INSTRUCTION AND REFERENCE GUIDE This sewing machine is intended for household use. IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using a sewing machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following. Read all instructions before using. DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock: 1. Never leave unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. 2. Always unplug before relamping.
TABLE OF CONTENTS SPECIFICATIONS ..................................................... 1 GETTING TO KNOW YOUR SERGER ..................... 2 ACCESS TO THREAD GUIDES AND FREE ARM .... 3 ELECTRICAL CONNECTION .................................... 4 ACCESSORIES ......................................................... 4 INSERTING THE NEEDLE ........................................ 5 NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART ................ 5 THREADING THE MACHINE .................................... 6 extension bar ....
GETTING TO KNOW YOUR SERGER 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 9 10 11 12 17 13 16 14 1. Thread Guide Hanger 2. Extension Bar 3. Lower Looper Thread Tension Dial (Blue) 4. Upper Looper Thread Tension Dial (Green) 5. Thread Guide and Pretension Disc 6. Right Needle Thread Tension Dial (Yellow) 7. Left Needle Thread Tension Dial (Red) 8. Pressure Regulator 9. Thread Take-up Lever 10. Presser Foot Lifter 11. Presser Foot Releasing Lever 12. Presser Foot 13. Free Arm 14. Extension Table 15.
INSIDE OF FRONT COVER AND FREE ARM COVER 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Needle Clamp Upper Blade Holder Upper Blade Needle Plate Seam Width Knob Upper Looper Lower Looper Lower Blade 1 2 3 4 6 7 8 5 ACCESS TO THREAD GUIDES AND FREE ARM 1. Place thumb in hollow of front cover and slide it to the right as far as possible; pull cover down toward you. 2. To close, lift cover up and it will snap into place. 3. Be sure that the cover is properly closed before starting to sew.
ELECTRICAL CONNECTION Power Line Plug Connect the electrical cord to the machine by inserting the threehole plug into the terminal box located on the right side of the machine. Connect the cord plug into an electrical outlet. POLARIZED PLUG INFORMATION This appliance has a polarized plug (one prong wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug.
INSERTING THE NEEDLE Select the proper type and size needle for fabric used. (See below “NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART”.) Left Needle Clamp Screw Right Needle Clamp Screw Tighten Flat Side Loosen OFF 1. Turn electrical power off. 2. Turn handwheel toward you until the needle comes to its highest point. 3. Use the allen wrench to loosen the Left and/or Right needle clamp screw, and remove the needle. 4.
THREADING THE MACHINE When threading, be sure to follow the directions given below. The machine must be threaded in the proper sequence in order to sew. An illustration for correct threading is inside the front cover of the machine. The thread guides are identified with color markings corresponding to the thread to which they belong. Always thread the upper and lower loopers before threading the needles. Threading Sequence 1. Upper Looper (Green) 2. Lower Looper (Blue) 3. Right Needle (Yellow) 4.
threading the upper looper Open the front cover and thread upper looper thread as illustrated below in steps 1 to 9. Follow thread guides with green color markings on machine. 1. Pass thread through top guide from back to front. 1 1 2 2 2. Bring thread down and pass through thread guide and under pretension disc. 3 3 9 7 4 8 5 6 Threading chart inside front cover 3. Bring thread straight down through the slot so that it passes between the tension discs. 9 7 4 8 5 4.
threading the lower looper Swing the extension table, with free arm attached, out to the left. Thread lower looper thread as illustrated below in steps A to H. Follow thread guides with blue color markings on machine. A A. Pass thread through guide from back to front. B. Bring thread down and pass through thread guide and under pretension disc. C. Bring thread straight down along the slot so that the thread passes between the tension discs. C B C G H F F E D D E D.
threading the right and left needles Thread right needle as illustrated below in steps a to i. Thread guides with yellow color marking on machine. a A f d e g h B b i E C f c a-c. Thread same sequence as threading upper and lower looper thread. d. Hook thread into guide and pull it towards left. e. Hook thread into back opening of guide. f. Hook into guide by sliding thread across top and down into hole. g. Position thread into right side opening of guide. h.
BEFORE STARTING TO SEW When the machine is plugged in properly and threaded correctly it is ready for sewing. To insure good stitches, make several sewing tests using the same fabric and thread on which you will sew. Make the proper adjustments while test sewing. Close front cover before beginning any sewing project. starting to sew 1. Pull all threads under the presser foot and toward the back. 2. Lower the presser foot. 3. Turn handwheel toward you 2 or 3 times and check the thread chain. 4.
OVERLOCK SEWING (2-needle, 4-thread) Your machine will sew overlock stitches and simultaneously trim the fabric. It is delivered from the factory preset to sew a 4-thread overlock stitch. Correct 4-thread tension Top side of fabric This machine can also sew 1-needle, 3-thread overlock stitch by removing one needle. (See page 13 “OVERLOCK SEWING 1-needle, 3-thread”.
SETTING STITCH LENGTH The stitch length can be adjusted between 1 and 4 mm. Shorter • For shortest stitch, turn dial to 1. (fig.12-A) • For longest stitch, turn dial to 4. Longer As a rule, light weight fabrics take a shorter stitch. Heavy weight fabrics need longer stitches. Most normal sewing is done with stitch length dial set at 3. This produces a medium length stitch which makes a strong seam and is suitable for most fabrics. fig.
ADJUSTING THE PRESSURE ON FABRIC Decrease Increase The pressure on the foot can be adjusted for different weight fabrics. The fabric should move along smoothly and evenly without slipping. Stitches should be uniform in size. The pressure on this machine is set for sewing medium weight fabrics. • For sewing light weight fabrics, decrease the pressure (turn screw to left). • For heavy weight fabrics, increase the pressure (turn screw to right).
