Read before use. GETTING READY SEWING BASICS Read when additional information is required.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine. DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock: 1 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning, when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the machine unattended. WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area. • Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break. • Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break. 6 This machine is not a toy: • Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children. • Do not use outdoors.
Contents IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ............................................................................... 1 Contents .............................................................................................................................. 3 Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 6 Sewing Machine Features .............................................................................................
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting the Thread Tension ............................................................................................ 46 Changing the tension of the upper thread ........................................................................................................ 46 Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length .............................................................................. 47 Adjusting the stitch width ......................................
APPENDIX .......................................................................................................93 Stitch Settings .................................................................................................................... 94 Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 94 Care and Maintenance .........................................................................
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Introduction Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the “IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS” (page 1), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.
Accessories After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your dealer. Included accessories The following items should also be included in the box. Note (For U.S.A. only) ● Foot controller: Model N5V This foot controller can be used on this machine model NX-250. ● The screw for the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Attaching the stitch pattern plate The stitch pattern plate shows the stitches and the stitch numbers. A letter (A, G, J, N or R) indicating the presser foot that should be used appears below the stitch number. Attach the stitch pattern plate to the handle as shown in the illustration below. Optional accessories The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. No.
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts. Front view 2 1 3 4 C 5 B 6 A 0 7 9 8 1 Thread guide plate Pass the thread under the thread guide plate. 2 Thread guide cover Pass the thread behind the thread guide cover when threading the upper thread. 3 Spool pin Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Needle and presser foot section Right-side/rear view 1 Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is used with the one-step buttonhole foot to create buttonholes. 1 Presser foot dial Use the presser foot dial to adjust the amount of pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric. 2 Thread guide disk Pass the thread through the thread guide disk when using the needle threader to thread the needle.
Operation buttons The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations. 1 “Start/Stop” button Press the “Start/Stop” button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 42). The button lights up in green, red or orange, depending on how the sewing machine is being operated.
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Operation panel The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists of various buttons and sliders for specifying how the stitch will be sewn. 0 9 A 1 3 8 4 B 2 7 5 6 1 Stitch width adjustment slider / 2 Stitch width adjustment button These are used to adjust the width of the stitch or the needle position.
1 GETTING READY The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter. Turning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................14 Power supply precautions ..................................................................................14 Turning on the machine .....................................................................................15 Turning off the machine .................................................
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Turning the Machine On/Off This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off. Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. WARNING ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
Turning on the machine 1 off (the main power switch is set to “O”), and Make sure that the sewing machine is turned then plug the power cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine. Insert the plug of the power cord into a 2 household electrical outlet. Turning off the machine When you are finished using the sewing machine, turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing machine to another location, be sure to turn it off. 1 Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Winding/Installing the Bobbin This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread. Bobbin precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin. CAUTION ● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)) designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
1 Turn on the sewing machine. Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto 6 the spool pin. Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom. 2 Open the top cover. • If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unwinds correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin. Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Pass the thread under the thread guide plate 9 from the right. Memo ● When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the spool. b c a 1 Spool cap (small) 2 Spool (cross-wound thread) 3 Space ● When using thread that winds off quickly, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the spool net over the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin.
a wind the thread that was pulled out clockwise While holding the thread with your left hand, d When the foot controller is plugged in, press Press around the bobbin five or six times with your right hand. (“Start/Stop” button) once. down on the foot controller. 1 1 1 “Start/Stop” button • When the bobbin winding becomes slow, press (“Start/Stop” button) once to stop the machine. When the foot controller is plugged in, remove your foot from the foot controller.
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————— 4 Installing the bobbin Install the bobbin wound with thread. Remove the bobbin cover. 5 hold the end of the thread with your left. Hold the bobbin with your right hand and CAUTION ● Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound with thread, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect. • Be careful not to drop the bobbin.
Memo ● The order that the bobbin thread should be passed through the bobbin case is indicated by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated. The marks around the bobbin case differ depending on the model. Note ● Make sure that the thread is correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted correctly, reinsert the thread.
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Upper Threading In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are described. CAUTION ● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled and the needle may bend and break. Threading the upper thread Set the spool of thread on the spool pin, and then thread the machine. 1 Turn on the sewing machine.
