Installation Guide

Tools Needed for Floating Installation
• Foam underlayment
• 6-mil Polyethylene Film (if installing over concrete and your
foam underlayment does not have an integrated 6-mil poly lm)
• Tongue and groove adhesive or wood glue
• Chalk line and chalk
• 3/8” thick wood or plastic spacers
• Tapping block
• Pencil
• Tape measure
• Wood Chisel
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask
• Circular/rip saw-80 tooth blade
• Jamb saw
• Putty / Stain repair pen
Plan Your Installation
Measure the installation area and decide which direction the planks will
run. If possible, install the planks perpendicular to the ooring joists.
Planks will be better highlighted if they can run parallel to the main light
source.
A oating oor expands and contracts with environmental changes such
as temperature and relative humidity so it is imperative that an expan-
sion space equal to the thickness of the ooring planks be left around the
perimeter of the room and around all vertical features (such as cabinets,
stairways, etc.). For example, if you are installing a 3/8” thick oor, leave
a 3/8” expansion space.
Extra expansion space is required for larger spaces measuring more than
24 linear feet in either direction. Either use a T-molding or use an addi-
tional ¼” expansion space for each additional 12 linear feet.
The oor must not be restricted in any way that will prevent it from being
able to oat freely. Do not put any fasteners through the oor (nails,
screws, etc.) or pinch the oor in doorways, etc. Nail quarter round
through the base board, not the oor or expansion space. The oor can pull
apart or buckle if it is restricted.
It is best to pre-plan your ooring layout based upon the oor width.
Normally one row of planks must be ripped lengthwise in order to t. You
may elect to rip both the rst and last rows of ooring in order to balance
the appearance. The short ends of these ripped planks will need to be
glued together and weighted until dry. If planks are ripped to a width of
less than 2” wide, also use wood glue to afx the ripped planks lengthwise
to the abutting row of planks.
Install planks from several cartons of ooring at the same time so that you
can balance dark and light boards, plank lengths, plus other variations in a
pleasing manner.
Since both moldings and the oors are made from real wood, they can
sometimes vary in appearance. It is best to identify a ooring plank that
coordinates closely with the molding. Plan to install the complementary
ooring plank next to the molding.
Boards that are slightly bowed (curved) are normal in engineered ooring.
They are not defective and can be installed by applying slight pressure
on the board with one hand while utilizing a tapping block with the other.
Refer to Fig. 11 in these instructions.
Boards must be staggered so that there is a minimum of 9” between the
short ends of planks in adjoining rows. Avoid repeating end joint locations
visually across the installed oor.
Roll out underlayment and abut the edges per the manufacturer’s instruc-
tions. If installing over concrete, install a 6-mil poly lm rst (unless the
underlayment you are using includes a 6-mil poly layer).
Determine if your room is square by taking several measurements. If the
room is not square, you will need to cut the boards in the rst row to the
contours of the wall to insure you are working from a straight line.
Snap a chalk line equal to the width of the rst two rows to be installed (mi-
nus the locking groove) plus the required expansion space. This will give
you a straight line to work from.
The joints of the short ends of all planks in the rst and last rows should be
glued together, weighted and allowed to dry. This provides a stable founda-
tion for installing all of the rows.
Once the Flooring Installation is Complete
Remove the spacers along the walls once the installation is complete.
Install any necessary moldings taking care that they do not impede the
oor’s ability to expand and contract. Baseboards should be installed so
that they are slightly above the nished oor but not nailed into the oor.
Utilize putty and/or a stain pen as needed.
If a protective paper or cloth covering is being utilized, tape this covering to
its self rather than taping it directly to the hardwood oor.
04/01/20
Care and Maintenance for Your New Floor
Regularly sweep or vacuum up loose dirt that can dull your nish. Ensure
your vacuum is designed and safe for hardwood oors.
Periodically use a spray oor cleaner specically designed for hard
wood oors. Do not use liquid/paste wax, oil soap, silicone, ammonia
based cleaners as they can permanently dull or cloud the nish.
Floors should not be wet mopped. Do not use power scrubbers or steam
cleaners.
Use felt protectors under furniture legs.
Hard castors can dent the oor.
Spike heels, sport cleats can damage the oor.
Protect the oor when dragging heavy furniture or appliances over it.
Keep pets’ nails trimmed.
Use door mats to catch dirt and grit.
Maintain a normal temperature of 60-80 degrees F and a relative humidity
of 35-55%. The use of a dehumidier or humidier may be required in
some areas of the country to maintain these levels. Cupping, gapping, etc.
can occur if a proper environment is not maintained.