Enclosed Accessories After opening the box, check that the following accessories are enclosed. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your retailer. Accessories The following items should also be enclosed in the box. Note (For U.S.A. only) ● Foot controller: Model N5V This foot controller can be used on this machine model NX-200/PC-210. ● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer.
F0_brotherE.book Page B Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts. CONTENTS Front view 2 1 3 C 5 6 B A 8 0 9 APPENDIX 8 Sewing speed controller Use the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed.
F0_brotherE.book Page C Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM ———————————————————————————————————————— Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions Right-side/rear view Needle and presser foot section CONTENTS 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 8 5 8 7 6 5 7 6 UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX 1 Presser foot dial Use the presser foot dial to adjust the amount of pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric. 2 Handle Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine.
F0_brotherE.book Page D Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Operation buttons 2 3 1 5 APPENDIX 2 Reverse/reinforcement stitch button Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other. For details, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 41).
F0_brotherE.book Page E Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Operation panel 1 2 GETTING READY 3 8 4 5 7 CONTENTS The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists of various buttons and sliders for specifying how the stitch will be sewn. 6 SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX 1 Stitch width adjustment slider / 2 Stitch width adjustment button These are used to adjust the width of the stitch or the needle position.
F0_brotherE.book Page 1 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM ———————————————————————————————————————————————————Enclosed Accessories Optional Accessories CONTENTS The following are available as optional accessories. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. GETTING READY 1. SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES 1. Side cutter Part code: SA177, XC3879-002 2. Quilting guide Part code: SA132, XC2215-002 3. Wide table Part code: SA537, XC4541-051 4. Walking foot Part code: SA140, XC2214-002 5.
F0_brotherE.book Page 2 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Introduction 1 GETTING READY Sewing Machine Features CONTENTS Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the “Important Safety Instructions” (page 6), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.
F0_brotherE.book Page 3 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Contents Accessories .............................................................................................................................................Cover A Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions .......................................................... Cover B Optional Accessories ...........................................................................................................1 Introduction .............................
F0_brotherE.book Page 4 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ..............................................................................45 Adjusting the stitch width ................................................................................................................................ 45 Adjusting the stitch length ...................................................................................
F0_brotherE.book Page 5 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM APPENDIX .......................................................................................................91 Stitch Settings ....................................................................................................................92 Cleaning the machine surface ......................................................................................................................... 96 Cleaning the shuttle .............................
F0_brotherE.book Page 6 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Important Safety Instructions Read all instructions before using. - To reduce the risk of electric shock: DANGER 1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons: APPENDIX INDEX 6 UTILITY STITCHES SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS This machine is intended for household use. SEWING BASICS 1.
F0_brotherE.book Page 7 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following. If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug.
F0_brotherE.book Page 8 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com UTILITY STITCHES For repair or adjustment In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself.
F0_brotherE.book Page 9 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM GETTING READY CONTENTS 1 The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter. Winding/Installing the Bobbin ................................................................................12 Upper Threading .....................................................................................................18 Replacing the Needle ...................................................................................
F0_brotherE.book Page 10 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Turning the Machine On/Off Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. CONTENTS This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off. WARNING result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
F0_brotherE.book Page 11 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Turning on the machine then plug the power supply cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine. Insert the plug of the power supply cord into a 2 household electrical outlet. When you are finished using the sewing machine, turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing machine to another location, be sure to turn it off. 1 Make sure that the machine is not sewing. 2 the right side of the machine (set it to “{”).
F0_brotherE.book Page 12 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Winding/Installing the Bobbin Bobbin precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin. CONTENTS This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread. CAUTION machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
F0_brotherE.book Page 13 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM 1 Turn on the sewing machine. Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto 6 the spool pin. 2 Lift open the upper cover. GETTING READY • If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unrolls correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin. Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft 3 so that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin. Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
F0_brotherE.book Page 14 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the 0 hook on the thread guide for bobbin winding, CAUTION 1 1 pass the thread behind the thread guide cover to the front.
F0_brotherE.book Page 15 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Use scissors to cut the end of the thread f wound around the bobbin. CAUTION the previous page. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out. CONTENTS ● Be sure to cut the thread as described on Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left.