3 Press (“Needle Position” button) once or twice to raise the needle. Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin. 6 Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom. 1 1 1 “Needle Position” button • The needle is correctly raised when the mark on the handwheel is at the top, as shown below. Check the handwheel and, if this mark is not at this position, press (“Needle Position” button) until it is.
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————— While holding the thread lightly with your 8 right hand, pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front. 1 Note ● If the presser foot has been lowered and the shutter is closed, the machine cannot be threaded. Be sure to raise the presser foot and open the shutter before threading the machine.
Threading the needle Note This section describes how to thread the needle. Note ● The needle threader can be used with sewing machine needles 75/11 through 100/16. ● The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle or the twin needle. ● If the needle threader cannot be used, refer to “Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)” (page 26).
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Note ● If the needle was not completely threaded, but a loop in the thread was formed in the eye of the needle, carefully pull the loop through the eye of the needle to pull out the end of the thread.
Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin Using the twin needle With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different threads. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra spool pin and the spool cap. For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 94). 4 winder shaft. Insert the extra spool pin so that it is perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft.
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Without passing the thread through the 8 needle bar thread guide, manually thread the b Press (Needle mode selection key). right needle. Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front. X • The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged. Attach zigzag foot “J”.
Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of the bobbin Pulling up the bobbin thread When making gathers or before free-motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below. 5 thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine. 1 Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case. 1 • Refer to steps 1 through 5 of “Installing the bobbin” (page 20). 2 Do not cut the thread with the cutter. Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Replacing the Needle This section provides information on sewing machine needles. Needle precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below. CAUTION ● Only use home sewing machine needles.
Note ● Never use a thread of weight 20 or lower. It may cause malfunctions. Memo ● The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread, and the larger the needle number, the thicker the needle. ● Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur. ● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn. CAUTION ● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the table on page 30.
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Hold the needle with your left hand, and then Replacing the needle Replace the needle as described below. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle”. Press 5 use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw toward you (counterclockwise) to remove the needle. 1 (“Needle Position” button) once 1 or twice to raise the needle.
Replacing the Presser Foot The presser foot presses down on the fabric. 1 Presser foot precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet. CAUTION ● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break. ● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Place a different presser foot below the holder 5 so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the Note notch in the holder. Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is positioned to be read. ● For details on the presser foot that should be used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 94).
Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder. ■ Removing the presser foot holder Using the optional walking foot With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser foot.
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————— 3 CAUTION Raise the presser foot lever. ● Be sure to securely tighten the screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break. ● Before starting to sew, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. a 1 Presser foot lever X The presser foot is raised.
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment. Stitching cylindrical pieces Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs. 1 1 Sewing large pieces of fabric The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of fabric easier. Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left. Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide 1 table. Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Turn the screw at the bottom of each leg to 4 adjust their height so the wide table will be level with the sewing machine bed. CAUTION ● Do not move the sewing machine while the wide table is attached, otherwise damage or injuries may occur. When you are finished using the wide table, 5 remove it. While slightly lifting up the wide table, pull it off to the left. 6 original position.
2 SEWING BASICS The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter. Sewing.....................................................................................................................40 General sewing procedure .................................................................................40 Positioning the fabric .........................................................................................41 Starting to sew ...........................................................
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions. CAUTION ● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur. ● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break.
Positioning the fabric Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly. 1 Turn on the sewing machine. 5 2 Lower the presser foot lever. The straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected. 2 or twice to raise the needle. Press (“Needle Position” button) once 1 1 Presser foot lever X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn. 1 1 “Needle Position” button 3 Place the fabric under the presser foot.
SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————— 3 Starting to sew Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the sewing speed controller or the foot controller. When the end of the stitching is reached, press (“Start/Stop” button) once. X The machine stops sewing with the needle down (in the fabric). When you are finished sewing, raise the 4 needle, and then cut the threads.
3 Turn on the sewing machine. When you are finished sewing, raise the 7 needle, and then cut the threads. • For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 45). Memo Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or 4 right to select the desired sewing speed. Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed. 1 ● If (Needle stop position key) is lit, the sewing machine will stop with the needle raised.
SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————— After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press Securing the stitching 3 (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button). Keep (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching. When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at the end of an opening or where seams do not overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching to secure the end of the thread.
