Instruction Manual Manual de instrucciones Bedienungsanleitung Manuel d'instructions 1300MDC
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: Read all instructions before using this overlock sewing machine. DANGER_____To reduce the risk of electric shock: 1. The appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. 2. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. 3. Always unplug before re-lamping. Replace bulb with same type rated max.
NORMAS DE SEGURIDAD IMPORTANTES Cuando se usa un aparato eléctrico deben respetarse las siguientes normas de seguridad: PELIGRO_____para reducir el riesgo de electrochoque: 1. No dejar nunca la máquina de punto cadeneta y cobertura sin vigilancia si ella está enchufada. 2. Después de coser y antes de los trabajos de mantenimiento, la máquina debe desconectarse quitando el enchufe de la red eléctrica. 3. Antes de cambiar la bombilla, desenchufar la máquina.
WICHTIGE SICHERHEITSHINWEISE Beim Gebrauch eines elektrischen Gerätes sind folgende Sicherheitsmassnahmen zu beachten: GEFAHR_____Zum Schutz vor elektrischem Schlag: 1. Die Overlockmaschine nie unbeaufsichtigt stehen lassen, solange sie am Stromnetz angeschlossen ist. 2. Nach Gebrauch und vor einer Reinigung die Maschine immer vom Stromnetz trennen. 3. Vor einem Glühlampenwechsel immer Netzstecker herausziehen. 1300MDC: max. 15W (120V), max.10W (220 -240V), Glühlampen verwenden.
PRESCRIPTIONS DE SECURITE IMPORTANTES L'emploi d'un appareil électrique exige d'observer les mesures de sécurité suivantes: DANGER_____Pour la protection contre tout choc électrique: 1. Ne pas laisser la surjeteuse sans surveillance tant qu'elle est raccordée au réseau. 2. Après usage et avant un nettoyage, séparer toujours la machine du réseau. 3. Retirer la fiche du réseau pour changer une ampoule. Employer des ampoules pour modèle 1300MDC: max. 15W (120V), max. 10W (220 - 240V).
Welcome Willkommen Dear customer Liebe Kundin, lieber Kunde, Congratulations on your decision to buy the BERNINA serger / overlocker! It is made to the highest standards and we hope it will give you countless hours of satisfying sewing time. Whether your project is garment sewing, home decoration or even patchwork/ quilting, by cutting, sewing and neatening in one smooth operation your BERNINA Overlocker will give your work a professional look.
Contents Safety regulations ............................................................. 1 Welcome ........................................................................... 5 Contents ............................................................................ 6 1. Machine Overview and Installation 1.1. Details of the Machine ▪ Front View ................................................................. 10 ▪ Presser Foot Area .....................................................
Indice Reglas de seguridad ......................................................... 2 Bienvenida ........................................................................ 5 Indice ................................................................................. 7 1. Vista general de la máquina y puesta en marcha 1.1. Detalles de la máquina ▪ Vista por delante ....................................................... 10 ▪ Campo de costura ....................................................
Inhalt Sicherheitsvorschriften ...................................................... 3 Willkommen ....................................................................... 5 Inhalt ................................................................................. 8 1. Maschinenübersicht und Inbetriebnahme 1.1. Details der Maschine ▪ Vorderansicht ............................................................ 10 ▪ Nähbereich ...............................................................
Table des matiéres Consignes de sécurité ....................................................... 4 Welcome ........................................................................... 5 Table des matieres ............................................................ 9 1. Aperçu sur la machine et mise en service 1.1. Détails de la machine ▪ Vue de face ............................................................... 10 ▪ Secteur de couture ...................................................
1.1. Details of the Machine / 1.1. Detalles de la máquina 1.1. Details der Maschine / 1.1. Détails de la machine 1 12 13 11 7 8 9 10 6 14 16 15 5 4 3 25 26 17 18 19 21 27 20 22 23 1 24 2 6 5 2 4 3 10 Vorderansicht Vista por delante Vue de face Presser foot area Nähbereich Campo de costura Secteur de couture 1. Looper cover with built in knife guard 2. Looper cover opening indent 3. Cloth plate 4. Sewing light 5. Thread take-up cover 6. Presser foot pressure regulating knob 7.
1.1. Details of the Machine / 1.1. Detalles de la máquina 1.1. Details der Maschine / 1.1. Détails de la machine Inside looper cover 12 1 11 10 2 1. Selection lever for overlocking or roll hemming 2. Lower knife 3. Cutting width adjusting dial 4. Lower knife setscrew 5. Micro thread control lever 6. Lower looper auto threader 7. Upper looper release lever 8. Handwheel indicator window 9. Lower looper 10. Upper looper 11. Threading diagram 12. LCD contrast Hinter dem Greiferdeckel 1 1.
1.2. Machine Setup / 1.2. Regulación de la máquina 1.2. Einrichten der Maschine / 1.2. Equipement de la machine Foot Controller 1 Plug foot control into the machine socket (A) and then into main socket (B). The foot control regulates the sewing speed. The sewing speed can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the pressure on the foot control. “WARNING” B A This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other).
