"IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS" When using overlock machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following. Read all instructions before using this overlock machine. DANGER- To reduce the risk of electric shock. 1. The overlock machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this overlock machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. WARNING- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons. 1.
Welcome to the Baby Lock Evolution Your Baby Lock Evolution provides chain stitching, cover stitching, and overlocking. The Baby Lock Evolution has an exclusive "Thread Delivery System" that eliminates confusing tension adjustments. The Evolution enables you to accomplish a perfect stitch with any type of thread on any type of fabric. You no longer need to guess at the correct tension adjustments. The Evolution is equipped with an exclusive Push to Thread "Electronic Extraordin Air Threading System".
T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S 2 Table of Contents OVERVIEW ...................................................................................................................... 4 How Your Machine Operates .................................................................................. 4 Overview of the Evolution ....................................................................................... 5 Accessories ...........................................................................................
Table of Contents (Cont.) Converting from 3-Thread to 2-Thread Overlock.................................................. 35 2-Thread Flatlock - Wide ...................................................................................... 36 2-Thread Flatlock - Narrow ................................................................................... 37 Blanket Stitch - Decorative Stitch.......................................................................... 38 Ladder Stitch - Decorative Stitch ............
O V E R V I E W How Your Machine Operates Sometimes called an overlock machine or overlocker, the serger is different from any conventional sewing machine you have used. Awareness of its simple operation will enable you to become more proficient in its use. Please read all instructions before using your new machine. A serger is kind of a knitting process that loops two, three or four threads together to create a stitch.
Overview of the Evolution O V E R V I E W 1. Upper looper positioning lever 18. Threading lever 2. Presser foot adjusting screw 19. Chain looper threading port 3. Thread cutter 20. Threading button 4. Presser foot thread release lever* 21. Differential feed adjusting lever 5. Chain/cover stitch needle tension dial 22. Handwheel 6. Needle height viewing area 23. Lower looper threading port 7. Needle clamp screws 24. Power switch 8. Snap-on presser foot 25. Overlock stitch selector 9.
O V E R V I E W Accessories Your Baby Lock Evolution serger has a built-in accessory compartment. To open, swing the "lid" on the thread spoolstand to the right to reveal the tray holding some of the accessories listed below. Others may be found in the machine packing materials.
Needles Your Baby Lock Evolution serger is set up to use either Schmetz or Organ ELx705CF needles size 90/14. This is suitable for most medium and heavyweight fabrics. For lightweight fabrics use size 80/12, ELx705CF needles. The ELx705CF needle is a semi-ballpoint design and is suitable for knits and wovens. Thread All types of thread may be used on your Baby Lock, but 100% long-staple polyester thread, crosswound on a cone, consistently provides the best stitch performance.
O V E R V I E W Setting Up Your Evolution 1. Remove machine from box A After removing the packing materials from the box, gently lift your Baby Lock serger by grasping the handle provided on the top of the machine. Place the machine on a serger sewing table or any level surface that provides ample work area to the left. Place the foot controller in a pedal stay, if desired, and place it under the sewing table. 2. Plug in the machine Plug the power cord into the machine first, then into a wall outlet.
Setting Up Your Evolution (Cont.) 6. Position the telescopic thread guide. Raise the telescopic thread guide to its highest position. Rotate the shaft to the left and right until each section "clicks" into a locked position (fig. D). 7. Thread guide extension To install: Snap & lower. Place plastic support of thread guide extension on top of main telescopic thread guide. Support the main guide with one hand and snap the extension guide to the back with your other hand (fig. D). Lower into position.
Your machine is pre-set to sew an overlock with a chain stitch. The upper blade is engaged to cut the fabric while sewing. Of course, you may select to engage or disengage the cutting blade. You can change the blade cover to the sewing table and lock the upper looper down when sewing only the chain stitch. Cutting Blade Lock Switch 5 3..5 0 M 6.0 3. 5 LO CK O V E R V I E W A To lock cutting blade down: Turn the dial clockwise 180 degrees to see "LOCK" on the top.
Thread Cutter There is a thread cutter located on the left side of your Evolution. At the end of a seam, sew off the fabric edge and continue sewing to create a 5-6 inch (12.5-15cm) thread chain. Bring the chain of thread up and from the back to front through the thread cutter. Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment The presser foot pressure has been preset at the factory and rarely needs adjustment.
O V E R V I E W Stitch Length/Rolled Hem A The stitch length / rolled hem adjusting dial is conveniently located just to the left of the front cover, near the base plate (fig. A). The dial shows two stitchlength ranges, from 0.75, for the shortest stitch, to 4 for the longest. As the dial indicates, one range is for standard sewing and one is for rolled edging or narrow seaming. Simply turn the dial aligning the desired setting with the indicator mark on the machine.