After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn, (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button). 7 release X The machine stops sewing. Press (“Start/Stop” button), or press down 8 on the foot controller. Cutting the thread When you have finished sewing, cut the threads. When you wish to finish the stitching and the 1 sewing machine is stopped, press (“Needle Position” button) once to raise the needle. At this time, if (“Start/Stop” button) is held down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting the Thread Tension The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are equal. Changing the tension of the upper thread Turn the thread tension dial to the left to loosen the upper thread. You may need to change the thread tension, depending on the fabric and thread being used.
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of values within which the width and length can be set, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 94). Adjusting the stitch width The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to make the stitch wider or narrower.
SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting the stitch length The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch longer or shorter. Note ● When (Stitch length display key) is pressed, the currently specified stitch length appears in the stitch indicator. This allows the specified setting to be checked while it is being changed. 1 1 Stitch length display key When the stitch length is displayed, stitch length display key lights up.
Useful Functions Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below. Changing the needle stop position The sewing machine can be set to leave the needle in the fabric (lowered needle stop position) or leave the needle raised (raised needle stop position) when sewing is stopped. Press (Needle stop position key) in the operation panel to switch between the two settings.
SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————— Position the fabric under the presser foot, and (“Start/Stop” button) once. 3 then press Changing the initial needle stop position The needle position when the machine is turned on can be switched between a position on the left or at the center. While holding pressed the for the first digit 1 (tens) from the stitch selection keys, turn on 1 the sewing machine.
Useful Sewing Tips Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project. Trial sewing After you have set up the machine with the thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that is selected.
SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————— Release the presser foot locking pin (black 4 button). Sewing thick fabrics ■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position. X The presser foot remains level, allowing the fabric to be fed. X After the seam is sewn, the presser foot will return to its original angle.
Sewing thin fabrics When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing hook-and-loop fastener CAUTION ● Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop fastener which is for sewing. If the glue is attached to the needle or the bobbin hook race, it may cause malfunction. ● If the hook-and-loop fastener is sewn with the thin needle (65/9-75/11), the needle may bend or break. Note ● Before start sewing, baste together the fabric and the hook-and-loop fastener.
3 UTILITY STITCHES The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter. Selecting Stitching...................................................................................................56 Selecting stitching ..............................................................................................56 Overcasting Stitches................................................................................................58 Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”.....
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting Stitching You can select any of the various types of stitching available. Selecting stitching Using the operation panel keys, select the desired stitch. Immediately after turning on the machine, the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected. The machine can also be set to select the straight stitch (center needle position). For details, refer to “Changing the initial needle stop position” (page 50).
■ [Example] Selecting stitch 04 Press . (Stitch selection key) to 1 select stitch 04. Select “0” with or on the left, and then select “4” with or on the right. To adjust the stitch width, slide the stitch 2 width adjustment slider up or down. Press the stitch width adjustment button, and then slide the stitch width adjustment slider to adjust the stitch width. 1 2 3 4 To adjust the stitch length, slide the stitch 3 length adjustment slider up or down.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Overcasting Stitches Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent fabric from fraying. Seven stitches are available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used. Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J” Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”. Stitch Name Pattern Application Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.5–4.0 (1/32–3/16) 04 Preventing fraying (center baseline/reverse stitching) 3-point zigzag stitch 05 Preventing fraying in thick fabrics 5.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. The following four stitches can be used to sew overcasting. When the side cutter is attached, be sure to use the settings in the ranges listed below.
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the 6 side cutter is securely attached. Position the fabric in the side cutter. 0 The cut in the fabric should be positioned over the guide plate of the side cutter. Pass the upper thread under the side cutter, 7 and then pull it out toward the rear of the sewing machine. a 1 Guide plate • If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut. Select a stitch. 8 • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 56).
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Basic Stitching Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching. Stitch Name Pattern Straight stitch (left needle position) Straight stitch (center needle position) Triple stretch stitch 00 01 02 Application Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks (left baseline/ reverse stitching) 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.
Blind Hem Stitching Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching. Stitch Name Pattern 10 Blind hem stitch 11 Application Blind hem stitching on medium weight fabrics Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 00 (0) -3 – 3- 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) Presser Foot R 3 Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Adjust the stitch width until the needle 6 slightly catches the fold of the hem. ■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold If the needle does not catch enough of the hem fold, move the stitch width adjustment lever up. This makes the stitch wider to move the needle closer onto the fold.
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Seven stitches are available for sewing one-step buttonholes and one stitch for sewing on buttons. Stitch Name Pattern Buttonhole stitch Buttonsewing stitch Application Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 40 Horizontal buttonholes on thin and medium weight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2–1.