1.2. Machine Setup / 1.2. Regulación de la máquina 1.2. Einrichten der Maschine / 1.2. Equipement de la machine Thread Guide C Push the support rod firmly into the socket on the back of the machine. Raise the support rod (C) fully, turning slightly until the position catches engage. Position the thread guide (D) on the thread stand so that the arrow is to the front. D Guía-hilo Estirar completamente el soporte telescópico del guía-hilo y girarlo hasta que se enganche en la posición correspondiente (C).
1.2. Machine Setup / 1.2. Regulación de la máquina 1.2. Einrichten der Maschine / 1.2. Equipement de la machine Placing the thread cones / spools 1 The anti-vibration cone should be used with the wider edge at the bottom on the spool holder pin when sewing with cones. Colocación de los conos de hilo/ bobinas Para conos normales colocar los antivibradores en las espigas con la parte ancha hacia abajo.
2.1. Basic Operating Procedures / 2.1. Manejo 2.1. Bedienung / 2.1. Commandes Power/light switch The power/light switch is conveniently placed on the handwheel side of the machine in front of the socket. 0 = Off I = On with light Interruptor principal y de la luz El interruptor principal y de la luz se encuentra bien visible en la parte del volante, delante del enchufe de la máquina.
2.1. Basic Operating Procedures / 2.1. Manejo 2.1. Bedienung / 2.1.
2.1. Basic Operating Procedures / 2.1. Manejo 2.1. Bedienung / 2.1. Commandes Changing the presser foot • Switch the machine off (power switch "0") • Raise the presser foot. • Raise the needles. Turn the handwheel in the normal direction (as indicated by the arow) until the red stop mark of the handwheel indicator is centered in the window. Press the catch (C) to release the presser foot from the clamp. Raise the presser foot shank to the highest position (B) and remove the presser foot to the left.
2.1. Basic Operating Procedures / 2.1. Manejo 2.1. Bedienung / 2.1. Commandes Looper cover To open, press to the right with your thumb in the indent provided and tilt the cover towards you. To close push it up and press lightly to the right. The cover engages automatically. Safety switch: The machine does not run when the looper cover is opened. 2 Tapa de la lanzadera Para abrir la tapa de la lanzadera hay que empujarla con el pulgar hacia la derecha y abrirla hacia sí mismo.
2.1. Basic Operating Procedures / 2.1. Manejo 2.1. Bedienung / 2.1. Commandes Handwheel The handwheel turns anti-clockwise, in the direction as indicated by the arrow above the handwheel.
2.1. Basic Operating Procedures / 2.1. Manejo 2.1. Bedienung / 2.1. Commandes A 2 B Inserting the needles Needles can be inserted quickly and easily with the practical needle inserter (A). Switch the machine off ( Power switch to "0") Disconnect machine from electricity supply. Raise the needles. Turn the handwheel in the normal direction (as indicated by the arow) until the red stop mark of the handwheel indicator is centered in the window. Lower the presser foot.
2.2. Needle and Thread / 2.2. Aguja e hilo 2.2. Nadel und Faden / 2.2. Aiguille et fil Needles Your BERNINA overlocker/serger is prepared to hold needles of the system 130/705H (household needles). For standard applications use universal needles of the sizes No.70 -90 (equivalent to 10-14 in the US). For some delicate cover and chainstitch work the performance might be better, if you change to JLx2 Needles. Note, that with JLx2 needles the recommended thread tension is about 1 notch lower.
2.2. Needle and Thread / 2.2. Aguja e hilo 2.2. Nadel und Faden / 2.2. Aiguille et fil Thread selection Sewing and special overlock threads are manufactured in a wide variety of types, weights and combination fibres. It is worth investing in good quality threads for perfect sewing results. Decorative threads specially made for overlockers (available on cones) are also becoming widely available.
2.2. Needle and Thread / 2.2. Aguja e hilo 2.2. Nadel und Faden / 2.2. Aiguille et fil Thread - needle selection table Thread All purpose overlock thread 120/2 (polyester) Needles 70-90 Where Application 2 Needles and looper threads For all overlock- and cover stitch work. Polyester-continuous filaments Loopers only Neatening edges Woolly nylon Loopers only Soft seams in knits, rolled hems. Spun Polyester 80-90 Needles, and looper threads Seams in all fabrics.
2.3. Adjustments and Settings / 2.3. Regulación y manejo 2.3. Einstellen und Bedienen / 2.3. Réglage et utilisation Stitch length 2 Die S tichlänge kan n stufenlos und während des Nähens eingestellt werden. Die Stichlänge ist stufenlos einstellbar im Bereich von 1 und 4 mm. Die meisten Overlockarbeiten werden mit einer Stichlänge von 2,5 mm genäht. Largo del punto Longueur de point El largo del punto puede regularse durante la costura, y a progresión continua, entre 1 mm y 4 mm.
2.3. Adjustments and Settings / 2.3. Regulación y manejo 2.3. Einstellen und Bedienen / 2.3. Réglage et utilisation Micro Thread Control (mtc) 2 This machine is equipped with a patented fine tuning feature called mtc. This will help you to get easier control of your seam quality, with less effort. For threading the machine to any stitch configuration always adjust mtc to the neutral position (N).
2.3. Adjustments and Settings / 2.3. Regulación y manejo 2.3. Einstellen und Bedienen / 2.3. Réglage et utilisation Differential Feed Setting There are two feed dogs one front (C) and one rear (D). The two feed dogs move independently and the distance each feed dog travels during one complete movement can be adjusted. The differential feed prevents fluting or waving in knitted or stretch fabrics and movements between the layers of fabric.