Differential Feed O V E R V I E W Your Baby Lock serger is equipped with differential feed.The set of feed dogs work independently in order to ensure smooth sewing on all fabrics. When the differential feed adjusting lever, located at the machine's right, front edge is set on "N" for normal feeding, the feed dogs move the same distance. This is the setting to use for most fabrics and applications. A When the dial is set above "N" (fig.B), the front feed dog will feed more fabrics than the back.
O V E R V I E W Overlock Thread Delivery System The Baby Lock Evolution revolutionizes the way a serger works with its exclusive overlock Thread Delivery System. You no longer have to manually adjust the tension settings for the type of overlock stitch you are sewing. Select the type of overlock stitch you wish to serge, the Evolution will automatically feed the correct amount of thread through the needles, the loopers and thread guides to form a perfect stitch every time.
Chain/Cover Stitch Tension Dials The tension system of the chain and cover stitches are completely separate from the system being used on the overlock stitches. Unlike the thread delivery system of the overlock stitches, the tensions of the chain / cover stitch needles and chain looper are adjusted by dials located on the outer sides of your Evolution. Needle Tension Dial The needle tension dial is located on the top left side of the machine.
O V E R V I E W 2-Thread Subsidiary Looper Either needle thread may be engaged for 2-thread overlock sewing A 1. Open the front cover and the blade cover, cut the upper looper thread just above the threading port (fig. A). Raise the presser foot and pull out the clipped thread from under the foot. Remove the upper looper thread from the machine. 2. Rotate the handwheel to bring the upper looper to its lowest position. B 3. Rotate the subsidiary looper up and to the left (fig.
Notes: 17
T H R E A D I N G Threading Preparation When using threads on cones or king spools place the cone or spool securely over the cone holders furnished on your machine. To avoid bending the thread stand, you may need to place one hand under the stand while positioning the cone. The cone holders prevent the cone or spool from spinning, enabling the thread to feed evenly (fig.A). A Large spools with Cone Holders.
Threading Your Evolution Your Baby Lock Evolution is equipped with an exclusive "Electrionic Extraordin Air Threading System" for fast, easy threading of the upper, lower, and chain loopers. One touch of the "Push to Thread" button will automatically thread the loopers. It is no longer necessary to use tweezers for threading the thread guides. If a looper thread breaks or runs out, just re-thread it. There is no need to follow a specific threading sequence.
T H R E A D I N G Lower Looper 1. With the presser foot up and threding lever in the threading position (fig. A page 19). 2. Place the thread cone or spool on the "LOWER LOOPER" spool pin on the thread stand. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide "L" directly above the spool (fig.C,page 19). Snap the thread into the thread guide "L" at the top of the machine and through the slot above the front cover (fig. A). 3. Pull 18 inches (40cm) of thread through guide.
Chain Looper 1. With the presser foot in the up position, open the front cover and move the threading lever into the threading position (fig. A page 19). 2. Set the stitch selector lever to "D" position for easy threading of the chain looper tension dial. 3. Place the thread cone or spool on the "Chain Looper" spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide extension C directly above the spool (fig. C, page19). 4.
T H R E A D I N G Chain / Cover Needles Left Chain/Cover Needle C-1 1. Raise presser foot, place the thread on the "Chain Needle 1" spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide "C1" directly above the spool. See drawings below for reference. 2. Bring thread down from the telescopic antenna thread guide into the far left chain/cover needle thread guide "C1". Then insert thread into "C1" slot until thread clicks in. This seats the thread into the tension.
Overlock Needles Left Overlock Needle - O-1 1. Place the thread on the "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 1" spool pin (fig. C, page 19). Bring the thread end through the telescopic guide directly above the thread. Bring the thread through thread guide at top of machine and down the "overlock needle I" thread path and in the guide just below the faceplate. Pull an 8 inch (20.5cm) length of thread through the guide. Follow the arrows as shown in the illustration. Thread the guides above the needle. 2.
T H R E A D I N G How To Use The Needle Threader A 1. Hold the needle threader with the arrow mark on top. Place the thread in the groove of the needle threader. (fig.A) 2. Push the needle threader against needle and slide down the groove of the needle to the eye. Push the thread into the eye of the needle. 3. With a point of the needle threader or the tweezers pull the loop of thread from the back of the needle, under the foot and to the back left.