F0_brotherE.book Page 16 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— 2 Installing the bobbin Hold the bobbin with your right hand and 3 hold the end of the thread with your left. CAUTION ● Use a bobbin thread that has been correctly wound, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect. 4 thread unrolls to the left.
F0_brotherE.book Page 17 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM CAUTION CONTENTS ● Be sure to hold down the bobbin with your finger and unroll the bobbin thread correctly, otherwise the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect. Reattach the bobbin cover. 7 Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the GETTING READY bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side. 2 1 SEWING BASICS X The lower threading is finished. Next, thread the upper thread.
F0_brotherE.book Page 18 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Upper Threading CONTENTS In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are described. GETTING READY SEWING BASICS ● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break. 1 Turn on the sewing machine.
F0_brotherE.book Page 19 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM • If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing machine cannot be threaded correctly. Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unrolls from the bottom front of the spool. CONTENTS Press (needle position button) once 3 or twice to raise the needle. Place the spool for the upper thread onto the 6 spool pin.
F0_brotherE.book Page 20 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— While using your right hand to hold the thread 0 passed under the thread guide plate taut, pass CAUTION 1 1 Shutter pass the thread behind the thread guide cover to the front. 1 1 Pass the thread through the thread hook at the a base of the needle bar. 1 Thread guide cover Pass the thread under the thread guide plate 9 from the right.
F0_brotherE.book Page 21 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM 3 Threading the needle Lower the presser foot lever. CONTENTS The needle threader can be used with needle size 75/11 through 100/16. For more details on the needle, refer to “Needle types and their uses” (page 26). With your left hand, hold the end of the 1 thread passed through the needle bar thread 1 hook, and then pass the thread through the thread guide discs from the front. X The presser foot is lowered.
F0_brotherE.book Page 22 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Raise the presser foot lever, pass the thread 7 through the presser foot, and then pull out 1 Using the twin needle With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different threads. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra spool pin and the spool cap.
F0_brotherE.book Page 23 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin 4 winder shaft. Thread the upper thread in the same way that 7 the upper thread for the left side was threaded. CONTENTS Insert the extra spool pin so that it is perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft. 1 1 • For details, refer to step 8 through 0 of “Threading the upper thread” (page 20). Swing down the spool pin so that it is 5 horizontal.
F0_brotherE.book Page 24 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Select a stitch. a • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to • Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less. CAUTION Using thread that winds off quickly When using thread that winds off quickly, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the enclosed spool net over the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin.
F0_brotherE.book Page 25 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of the bobbin Pulling up the bobbin thread of the machine. CONTENTS When making gathers or before free-motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below. 5 thread under the presser foot toward the rear Insert the bobbin into the shuttle. 1 • Refer to steps 1 through 5 of “Installing the bobbin” (page 16). Pass the bobbin thread through the slot. Reattach the bobbin cover.
F0_brotherE.book Page 26 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Replacing the Needle Needle precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below. ● Only use home sewing machine needles.
F0_brotherE.book Page 27 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Memo Checking the needle Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.
F0_brotherE.book Page 28 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Hold the needle with your left hand, and then Replacing the needle Press screw counterclockwise to remove the needle. 1 (needle position button) once or 1 twice to raise the needle. 2 • Do not apply a strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.
F0_brotherE.book Page 29 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Replacing the Presser Foot CONTENTS The presser foot presses down on the fabric. Presser foot precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet. CAUTION needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break. ● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
F0_brotherE.book Page 30 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Place a different presser foot below the holder 5 so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the 1 Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot The amount of pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric can be adjusted. 1 Lower the presser foot lever.
F0_brotherE.book Page 31 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Removing the presser foot holder ■ Removing the presser foot holder With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when quilting. Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot. GETTING READY Remove the presser foot.
F0_brotherE.book Page 32 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— 3 CAUTION Raise the presser foot lever. 1 1 Presser foot lever X The presser foot is raised. With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot 4 holder screw, and then remove the walking Note ● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium. foot.
F0_brotherE.book Page 33 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces Stitching cylindrical pieces Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs. The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of fabric easier. Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left. GETTING READY 1 Sewing large pieces of fabric CONTENTS When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment.