NARROW AND ROLLED HEMMING By changing the needle plate to “Rolled Hem Needle Plate” and using right needle only, the machine trims fabric, folds back the edge and sews a narrow hem (overedge). The width of the narrow overedge is 1.5 mm (about 1/16") and is used for overedging light and medium weight fabrics. Two variations of the rolled overedge hem can be sewn with this machine by changing the thread tension. Both methods are used with light and medium weight fabrics.
NARROW HEMMING -Method A 1.5 mm Pull the excess threads gently toward the back and begin sewing. Although the stitch width is set at 1.5 mm, you will actually need 3.5 mm (about 1/8") to provide enough fabric for the fold back. thread tension -Method A 3.5 mm Use the chart below as a guide in setting tension. The tension adjustments for Method A are the same as 1-needle, 3-thread overlock. See page 13 if adjustments are needed.
TWO THREAD SERGING Two thread serging provides a decorative, yet functional seam known as the flatlock seam. You can flatlock garments ranging from lingerie to fake fur coats. When sewing with two threads you can achieve a flat, bulk-free seam. Using it to seam fake-fur fabrics and hand knit fabrics you will find that the “stitches” disappear into the nap. Enhance the appearance of flatlock stitch with the use of decorative threads through the looper.
thread tension Needle thread laps around over the Lower looper thread laps around top of fabric. over the bottom of fabric. When you are doing two thread serging for the first time use a medium weight fabric to sew a test sample for determining the correct tension setting. Begin by adjusting the needle tension to “1” and the lower looper tension to “4”. Sew a sample. If the threads are not balanced make necessary adjustments according to the illustrations.
BLIND HEMMING By changing the presser foot to “Blind Hem Presser Foot”, you can sew blind stitches while trimming fabric. It produces a durable hem which is almost invisible on the right side of the article sewn. It is useful for sewing cuffs, trouser bottoms, pockets etc,. changing the presser foot REMOVING THE PRESSER FOOT 1. Turn the handwheel toward you until the needle is at its highest point. 2. Lift up the presser foot by raising the presser foot lifter. 3.
6. Lower the presser foot and sew hem, guiding fabric evenly along the plastic guide. 7. When hem is completed, open the fabric and press hem. CORRECT THREAD TENSION The upper and lower looper threads are crossed on the cut edge of fabric. SEWING WITH UPPER BLADE DISENGAGED When sewing without trimming, disengage the moving blade as shown below. Use the blind hem presser foot to insure even seam width. NOTE: When using the blind hem foot, always remove the left needle. 1. Unplug the machine. 2.
FLATLOCK SEAM Using the blind hem presser foot and disengaging the upper blade, you can sew decorative top stitching “Flatlock Seam” as shown on the sketch. setting controls Flatlock Seam (Correct thread tension) Set the machine controls as below. Needle Right Stitch Length 2-3 Presser Foot Blind Hem Upper Blade Disengage Needle Plate Standard thread tension Set tension dials for normal 3-thread overcasting.
PIN TUCKING Pin tucking is a useful decorative stitch for blouses and children’s wear. Slightly increase the looper thread tension. Set the machine controls as shown on the right. Needle Stitch Length 2-3 Right Presser Foot Blind Hem Upper Blade Disengage Needle Plate Standard sewing 1. Fold fabric with wrong sides together. 2. Adjust the plastic guides so that the stitches just overcast the folded edge. 3. Lower the presser foot and sew. 4.
TURNING CORNERS outside corner inside corners 1. Cut the corner about 5-6 cm (2-3 inches) along the cutting line. 1. Snip to corner of seam line. 2. Sew desired seam line until blade reaches corner. 2. Sew to the end of fabric and stop machine. 3. Raise needle and presser foot. 4. Pull fabric slightly towards the back and pull out tangled thread from Needle plate. 3. When you approach the corner, slow down. Lower the needle. 5. Turn fabric and position the fabric by lining up the cut line and blade.
CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE cleaning Brush around the fabric feed dog Brush inside of the front cover Fabric, thread scraps and dust may accumulate around moving parts and effect the functioning of machine. Unplug cord and clean machine with the brush provided with the accessories. oiling Critical parts used in this machine are made of special material that does not require oiling. Only the parts indicated with arrows shown below need oiling. Depending on use these should be oiled once or twice a month.
BEFORE YOU CALL FOR SERVICE Your new serger was carefully inspected and tested at the factory and was in perfect working order when shipped. Under normal conditions, if you carefully follow instructions for threading, operating and maintenance, your machine will give you years of trouble-free service. Occasional difficulties are usually caused by a condition that can be easily remedied with a minor adjustment. Some possible problems, their causes and corrections are given here. CAUSE CORRECTION REF.
STITCH SELECTION CHART STITCH (Correct thread tension) NEEDLE NEEDLE PLATE SEAM WIDTH STITCH LENGTH 2-needle, 4-thread 1-4 mm 4 5 4-5 Both Standard 6.2-7.2 mm (align 4-5 mm line) Refer to Page 11 for Tension Adjustment. 1-needle, 3-thread (Wider) 1-4 mm 4 5 4-5 Left Standard 6.2-7.2 mm (align 4-5 mm line) Refer to Page 13 for Tension Adjustment. 1-needle, 3-thread (Narrower) 1-4 mm 4 5 Refer to Page 13 for Tension Adjustment.
62180 BL450A B8