Start To Sew When threading is complete, the loose threads should initially interlock on fabric. This is most important when sewing the chain or cover stitches. 1. Cut all threads to 4 inch (10cm) in length. 2. Place fabric under the presser foot directly below the needles (fig. A). A 3. Lower the presser foot. 4. Turn the handwheel toward you to form 2 or 3 stitches. 5. Start to sew slowly. T H R E A D I N G 6. After the first few stitches, stop and cut excess threads (fig. B). B 7.
T H R E A D I N G Clearing the Stitch Width Fingers As you sew, you will discover that maneuvering the fabric is different from conventional sewing because the threads form around the stitch fingers (fig. A). A To clear the stitch fingers, simply raise the presser foot, which releases all threads. Raise the needle(s). Then pull the threads gently from behind the foot (fig. B). The stitches are now released from the fingers (fig. C).
4-Thread Overedging Overedging to finish facings, hems and seams before construction, is one of the most basic uses of a serger, such as making a garment or project with 5/8 inch (16mm) pressed open seams (fig. A). To overedge, place the single layer of fabric in front of the presser foot, aligning the cut edge with upper cutting blade. Begin sewing, continuing to guide the fabric along the blade. The edge of the fabric should be trimmed, but not cut away.
O V E R L O C K S T I T C H E S 〈 E X P R E S S 〉 28 4-Thread Overlock With the Evolution overlock Thread Delivery System, the upper and lower looper threads lock together evenly over the cut fabric edge(s) to form a flat, non-rolling pattern of overlocking stitches on both sides of the fabric. The left (O1) needle thread interlocks with both looper threads at the stitching line to create the seam.
3-Thread Overlock - Wide The 3-thread overlock wide stitch is perfect for edge-finishing most woven fabrics and for seaming knits that do not require the extra durability that a fourth thread provides. To convert your serger to a 3-thread overlock wide (5.5-7.5mm), cut the O2 needle thread just above the needle eye (fig. A). Remove the O-2 needle and thread completely from the machine. Re-tighten the needle clamp screw slightly to prevent the screw from working out (fig. B).
O V E R L O C K S T I T C H E S 〈 E X P R E S S 〉 30 3-Thread Overlock - Narrow To convert to narrow 3-thread overlock (3.0-5.0mm), cut the O-1 needle thread (fig. A). Remove the O-1 needle and O-1 needle thread completely from the machine. Tighten the needle clamp screw slightly to prevent the screw from working out (fig. B). Place needle into O-2 needle clamp position and tighten screw. Move the stitch selector lever to "B".
3-Thread Overlock - Narrow Hem Narrow Hem is an attractive finish for light to medium weight fabrics. Remove the O-1 needle and needle thread completely from the machine. Clear the stitch fingers. Turn the stitch length adjusting dial clockwise to the rolled hem range. Set the length at "1" (fig. A) and the stitch width at 3.0 (fig. B) for a smooth decorative finish. A Move the stitch selector lever to "C".
O V E R L O C K S T I T C H E S Rolled Edging The rolled edge setting is used to achieve the narrowest stitch possible (1.5mm) on your Baby Lock serger. The stitch is suitable for seaming sheer and lightweight fabrics and for edging and hemming lightweight fabrics. 3-Thread Rolled Edge With the stitch selector set on "D", a narrow hem can become a rolled edge. The fabric edge rolls around the stitch finger.
Seaming Sheers Use the 3-thread rolled hem setting when sewing sheer fabrics. Set the stitch length at 2.5. Sew the seams, aligning the fabric edge with the serger's seam guides, trimming away the excess seam allowance. O V E R L O C K Lettuce Edge A B C A frilly or "lettuce" edge can be created on most light and medium weight stretch and on bias edges of soft, woven fabrics. It makes a pretty decorative edging for activewear, lingerie, accessories and children's wear.
O V E R L O C K S T I T C H E S 〈 〉 E X P R E S S 34 3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow Flatlock seams are most suited to fabrics which do not ravel such as interlock knits, tricot, sweatshirt fleece and synthetic suede. The needle thread is carried below the fabric and to the cut edge of the fabric. The lower looper thread rides along the cut edge of the fabric for stability. The edges pull open and flatten within the stitch for a non-bulky join (fig. A).
2-Thread Overlock The 2-thread function provides an economical and less bulky means of overedging all fabrics. The standard 2-thread overlock is the same as a 2-thread flatlock stitch. When sewn with specialty threads, 2-thread sewing makes decorative seams and edges for activewear, children's clothing , ruffles, and hemlines. Converting from 3-Thread to 2-Thread Overlock Either overlook needle may be engaged for 2-thread overlock sewing. 1. Open the front cover and the blade cover.