2.3. Adjustments and Settings / 2.3. Regulación y manejo 2.3. Einstellen und Bedienen / 2.3. Réglage et utilisation Differential Feed Adjustment G H Simply turn the dial in the direction desired for fully variable adjustment while sewing. Test sew. Effect Fabric 2 Wave-free seams (G) Thick wool knits, hand knitted articles, very stretchy fabrics 1.5 Wave-free seams (H) Cotton, silk, synthetic jersey, sweatshirt fabrics and fine knits N Normal feed (I) Woven fabrics 0.
2.3. Adjustments and Settings / 2.3. Regulación y manejo 2.3. Einstellen und Bedienen / 2.3. Réglage et utilisation LCD indication 2 Stitch No. Needle position cover/chainstitch Needle position overlock Chain looper thread tension dial Thread tension dial LCD indication button LCD Contrast Lighter Upper knife position Cutting width Stitch length Roll Hemm Selection Lever Upper looper release Extension plate Upper looper converter LCD setting button Diffrential feed 1.
2.3. Adjustments and Settings / 2.3. Regulación y manejo 2.3. Einstellen und Bedienen / 2.3. Réglage et utilisation 3. Adjust user's settings No. Operation 1 2 Indication Remarks 2 Indication of User's Setting Push Select item from User's Setting for change Repeatedly press until the value you want to modify is displayed inverted. 3 Push Indication of Setting Bar Select this value by pressing and show actual setting. 4 Push Indication of Setting Bar Adjust the recommended value.
2.3. Adjustments and Settings / 2.3. Regulación y manejo 2.3. Einstellen und Bedienen / 2.3. Réglage et utilisation Indicación LCD Positión de la aguja punto de cobertura / cadeneta No.
2.3. Adjustments and Settings / 2.3. Regulación y manejo 2.3. Einstellen und Bedienen / 2.3. Réglage et utilisation 3. Regulación de los valores de la utilizadora No. Función 1 2 Indicación Observaciones 2 Indica la regulación de la / del utilizador / utilizadora Pulsar la tecla Selección del valor que se desea modificar Pulsar nuevamente hasta que aparezca el valor deseado en forma invertida.
2.3. Adjustments and Settings / 2.3. Regulación y manejo 2.3. Einstellen und Bedienen / 2.3. Réglage et utilisation LCD Anzeige Nadel position Cover/Kettenstich Stich No. 2 Nadel position Overlock Fadenspannung für Kettengreifer Fadenspannung LCD Anzeigetaste LCD Kontrast einstellung Heller Position des Obermessers Messerposition Obergreifer Ausschalthebel Stichlänge RollsaumWahlhebel Cover Abdeckung Obergreiferabdeckung Differential LCD Funktionstaste 1. Willkommen - und Stichbild Anzeige No.
2.3. Adjustments and Settings / 2.3. Regulación y manejo 2.3. Einstellen und Bedienen / 2.3. Réglage et utilisation 3. Benutzerdefinierte Anzeigewerte einstellen No. Funktion 1 2 Anzeige Bemerkung 2 Zeigt Benutzer Werte an Anwahl des Wertes der vom Benutzer verändert werden möchte Taste drücken Wiederholt drücken, bis der gewünschte Wert invertiert dargestellt wird. 3 Indikation der Einstelleiste Taste drücken Wert durch Drücken von auswählen, dann Anzeige des aktuellen Wertes.
2.3. Adjustments and Settings / 2.3. Regulación y manejo 2.3. Einstellen und Bedienen / 2.3. Réglage et utilisation Indication LCD Position de l’aiguille point enveloppant/chaînette 2 Position de l’aiguille point surjeteuse Tension du fil pour boucleur de chaînette Tension du fil No.
2.3. Adjustments and Settings / 2.3. Regulación y manejo 2.3. Einstellen und Bedienen / 2.3. Réglage et utilisation 3. Réglage des valeurs d’affichage définies par l’utilisateur No. Action 1 2 Indication Remarque 2 Indication des valeurs basiques Appuyer sur la touche Sélectionner la valeur à modifier Appuyez plusieurs fois sur jusqu’à ce que la valeur souhaitée s’affiche inversée.
2.4. Threading - General Information / 2.4. Enhebrado - información general 2.4. Einfädeln - Allgemeine Informationen / 2.4. Enfilage - Informations générales Threading Preparation • Switch the machine off (power switch "0") • Support rod with thread guide must be fully raised. • Open the looper cover. • Raise the needles. Turn the handwheel in the normal direction (as indicated by the arow) until the red stop mark of the handwheel indicator is centered in the window. • Raise the upper knife.
2.4. Threading - General Information / 2.4. Enhebrado - información general 2.4. Einfädeln - Allgemeine Informationen / 2.4.
2.5. Stitch Formation Overview Needle position Cover / Chain 2 L C Thread tension & Colour R Overlock Cover Chain and OL 2 Thread OL 4/3 Thread OL Stitch Stitch type No. Stitch formation top Chain looper L Left needle Center needle Left needle Right needle purple yellow green R bottom 1 4-thread overlock with integrated safety seam — — — --- 4.0 4.0 2 3-thread super stretch — — — --- 4.0 4.0 3 3-thread overlock (left needle) — — — --- 4.
