Instructions / Assembly

04/23/20
Plan Your Installation
Measure the installation area and decide which direction the planks will
run. If possible, install the planks perpendicular to the ooring joists and
parallel to the longest wall in the room.
A oor will expand and contract with environmental changes such as
temperature and relative humidity so it is imperative that a ¾” expansion
space be left around the perimeter of the room and around all vertical
features (such as cabinets, stairways, etc.). This space can be covered by
baseboard and/or quarter/shoe moldings.
Rooms larger than 20’ x 20’ or if the ooring is being installed in a typical-
ly damp climate (coastal, etc.), extra expansion space may be needed. Call
Technical Services at 855-296-6857 for additional guidance.
It is best to pre-plan your ooring layout based upon the oor width.
Normally one row of planks must be ripped lengthwise in order to t. You
may elect to rip both the rst and last rows of ooring in order to balance
the appearance. If planks are ripped to a width of less than 1” wide, see
instructions below.
Install planks from several cartons of ooring at the same time so that you
can balance dark and light boards, plank lengths, plus other variations in a
pleasing manner.
Since both moldings and the oors are made from real wood, they can
sometimes vary in appearance. It is best to identify a ooring plank that
coordinates closely with the molding. Plan to install the complementary
ooring plank next to the molding.
Boards that are slightly bowed (curved) or crooked are normal in solid
ooring. They are not defective and can be installed. They will be held
in place by the fasteners. A pull bar may be needed to hold the planks into
place while nailing.
The tongues and grooves on the short ends are used for placement only
and do not t together tightly. The fasteners hold the planks in place.
Boards must be staggered so that there is a minimum of 6” between the
short ends of planks in adjoining rows. Avoid repeating end joint locations
visually across the installed oor.
Determine if your room is square by taking several measurements. If the
room is not square, you will need to cut the rst board to the contours of
the wall to insure you are working from a straight line.
Installing the Floor
Fig.5 Installing the rst rows. Select very straight boards to use in the
rst rows. The groove side should be facing the wall. At least the rst two
rows will have to be face & blind nailed as there will not be enough clear-
ance to use the ooring nailer. At the end of the rst row, put a 3/4” spacer
along the wall, measure the length of the last plank to t and cut.
Predrill nail holes approximately ½” from the groove edges using a 1/32”
bit. Space holes at least every 6” and be sure there are holes within 3” of
all ends. Also predrill holes at the same intervals at a 45-degree angle
down through the top of the tongue. Ensure the rst row is lined up on
the chalk line. Utilize 6 or 8d nails. Face-nail the groove side through the
predrilled holes, countersink the nails and use matching putty to cover.
Then blind nail at a 45-degree angle through the holes on the tongue side
ensuring the nails are countersunk to allow engagement of the next row.
Take care to not damage the face or edge of the ooring.
Utilize the leftover cut piece from the rst row to start the second row
if it is 6” or longer. Planks must be staggered. The minimum distance
between short ends in adjoining parallel rows should not be less than 6”.
The 2nd row should be face nailed and blind nailed in the same manner as
the rst row.
Continue face and blind nailing rows until you have enough clearance to
begin using your ooring nailer/stapler.
Dry lay/rack several additional rows of the ooring by working from
several cartons of ooring. Check the oor to ensure the boards are ar-
ranged in a visually pleasing manner. Utilize any boards with undesirable
features at the ends of rows cutting out the undesirable portion. Do NOT
cut the end boards at this point. Wait until the other planks in the row are
installed to ensure the last plank is cut to the proper length.
Use a board for practice so you can verify the settings on the nailer are
correct. Check for surface, tongue and edge damage. Adjust as necessary.
Install all other rows of ooring. Follow the nailing schedule below and
only nail through the tongue side at a 45-degree angle. Utilize 2” long
cleats/nails or staples in wood sub-oors and 1-1/2” fasteners if installing
into a wood sub-oor that has been built over concrete. It is permissible to
install planks with partially missing tongues as long as the nailing sched-
uled can be followed.
Installing under cabinet toe kicks, door jambs, etc. may require the use
of a pull bar to pull planks together.
The last rows will need to be installed in the same manner as the rst
rows. Follow the same schedule, pre-drill and face nail.
Rip the planks in the last row lengthwise to t if necessary. If the width
is less than 1”, glue the last row to the previous row BEFORE you install
it. Then face-nail these two rows as one row.
Fig.4
Establish a straight line by measuring a point out from the starting wall
in at least three places equal to the width of the ooring face, plus ¼”
for the tongue and ¾” for the expansion space. Snap a chalk line.
Fig.5
Fig.4
Width of
Flooring
Nail/Staple
Spacing
Nailing Spacing
from Both Ends
Stagger End Joints
with Parallel Rows
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