O V E R L O C K S T I T C H E S 〈 E X P R E S S 〉 36 2-Thread Flatlock - Wide A When sewn on a fold, flatlocking can create a decorative effect within the body of a garment or project. Either follow placement lines on your pattern or design your own special effects by stitching the fabric before laying out pattern pieces. Then open the fabric fold until the flatlock stitching lies flat (fig. A). Be sure to sew a test sample first. Looper thread B Needle thread C For 2-thread flatlock - wide 1.
2-Thread Flatlock - Narrow Sew a 2-thread flatlock seam then pull the two fabric layers apart until the seam lies flat (fig. A). Because the threads show on the outside as well as the inside of the garment or project, the flatlock seam is often considered a decorative application (fig. B). A For 2-thread flatlock - narrow 1. Engage the threading lever in threading position. 2. Place needle thread on "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2" spool pin 3.
O V E R L O C K S T I T C H E S Blanket Stitch - Decorative Stitch A B C 〈 〉 38 1. Insert a size 90 top stitch needle in left overlock needle position. 2. Engage the threading lever in threading position. 3. Place a heavy decorative thread that will be used in the needle on "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 1" spool pin and thread the needle thread through upper looper thread path. (See below illustration.) 4.
Ladder Stitch - Decorative Stitch Set up the machine for 2-thread flatlock - wide but the needle threading path is different for this technique. Ladder Right Side 1. Insert a size 90 top stitch needle in left overlock needle position. 2. Engage the threading lever in threading position. 3. Place a heavy decorative thread that will be used in the needle on "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 1" spool pin and thread the needle thread through upper looper thread path. (See below illustration.) 4.
O V E R L O C K S T I T C H E S Wave Stitch The Wave Stitch provides a decorative "wavy" edging on fabric. (This is not to be confused with "Lettuce Edge" on page 33). The upper looper thread and the lower looper thread gradually appear every 25 stitches to create a stitch that looks like a "Wave". When using different color specialty threads (pages 76 /77) for the upper or lower loopers, the Wave stitch creates an attractive stitch for edging.
3-Thread Wave Stitch 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. Move the Wave Selector lever from "OVERLOCK" to "WAVE". Cut the threads from the thread cones and remove from the thread paths. Engage the threading lever in threading position for threading the loopers (page 19). Place the right needle thread cone on the OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2 spool pin. Slip the right needle thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread.
O V E R L O C K S T I T C H E S 〈 E X P R E S S 〉 42 3-Thread Rolled Wave Stitch 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. Move the Wave Selector lever from "OVERLOCK" to "WAVE". Cut the threads from the thread cones and remove from the thread paths. Engage the threading lever in threading position, for threading the loopers (page 19). Place the right needle thread cone on the OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2 spool pin. Slip the right needle thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread.
3-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch You can also get the wave stitch in the back of fabric by crossing the upper and lower looper threads before the threading port. This Reversed Wave Stitch is attractive for expressive stitch with decorative cover stitches. (fig. A) A NEEDLES O-2 LENGTH 0.75-2.5 WIDTH 5.0 STITCH SELECTOR B WAVE SELECTOR WAVE S T I T C H E S 〈 1. Move the Wave Selector lever from "OVERLOCK" to "WAVE". 2. Cut the threads from the thread cones and remove from the thread paths. 3.
C H A I N / C O V E R S T I T C H 〈 E X P R E S S 〉 44 Chain Stitching The chain stitch is formed using two threads, one thread in the needle and one thread in the chain looper. Chain Stitching looks like a straight stitch on the top of the fabric while the chain looper thread forms a chain on the underside of the fabric. The chain stitch has stretchability that is not found in the conventional locked straight stitch from a sewing machine.
Chain Stitching (Cont.) *Tension Adjustment Balanced tension under side Balanced tension Chain stitch has correct tension when the needle thread sews a straight seam on the top side and the chain looper thread forms loops on the under side of the fabric. C H A I N / C O V E R S T I T C H 〈 top side Needle thread is too loose Needle thread is too tight Turn the chain/cover needle thread tension dial to a lower number. Or turn the chain looper tension dial to a wider dash for tighter tension.
C H A I N / C O V E R S T I T C H Cover Stitch - Right Narrow - 3mm The narrow cover stitch consists of two rows of straight stitching on the top side of the fabric with an overlock stitch on the underside of the fabric. This stitch is very common in the garment industry to hem knit garments. The narrow cover stitch is used on fine knits such as jersey and single knits for hemming or topstitching. The cover stitch is not limited to knit fabrics. It also works well with woven fabrics.
