PANTONE 285 Black US_low_coverEN Operation Manual GETTING READY SEWING BASICS 885-V12 UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX Operation Manual English 885-V12 XE2426-1012 Printed in China Computerized Sewing Machine
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine. DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock: 1 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning, when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the machine unattended. WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
Always keep your work area clear: • Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth. • Do not store objects on the foot controller. • Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. • Never drop or insert any object into any opening. • Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8 For repair or adjustment: • If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer. • In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.
FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY IMPORTANT • In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug. • Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted. • If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.
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—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Contents Important Safety Instructions .............................................................................................. 1 Contents .............................................................................................................................. 6 Introduction ........................................................................................................................
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................ 48 Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 48 Changing the sewing direction ....................................................................................................................... 48 Sewing curves .................................................
Introduction Thank you for choosing this product. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read “Important Safety Instructions”, and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference. Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions Machine a Bobbin winder (page 15) Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
Needle and presser foot section a Needle threader lever Use the needle threader to thread the needle. b Buttonhole lever Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks. c Presser foot holder The presser foot is attached to the presser foot holder. d Presser foot holder screw Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser foot holder in place. e Presser foot The presser foot applies pressure to the fabric during sewing. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitch.
Operation panel The operation panel, located on the front of the sewing machine, allows you to select a stitch and specify how the stitch will be sewn. a LCD (liquid crystal display) The number of the selected stitch (1), the presser foot to be used (2), the stitch length (mm) (3), and the stitch width (mm) (4) are displayed here. b Stitch length key (page 40) Use to adjust the length of the stitch. (Press the “–” side for a shorter stitch length, or press the “+” side for a longer stitch length.
Accessories After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your dealer. Included accessories The following items should also be included in the box. Note (For U.S.A. only) ● Foot controller: Model T This foot controller can be used on this machine model NS40. ● The screw for the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. (Part code: XA4813-051) 1. 2. 3. 4. 13. 10.* 11. 12. 19. 20. 21. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
Optional accessories The following are available as optional accessories. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. Part Code No. Part Name U.S.A./ Canada 1 Side cutter SA177 2 Quilting guide SA132 3 Wide table SA552 4 Walking foot SA140 5 Quilting foot SA129 6 Adjustable zipper/piping foot SA161 Others F054 (XC3879-002) F016N (XC2215-002) WT8 (XE2472-001) F033N (XC2214-002) F005N (XC1948-002) F036N (XC1970-002) Part Code No. Part Name U.S.A.
1 GETTING READY 1 Turning the Machine On/Off This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off. Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. WARNING ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine. ● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power supply jack on the machine.
GETTING READY—— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Turning on the machine Prepare the included power cord. Make sure that the sewing machine is turned ”), and then plug the power cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine. a off (the main power switch is set to “ Insert the plug of the power cord into a b household electrical outlet.
Preparing for Upper and Lower Threading 1 Winding the bobbin Wind the thread onto the bobbin. a Hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide b Pretention disk c Bobbin winder shaft d Bobbin CAUTION ● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)) designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine. ● The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine.
GETTING READY—— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin. f With the slightly rounded side of the spool cap positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap onto the spool pin as far as possible to the right so that the spool is moved to the right end of the spool pin. While holding the spool with your right hand, g and then pass the thread under the thread guide.
While using your left hand to hold the thread j that was passed through the bobbin-winding thread guide, use your right hand to wind the end of the thread clockwise around the bobbin five or six times. Pass the end of the thread through the slit in k the bobbin winder seat, and then pull the thread to the right to cut it. a a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter) X The thread is cut to a suitable length. CAUTION ● Be sure to cut the thread as described.
GETTING READY—— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — b Installing the bobbin Turn off the sewing machine (set it to “ ”). Install the bobbin wound with thread. CAUTION ● Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect. Slide the latch on the right side of the bobbin c cover to the right, and then remove the bobbin cover.
Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right e hand, and guide the thread through the slot, and then pull it toward you to cut it with the cutter. Reattach the bobbin cover. f Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover (A), and then press down on the right side (B). 1 B a A b Memo a Slot b Cutter X The cutter cuts the thread. • Make sure that the thread is correctly passed through the flat spring of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted correctly, reinstall the bobbin.
GETTING READY—— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Threading the upper thread In this section, the procedures for installing the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are described. b a a Spool pin b Mark on handwheel CAUTION ● When threading the machine, carefully follow the instructions.
Press (needle position button) once or c twice to raise the needle. Fully insert the spool for the upper thread e onto the spool pin Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom. a Needle position button • If the needle is not at the correct height, the sewing machine cannot be threaded. Check that the mark on the handwheel points up as shown in the illustration below.
GETTING READY—— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — f Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin. While holding the spool with your right hand, g and then pass the thread under the thread guide. Memo ● When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the spool. 1 b c a Thread guide h from the back to the front.
Slide the thread into the thread take-up lever j from the right to the left. While lowering the needle threader lever, m hook the thread onto the guide. a 1 a Thread take-up lever Memo ● If the needle is not raised, the thread takeup lever cannot be threaded. Be sure to press the needle position button to raise the needle before threading the thread take-up lever. a Needle threader b Thread c Guide k guide.
GETTING READY—— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of p the thread through the presser foot, and then d Raise the presser foot lever. pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.
Insert the extra spool pin onto the end of the d bobbin winder shaft. Using the twin needle a Bobbin winder shaft b Extra spool pin c Thread spool With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different threads. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. Be sure to use the twin needle and the extra spool pin. For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch settings” (page 87).
GETTING READY—— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Attach zigzag foot “J”. h • For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 31). Start sewing. l • For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 42). X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to each other.
Replacing the Needle This section provides information on sewing machine needles. 1 Needle precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below. CAUTION ● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.
GETTING READY————— —————— ———————— —————— —————— ——————— — ——— —— ——— —— ——— —— —— ——— —— ——— — ——— ——— — ——— ——— — ——— —— —— ——— —— ——— —— —— ———— — Needle types and their uses The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Checking the needle Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even. Replacing the needle Replace the needle as described below. Use the screwdriver and a correct needle, as described in “Checking the needle”. 1 a twice to raise the needle.
GETTING READY—— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Loosen the needle clamp screw and remove d the needle. Hold the needle with your left hand, and then turn the screwdriver counterclockwise with your right hand. a b a Needle clamp screw b Screwdriver • Do not apply extreme force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise damage to the machine may result.
Replacing the Presser Foot 1 Presser foot precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet. CAUTION ● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break. ● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
GETTING READY—— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Place the presser foot to be installed below the e holder so that the presser foot pin is aligned Raise the presser foot lever to check that the g presser foot is securely attached. with the notch in the holder. Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (J, A, etc.) is positioned to be read.
■ Attaching the presser foot holder Align the presser foot holder with the presser a bar. a Using the optional walking foot With the optional walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when quilting. Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.
GETTING READY—— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser c foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw c Raise the presser foot lever. with the screwdriver. a a a Presser foot lever a Presser foot holder screw X The presser foot is raised.
Useful Functions Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below. ■ When the needle stops in the raised position The needle stops in the raised position when sewing ends. Changing the needle stop position Normally, the sewing machine is set to leave the needle in the fabric when sewing is stopped. Instead, the machine can be set to leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped. a Turn off the sewing machine. Memo ● After sewing is finished, the fabric can be pulled out.
GETTING READY—— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Changing the initial needle position Normally, the straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected when the sewing machine is turned on. The machine can be set so that the straight stitch (center needle position) is automatically selected when it is turned on. a Turn off the sewing machine. b key), turn on the sewing machine.
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment. Stitching cylindrical pieces Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs. a 1 Sewing large pieces of fabric The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of fabric easier. Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left. Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide a table. Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.