Thread tension & Colour Right needle Lower looper Upper looper blue Lower looper Upper knife position Cutting width Roll Hemm Selection Lever Stitch length Upper Difrential Extenlooper feed converter sion plate 2 Upper looper release red --- --- 4.0 4.0 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 2.5 1-3 2.5 N --- 4.0 4.0 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 4.0 4.0 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 4.0 8.0 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 5.0 8.5 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 5.0 4.0 1.0 1.
2.5. Vista general de los puntos Posición Aguja Cobertura / Cadeneta 2 Tensión del hilo y color L C Overlock Cobertura Cadeneta y Overlock (OL) OL de 2 hilos OL de 4/3 hilos Tipo No. del de punto punto Punto arriba Lanzadera para punto de cadenata R L R abajo Aguja izquierda Aguja izquierda Aguja central Aguja derecha Lila Amarillo Verde — --- 4.0 4.0 — — --- 4.0 4.0 — — — --- 4.0 --- Overlock de 3 hilos (aguja derecha) — — — — --- --- 4.
Tensión del hilo y color Aguja derecha Lanzadera superior Azul Lanzadera inferior Lanzadera inferior Posión cuchilla superior Palanca selectora para Anchura dobladillo de corte enrollado Largo del punto Palanca Transformador reguladora lanzadera para Tranporte ciega Placa de lanzadera diferecial superior extensión superior 2 Rojo --- --- 4.0 4.0 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 2.5 1-3 2.5 N --- 4.0 4.0 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 4.0 4.0 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 4.0 8.0 1-3 2.
2.5. Stichübersicht Nadeln position Cover / Kettenst Cover Kettenst. & OL 2 Faden OL 4/3 Faden OL Stich familie 2 Fadenspannung & Farbe L C R Overlock Stich No. Stich oben Kettengreifer L Linke Nadel Mittlere Nadel Linke Nadel Rechte Nadel Violett Gelb Grün R unten 1 4-Faden Overlock mit integrierter Sicherheitsnaht — — — --- 4.0 4.0 2 3-Faden Super Stretch — — — --- 4.0 4.0 3 3-Faden Overlock (Linke Nadel) — — — --- 4.
Fadenspannung & Farbe Rechte Nadel Unter Greifer Obergreifer Blau Unter Greifer Obermesser Messer RollsaumDifferen- Obergreifer- Abdeckposition Wahlhebel Stichlänge tial ung abdeckung 2 Obergreifer Ausschalthebel Rot --- --- 4.0 4.0 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 2.5 1-3 2.5 N --- 4.0 4.0 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 4.0 4.0 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 4.0 8.0 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 5.0 8.5 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 5.0 4.0 1.0 1.0 N --- --- --- 4.5 6.5 1.0 1.
2.5. Aperçu sur les points Position de Aiguille Point enveloppant / de chaînette 2 Tension du fil & Couleurs L C Pour point surjeteuse Point enveloppant Point de chaînette & de surjet Surjet à 2 fils Surjet à 4/3 fils Famille de Point points no Point en haut Boucleur point Aiguille gauche chaînette R L Aiguille gauche Aiguille droite R en bas Violet Jaune Vert — --- 4.0 4.0 — — --- 4.0 4.0 — — — --- 4.0 --- Surjet à 3 fils (aiguille droite) — — — — --- --- 4.
Tension du fil & Couleurs Aiguille droite Boucleur supérieur Bleu Boucleur inférieur Boucleur inférieur Couteau supérieur Position de couteau Levier de Recousélection vrement pour les du Plaque de ourlets Longeur boucleur reccuvreroulés de point Différentiel supérieur ment Levier de déclenchement du boucleur supérieur 2 Rouge --- --- 4.0 4.0 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 2.5 1-3 2.5 N --- 4.0 4.0 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 4.0 4.0 1-3 2.5 N --- --- --- 4.0 8.0 1-3 2.
3.1. Threading 4/3 Thread OL (Stitch No 1-8) 3.1. Enhebrado de overlock de 4/3 hilos (punto N°.1-8) 3.1. Einfädeln 4/3 Faden OL (Stich No.1-8) 3.1. Enfilage du point de surjet à 4/3 fils (point no.1-8) 1. Upper looper thread, blue markings Turn the handwheel in the normal direction (as indicated by the arrow) until the red stop mark is completely centered in the window. Place the spool on the spool holder pin as illustrated.
3.1. Threading 4/3 Thread OL (Stitch No 1-8) 3.1. Enhebrado de overlock de 4/3 hilos (punto N°.1-8) 3.1. Einfädeln 4/3 Faden OL (Stich No.1-8) 3.1. Enfilage du point de surjet à 4/3 fils (point no.1-8) 2. Lower looper thread, red markings Turn the handwheel in the normal direction (as indicated by the arrow) until the red stop mark is completely centered in the window. Place the spool on the spool holder pin as illustrated.
3.1. Threading 4/3 Thread OL (Stitch No 1-8) 3.1. Enhebrado de overlock de 4/3 hilos (punto N°.1-8) 3.1. Einfädeln 4/3 Faden OL (Stich No.1-8) 3.1. Enfilage du point de surjet à 4/3 fils (point no.1-8) 3. Right-hand needle, green markings Turn the handwheel in the normal direction (as indicated by the arrow) until the red stop mark is completely centered in the window. Place the spool on the spool holder pin as illustrated.