Cover Stitch - Right Narrow (Cont.) *Tension Adjustment Balanced tension under side Balanced tension Cover stitch has correct tension when the needle thread sews two rows of straight stitching on the top side and the chain looper forms a zig zag on the underside of the fabric. C H A I N / C O V E R S T I T C H 〈 top side Needle thread is too loose Needle thread is too tight For a looser tension turn the chain /cover needle thread tension dial to a lower number.
C H A I N / C O V E R S T I T C H 〈 E X P R E S S 〉 48 Cover Stitch - Left Narrow - 3mm The narrow cover stitch consists of two rows of straight stitching on the top side of the fabric with the overlock stitch on the underside of the fabric. This stitch is very common in the garment industry to hem knit garments. The narrow cover stitch is used on fine knits such as jersey and single knits for hemming or topstitching. The cover stitch is not limited to knit fabrics. It also works well with woven fabrics.
Cover Stitch - Left Narrow (Cont.) *Tension Adjustment Balanced tension under side Balanced tension Cover stitch has correct tension when the needle thread sews two rows of straight stitching on the top side and the chain looper forms a zig zag on the underside of the fabric. C H A I N / C O V E R S T I T C H 〈 top side Needle thread is too loose Needle thread is too tight For a looser tension turn the chain /cover needle thread tension dial to a lower number.
C H A I N / C O V E R S T I T C H Cover Stitch - Wide - 6mm The wide cover stitch consists of two rows of straight stitching on top the fabric with an overlock stitch on the underside of the fabric. This stitch is very common in the garment industry to hem heavier knit fabrics such as double knits, sweatshirt fleece, and polar fleece. The wide cover stitch is not limited to knit fabrics. It also works well with medium to heavy woven fabrics.
Cover Stitch - Wide - 6mm (Cont.) *Tension Adjustment Balanced tension under side Balanced tension Cover stitch has correct tension when the needle thread sew two rows of straight stitching on the top side and the chain looper forms a zig zag on the underside of the fabric. C H A I N / C O V E R S T I T C H 〈 top side Needle thread is too loose Needle thread is too tight For a looser tension turn the chain / cover needle thread tension dial to a lower number.
C H A I N / C O V E R S T I T C H 〈 E X P R E S S 〉 52 Triple Cover Stitch - 6mm The Triple Cover Stitch can be used for topstitching, hemming, and elastic application . The stitch can also be used as a decorative stitch upside down with the overlock side on the right side of the fabric. The garment industry uses the Triple Cover Stitch frequently in activewear. The Triple Cover Stitch is formed using all three "C" needle positions and the chain looper.
Triple Cover Stitch (Cont.) *Tension Adjustment Balanced tension under side Balanced tension Triple Cover stitch has correct tension when the needle thread sew three rows of straight stitching on the top side and the chain looper forms a zig zag on the underside of the fabric. C H A I N / C O V E R S T I T C H 〈 top side Needle thread is too loose Needle thread is too tight For a looser tension turn the chain / cover needle thread tension dial to a lower number.
C O M B I N A T I O N S T I T C H 〈 E X P R E S S I V E 〉 54 4-Thread Safety Stitch The 4-thread safety stitch is perfect for all types of woven fabrics ranging from fine to heavy weight fabrics. This stitch is designed to seam and overlock the edge in one step, thus creating a garment industry standard safety stitch. As well as woven fabrics, the 4- thread safety stitch is for stabilizing knits, sweater knits and long seams on woven fabrics.
4-Thread Safety Stitch (Cont.) 4-Thread Safety Stitch: 2-Thread Chain w/2-Thread Wide Overlock 5/8 inch (16mm) 1/2 inch (13mm) 3/8 inch (9.5mm) Chain Looper Tension Dial Size Needle Looper Stitch Length Stitch Width Stitch Selector Chain Needle Tension Dial 5/8 inch (16mm) C-1, O-1 C,L, Sub Looper 2.5-4.0 7.5 A 5 Chain Stitch 1/2 inch (13mm) C-2, O-1 C,L, Sub Looper 2.5-4.0 7.5 A 5 Chain Stitch 3/8 inch (9.5mm) C-3, O-1 C,L, Sub Looper 2.5-4.0 7.
C O M B I N A T I O N S T I T C H 〈 E X P R E S S I V E 〉 56 5-Thread Safety Stitch The 5-thread safety stitch is perfect for all types of woven fabrics ranging from fine to heavy weight. This stitch is designed to seam and overlock the edge in one step, thus creating a garment industry standard stitch. As well as woven fabrics, the 5-thread safety stitch is for stabilizing knits, sweater knits and long seams on woven fabrics.
