Use and Care Manual
ARTICHOKES
Jerusalem—Cut the tubers into pieces so that
each knob has part of the main tuber attached. 4-6
weeks before the last frost date, plant the knobs
3-5 inches deep and 18-24 inches apart in rows
36-42 inches apart. Tubers are ready for digging
after the tops are killed by frost. Cut tops with a
mower and dig like potatoes or leave in the ground
and harvest throughout the winter. Freezing won’t
hurt the tubers, but a heavy straw mulch will keep
the ground from freezing and make digging easier.
ASPARAGUS
Plant 12-18 inches apart in spring or fall. Prepare
a trench 8 inches deep. Spread the crowns over the
soil and cover them with 2 inches of soil. Gradually
fill the trench with soil as the plants grow. (If your
soil is clay or heavy, you may wish to add compost.)
If planting in fall, fill the trench in completely. Each
spring, apply 3-5 pounds of fertilizer per 100 square
feet. Work into the soil before growth starts. Repeat
application after the harvest is complete. Cut the
tops back and mulch in late fall to help prevent deep
freezing and sudden changes in soil temperature.
Limit the first harvest to one or two cuttings by mid
June of the second year. A full crop can be harvested
the third year after planting, when the spears are
6-10 inches tall. (If planting 2-year crowns, you
should harvest a good supply the second year.)
Harvest for 6-8 weeks only, or until about the first of
July in the North. When harvesting, snap off or cut
spears at ground level to avoid injuring new growth.
Trenching in Asparagus
Visit Gurneys.com, Gardening-How To Videos to
view our “How to plant asparagus in a landscape” video.
BULBS
We recommend planting your bulbs as soon as
possible after they arrive. If planting must be
delayed, open bulb bags to allow air circulation and
place in a cool (45-55°F) location, away from direct
sunlight. Do not place bulbs where they can freeze.
An excellent option for bulb storage is a spare
refrigerator, though you should avoid storing your
bulbs with fruit. The fruit emits ethylene gas which
can be harmful to your bulbs.
Your bulbs will flourish in most types of well-
drained soil. If your soil is sandy, plant bulbs
1 inch deeper than the recommendation on the bag
label. If your soil is heavy clay, plant bulbs 1 inch
shallower than the label recommends. The addition
of light organic matter such as peat moss, leaf mold
or compost will improve your soil and provide
better drainage. After planting the bulbs, tamp the
soil with your hands to eliminate any air pockets.
Water thoroughly. Hardy bulbs, such as tulips
and daffodils, do not need to be lifted in the fall,
but a covering of mulch will help protect the bulbs
in colder climates. Leave the foliage on all your
bulbs after they bloom. Allow the foliage to turn
yellow and wither naturally. The leaves provide
nourishment to the bulbs for next season’s blooms.
In colder climates, tender bulbs such as gladiolus,
cannas, dahlias or calla lilies that are planted in the
spring, must be lifted in the fall. You may lift your
bulbs prior to a killing frost or as soon as the frost
has blackened the foliage. Dig up the bulbs gently,
being careful not to cut or damage them. Cannas
and dahlias can also be overwintered in zones 5-7
by covering with a 3- to 4-inch thick layer of mulch.
Store them in a well-ventilated, frost-free area until
the foliage has dried up. Remove the dried foliage
and place your bulbs in an unsealed paper bag, old
nylon stocking or a shallow, plastic-lined box with
a blanket of peat moss or vermiculite.
Summer-flowering tender bulbs require winter
storage temperatures between 45-60°F. An
ideal storage location would be the vegetable
compartment of a refrigerator or an unheated garage
or basement. Most modern basements aren’t cool
enough for winter bulb storage.
Note for Pink Daffodils—When pink daffodils
first unfold, the trumpet is a lovely apricot-yellow
color that gradually changes to a soft pink. It
is important to plant this variety in a shaded or
partially shaded area, since the trumpet color fades
in full sun.
EVERGREENS
Evergreens do best in fertile, well-drained soil and
prefer slightly acidic conditions—a soil with a pH
level range of 5.8-6.8.
Provide some form of temporary shade for newly
planted evergreens to help keep the sun from
scorching and drying them out. This is the leading
cause of young tree loss. Water well, 1-2 gallons
every 2 days for 2 weeks, then once every 7-10 days
if adequate rainfall of 1 inch a week isn’t received.
Prune juniper and cedar in summer; pine and spruce
in May or June before new growth hardens.
FRUIT TREES
Plant fruit trees as advised in the general planting
directions on page 1, following the spacing
recommendations from the Fruit Planting Chart
on this page.
This spacing, less than 50 feet apart, ensures good
pollination. Even trees that are self-fruitful bear
heavier crops when a second variety is planted
nearby.