3.1. Threading 4/3 Thread OL (Stitch No 1-8) 3.1. Enhebrado de overlock de 4/3 hilos (punto N°.1-8) 3.1. Einfädeln 4/3 Faden OL (Stich No.1-8) 3.1. Enfilage du point de surjet à 4/3 fils (point no.1-8) 4. Left-hand needle, yellow markings Turn the handwheel in the normal direction (as indicated by the arrow) until the red stop mark is completely centered in the window. Place the spool on the spool holder pin as illustrated.
3.2. Threading 2 Thread OL (Stitch No 9-15) 3.2. Enhebrado de overlock de 2 hilos (punto N° 9-15) 3.2. Einfädeln 2 Faden OL (Stich No. 9-15) 3.2. Enfilage du point de surjet à 2 fils (point no. 9-15) Upper Looper Converter 2 Thread serger / OL stitch formations are achieved by following the threading instructions for the 3 / 4 thread configuration, but without the thread for the upper looper (blue markings). Instead the Upper Looper Converter has to be used.
3.3. Roll Hemming (Stitch No 7, 8 & 13) 3.3. Dobladillo enrollado (punto N° 7, 8 & 13) 3.3. Rollsäumen (Stich No. 7, 8 & 13) 3.3. Ourlets roulés (point no. 7, 8, 13) Roll hemming D By disengaging the stitch tongue in the stitch plate (move the Rollhem Selection Lever towards you) and increasing the lower looper tension a roll hem is achieved. • Turn the handwheel in the normal direction -as indicated by the arow- until the red stop mark matches the window.
3.4. Trial Sewing - Serger / Overlock Mode 3.4. Costura de prueba - Overlock 3.4. Nähprobe - Overlock 3.4. Essai de couture - surjet Sewing test 3 A 5 - 6 cm B After threading make a trial run. Always use a double layer of fabric to check the stitch formation and thread tension properly. • Switch the machine on (" I "). • Set all tensions to 4. • Stitch length, differential, cutting width. • Lower the knife. • Lower the presser foot.
3.6. Practical Sewing - Serger / OL Mode 3.6. Costura práctica - Overlock 3.6. Praktisches Nähen - Overlock 3.6. Couture - surjet Sewing in the thread chain - seam begin • Sew to form a 3-4 cm (2") chain. • Position fabric and sew one stitch. • Insert needles (Needles down). • Raise the presser foot. • Pull the thread chain gently and from the left place it under the presser foot (in the tape guide if wanted). • Lower presser foot. • Start sewing, sewing over the thread chain. • After approx.
3.6. Practical Sewing - Serger / OL Mode 3.6. Costura práctica - Overlock 3.6. Praktisches Nähen - Overlock 3.6. Couture - surjet Sewing in the thread chain - seam end • Sew to the end of the seam. • Raise the needles. • Raise the presser foot. • Remove work carefully towards the back. • Turn work over and towards you and lay it under the presser foot so that the needle enters the fabric with the first stitch. • Lower the presser foot.
3.6. Practical Sewing - Serger / OL Mode 3.6. Costura práctica - Overlock 3.6. Praktisches Nähen - Overlock 3.6. Couture - surjet Gathering Einreihen Using the differential feed, a single layer of fabric can be gathered before sewing it to the garment. For example, sleeve heads and lower edges, yokes, lace edging or frills. Adjustment: • Stitch: 4-thread overlock • Differential feed: 2 • Stitch length: 3-4 • Cutting width: 2-3 Increase the needle thread tension (6-8) for a tighter gather.
3.6. Practical Sewing - Serger / OL Mode 3.6. Costura práctica - Overlock 3.6. Praktisches Nähen - Overlock 3.6. Couture - surjet Thread breakage during sewing Sew off immediately at an angle and remove the work. Re-thread. If the lower looper thread has broken, cut off both needle threads at the needles and remove surplus thread from below. First thread the looper and then the needles. Start sewing again about 2 - 3 cm in front of the break.
3.6. Practical Sewing - Serger / OL Mode 3.6. Costura práctica - Overlock 3.6. Praktisches Nähen - Overlock 3.6. Couture - surjet Blind stitch foot 1. 1. Attach the blind stitch presser foot (A) (See page 17 changing the presser foot ). 2. Thread the machine for a 3-thread overlock using the righthand needle (B) only. 3. Turn the stitch length adjustment dial (C) to 4. 4. Set the thread tension: Needle thread (green) = 3-4 Upper looper thread (blue) = 3-5 Lower looper thread (red) = 4-5 5.
3.6. Practical Sewing - Serger / OL Mode 3.6. Costura práctica - Overlock 3.6. Praktisches Nähen - Overlock 3.6. Couture - surjet Elasticator foot Use a 3- or 4-thread overlock. Use 3-thread overlock and the right-hand needle for 5-7 mm wide elastic. 4-thread for 5-12 mm elastics. 1. Attach the elasticator (A) (See page 13 changing the presser foot ). 2. Turn the stitch length adjustment dial (B) to 4. 3. Turn the presser foot pressure regulating knob (C) to position H.