5-Thread Safety Stitch (Cont.) 5-Thread Safety Stitch: 2-Thread Chain w/3-Thread wide Overlock 5/8 inch (16mm) 1/2 inch (13mm) 3/8inch (9.5mm) Stitch Width Stitch Selector Chain Needle Tension Dial Chain Looper Tension Dial Needle Looper 5/8 inch (16mm) C-1, O-1 U,L,C 2.5-3.5 7.5 A 5 Chain Stitch 1/2 inch (13mm) C-2, O-1 U,L,C 2.5-3.5 7.5 A 5 Chain Stitch 3/8 inch (9.5mm) C-3, O-1 U,L,C 2.5-3.5 7.
C O M B I N A T I O N S T I T C H 〈 E X P R E S S I V E 〉 58 7-Thread Wave Stitch 7-Thread Wave Stitch is a combined stitch of 3-Thread Wave and 4-Thread triple cover stitch. This stitch looks gorgeous with decorative threads appearing on wave stitch and triple cover stitch. For the 7-Thread Wave Stitch: 1. Use standard blade cover. 2. Thread upper looper according to either 3-thread wave stitch or 3-thread rolled wave stitch (page 41 or 42).
7-Thread Wave Stitch (Cont.
C O M B I N A T I O N S T I T C H 〈 E X P R E S S I V E 〉 60 7-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch 7-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch is a combined stitch of 3-Thread Reverse Wave and 4-Thread triple cover stitch. This stitch looks gorgeous with decorative threads appearing on wave stitch and triple cover stitch in the back of fabric. For the 7-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch: 1. Use standard blade cover. 2. Thread upper and lower loopers for the 3-thread reversed wave stitch (page 43).
7-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch (Cont.
C O M B I N A T I O N S T I T C H 〈 E X P R E S S I V E 〉 62 8-Thread Stitch 8-Thread Stitch is a combined stitch of 4-thread overlock and 4-thread triple cover stitch. The 8-thread stitch is perfect for garment construction on heavy weight woven fabrics and used as a decorative topstitching with decorative overlock edge finish. The stitch is very durable as well as being a decorative stitch. The stitch width is 5/8 inch (16.0mm) wide. For the 8-Thread Stitch: 1. Use standard blade cover. 2.
8-Thread Stitch (Cont.
C O M B I N A T I O N S T I T C H Expressive Stitches: Chain/Cover Stitches Combined with Overlock Stitches With the great features of Overlock Stitching and Chain/Cover Stitching on the Evolution, many different stitches branch off from the basic "Express" stitches. The following combinations can let you "Express" your creativity as never before. Use the "Stitch Selection Chart"at the back of the manual for threading your Evolution with the different combinations.
Expressive Stitches (Cont.
T E C H N I Q U E S Turning Corners - Chain Stitch Sew to the point in fabric where you want to turn a corner. Stop the machine. Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) by hand, making sure the needle is going down in the fabric. Slowly start to raise the needle OUT OF FABRIC. Stop when you see the eye of the needle. (The point of the needle will still be in the fabric.) Raise the presser foot (fig A), and slowly pivot the fabric (fig B). Lower the presser foot and continue to sew (fig C).
Turning Outside Corner - Overlock A 1. Stitch along one edge until you reach the corner. Take one stitch off the edge of the fabric (fig. A). (As you approach the edge, you may want to stop and manually turn the handwheel towards you.) 2. Raise the needle(s) to the highest position. 3. Clear the stitch fingers, and rotate the fabric to reposition the needle at the previous row of stitching (fig. B). Gently pull up on all threads to remove slack and resume stitching (fig. C).
T E C H N I Q U E S Flat Hemming - Cover Stitch A 1. Leave one seam on the garment open. 2. Measure, turn up and press hem on garment. 3. On right side of garment mark hem allowance with marking pen. 4. Place garment right side up under the presser foot, aligning the marked hem with the needles. Make sure both needles are positioned on the raw edge of the hem (fig A). 5. Sew hem. 6. Sew seam on garment. Note: Optional guide or attachments will help with hemming (fig.B). Ask your Baby Lock retailer.
Blind Hemming - Overlock Your Baby Lock Evolution can create a sturdy, nearly invisible blindhem. A B 1. Set the machine for 2-Thread Overlock with the O-2 needle threaded. Set the stitch width at 5.0 and the stitch length at 4.0 in the standard range. 2. Fold up the hemline and press it in place. Then fold the hem allowance back against the fabric right side to create a fold about 1/4 " from the top edge of the hem as shown (fig. A). 3.