GETTING READY—— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Install the wide table. c Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into place. The lower right corner section of the wide table extends over the front section of the sewing machine bed. 2 1 a Lower right corner b Sewing machine bed Note ● The optional wide table is available through your Brother dealer.
2 SEWING BASICS Starting to Sew Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions. 2 CAUTION ● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle, handwheel, and thread take-up lever, otherwise injuries may occur. ● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break. ● Never use bent needles.
SEWING BASICS —— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Selecting a stitch Select each stitch by using the pattern selection dial. a Turn on the sewing machine. Adjusting the stitch length and width ■ Example: To select stitch Turn the pattern selection dial until “05” a appears in the LCD. Press “+” or “–” side of (stitch length b key) to adjust the stitch length.
Press “+” or “–” side of (stitch width c key) to adjust the stitch width. Positioning the fabric – + Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly. a a b c d Stitch width key Stitch width Narrow Wide Turn on the sewing machine. The straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected.
SEWING BASICS —— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — While holding the end of the thread and the d fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching. Starting to sew Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine.
b Press (start/stop button) once. Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on b the side of the sewing machine. a Start/stop button The machine starts sewing. 2 a Foot controller jack c Turn on the sewing machine. • If you continue pressing the (start/stop button) immediately after the sewing starts, the machine will sew at a slow speed. When the end of the stitching is reached, (start/stop button) once. c press X The machine stops sewing with the needle down (in the fabric).
SEWING BASICS —— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly e press down on the foot controller. Pressing down on the foot controller increases the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the foot controller decreases the sewing speed.
After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press c (reverse/reinforcement stitch button). Keep (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching. After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn, (reverse/reinforcement stitch button). g release X The machine stops sewing. Press (start/stop button), or press down on h the foot controller. At this time, if (start/stop button) is held down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
SEWING BASICS —— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Cutting the thread a sewing machine is stopped, press When you wish to finish the stitching and the (needle position button) once to raise the needle. Automatically sewing reverse/ reinforcement stitches The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching.
After reaching the end of the stitching, press e the reverse/reinforcement stitch button once. a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button • This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn. X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are sewn, the sewing machine stops. Memo ● Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT be sewn until (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) is pressed.
SEWING BASICS —— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Useful Sewing Tips Various ways to achieve better sewing results are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing. Trial sewing After a stitch is selected, the machine automatically sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that was selected.
■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that keeps the presser foot level. a Sewing thin fabrics When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
SEWING BASICS —— ——— —— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Pulling up the bobbin thread When making gathers, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below. a Do not cut the thread with the cutter. Pass the bobbin thread through the slot. e bobbin thread under the presser foot toward Pull out about 10 to 15 cm (4-5 inches) of the the rear of the machine. • Leave the bobbin cover removed.
3 UTILITY STITCHES Overcasting Zigzag stitch 3-point zigzag stitch J Overcasting and attaching appliqués Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Twin Needle Application Walking Foot Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Auto Manual Auto Manual 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) Overcasting on medium weight or J stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc. 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) Overcasting on G thin or medium weight fabrics 3.5 (1/8) 2.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J” Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” a Turn on the machine. a Turn on the machine. b With the pattern selection dial, b With the pattern selection dial, select , or select . , or . Attach overcasting foot “G”. c • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser Attach zigzag foot “J”.
Basic Stitching Straight stitch Application Basic stitching, J sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. Left Attaching zippers, basic stitching, and J sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams, J sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching Center Triple stretch stitch Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Twin Needle Stitch Name Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Presser Foot Pattern Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Blind Hem Stitching Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Application Manual Twin Needle Stitch Name Presser Foot Pattern The bottoms of skirts and pants are hemmed. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching. Walking Foot Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Auto Manual Auto Blind hem stitching R on medium weight fabrics 0 (0) –3 – 3 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded e hem against the guide of the presser foot, and Memo then lower the presser foot lever. If the needle is incorrectly positioned, the stitching results will be as shown below. Correct each result as described below. R a b ● If the needle catches too much of the hem fold The needle is positioned too far to the left. Press the “+” side of the stitch width key to adjust the needle position so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Buttonhole Stitching Buttonhole stitch Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Application Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Manual Horizontal buttonholes on thin and A medium weight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0-5.0 (1/8-3/16) 0.5 0.2-1.0 Automatic No No (1/32) (1/64-1/16) Reinforcement Secured buttonA holes for fabrics that have backings 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8-3/16) 0.5 0.2–1.