F0_brotherE.book Page 34 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Turn the screw at the bottom of the legs to 4 adjust their height. CONTENTS ● Do not move the sewing machine while the wide table is attached, otherwise damage or injuries may occur. When you are finished using the wide table, 5 remove it. Install the flat bed attachment back in its Memo ● With the legs folded up, the wide table can be stored attached to the hard case.
F0_brotherE.book Page 35 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM SEWING BASICS CONTENTS 2 The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter. Adjusting the Thread Tension..................................................................................44 Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length....................................................................45 Useful Functions .....................................................................................................
F0_brotherE.book Page 36 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing CAUTION CONTENTS Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions. ● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, GETTING READY keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and balance wheel, otherwise injuries may occur.
F0_brotherE.book Page 37 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM General sewing procedure 1 Turn on the machine. CONTENTS Follow the basic procedures below to sew. Turn on the sewing machine. For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Turning on the machine” (page 11). ↓ Select the stitch. Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 54). GETTING READY 2 ↓ 3 Attach the presser foot.
F0_brotherE.book Page 38 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Positioning the fabric 1 CONTENTS Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly. Turn on the sewing machine. Lower the presser foot lever. GETTING READY 5 The straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected.
When the end of the stitching is reached, (start/stop button) once. 3 press Starting to sew Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the operation buttons or the foot controller. ■ Using the operation buttons Sewing can be started and stopped using the operation button (start/stop button). Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or 1 right to select the desired sewing speed.
F0_brotherE.book Page 40 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— 3 Turn on the sewing machine. When you are finished sewing, raise the 7 needle, and then cut the threads. Memo Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or 4 right to select the desired sewing speed. CAUTION ● Do not allow thread or dust to 1 Sewing speed controller • The speed set using the sewing speed controller is the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.
F0_brotherE.book Page 41 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press Securing the stitching Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching.
F0_brotherE.book Page 42 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn, (reverse/reinforcement stitch button). 7 release Press (start/stop button), or press down 8 on the foot controller. pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other. At this time, if the start/stop button is held pressed, the machine sews at a low speed.
F0_brotherE.book Page 43 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Cutting the thread CONTENTS When you have finished sewing, cut the threads. 1 sewing machine is stopped, press When you wish to finish the stitching and the (needle position button) once to raise the needle. GETTING READY 1 1 Needle position button • The needle is raised. SEWING BASICS 2 Raise the presser foot lever.
F0_brotherE.book Page 44 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting the Thread Tension Changing the tension of the upper thread ■ Upper thread is too loose If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose. 5 1 2 3 1 4 3 1 2 3 4 4 Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Upper thread Bobbin thread The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric.
F0_brotherE.book Page 45 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length Adjusting the stitch width The stitch width can be adjusted with the arrow keys. X The stitch width adjustment button lights up. ● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. Slide the stitch width adjustment slider up and 2 down.
F0_brotherE.book Page 46 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting the stitch length Press the stitch length adjustment button in 1 the operation panel. X The stitch length adjustment button lights up. CONTENTS The stitch length can be adjusted with the arrow keys.
F0_brotherE.book Page 47 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Useful Functions CONTENTS Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below. Changing the needle stop position Press (needle stop position key) in the operation panel to switch between the two settings. The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching. Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected.
F0_brotherE.book Page 48 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Position the fabric under the presser foot, and (start/stop button) once. 3 then press X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are sewn, the sewing machine stops. CONTENTS 1 X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are sewn, the machine starts sewing.
F0_brotherE.book Page 49 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Useful Sewing Tips CONTENTS Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project. Trial sewing Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. For details on sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to “Sewing an even seam allowance” (page 51).
F0_brotherE.book Page 50 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION Sewing thick fabrics 1 Sewing direction SEWING BASICS 1 thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break. GETTING READY ■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that keeps the presser foot level.
F0_brotherE.book Page 51 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Sewing thin fabrics To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate. 1 1 2 1 Stabilizer material or paper First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.
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F0_brotherE.book Page 53 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES CONTENTS 3 The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter. Overcasting Stitches................................................................................................56 Basic Stitching.........................................................................................................60 Blind Hem Stitching ....................................................................................