T E C H N I Q U E S Inserting Tapes - Overlock The slot in the standard presser foot is designed to guide stabilizing tape, narrow elastic or decorative ribbon into the stitching. Insert tape or elastic into the slot and under the back of the foot (fig. A). Adjust the stitch width to match the tape width. Place the fabric under the foot and stitch (fig. B). A B Inserting Tapes - Cover Stitch The slot on the standard foot can be used with the narrow, wide, or triple cover stitches.
Flatlock "Decorative" - Overlock A B C The flatlock stitch need not be limited at seamlines. When sewn on a fold, flatlocking can create attractive decorative effects within the body of a garment or project. Either follow placement lines on your pattern or design your own special effects by stitching the fabric before laying out pattern pieces. 1. Set the machine for 2-thread flatlock - wide (page 36). 2. Turn the cutting blade lock switch clockwise to disengage the upper cutting blade. 3.
T E C H N I Q U E S Securing Ends - Overlock The serger stitch will not unravel readily, and in most cases serged seams are secured by an intersecting seam. If that's not the case, these are several options for securing seam (fig. A). A B C D E 72 1. Leave a 3 inch (7.5cm) chain, separate the threads and tie a knot. 2. Apply a dot of seam sealant on the thread chain at the fabric edge. Allow to dry and cut off the excess thread chain. 3. Leave a 3-4 inch (7.
Securing Ends - Overlock (Cont.) To lock the end of the seam: 1. Take one stitch off the end of the seam (fig. A). 2. Raise the presser foot and bring the needle(s) to the highest position. Pull back gently on the fabric to clear the stitch fingers. 3. Turn the fabric over, end to end (fig. B), and reposition it under the presser foot with the needle at the seam edge, aligned with the previous needle line (fig. C). 4.
T E C H N I Q U E S 74 Securing Chain and Cover Stitching The Chain Stitch and Cover Stitch can easily be removed. Trim the chain tail to edge of fabric at the "end" of the seam and pull on the chain looper thread on underside of the fabric. This will give you the opportunity to "Unsew" an incorrect seam very easily. To secure the chain stitch or cover stitch, at the end of the seam, bring the needle thread(s) to the back of the fabric and tug on the needle threads to secure them.
Notes: T E C H N I Q U E S 75
S P E C I A L T Y T H R E A D S Using Specialty Threads Beautiful stitches can be formed by serging with specialty threads, cords, and ribbons. These heavy or shiny threads can be used to enhance the appearance of a stitch, add strength and elasticity, or create special effects. It depends on the thread you choose for the chosen technique. Some specialty threads work well through the needle and loopers, while others are too heavy to be threaded through the needle and are for looper use only.
Bypassing the Threading Port Heavy weight threads can be used through your regular looper thread paths. Specific techniques may require that the thread bypass the thread port for the thread pull to be loosened. Start with the machine threaded with regular serger thread. 1. Open front cover and raise the presser foot. 2. Just above the threading port, clip the looper thread to be replaced. Pull the thread out of the upper guides and remove the cone. 3. Place the specialty thread on the spool pin.
S P E C I A L T Y T H R E A D S 78 Looper Threading Tool A B 1. Open the front cover and raise the presser foot. 2. At the threading port, cut the looper thread that is to be replaced. Remove thread from under the foot and the upper thread guides. Replace cone of thread with specialty thread. 3. With the threading lever engaged in the threading position. 4. Thread specialty thread into the upper thread guides, leaving an 18 inch (40cm) tail above the threading port. 5.
Thread Cradle for Loopers 1. Open the front cover and raise the presser foot. 2. At the threading port, clip the looper thread that is to be replaced. (fig.A) Remove thread from under the foot and the upper thread guides. Replace cone of thread with specialty thread. 3. With the threading lever engaged in the threading position (fig. B) turn handwheel towards you to close looper tubes (fig. C). 4.
S P E C I A L T Y T H R E A D S Specialty Thread Guide Chart OVERLOCK STITCHES Topstitching Buttonhole Twist (Medium weight) Wooly Nylon (Medium weight) Metallic Threads (Lightweight) APPLICATION Decorative Edging Decorative Flatlocking Rolled Hem Soft seams on Lingerie and sportswear Decorative Edging Decorative Topstitching 4-Thread Seams Not recommended Use in loopers only For decorative exposed seams.