——————————————————————————————————————————— UTILITY STITCHES Buttonhole sewing The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below. 1 1 1 1 Reinforcement stitching The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below. Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position 1 and length of the buttonhole.
■ If the button does not fit in the button guide plate Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).) Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. • When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct size. 1 2 3 a 3 1 Do not reduce the gap.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Raise the buttonhole lever to its original 9 position. Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at 0 the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent ■ Changing the density of the stitching Press the stitch length adjustment button, and then slide the stitch length adjustment slider to adjust the stitch length. 1 the stitching from being cut. 1 1 Pin 2 Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin a and open the buttonhole.
■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread. Hook the gimp thread onto the part of 1 buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it. Button sewing Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached. Measure the distance between the holes in the 1 button to be attached.
UTILITY STITCHES 6 ——————————————————————————————————————————— Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”. Start sewing. 8 Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so that the speed will be slow). a 1 Button X The button is held in place. • When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way.
■ Attaching a shank to a button To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with space between it and the fabric, and then wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button securely. Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”, 1 and then pull the shank lever toward you. 1 1 Shank lever 3 After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread 2 with plenty of excess, wind it around the thread between the button and the fabric, and then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning of the stitching.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Zipper Insertion A zipper can be sewn in place. Stitch Name Pattern Straight stitch (center needle position) 01 Application Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and pintucks Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) Presser Foot I There are many methods for inserting zippers.
6 Select stitch 01 . Inserting a side zipper • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 56). CAUTION Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper application for side openings and back openings. ● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Press the seam allowance so that the right side 4 (the side that will not be stitched) has an extra 3 mm (1/8 inch). CAUTION ● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to 1 2 1 Wrong side of fabric 2 3 mm (1/8 inch) select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot.
Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then 0 baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric. When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the c end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever, and then open the zipper and continue sewing. d Remove the basting stitching. 1 1 Basting stitching a of zipper foot “I”.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached. Stitch Name Pattern Stretch stitch 03 3-point zigzag stitch 05 Application Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual Stretch fabrics 1.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) Attaching elastic 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.
3 Select stitch 05 . • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 56). 4 stretching the tape so that it is the same length Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while as the fabric. While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand. 3 CAUTION ● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below. Stitch Name Pattern Application Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 04 Attaching appliqués (center baseline/reverse stitching) 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) 17 Appliqué quilting, free-motion quilting, satin stitching 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.
Select a stitch. 5 • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” Appliqué stitching (page 56). Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam 1 allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and 3/16 inch). 1 Turn the handwheel toward you 6 (counterclockwise), and then begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué, making sure that the needle drops just outside of the appliqué.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and 1 place it over the lower piece. 4 with the edge of the fabric. ■ For a seam allowance on the right side Align the right side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch 14 . 1 Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the 2 pattern spans over both pieces. 1 6.
Quilting Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily be sewn using the optional walking foot and the optional quilting guide. ■ Using the optional quilting guide Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced. Note ● Thread the needle manually when using the walking foot, or only attach the walking foot after threading the needle using the needle threader.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine). 4 of the machine on the base, to Free-motion quilting With free-motion quilting, lower the feed dogs (using the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting. a 1 Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of the machine) X The feed dogs are lowered.
Reinforcement Stitching Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners. Stitch Name Pattern Application Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Presser Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) J 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) 0.4 (1/64) 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) A Triple stretch stitch 02 Reinforcing the seams of sleeves and inseams Bar tack stitch 47 Reinforcing the ends of openings, 2.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Attach buttonhole foot “A”. 2 • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. foot” (page 33). 3 Select stitch 47 1 . • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 56). Position the fabric so that the opening of the 4 pocket faces toward you, and then lower the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening.
Eyelet Stitching Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm (1/4, 15/64 and 3/16 inch). Stitch Name Pattern Eyelet stitch 1 49 Application Sewing eyelets, for example, on belts Attach monogramming foot “N”. Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 7.0 (1/4) 7.0, 6.0 or 5.0 (1/4, 15/64 or 3/16) – – 5 Presser Foot N Start sewing.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Decorative Stitching The utility stitches contain the following decorative stitches. Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Name Pattern Application Auto Manual Auto Manual 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/25–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.2 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 24 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.
Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Name Pattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Ladder stitch 27 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 3.0 (1/8) 2.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) Rick-rack stitch 28 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) Decorative stitch 29 5.5 (7/32) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.6 (1/16) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) Serpentine stitch 30 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Scallop stitching The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs. 1 Attach monogramming foot “N”. Smocking The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric.
5 Select stitch 25 or 26 . • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 56). 6 Stitch between the straight stitches. Joining Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy quilt. 1 Attach zigzag foot “J”. J • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33). 7 Pull out the threads for the straight stitches. 2 of fabric, and then open up the seam Sew together the right sides of the two pieces allowances.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— 4 Heirloom stitching Start sewing. When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics. Note ● If the thread becomes tangled, use stabilizer material. 1 Install the wing needle. • Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.
3 Select stitch 31 2 . Attach monogramming foot “N”. • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 56). With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew 4 along the right edge of the frayed section. • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33). 3 N Select stitch 34 . • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 56). 5 Turn the fabric around to sew the opposite side. 4 Sew along the center of the unfrayed section.
UTILITY STITCHES 92 ———————————————————————————————————————————
4 APPENDIX The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described in this chapter. Stitch Settings..........................................................................................................94 Utility stitches ....................................................................................................94 Care and Maintenance ..........................................................................................100 Restrictions on oiling................................
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Stitch Settings Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table. Triple stretch stitch 02 J Basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 Yes Reverse (1/64–3/16) (J) No Yes J/I Attaching zippers, basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.
Application Auto Manual Auto Manual Twin Needle Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Walking Foot Side cutter Pattern J Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from the right edge of the presser foot) 5.5 (7/32) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.0 (1/16) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No No J Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from the left edge of the presser foot) 1.5 (1/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.0 (1/16) 0.2–5.
—————————————————————————————————————————————— Serpentine stitch Side cutter Decorative stitch 28 Walking Foot Rick-rack stitch 27 J Decorative stitching 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 3.0 (1/8) 2.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement No No J Decorative stitching 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 Yes Reinforcement (1/16–3/16) (J) No No J Decorative stitching 5.5 (7/32) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.6 (1/16) 1.0–4.
Application Twin Needle Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Walking Foot Side cutter Pattern A Horizontal buttonholes on thin and medium weight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) No Automatic reinforcement No No A Secured buttonholes for fabrics that have backings 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) No Automatic reinforcement No No A Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics 6.0 3.0–6.0 (15/54) (1/8–15/64) 1.0 (1/16) 0.5–2.
Walking Foot Side cutter N For decoration, etc. 2.5 (3/32) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No No N For decoration, etc. 3.0 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No No N For decoration, etc. 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No No N For decoration, etc. 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.6 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No No N For decoration, etc. 7.
Walking Foot Side cutter Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Stitch Length [mm (inch)] N For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 0.4 (1/64) 0.1–1.0 Yes Reinforcement (1/64–1/16) (J) No No N For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 0.4 (1/64) 0.1–1.0 Yes Reinforcement (1/64–1/16) (J) No No N For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 0.4 (1/64) 0.1–1.0 Yes Reinforcement (1/64–1/16) (J) No No N For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 0.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Care and Maintenance Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below. Restrictions on oiling 3 Remove the flat bed attachment. Remove the needle plate cover. In order to prevent damaging this machine, it must not be oiled by the user. This machine was manufactured with the necessary amount of oil applied to ensure correct operation, making periodic oiling unnecessary.
Remove the bobbin case. 5 Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out. Install the needle plate cover. 8 The needle plate cover is installed differently depending on the model. ■ If there is a screw in the needle plate cover Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into 1 the needle plate, and then slide the cover back on. 1 1 Bobbin case Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to 6 remove any lint and dust from the race and its surrounding area.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Troubleshooting If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service. You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at “ http://solutions.brother.com ” . If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
While holding the bobbin in place with your 4 finger, pass the thread through the slit in the needle plate. • Hold down the bobbin with your right hand, and then pull the end of the thread around the tab with your left hand. 2 Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric ■ Symptom • The thread becomes tangled on the lower side of the fabric. 1 1 Tab 2 Hold down the bobbin with your right hand. • After starting sewing, a rattling noise is made and sewing cannot continue.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Raise the presser foot using the presser foot 4 lever. Pass the thread under the thread guide plate, 7 and then pull it up. 1 1 Presser foot lever • If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing machine cannot be threaded correctly. Press (“Needle Position” button) once 5 or twice to raise the needle.