F0_brotherE.book Page 54 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting Stitching Press Selecting stitching Each press of increases the number by one. After “9” (“4” for the number on the left) is reached, the number returns to “0”. Pressing on the right changes the second digit (ones) and pressing on the left changes the first digit (tens).
F0_brotherE.book Page 55 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM To adjust the stitch width, slide the stitch 2 width adjustment slider up or down. 3 2 4 GETTING READY 1 2 3 4 1 CONTENTS Press the stitch width adjustment button, and then slide the stitch width adjustment slider to adjust the stitch width. Stitch width adjustment slider Stitch width adjustment button Wide Narrow To adjust the stitch length, slide the stitch SEWING BASICS 3 length adjustment slider up or down.
F0_brotherE.book Page 56 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Overcasting Stitches Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” CONTENTS Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Seven stitches are available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used.
F0_brotherE.book Page 57 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J” Stitch Name Application Pattern Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Manual Auto Manual 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.5–4.0 (1/32–3/16) Preventing fraying (center baseline/reverse stitching) 3-point zigzag stitch Preventing fraying in thick fabrics 5.
F0_brotherE.book Page 58 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter Stitch Name Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Manual Auto Manual Sewing straight stitches while cutting the fabric 0.0 (0) 0.0–2.5 (0–3/32) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) Preventing fraying in thin and mediumweight fabrics while cutting the fabric 3.5 (1/8) 3.5–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 2.
F0_brotherE.book Page 59 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Raise the presser foot lever to check that the 6 side cutter is securely attached. Position the fabric in the side cutter. 0 The cut in the fabric should be positioned over the guide plate of the side cutter. CONTENTS Pass the upper thread under the side cutter, 7 and then pull it out toward the rear of the sewing machine. • If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut. Select a stitch.
F0_brotherE.book Page 60 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Basic Stitching Stitch Name Application Pattern Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks (left baseline/ reverse stitching) Straight stitch (center needle position) Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks (center baseline/reverse stitching) Auto Manual Auto Manual 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) – – 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.
F0_brotherE.book Page 61 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Blind Hem Stitching Stitch Name Application Pattern Blind hem stitch Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 0.0 (0) +3 – – 3 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) Presser Foot GETTING READY Blind hem stitching on mediumweight fabrics Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] R Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.
F0_brotherE.book Page 62 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— R 1 1 1 2 3 2 1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Sew with the fold of the hem against the 7 presser foot guide. 8 Remove the basting stitching.
F0_brotherE.book Page 63 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Buttonhole Stitching Stitch Name Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Auto Manual Auto Manual Horizontal buttonholes on thin and mediumweight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) Buttonholes with bar tacks on both ends for stabilized fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics 6.0 3.0–6.0 (15/64) (1/8–15/64) 1.
F0_brotherE.book Page 64 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Buttonhole sewing 1 GETTING READY 1 1 Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position 1 and length of the buttonhole. 1 2 5 3 4 1 2 3 4 5 Button guide plate Presser foot scale Pin Marks on buttonhole foot 5 mm (3/16 inch) 2 foot “A”, and then insert the button that will Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole be put through the buttonhole.
F0_brotherE.book Page 65 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. • When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct size. CONTENTS ■ If the button does not fit in the button guide plate Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length.
F0_brotherE.book Page 66 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Raise the buttonhole lever to its original 9 position. 1 the stitching from being cut. 1 a and open the buttonhole.
F0_brotherE.book Page 67 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM ■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread. Measure the distance between the holes in the Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the GETTING READY Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
F0_brotherE.book Page 68 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— 4 Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”. CAUTION does not touch the button, otherwise the needle may bend or break. Start sewing. 9 • After sewing for about 10 seconds at low speed, press (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) to sew reinforcement stitches. 1 • When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you.
F0_brotherE.book Page 69 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM CONTENTS ■ Attaching a shank to a button To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with space between it and the fabric, and then wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button securely. Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”, 1 and then pull the shank lever toward you.
F0_brotherE.book Page 70 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Zipper Insertion Stitch Name Application Pattern Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and pintucks Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Auto Manual Auto Manual – – 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) Presser Foot I There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper are described below.