Proper planting depth is also critical. The graft or
bud union (swollen area on the trunk, about 4-6
inches above the roots of all Gurney’s
®
fruit trees)
must be 1-2 inches above the soil surface (after
settling). With dwarf- and Li’l-BIG
™
-size trees,
permanent staking is mandatory immediately after
planting. Use our patented Tree Support System,
which lasts a lifetime and is very easy to install,
or drive a 6-7 inch stake at least 18 inches into the
ground near the tree and attach the trunk to it. If you
use twine, tie it loosely to prevent girdling.
Visit Gurneys.com, Gardening-How To
Videos to view our “Installing a tree support” video.
Additionally, young fruit trees are subject to damage
during winter months from foraging rabbits. Until
year four, the lower 18-24 inches of the trunk
require a protective barrier during winter.
As your trees grow, prune in early spring, removing
crossed or injured limbs and any branches which
rub against each other. This allows light into the
center of the tree. Don’t cut short spurs from the
main stem since these bear first fruit. The general
rule is to prune less during the juvenile or early
years, removing only the limbs that compete with
desired limbs. Starting in year five, prune out
shaded or crowded limbs annually in late winter.
Regular spraying stops insects before they can
damage your crop. Apply dormant oil before buds
begin to swell. Spray trees with liquid fruit tree
spray when flower petals fall. Make follow-up
applications every 10 days or so until the harvest
nears.
With proper care, fruit trees will remain productive
for many years. To maximize their productivity and
quality, thin excess fruit each year. For apples and
pears, remove one fruit per cluster. For peaches,
nectarines, plums and apricots, leave only one fruit
per 8-10 inches of limb space. Do this just after
the flower petals have fallen or when tiny fruits
become visible.
GARLIC
Garlic is adaptable to a wide range of soil types,
but prefers well-drained soil high in organic matter.
Plant hardneck types in late fall. Softnecks can be
planted in early spring or fall, depending on your
location. Just before planting, break bulbs apart
into cloves, making sure not to let the cloves dry
out. Plant cloves with pointed end up at least an
inch deep (2 inches for Elephant Garlic) and 4
inches apart. After planting, a layer of mulch may
be added to help retain moisture and maintain soil
temperature. The tops will begin to die back as
garlic reaches its peak maturity. Recommended
harvest time is when most, but not all, of the foliage
has died back. Hang your garlic up in a cool dry
place for at least 2 weeks to allow it to cure. It can
then be stored in mesh bags in a dark, cool, low
humidity area.
HEDGES
Dig a trench 12-18 inches wide, setting plants in
a straight line or an offset zigzag pattern at the
depth they grew in the nursery row. (An offset
pattern will give you a thicker, fuller hedge but may
require 1/3 more plants.) To stimulate branching,
pinch off the ends of each new shoot. When new
growth reaches 10-12 inches, trim it back several
inches. Hedges should be trimmed several times a
FRUIT PLANTING CHART
Planting Approx. Years to Avg.
Variety Distance Height Bearing Yield
Li’l-BIG
™
Apple 6 Ft. 5-7 Ft. 2-3 .5 Bu.
Std. Apple 25-35 Ft. 20-25 Ft. 4-5 10-20 Bu.
Semi-Dwf. Apricot 10-14 Ft. 12-14 Ft. 3-5 2-4 Bu.
Std. Apricot 15-20 Ft. 15-20 Ft. 5-7 3-5 Bu.
Bush Cherry 5 Ft. 4-8 Ft. 2-3 1-2 Qts.
Dwarf Cherry 5-7 Ft. 6-7 Ft. 4 2-5 Bu.
Dwf. Pie Cherry 8-12 Ft. 10-15 Ft. 2-3 1-2 Bu.
Std. Pie Cherry 25 Ft. 15-20 Ft. 3-4 2-5 Bu.
Std. Swt. Cherry 25 Ft. 25 Ft. 4-6 3-7 Bu.
Std. Nectarine 15-20 Ft. 15-20 Ft. 3-4 3-8 Bu.
Semi-Dwf. Nectarine 10-15 Ft. 12-14 Ft. 2-3 1-3 Bu.
Semi-Dwf. Peach 10-14 Ft. 12-14 Ft. 2-3 2-5 Bu.
Std. Peach 15-20 Ft. 20 Ft. 4-5 3-8 Bu.
Semi-Dwf. Pear 10-15 Ft. 8-15 Ft. 3-4 2-3 Bu.
Std. Pear 20-25 Ft. 20-30 Ft. 4-7 4-8 Bu.
Semi-Dwf. Plum 10 Ft. 12-14 Ft. 2-3 1-2 Bu.
Std. Plum 15-20 Ft. 15-25 Ft. 3-4 2-4 Bu.
Visit Gurneys.com, Gardening-How To Videos to
view all of our fruit tree planting, pruning and care videos.
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