Use and Care Manual
Visit Gurneys.com, Gardening-How To
Videos to view our “How to grow blueberry plants
in a container” video.
The plants have shallow root systems and must be
irrigated. This is detrimental to success, especially
in the first couple of weeks after planting and
when transplanting potted blueberries. Because
blueberries are grown in high proportions of peat,
when planted in heavier local soils any moisture
around the roots is immediately wicked away from
the root mass. Combat this by watering thoroughly
and often, until plants have time to spread their
roots into the soil. A heavy mulch will help retain
soil moisture and keep the roots cool. Prune off half
of the top growth and space plants 4-5 feet apart in
rows 8-10 feet apart. Incorporate plenty of organic
matter in and around the planting holes. Control
weeds with mulch instead of cultivation.
In cold climates, blueberries benefit from a thick
layer of mulch during the winter. Prune for fewer
but larger berries by removing old branches; fruit is
produced on year-old wood.
Pruning
Blueberries
Cut out
worn old
wood
Cut out
twiggy
stems
Cut out
weak
laterals
Cut out
heavy old stems
Cranberries—Grow this ground cover-like plant in
an environment similar to blueberries, spacing the
plants 3 feet apart. While the plants do not need to
be grown in a bog, they do prefer plentiful moisture.
Cover the plants when frost threatens in the spring
to prevent damage to flowers or fruits.
Currants, Gooseberries and Jostaberries—
These plants do best in rich soil that is cool and
moist but has good drainage. Plant 5 feet apart,
in rows 8 feet apart, in full sun where summers
are mild and in a partially shaded location where
summers are hot and dry. Trim stems back by 2/3
after planting. Prune in spring after flowering. Fruit
is produced on older wood—in the fall, remove any
wood more than 3 years old.
Elderberries—Elderberries thrive in moist, heavy
soil and do not tolerate drier conditions. Plant
7-20 feet apart in full sun. Plants grow 12-14 feet
tall; some pruning is necessary to maintain size
and shape. Berries are produced on the end of the
current season’s growth.
Grapes—Grapes thrive in fertile, well-drained soil.
Choose a site that offers protection from wind and
late frost. If possible, run vines east/west to reduce
shade cast by the trellis. Work in fair amounts of
compost before planting but don’t overfertilize. Set
the plants 8 feet apart in rows 10 feet apart. For the
first year, main stems should be allowed to grow
unchecked, and vines should be trained on a trellis
using two support wires. Prune in winter when
dormant but before the weather becomes too cold.
Canes that have borne fruit should be pruned back
sharply (see illustration below). Remove old canes
coming from the main stem and leave four new canes
(shoots that started to grow the previous spring).
The new canes should be cut back to 6 or 8 inches
and 2 or 3 buds. These buds, found at the joints,
produce the new shoots that bear leaves and grapes
the following summer. Four of these new shoots
will be used to repeat the same fruiting and pruning
process the following winter.
Before
pruning
After
pruning
Pruning Grapes
Visit Gurneys.com, Gardening-How To
Videos to view our grape vine planting and
pruning videos.
Goji Berries—Plants do best in well-drained soil
with good fertility and a pH higher than 7.0. They
will tolerate almost any soil type except for wet,
soggy soil. Plant 5-8 feet apart in full sun. They will
grow and fruit in partial shade (less than 8 hours
of sun) but will not fruit as heavily under these
conditions. Young goji plants have a vine-like wispy
growth habit and will benefit from staking until stems
become woodier and more self-supporting.
Goji plants can be pruned in a number of ways,
either by training as a single trunk up a stake or
as a multi stemmed bush. It helps to prune back or
thin out existing canes by 1/3 of the total bush size
each fall after your plant has been in the ground
three seasons. This pruning will help maintain plant
vigor. Plants will typically begin bearing fruit after
their 2nd or 3rd growing season.
Hardy Figs—This pest-free plant does best in moist,
well-drained soil and full sun. Space plants 10 feet
apart. North of zone 6, figs may be grown in pots.
Bring potted figs indoors during winter months.
North of zone 7, plants may die back to the ground
unless protected by mulch for the winter.
Honeyberries—Plants do best in moderately
drained, moist soil. Mulch to retain moisture. Plant
in full sun where summers are mild; in partial
shade where summers are hot and dry. Set plants
4-5 feet apart, fertilize and mulch annually, and
prune to maintain shape. It is best to plant at least
two varieties as cross-pollination is required to
produce fruit.
Kiwis—Plant in any well-drained soil, mulch to
retain moisture and keep plants shaded during the
hot part of the day until well established. This is
a fruiting vine that requires support, like a trellis
similar to one you’d use for grapes, only stronger.
(See illustration below) Endposts should be 4-6
inches in diameter and 6-8 feet tall, with strong
wires stretched between them. Place a temporary
stake the height of the trellis next to each plant.
Kiwi Trellis System
6'
A.
3'
6-8'
The first season’s growth should be tied to this stake
and allowed to grow to the top of the trellis (see A).
Remove suckers and all but four lateral branches
cut back to 18 inches, directing the plant’s energy
toward a single trunk. After the vine reaches a top
wire, cut it back 3-6 inches to just above a plump
bud. This causes the central vine to split and grow
into a Y shape. Train lateral growth to wires but
don’t allow the two new leaders to twine around the
wire supports (see B).
B.
Once trained to a trellis, prune your kiwi regularly.
In late winter or early spring, trim away 3-year-old
branches (those that have finished a second year of
fruiting) and any damaged or twisted wood. Keep
fruiting laterals pruned to 12 buds. You should
also prune where necessary to keep branches 2
feet above the ground. Hardy kiwi generally begin
bearing 3-10 years after planting. The Issai and
Arctic Beauty varieties bear within 4-7 years if
properly pruned.
Mulberries—Mulberries prefer a damp location in
fertile, loam soil. Add a generous helping of organic
matter to the site before planting and work it in well.
Male and female flowers are produced on separate
trees, so it is best to plant in groups of three to five
to ensure proper pollination. Set plants 15 feet apart
or 3 feet apart for a hedge. Water frequently the
first few years, especially during fruit development.
Mulberries grow 25-40 feet tall and bear 4-5 years
after planting.
Pawpaws—Plant pawpaws in a fertile, moist
location where they will have plenty of room
to grow; the trees can reach 30 feet in height.
Pawpaws do best in full sun but will tolerate partial
shade. Plant two or more for best pollination. Little
maintenance is required. Simply water during dry
spells and fertilize each spring. Harvest when fruit
is soft and coppery brown to almost black.
Visit Gurneys.com, Gardening-How To
Videos to view all of our videos on pawpaws.
Persimmons—These trees can grow to 30 feet or
more, so be sure to give them lots of room. Plant
in full sun, digging a deep hole so the taproot fits
without curling. Curling or crowding the taproot
can kill the tree. Fertilize and mulch each spring.
Water during dry periods. Prune out suckers as they
appear. Persimmons do not ripen until late in the
fall. The crop is best harvested after a frost, when
the fruit is softened and slightly creased.
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