TM-2030 Technical Manual

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P12: Automatic reset on/off for amp hours described in section 6.2, step 3. It must be on to measure battery percent
full, but it may be turned off if the meter is used in a different application. When off, “amp hours” will never be reset to
zero except by using the manual reset button. The “Percent full” will then not work to provide battery percent full
information.
P13: “Battery Low” setpoint: This allows you to set the level at which the “low voltage battery reminders” will flash. It
also sets the audible low battery alarm as described in section P9 above. Set the value in volts that need to be attained for
the “B.Lo” reminder to light, or audible alarm to sound. Also see P9 and P13 on previous page.
P17: Time of Recording for Daily history data: This shows the number of hours that will elapse before the daily H7, H8
and H9 logged data will be recorded. So if the actual time is 10PM, and you want the day’s data to be recorded at 1AM,
enter “3” hours here.
P18: Voltage calibration: This is the “voltage calibration” adjustment if the voltage shown is not exactly correct. This
calibration is stable, and should not ever be necessary to adjust—but if you find you need or want to—follow these steps.
1. Get a multimeter that you know to be accurate. Carefully remove the TriMetric panel from its box to gain access to
the back of the unit. With the multimeter measure “volts” between the “G1” and “+” terminals that are on the back
of the TriMetric circuit board. While doing this you must be connected to a voltage source that is stable. (At the
factory for best accuracy we use a voltage exactly between two 1/10 volt readings—we use 29.95 volts and follow the
procedure below until we get to “29.9” on the meter.)
2. Switch to the P18 Program, and put it in the “program” mode (3 lights flashing). Observe “correct” value on the
multimeter--then push and hold “RESET” down until voltage on the TriMetric display jumps higher than the
multimeter reading. Release “RESET”. Then successively push “RESET” with many short pushes to gradually bring
the voltage down until it is agrees with your multimeter. At 12.05 volts it takes about eleven pushes to bring it down
by just 1/10 volt. It will go down faster with a higher battery voltage. When correct, push SELECT to finish.
P19: Program factory values. This reinstalls all the default (factory) values in all the program locations at once—so will
erase any data you have put in. Hold down the “RESET” button for several seconds until this occurs.
7. Important information about battery charging to keep from
killing your batteries
Even if you abuse your batteries they will probably work just fine—for awhile. By knowing how to care for
them you can extend their life to maximize their return to you.
1. Charging to correct voltage. Charging for sufficient time. Charging at frequent intervals.
2. Not often letting them become totally discharged, or left very long in a discharged condition.
3. For liquid electrolyte batteries, maintaining the water level always above the internal plates.
The most important thing to maintain your batteries is to charge them to correct voltage and current and “often”. We will
try to define both. The most common “battery crime” for which the penalty is having to replace your batteries too soon, is
charging with insufficient voltage, or not charging long enough to get them fully charged.
Charging voltage: One of the most important numbers to know about your batteries if you wish to maximize their life is
the “Recommended absorption charging voltage” for the batteries. (This is usually given for a battery temperature of 25
degrees C or 77 degrees F.) The typical well designed charger or charge controller used with “deep cycle” batteries (which
are the type of batteries designed to be periodically discharged and charged) starts by charging fairly fast (at a high rate of
amps), but the battery voltage may start out low if the battery is not well charged. Charging causes the battery voltage to
gradually rise over a period of possibly hours—but as soon as it rises to the “absorption charging voltage” the charger is
supposed to be smart enough to stop allowing the voltage to rise higher than this to avoid damage to the batteries—although
the charger will continue to send current to the batteries at this voltage while the current (amps) slowly declines. The
manufacturer of the batteries should specify what this voltage should be. Get information on charging parameters
from the manufacturer, or ask the dealer who sold them to you who hopefully should know. Unfortunately many do
NOT know. This voltage will be slightly different for different types of batteries: For example, 12 volt liquid electrolyte
lead acid batteries will have an absorption charging voltage of about 14.4 -15.0 volts. AGM or Gel batteries will have a
lower voltage, perhaps at 13.9-14.4 volts. (Multiply these by 2 or 4 for 24 or 48V systems.) Your charger(s) must then be
set to the battery manufacturer’s (not the charger manufacturer) recommended voltage. If the voltage is too low or too
high, battery life will be impaired. It is especially important to get this correct for the AGM or Gel types—not least because
they are even more expensive than liquid electrolyte types. Ideally you can adjust this voltage on every charger (or charge
controller) you have. Unfortunately some chargers do not leave much choice--and some do not charge to a high enough
voltage, and then you will have to settle for whatever the charger determines, at possible detriment to your batteries. If you