4.1. Threading Chain and OL (Stitch No. 16-20) 4.1. Enhebrado punto de cadeneta y Overlock (punto núm. 16-20) 4.1. Einfädeln Kettenstich und OL (Stich No. 16-20) 4.1. Enfilage du point de chaînette et de surjet (points no. 16-20) Overview of Chain and OL Stitches A chain stitch can be added to several serger / OL Stitches, making them so called Safety Stiches. The threading of the serger / OL part remains the same as explained in the previous section.
4.1. Threading Chain and OL (Stitch No. 16-20) 4.1. Enhebrado punto de cadeneta y Overlock (punto núm. 16-20) 4.1. Einfädeln Kettenstich und OL (Stich No. 16-20) 4.1. Enfilage du point de chaînette et de surjet (points no. 16-20) 18. 3-thread overlock (right needle) + Chain stitch 18. 3 Faden Overlock (Rechte Nadel) und Kettenstich 18. Enhebrado overlock de 3 hilos (aguja derecha y punto de cadeneta 18. Surjet à 3 fils (aiguille droite) + point de chaînette 19.
4.1. Threading Chain and OL (Stitch No. 16-20) 4.1. Enhebrado punto de cadeneta y Overlock (punto núm. 16-20) 4.1. Einfädeln Kettenstich und OL (Stich No. 16-20) 4.1. Enfilage du point de chaînette et de surjet (points no. 16-20) Chain Stitch Looper, purple markings Place the spool on the spool holder pin as illustrated. (1,2) Bring the thread up from the spool and lay it from the front to the back into the guide. (3,4) Thread the guide. (5) Thread the tension dial. (6,7,8) Thread the guide.
4.1. Threading Chain and OL (Stitch No. 16-20) 4.1. Enhebrado punto de cadeneta y Overlock (punto núm. 16-20) 4.1. Einfädeln Kettenstich und OL (Stich No. 16-20) 4.1. Enfilage du point de chaînette et de surjet (points no. 16-20) Chain Needle, yellow markings Place the spool on the spool holder pin as illustrated. (1) Bring the thread up from the spool and lay it from the back to the front into the guide. (2) Thread the first machine guide. (3) Slip the thread through the groove.
4.2. Trial Sewing - Chain and OL 4.2. Costura de prueba - punto de cadeneta y Overlock 4.2. Nähprobe - Kettenstich und OL 4.2. Essai de couture - point de chaînette et de surjet Sewing test A 5 - 6 cm After threading make a trial run. Always use a double layer of fabric to check the stitch formation and thread tension properly. • Switch the machine on (" I "). • Set all tensions to 4. • Stitch length, differential, cutting width. • Lower the knife. • Lower the presser foot.
4.3. Adjusting Thread Tension - Chain and OL Mode 4.3. Regulación fina de las tensiones de los hilos - puntos de cadeneta y Overlock 4.3. Feineinstellen Fadenspannungen - Ketten- & OL Stiche 4.3. Réglage fin de la tension du fil – point de chaînette et de surjet 1 3 4 2 3 5 5 4 6 8 7 9 8 Check your trial run Nähprobe prüfen Control de la costura de prueba Vérification de l'essai de couture Thread tension Fadenspannung Tensión del hilo Tension de fil Chainstitch and OL (Stitch No.16-20) 1.
4.3. Adjusting Thread Tension - Chain and OL Mode 4.3. Regulación fina de las tensiones de los hilos - puntos de cadeneta y Overlock 4.3. Feineinstellen Fadenspannungen - Ketten- & OL Stiche 4.3. Réglage fin de la tension du fil – point de chaînette et de surjet Adjusting the thread tension A B Turn the tension dials by only half or one number, then test sew again and check the result. • The loops are formed on the underside.
5.1. Cover Stitch Functions / 5.1. Funciones del punto de cobertura 5.1. Cover Stich Funktionen / 5.1. Fonctions du point enveloppant Cover stitch A B C The 5 mm wide cover stitch is formed with two or three needle threads and one looper thread. The needle threads appear as two or three parallel lines on the right side. The 2.5mm cover stitch is sewn with one looper thread and two needle threads. The looper thread covers and neatens the seam on wrong side.
5.2. Preparation for Cover Stitch / 5.2. Preparación para los puntos de cobertura 5.2. Vorbereitung für Cover Stiche / 5.2. Préparation pour les points enveloppants Upper looper release For cover stitches the upper looper must be disengaged. - Open the looper cover. - Bring the needles into the lowest position. Turn handwheel in the normal direction (as indicated by the arrow) until the purple stop mark is completely centered in the window. - Press the release lever (A) back. The upper looper is inactive.
5.2. Preparation for Cover Stitch / 5.2. Preparación para los puntos de cobertura 5.2. Vorbereitung für Cover Stiche / 5.2. Préparation pour les points enveloppants Upper knife arm The knives are not used for cover and chain stitch and the upper knife arm is raised to provide additional space to the right of the needle. Raising the upper knife arm: (- Looper cover open) - Raise the upper knife. - Pull the lever.(1) - Raise the upper knife arm.