Specialty Thread Guide Chart (Cont.) OVERLOCK STITCHES Clear Nylon (Lightweight) ※1 Lingerie Thread, Rayon or Polyester Machine-embroidery Thread (Lightweight) ※2 Lingerie and light-weight fabrics, edging of fine fabric, fine rolled hem Decorative Thread: Décor, Candlelight, Pearl Crown Rayon (Heavy weight) ※3 APPLICATION Techniques requiring thread invisibility.
M A I N T E N A N C E Troubleshooting Before taking your machine in for service, check the following: Machine fails to start: 1. Are electrical plugs properly connected? 2. Is the power switch on? 3. Check household circuit breaker or fuse. 4. Is the lock button release lever in the unlocked position? Thread breaks: 1. Is the machine threaded correctly? Check each thread path carefully. 2. Is the correct needle inserted for the particular stitch? - C-1, C-2, C-3, O-1, or O-2? 3.
Troubleshooting (Cont.) Stitch Unbalanced: 1. Is the serger threaded correctly? 2. Is the proper presser foot on the serger? 3. Is the correct needle inserted and threaded? Chain or Cover Stitch unbalanced: 1. Is the thread in the tensions? 2. Are the tensions set correctly for the chain/cover needles? 3. Is the tension dial set correctly for the chain looper? 4. Is the chain looper threaded correctly? 5. Is the needle thread(s) in the correct tension disk? Overlock Stitching unbalanced: 1.
M A I N T E N A N C E Replacing Needles Needle Identification (fig. A)- C3 C2 C1 The chain/cover stitch needle are on the front portion of the needle clamp and are identified by C-1,C-2 and C-3. C-1-Left chain/cover stitch needle can be used for chain stitch, left narrow cover stitch, wide cover stitch or triple cover stitch. C-2-Center chain/cover stitch needle can be used for a chain stitch, left narrow cover stitch, right narrow cover stitch or triple cover stitch.
Replacing Cutting Blades The fixed blade is made of a special long lasting steel and does not require frequent replacement. If necessary, contact your nearest retailer for replacement of the blade. The upper moving blade is made of a softer steel material and will require replacement. A spare blade is provided with the machine for replacement if necessary. The spare blade is located in the thread spool stand accessory compartment.
M A I N T E N A N C E Cleaning Your Baby Lock will operate at best performance if it is kept clean at all times. The serger's cutting action creates much more lint than you will find on conventional sewing machine. Your serger's major moving parts are well protected and do not need to be oiled. However, we recommend that you use the cleaning brush often during garment construction in order to keep lint off the blades, the needle bar, the feed dog mechanism and loopers.
Technical Data Stitch Types: Chain Stitch Left (C-1), Center (C-2), Right (C-3) Cover Stitch Narrow Left Narrow Right Wide Triple Overlock Stitch 4-Thread Overlock (narrow and wide) 3-Thread Overlock (narrow and wide) 3-Thread Flatlock 3-Thread Rolled Hem 3-Thread Wave 3-Thread Rolled Wave 2-Thread Overlock (narrow and wide) 2-Thread Flatlock (narrow and wide) Combined Stitch 5-Thread Safety Stitch 6-Thread Stitch 7-Thread Stitch 8-Thread Stitch Stitch Width: T E C H N I C A L D A T A Cover Stitch Tripl
S E L E C T I O N C H A R T 88 C1 - O1 C2 - O1 C3 - O1 C1 - C2 - O1 C1 - C3 - O1 C2 - C3 - O1 C1 - C2 - O2 C1 - C3 - O2 C2 - C3 - O2 C1 - O1 - O2 C2 - O1 - O2 C3 - O1 - O2 (Reversed Wave) " " " " " " " " 2.5 - 4.0 " " 2.5 - 4.0 " " U-L-C U-L-C " " 2.5 - 4.0 " " U-L-C " " 2.5 - 4.0 " " " 1.0 - 2.5 " " U-L-C U-L-C " " 7.5 2.5 - 4.
C1 C2 C3 C1 - C2 C2 - C3 C1 - C3 " " " " " " " " 2.5 - 4.0 " " " " " 2.0 - 3.0 2.5 - 4.0 L-C-sub looper C1 - O1 C2 - O1 C3 - O1 C1 - O2 C2 - O2 C3 - O2 C " " 2.0 - 3.0 C C1 - C2 - C3 " C " " 5.5 " " 2.0 - 3.0 " 2.0 - 3.0 " " " " 2.5 - 4.0 " " " " " C " " 5.5 " " 2.5 - 4.0 " " L-C-sub looper " " -- " " -- 7.5 -- " " 7.5 5.5 2.5 - 4.
BLE8W(2)-TA EI-33(2)-E 2009 6.