Buttonholes with a maximum length of 30 mm (1-3/16 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button) can be sewn. Buttonholes are sewn as shown below. a a a 3 a Reinforcement stitching CAUTION ● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if a button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position a and length of the buttonhole. a b c Turn on the machine. d With the pattern selection dial, select a stitch. e • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser Attach buttonhole foot “A”. foot” (page 31). Pass the upper thread down through the hole f in the presser foot, and then pull it under the a Marks on fabric b Finished stitching presser foot, as shown.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as h possible. Use the enclosed seam ripper to cut towards m the pin and open the buttonhole. a a Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever should be positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. a a Seam ripper For keyhole buttonholes ( a ), use the enclosed eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Changing the stitch width Press the “+” or “–” side of the stitch width key to adjust the stitch width. – + d Attach buttonhole foot “A”. • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 31). Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the e gimp thread. Lower the presser foot lever and the f buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
Button sewing g Place the button into button fitting foot “M”. Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached. Measure the distance between the holes in the a button to be attached. a a Button X The button is held in place. b drop feed lever, located at the rear of the Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine).
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Start sewing. i Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so that the speed will be slow). ■ Attaching a shank to a button To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with space between it and the fabric, and then wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button securely. Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”, a and then pull the shank lever toward you.
Zipper Insertion Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Application Attaching zippers, basic stitching, and J sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. Straight stitch Center Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) Auto Manual Twin Needle Presser Foot Stitch Name Pattern A zipper can be sewn in place. Walking Foot 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes *1 (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J) Yes Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Reverse *1Do not use reverse stitching.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Align the seam with the center of the zipper, e and then baste the zipper in place. h Topstitch around the zipper. a c b b a d c a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stitching c Zipper f With the pattern selection dial, select stitch a b c d . g of the pin of zipper foot “I”.
a Turn on the machine. Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of f the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), b stitches up to the zipper opening. Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight and then baste or pin the zipper in place. • With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening. • For details on basic stitching, refer to “Basic Stitching” (page 53). b a Baste the two pieces up to the edge of the c fabric.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the i extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base of the zipper. Attach the presser foot holder to the other side l of the pin of zipper foot “I”. If the presser foot holder was attached to the right side of the pin in step h, change it to the left side of the pin.
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Twin Needle Presser Foot Stitch Name Pattern Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached. Walking Foot Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Stretch stitch Sewing stretch fab1.0 J rics and decorative (1/16) stitching 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) 2.5 1.0–4.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— c With the pattern selection dial, select stitch . Attach zigzag foot “J”. d • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 31). Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while e stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric. While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching Zigzag stitch Application J Overcasting and attaching appliqués Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) Twin Needle Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Presser Foot Stitch Name Pattern Eight stitches are available for sewing appliqués and patchwork quilts. Walking Foot Yes *1 (J) Yes Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Reverse Appliqué stitch J Appliqué stitching 3.5 (1/8) 2.5–7.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Turn the handwheel toward you, and then g begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué, Appliqué stitching Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam a allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and 3/ 16 inch). making sure that the needle drops just outside of the appliqué. a a Seam allowance b back of the appliqué, and then fold over the Place a pattern made of thick paper on the seam allowance using an iron.
Piecing Quilting Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called “piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from the right side of the presser foot. Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the a fabric that you wish to piece together. b Turn on the machine. c Select stitch Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called “quilting”.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Presser foot holder Free-motion quilting With free-motion quilting, lower the feed dogs (using the feed dog position switch) so that the fabric is not fed. The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting. Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that b the guide aligns with the seam that has already been sewn. a Turn off the sewing machine. Remove the presser foot and the presser foot b holder.