5.3. Threading 4 Thread Cover (Stitch No. 21) 5.3. Enhebrado del punto de cobertura de 4 hilos (punto núm. 21) 5.3. 4-Faden Cover Stich einfädeln (Stich No. 21) 5.3. Enfilage du point enveloppant à 4 fils (Point No. 21) 1.Cover Stitch Looper, purple markings Place the spool on the spool holder pin as illustrated. (1,2) Bring the thread up from the spool and lay it from the back to the front into the guide. (3,4) Thread the guide. (5) Thread the tension dial. (6,7,8) Thread the guide.
5.3. Threading 4 Thread Cover (Stitch No. 21) 5.3. Enhebrado del punto de cobertura de 4 hilos (punto núm. 21) 5.3. 4-Faden Cover Stich einfädeln (Stich No. 21) 5.3. Enfilage du point enveloppant à 4 fils (Point No. 21) 2. Right Cover Stitch Needle, blue markings Place the spool on the spool holder pin as illustrated. (1) Bring the thread up from the spool and lay it from the back to the front into the guide. (2) Thread the first machine guide. (3) Slip the thread through the groove.
5.3. Threading 4 Thread Cover (Stitch No. 21) 5.3. Enhebrado del punto de cobertura de 4 hilos (punto núm. 21) 5.3. 4-Faden Cover Stich einfädeln (Stich No. 21) 5.3. Enfilage du point enveloppant à 4 fils (Point No. 21) 3. Center Cover Stitch Needle, green markings Place the spool on the spool holder pin as illustrated. (1) Bring the thread up from the spool and lay it from the back to the front into the guide. (2) Thread the first machine guide. (3) Slip the thread through the groove.
5.3. Threading 4 Thread Cover (Stitch No. 21) 5.3. Enhebrado del punto de cobertura de 4 hilos (punto núm. 21) 5.3. 4-Faden Cover Stich einfädeln (Stich No. 21) 5.3. Enfilage du point enveloppant à 4 fils (Point No. 21) 4. Left Cover Stitch Needle, yellow markings Place the spool on the spool holder pin as illustrated. (1) Bring the thread up from the spool and lay it from the back to the front into the guide. (2) Thread the first machine guide. (3) Slip the thread through the groove.
5.4. Threading 3 Thread Cover (Stitch No. 22-24) 5.4. Enhebrado del punto de cobertura de 3 hilos (punto núm. 22-24) 5.4. 4-Faden Cover Stich einfädeln (Stich No. 22-24) 5.4. Point enveloppant à 3 fils (points no. 22-24) 3 Thread Cover Stitch Wide 1. Thread Cover Stitch Looper (purple), see page 66 2. Thread Cover Stitch Needle right (blue), see page 67 3. Thread Cover Stitch Needle left (yellow), see page 69 2 Punto de cobertura de 3 hilos, ancho: 1.
5.4. Threading 3 Thread Cover (Stitch No. 22-24) 5.4. Enhebrado del punto de cobertura de 3 hilos (punto núm. 22-24) 5.4. 4-Faden Cover Stich einfädeln (Stich No. 22-24) 5.4. Point enveloppant à 3 fils (points no. 22-24) 3 Thread Cover Stitch Narrow 1. Thread Cover Stitch Looper (purple), see page 66 2. Thread Cover Stitch Needle center (green), see page 68 3. Thread Cover Stitch Needle right (yellow) or left (blue), see page 67 / 69 2 Punto de cobertura de 3 hilos, estrecho: 1.
5.5. Trial Sewing - Cover / 5.5. Costura de prueba - cobertura 5.5. Nähprobe - Cover / 5.5. Essai de couture - point enveloppant Sewing Test After threading make a sewing test on a double layer of fabric to check the stitch formation and the thread tension. Cover stitch sewing test. - Plug the machine in and switch it on (power switch to "I") - Set the tensions to 3-5. - Set the stitch length to 3.5. - Set the differential feed to N. - Raise the presser foot and place the fabric under foot and needles (A).
5.6. Adjusting Thread Tension - Cover 5.6. Regulación fina de las tensiones de los hilos - cobertura 5.6. Feineinstellung Fadenspannungen - Cover 5.6.
5.7. Practical Sewing - Cover / 5.7. Costura práctica - cobertura 5.7. Praktisches Nähen - Cover / 5.7. Couture - point enveloppant Securing the seam end After removing your work turn it over to the wrong side. Secure the seam by pulling the loop (1) towards the left. If the looper thread is subsequently pulled to the upper side, the needle thread loops (2) are visible in the stitch formation and can also be pulled through to the wrong side and knotted.
5.7. Practical Sewing - Cover / 5.7. Costura práctica - cobertura 5.7. Praktisches Nähen - Cover / 5.7. Couture - point enveloppant Simple hem Einfacher Saum Dobladillo sencillo Ourlet simple Flat joining seam Flache Verbindungsnaht Stitch length: 3-4 Differential: N-2 (depending on fabric) - Mark hem depth and fold or press. - Place fabric under the foot and guide the folded edge along a line on the stitch plate. The hem is sewn and the raw edge on the wrong side is neatened simultaneously.
5.7. Practical Sewing - Cover / 5.7. Costura práctica - cobertura 5.7. Praktisches Nähen - Cover / 5.7. Couture - point enveloppant Edges with elastic Stitch length: 3-4 Differential: 0.7-N - Sew on elastic with 4-thread overlock. - Turn the raw edge to the width of the elastic and topstitch from the right side. Guide the fold along the right section of the foot or use one of the lines on the stitch plate as a guide. The hem is stretchy, durable and regains its shape after stretching.
