.
Middle: Seam created at the bottom of the body MultiSegment
first, resu lting in an irreversible MultiSegment seam from the
arm to the body.
Right: No seams m ade on the body to connect its
MultiSegment, resulting in a seam topology error.
Internal Seam Lines
When drawing p anels, you c an use extr a open
splines to define seam lines within the panels,
also known as internal seam lines. Tr iangulation
always occurs along these internal seam lines, so
youcanusethemtohelpdefinethestructureof
the cloth panel, and a s crease lines.Also,youcan
specify that an internal seam line should be cut,
so that the cloth separates along the line during
the simulation.