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right h then move the fabric to follow the pattern. screw using the enclosed screwdriver in your left hand. Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning and end of stitching. d hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and a CAUTION ● Be sure to securely tighten the screw with the enclosed screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Reinforcement Stitching Triple stretch stitch Bar tack stitch Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Application Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams, J sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching Reinforce openings and areas A where the seam easily comes loose Auto Manual Twin Needle Presser Foot Stitch Name Pattern Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams a
c Bar tack stitching With the pattern selection dial, select stitch Bar tacks are one type of reinforcement stitching used to strengthen points subject to strain, such as pocket corners and openings. As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at pocket corners is described below. . Attach buttonhole foot “A”. d • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 31). Pass the upper thread down through the hole e in the presser foot, and then pull it under the presser foot, as shown.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as g possible. a a Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever should be positioned behind the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot. a b a Buttonhole lever b Bracket Gently hold the end of the upper thread in h your left hand, and then start sewing. X Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.
Decorative stitching Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Application Auto Manual Twin Needle Presser Foot Stitch Name Pattern Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine. Walking Foot Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Auto Manual Fagoting, smockJ ing and decorative stitching 5.0 (3/16) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 2.5 1.0-4.0 Yes No Reinforcement (3/32) (1/16-3/16) (J) Fagoting, smockJ ing and decorative stitching 5.0 (3/16) 2.5-7.0 (3/32-1/4) 2.5 1.0-4.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Fagoting Scallop stitching Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used. a along their seams. Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by b about 4.0 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.
Smocking g Stitch between the straight stitches. h Pull out the threads for the straight stitches. The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric. a Turn on the machine. Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the b stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen the thread tension.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sew while making sure that the needle drops e slightly off the edge of the fabric. 1 c Select stitch d Attach zigzag foot “J”. , or . Turn the fabric over so that the right side e faces up, and then sew over the seam with the center of the presser foot aligned with the seam. a Needle drop point a Right side of fabric Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks f down to one side.
d Attach monogramming foot “N”. c CAUTION ● Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may bend or break. ● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. e Select stitch . • For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 40).
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— c Select stitch . • For details, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 40). d Sew along the center of the unfrayed section.
Using the side cutter (optional) Presser Foot Stitch Name Pattern By using the optional side cutter, overcasting stitching can be sewn while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Basic stitching, S sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. 0.0 (0) 0.0–2.5 (0–3/32) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) Reverse Overcasting on S thin or medium weight fabrics 3.5 (1/8) 2.5–5.0 (3/32–3/16) 2.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Position the side cutter so that the side cutter j foot holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot lever. Position the fabric so that the right side of the cut is on top of the guide plate and the left side of the cut is underneath the presser foot. f pin is aligned with the notch in the presser Position the fabric. b a a Notch in presser foot holder b Pin X The side cutter is attached.
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start k sewing. X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching is sewn. If stitch is sewn, the seam allowance will be 3 about 5 mm (3/16 inch). a a 5 mm (3/16 inch) Note ● The side cutter can cut as much as one layer of 13-oz. denim. ● After using the side cutter, clean it by removing any lint or dust. ● If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric, use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to the cutting edge of the cutter.
UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— 86
4 APPENDIX Stitch settings Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table. CAUTION ● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Application Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Basic stitching, J sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.2–5.
Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Application Auto Overcasting on G thin or medium weight fabrics G Overcasting stitch Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Overcasting on thick fabrics 3.5 (1/8) Manual Auto Manual Twin Needle Presser Foot Stitch Name Pattern APPENDIX —— —— ——— ————— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Walking Foot Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching 2.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.
Joining stitch Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Application Auto Manual Twin Needle Presser Foot Pattern Stitch Name Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Walking Foot Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Auto Manual Patchwork stitchJ ing and decorative stitching 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.2 0.2–4.0 Yes No Reinforcement (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sewJ ing overcasting on both pieces of fabrics, such as with tricot 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.5 1.0–4.