Incorrect thread tension ■ Symptoms • Symptom 1: The lower thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric. • Symptom 2: The upper thread appears as a straight line on the upper side of the fabric. • Symptom 3: The upper thread is visible from the lower side of the fabric. • Symptom 4: The lower thread appears as a straight line on the lower side of the fabric. • Symptom 5: The stitching on the lower side of the fabric is loose or has slack.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Cut out the tangled threads, and then remove Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed If the fabric is caught in the sewing machine and cannot be removed, the thread may have become tangled under the needle plate. Follow the procedure described below to remove the fabric from the machine.
Use the enclosed disc-shaped screwdriver to 0 loosen the two screws on the needle plate. Turn the handwheel to check that the feed dogs move smoothly and do not contact the edges of the slots in the needle plate. Note ● Be careful not to drop the removed screws in the machine. Slightly lift up the needle plate, cut any a tangled threads, and then remove the needle plate. Remove the fabric and threads from the needle plate.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION 2 ● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched, otherwise the upper thread may become tangled, the needle may break or sewing performance may suffer. For a new bobbin case (part code: XC3153-321), contact your nearest authorized service center. ● Make sure that you fit the bobbin case properly, otherwise the needle may break. Select stitch 01 . Note ● Do not yet install the presser foot and thread.
Correctly thread the machine. 7 • For details on threading the machine, refer to “Upper Threading” (page 22). Note ● The thread may have become tangled as a result of incorrect upper threading. Make sure that the machine is correctly threaded. 8 Perform trial sewing with normal fabric. CAUTION ● Do not remove the bobbin winder seat even if the thread become tangled under the bobbin winder seat. It may result in injuries.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left, and 3 then remove the bobbin from the shaft. Hold the thread end with your left hand, and 4 wind off the thread clockwise near the bobbin with your right hand as shown below. 5 Wind the bobbin again. Note ● Make sure that the thread passes under the pretension disk of the bobbin-winding thread guide correctly (page 18).
List of symptoms Symptom The sewing machine does not operate. Probable Cause Remedy Reference The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine. page 15 The “Start/Stop” button was not pressed. Press the “Start/Stop” button. page 42 The presser foot lever is raised. Lower the presser foot lever. – The “Start/Stop” button was pressed, even though the foot controller is connected. Do not use the “Start/Stop” button when the foot controller is connected.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom The upper thread breaks. The lower thread is tangled or breaks. The thread tension is incorrect. The fabric is wrinkled. 112 Probable Cause Remedy Reference The thread is tangled, for example, in the bobbin case. Remove the tangle thread. If the thread is tangled in the bobbin case, clean the race. page 100 The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle.
Symptom The fabric is wrinkled. Stitches are skipped. A high-pitched noise is made while sewing. The needle threader cannot be used. The stitch is not sewn correctly. The fabric does not feed. Probable Cause Remedy Reference The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. page 46 The upper thread was not threaded correctly. Correct the upper threading. page 22 The combination of fabric, thread and needle is not correct.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference The sewing lamp does not come on. The sewing lamp is damaged. Contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center. While winding the bobbin, the bobbin thread was wound below the bobbin winder seat. You have not wound the bobbin thread properly. After removing the thread wound below the bobbin winder seat, wind the bobbin correctly.
Error messages If (“Start/Stop” button) is pressed before the sewing machine is correctly set up or if an operation is performed incorrectly, an error message appears in the stitch indicator. Follow the instructions that appear. The message may disappear if the operation is performed correctly. The message will disappear if or (Stitch selection keys) is pressed while the message is displayed.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Operation beep Each time a key is pressed or an incorrect operation is performed, a beep is sounded. ■ For a correct operation One beep is sounded. ■ If an incorrect operation is performed Two or four beeps are sounded. ■ If the machine locks up, for example, because the thread is tangled The sewing machine continues to beep for four seconds. The machine automatically stops.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Index Numerics 1/4 inch quilting foot .......................................................8 1/4 inch quilting foot with guide .....................................8 3-point zigzag stitch ......................................................59 A accessory bag ..................................................................7 adjustable zipper/piping foot ...........................................8 air vent ..........................................
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— O open toe foot ...................................................................8 openings .......................................................................83 operation beep ............................................................116 operation buttons ......................................................9, 11 operation manual ............................................................7 operation panel ..................................
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