F0_brotherE.book Page 71 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM 6 Select stitch . Inserting a side zipper Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper for side openings and back openings. CONTENTS • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 54). CAUTION ● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to 7 Topstitch around the zipper.
F0_brotherE.book Page 72 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Press the seam allowance so that the right side 4 (the side that will not be stitched) has an extra 3 mm (1/8 inch). CAUTION 1 Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the 8 extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge 5 of the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), of the zipper.
F0_brotherE.book Page 73 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and 0 then baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric. When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the c end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper, d and then continue sewing. CONTENTS with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and then raise the presser foot lever. 1 GETTING READY 1 Basting stitching a of zipper foot “I”.
F0_brotherE.book Page 74 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape Stitch Name Application Pattern Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Auto Manual Auto Manual Stretch fabrics 1.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) Attaching elastic 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.
F0_brotherE.book Page 75 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM 3 Select stitch . CONTENTS • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 54). Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while 4 stretching the tape so that it is the same length GETTING READY as the fabric. While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.
F0_brotherE.book Page 76 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching Stitch Name Application Pattern Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Attaching appliqués (center baseline/reverse stitching) 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) Appliqué quilting, free-motion quilting, satin stitching 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.
F0_brotherE.book Page 77 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Select a stitch. 5 • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” Appliqué stitching (page 54). 6 begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué, Turn the balance wheel toward you, and then making sure that the needle drops just outside of the appliqué. 1 CONTENTS Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam 1 allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and 3/16 inch).
F0_brotherE.book Page 78 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the 2 pattern spans over both pieces. Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called “piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
F0_brotherE.book Page 79 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Memo Quilting Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily be sewn using the optional walking foot and the optional quilting guide. 1 Baste the fabric to be quilted. CONTENTS ● To change the width of the seam allowance (the needle position), adjust the stitch width. Attach the walking foot. GETTING READY 2 • For details, refer to “Using the optional walking foot” (page 31).
F0_brotherE.book Page 80 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Using the optional quilting guide Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced. Free-motion quilting CONTENTS With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered (using the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting.
F0_brotherE.book Page 81 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear (to the right as seen from the front of the machine). 4 of the machine on the base, to After sewing is finished, slide the drop feed (to the left as seen from the front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs. 7 lever to CONTENTS 1 1 2 • Normally, the drop feed lever is positioned at the left.
F0_brotherE.book Page 82 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Reinforcement Stitching Stitch Name Application Pattern Bar tack stitch Reinforcing the seams of sleeves and inseams 1 Manual Auto Manual 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) J 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) 0.4 (1/64) 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) A Attach zigzag foot “J”.
F0_brotherE.book Page 83 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Attach buttonhole foot “A”. 2 • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. foot” (page 29). Select stitch CONTENTS 3 1 . • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 54). Position the fabric so that the opening of the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening.
F0_brotherE.book Page 84 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Eyelet Stitching Stitch Name Sewing eyelets, for example, on belts Attach monogramming foot “N”. Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 7.0 (1/4) 7.0, 6.0 or 5.0 (1/4, 15/64 or 3/16) – – 5 Presser Foot N Start sewing.
F0_brotherE.book Page 85 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Decorative Stitching Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Name Smocking stitch Decorative bridging stitches Smocking fabrics to add texture and elasticity Satin scallop stitching Lace sewing, decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc. Manual Auto Manual 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/25–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.2 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) 5.
F0_brotherE.book Page 86 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sew with the center of the presser foot 6 aligned along the center of the two pieces of Fagoting fabric. CONTENTS Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used. Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric 1 along their seams.
F0_brotherE.book Page 87 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Scallop stitching 1 The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric. Attach monogramming foot “N”. 1 Attach zigzag foot “J”. 2 Select stitch . Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making 3 sure not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric.
F0_brotherE.book Page 88 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— 5 Select stitch or . 6 Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy quilt. Stitch between the straight stitches. 1 Attach zigzag foot “J”. CONTENTS • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 54).
F0_brotherE.book Page 89 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM 4 Heirloom stitching Start sewing. 1 CONTENTS When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or mediumweight fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics. Install the wing needle. ● Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 2 Attach monogramming foot “N”. Partially removing threads is called “drawnwork”.