Buttonhole stitch Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Application Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Manual Horizontal buttonholes on thin and A medium weight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0-5.0 (1/8-3/16) 0.5 0.2-1.0 Automatic No No (1/32) (1/64-1/16) Reinforcement Secured buttonA holes for fabrics that have backings 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8-3/16) 0.5 0.2–1.0 Automatic No No (1/32) (1/64-1/16) Reinforcement Buttonholes for A stretch or knit fabrics 6.0 3.0–6.0 1.0 0.5–2.
Maintenance Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below. d remove the presser foot holder, and then Loosen the presser foot holder screw and Cleaning the machine surface loosen the needle clamp screw and remove the needle. If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry cloth.
APPENDIX ———— ——— ——— ——— ——— ———— —————— ——————— —————— ————— —— ——— — ——— ——— ——— — ——— ——— — ——— ——— — ——— —— —— ——— —— ——— —— —— ——— — —— —— ——— ——— — Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on h the bobbin case aligns with the zmark on Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into i the needle plate, and then slide the cover back machine as shown below. into position. Removing the needle plate When the thread is tangled and cannot be removed by cleaning the race, remove the needle plate.
Troubleshooting If the machine stops operating correctly, check for the following possible causes before requesting service. If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center. Symptom The sewing machine does not operate. Probable Cause Remedy The plug of the power cord is not inserted into an electrical outlet. Insert the plug of the power cord into page 14 a household electrical outlet. The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine.
APPENDIX —— —— ——— ————— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference The upper thread was incorrectly threaded (for example, the spool is incorrectly installed or the thread has Correct the upper threading. come out of the needle bar thread guide). page 20 There are knots or tangles in the thread. – Remove any knots or tangles.
Symptom The thread tension is incorrect. The fabric is puckered. Stitches are skipped. Probable Cause Remedy Reference The upper thread is incorrectly installed. Correct the upper threading. page 20 The bobbin thread is incorrectly installed. Correct the bobbin threading. page 18 The bobbin thread is incorrectly wound. Correctly wind the bobbin. page 15 Select a thread and needle that are The combination of fabric, thread and appropriate for the type of fabric needle is incorrect.
APPENDIX —— —— ——— ————— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Symptom The thread does not pass through the eye of the needle. The stitch is not sewn correctly. The fabric does not feed. The sewing lamp does not come on. 96 Probable Cause Remedy Reference The needle was not raised. Press (needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle. page 21 The needle is incorrectly installed.
Error messages If the sewing machine is incorrectly operated or if the sewing machine malfunctions, an error message appears in the LCD. The message can be cleared by pressing any key in the operation panel, turning any dial, or performing the operation correctly. Error Message (in LCD) Probable Cause Remedy The start/stop button or the reverse/reinforcement stitch button was pressed (The foot controller was depressed if it is connected.) while the presser foot is raised.
APPENDIX —— —— ——— ————— —— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— ——— —————————— ———————————— ——— ——— — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — — —— — —— — —— — ——— ——— ——— —— ——— —— — — Operation beep Each time a key is pressed or an incorrect operation is performed, a beep is sounded. ■ For a correct operation One beep is sounded. ■ If an incorrect operation is performed Two or four beeps are sounded.
Index Numerics M 1/4 inch quilting foot......................................................12 1/4 inch quilting foot with guide ....................................12 main power switch......................................................... 14 maintenance .................................................................. 91 monogramming foot....................................................... 11 A accessory bag.................................................................
smocking........................................................................79 spool cap .......................................................................11 spool net ........................................................................11 spool pin ........................................................................20 stitch guide foot..............................................................12 stitch length....................................................................
PANTONE 285 Black US_low_coverEN Operation Manual GETTING READY SEWING BASICS 885-V12 UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX Operation Manual English 885-V12 XE2426-1012 Printed in China Computerized Sewing Machine