5.7. Practical Sewing - Cover / 5.7. Costura práctica - cobertura 5.7. Praktisches Nähen - Cover / 5.7. Couture - point enveloppant Top stitching seams / ribbing / yokes Stitch length :3-4 Differential: 0.7-N - Fold or press seam to one side. - Edge stitch (or at distance desired) from the right. - Guide the edge of the fabric along the side sections of the foot. Cover stitch is perfect for top and edge stitching overlock seams in all stretch fabrics to give a professional, durable and decorative finish.
5.7. Practical Sewing - Cover / 5.7. Costura práctica - cobertura 5.7. Praktisches Nähen - Cover / 5.7. Couture - point enveloppant Gathering with chain stitch Single layers of fabric can be gathered with chain stitch and differential feed: Differential feed: 2 Stitch length: 4 Basic tension. Fruncido con punto de cadeneta Con el transporte diferencial pueden fruncirse telas finas.
6.1. Changing the Upper Knife / 6.1. Cambio de la cuchilla superior 6.1. Obermesser auswechseln / 6.1. Remplacer le couteau supérieur WARNING Please refer to the safety instructions. Changing the upper knife The upper knife (moving knife) is made from special hardened material. Should it get damaged, it can be replaced by your local BERNINA dealer. Changing the lower knife Main switch on "0" Disconnect machine from electricity supply. Turn handwheel towards you until needles are fully raised.
6.2. Replacing the Bulb / 6.2. Cambio de la bombilla 6.2. Glühlampe wechseln / 6.2. Remplacer l’ampoule Replacing the bulb Main switch on "0" Disconnect machine from electricity supply. Let the bulb cool down, then unscrew the bulb and replace it with a new one. The bulbs are max.15 Watt for 120V machines and max. 10 Watt for 220-240V machines. They are available from your local dealer. Cambio de la bombilla Desconectar la máquina, interruptor principal a „О“.
6.4. Troubleshooting Guide Problem Cause • Looper or cloth plate cover is open. • The main switch is not on. • The machine is not plugged in. • Close the looper or the cloth plate cover. • Switch machine on. (Main switch to “I”) • Insert plug into main socket. 18 15 12 Fabric does not feed evenly • Differential feed is wrongly adjusted. • Presser foot pressure is too low. • Lower or upper knife is blunt or wrongly positioned. • Check the differential feed setting. • Adjust the presser foot pressure.
6.4. Ayuda en caso de averías Problema: Causa: Solución: Página • Cerrar la tapa de la lanzadera o la tapa de la mesa de trabajo. • Conectar la máquina, interruptor principal a „I“. • Enchufar el cable de la máquina a la red eléctrica. 18 La máquina no cose: • La tapa de la lanzadera o la tapa de la mesa de trabajo está abierta. • El interruptor principal no está conectado. • La máquina no está enchufada. La tela no avanza regularmente: • El transporte diferencial no está ajustado correctamente.
6.4. Hilfe bei Störungen Problem: Ursache: Lösung: Seite Die Maschine näht nicht: • Der Greiferdeckel oder der Stoffauflagedeckel ist geöffnet. • Der Hauptschalter ist nicht eingeschaltet. • Die Maschine ist nicht angeschlossen. • Greiferdeckel oder Stoffauflagedeckel schliessen. • Maschine einschalten, Hauptschalter auf „I“. • Maschinenkabel mit Netzsteckdose verbinden. 18 Stoff wird nicht gleichmässig transportiert: • Differentialtransport ist nicht richtig eingestellt.
6.4. Comment éliminer soi-même les pannes Défaut: La machine ne coud pas: Cause: Remède: Page • Le couvercle du boucleur ou celui du plateau de travail est ouvert. • Le commutateur principal n’est pas enclenché. • Refermer le couvercle du boucleur ou celui du plateau de travail. • Enclencher la machine, mettre le commutateur principal sur („I“). • Relier le cordon de la machine au secteur. 18 • La machine n’est pas branchée.
6.5. Technical Data / 6.5. Datos téchnicos Technical data Cover stitch 3 needles, 1 looper: 5 mm 2 needles, 1 looper: 5 mm 2 needles, 1 looper: 2.
6.5. Technische Daten / 6.5. Spécifications techniques (voir additif) Technische Daten Cover Stich 3 Nadeln 1 Greifer: 5mm 2 Nadeln 1 Greifer: 5mm 2 Nadeln 1 Greifer: 2,5mm Kettenstich 1 Nadel 1 Greifer: 2 Faden Kettenstich 2 Nadeln 3 Greifer: 2 Faden Kettenstich + 3 Faden Overlock Stichmöglichkeiten: Overlock 2 Nadeln 2 Greifer: 4-Faden Overlock mit integr.
7. Optional Accessories / 7. Accesorio especial 7. Sonderzubehör / 7.
Instruction Manual Manual de instrucciones © Copyright 2005 by Fritz Gegauf AG CH-0000 Steckborn No. A915013M00A GB/E/D/F 5020107021 Bedienungsanleitung Manuel d'instructions 1300MDC 2006.