F0_brotherE.book Page 90 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————— 3 Select stitch 2 . Attach monogramming foot “N”. With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew 4 along the right edge of the frayed section. • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 29). Select stitch . • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 54). Turn the fabric around to sew the opposite 5 side.
F0_brotherE.book Page 91 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM APPENDIX Stitch Settings..........................................................................................................92 Maintenance ...........................................................................................................96 Troubleshooting ......................................................................................................98 Index ......................................................................
F0_brotherE.book Page 92 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Stitch Settings Walking Foot Side cutter 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) No Reverse No Yes J/I Attaching zippers, basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. – – 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) Yes Reverse No No Triple stretch stitch J Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.
Walking Foot Side cutter 1.2 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) Yes Reinforcement No No J Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sewing overcasting on both pieces of fabric, such as with tricot 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) Yes Reinforcement No No J Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.2 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) Yes Reinforcement No No J Fagoting and decorative stitching 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.
F0_brotherE.book Page 94 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) No Automatic reinforcement No No A Secured buttonholes for fabrics that have backings 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) No Automatic reinforcement No No A Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics 6.0 3.0–6.0 (15/54) (1/8–15/64) 1.0 (1/16) 0.5–2.0 (1/32–1/16) No Automatic reinforcement No No A Buttonholes for stretch fabrics 6.0 3.0–6.0 (15/54) (1/8–15/64) 1.5 (1/16) 1.0–3.
Walking Foot Side cutter 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No No N For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No No N For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No No N For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No No N For decoration, etc. 7.0 (1/4) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 0.
F0_brotherE.book Page 96 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Maintenance Cleaning the machine surface Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the shuttle; therefore, it should be cleaned periodically. 1 Turn off the sewing machine. CAUTION ● Unplug the power supply cord before CAUTION ● Unplug the power supply cord before cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur.
F0_brotherE.book Page 97 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Turn the balance wheel toward you until the 3 tip of the shuttle hook aligns with the edge of the race shelf. 1 2 Shuttle race Shuttle Edge of the shuttle race Tip of the shuttle hook GETTING READY 1 2 3 4 2 • Be sure to turn the balance wheel toward you. Turning the balance wheel away from you may damage the machine. 2 Remove the shuttle. 4 Grasp the shuttle, and then pull it out.
F0_brotherE.book Page 98 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Troubleshooting Symptom Remedy The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine. page 11 The start/stop button was not pressed. Press the start/stop button. page 39 The presser foot lever is raised. Lower the presser foot lever. The start/stop button was pressed, even though the foot controller is connected.
F0_brotherE.book Page 99 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference Correct the upper threading. page 18 There are knots or tangles in the thread. Remove any knots or tangles. – The selected needle is not appropriate for the thread being used. Select a needle that is appropriate for the type of stitch being used. The upper thread breaks. The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle.
F0_brotherE.book Page 100 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom The spool is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the spool. page 18 The combination of fabric, thread and needle is not correct. Select a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn. page 26 The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 27 If thin fabrics are being sewn, the stitch is too coarse.
F0_brotherE.book Page 101 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Symptom Remedy Reference Slide the drop feed lever to the left. The stitch is too fine. Lengthen the stitch length. page 46 The presser foot that is used is not appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew. Attach the presser foot that is appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew. page 92 The pressure of the presser foot is weak.
F0_brotherE.book Page 102 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Operation beep ■ For a correct operation One beep is sounded. ■ If an incorrect operation is performed Two or four beeps are sounded. If the upper cover of the sewing machine was removed, re-attach it as described in the following procedure. 1 Hold the upper cover level.
F0_brotherE.book Page 103 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM Index 3-point zigzag stitch ......................................................57 fagoting .........................................................................86 features ...........................................................................2 feed dog position switch ................................. Cover C, 81 feed dogs ........................................................ Cover C, 80 foot controller .............................
F0_brotherE.book Page 104 Wednesday, May 21, 2003 11:38 AM APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— patchwork stitching .......................................................78 piecing ..........................................................................78 pocket corners ...............................................................82 positioning fabric ..........................................................38 presser foot .............................................
F0_BrotherE_cover DIC181p K English 885-S60 XE1140-001 Printed in China
