Unit installation

1-2

25 connector has 8 open collector lines for controlling relays or other devices, 8 inputs for reading

contact closures, and 8 analog inputs for reading voltages, temperatures, etc.

The main serial port connector and power jack use the same slot in the cabinet. This is the serial

port that you can connect to a computer or serial terminal to program the controller.

The slot in the top right is where a DB-25 connector for the DVR1 can be mounted. This

connector is wired to a small DVR interface board that plugs into the RLC-3's motherboard. Then

a short DB-25 cable goes from that connector to the DVR-1 itself.

The slot in the bottom right is where the autopatch goes (if you don't radio remote it). It has its

own power plug and an RJ-11 jack for the phone line. The DB-9 connector on the autopatch

should be connected to the bottom DB-9 on one of the radio cards with the included short DB-9

cable.

Step #2: Connect Power

- The RLC-3 was designed to run off of 12V DC. 11V to 14V should work fine.

- Locate the 2.50mm power connector included in your parts bag.

- Unscrew the plastic outer shield and thread your power and ground wires through it (20 gauge

suggested).

- Solder the +12V wire to the center pin of the 2.50mm connector.

- Solder the ground wire to the shield of the 2.50mm power connector.

- Screw on the plastic outer shield.

- When power is applied to the RLC-3 controller, the 5 LED's on the RLC-3 power board should

light, indicating proper board operation. If all of the LED's do not light, turn off the power

immediately.