Computerized Embroidery and Sewing Machine Operation Manual Product Code 885-V31/V32/V33 GETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES EMBROIDERY APPENDIX Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com p where you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Introduction Thank you for purchasing this embroidery and sewing machine. Before using this machine, carefully read the "Important Safety Instructions", and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— • Never drop or insert any object into any opening. • Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. • Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine, power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY IMPORTANT • In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug. • Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted. • If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Contents Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 1 Important Safety Instructions .............................................................................................. 1 Machine Features ................................................................................................................ 7 Accessories ...........................................
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Setting the Stitch ...............................................................................................................57 Adjusting the stitch width ................................................................................................................................ 57 Adjusting the stitch length ...............................................................................................................................
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 114 EMBROIDERY 117 Embroidering Neatly ....................................................................................................... 118 What to prepare ..........................................................................................................................................
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Machine Features 9 a Automatic thread cutting The thread can be cut automatically after sewing (page 55, 62). b Fast bobbin winding system With the fast and simple bobbin winder, you can wind bobbins with one press of a button (page 22). c Built-in stitches You can select from the built-in utility stitches available (page 70). d Seven-point feed dogs Ensure smooth, even feeding of multiple fabric layers and a variety of fabric weights (page 11).
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Accessories After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your dealer. Included accessories Note z Foot controller: Model T This foot controller can be used on the machine with product code 885-V31/V32/V33.The product code is mentioned on the machine rating plate. z The securing screw on the side of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— No. Part Code U.S.A. / Canada Others XC2691-023 XC3098-051 XD0810-031 Part Name 1 2 3 Buttonhole foot "A" Overcasting foot "G" Monogramming foot "N" 4 Zipper foot "I" X59370-021 5 6 7 Zigzag foot "J" (on machine) Blind stitch foot "R" Button fitting foot "M" XC3021-031 XC4051-031 XE2137-001 8 Seam ripper 9 No.
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts. Front view a Thread guide cover (page 24, 33) Pass the thread under this thread guide cover when winding the bobbin thread and threading the machine.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Needle and presser foot section Right-side/rear view a Buttonhole lever (page 86) Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks. a Handle Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine. b Thread guide disk (page 34) Pass the thread through the thread guide disk when using the needle threader to thread the needle.
——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Operation buttons The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations. a Start/stop button Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is pressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 51). The button changes color according to the machine’s operation mode.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Operation panel The front operation panel has an LCD (liquid crystal display) and operation keys. a LCD (liquid crystal display) (touch panel) Setting for the selected stitch or pattern and error messages appear in the LCD. Touch the keys displayed on the LCD with your finger or the touch pen to perform operations. For details, refer to "LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation" (page 18). b Back key Press to return to the previous screen.
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1 GETTING READY The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter. Turning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................16 LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation..................................................................18 Winding/Installing the Bobbin.................................................................................22 Upper Threading ..........................................................
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Turning the Machine On/Off This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off. Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. WARNING ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Turning on the machine Prepare the included power cord. a off (the main power switch is set to " Make sure that the sewing machine is turned "), and then plug the power supply cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine. b house hold electrical outlet. Insert the plug of the power supply cord into a Turning off the machine When you have finished using the sewing machine, turn it off.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) Operation Selected stitch, pattern settings and messages are displayed on the LCD (liquid crystal display) on the front of the sewing machine. Change the screen on the LCD using the keys on the right side of the LCD, and make operations by directly touching the icons with your finger or a touch pen. For details, refer to "Operation panel" (page 13). Viewing the LCD When the power is turned on, the LCD comes on.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Changing the machine settings Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed. The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below. For details on operation, refer to the next page. Attribute Icon Details Settings Needle position Specifies where the needle is positioned when the sewing machine is stopped. Stitch width control Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the sewing speed controller (page 58).
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— a Turn on the sewing machine. The highlighted display is the initial setting. X The LCD comes on. Example: Changing the needle stop position Press b panel. (Settings key) on the display X The setting screen appears. c d (Back key). When settings are complete, press Press the item to be set. Switch the screen using (Previous page key) and (Next page key). • The following screens show their default settings.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— d next page. Press Checking machine operating procedures Simple explanations can be referred on the LCD display for the following items. Displays simple explanations of setting upper thread / bobbin winding / setting bobbin thread / needle replacement / embroidery unit attachment / embroidery frame attachment / embroidery foot attachment / presser foot replacement on the LCD.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Winding/Installing the Bobbin This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread. Bobbin precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin. CAUTION ● Only use the Bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)) designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— a Turn on the sewing machine. e the spool pin. Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom. b that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so in the bobbin. Press down on the bobbin until it snaps into place. a Memo z For embroidering, use the embroidery bobbin thread.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— h and to the front. Pass the thread behind the thread guide cover Note z When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the spool. c While holding the thread near the spool with your right hand, pull the thread with your left hand as shown below.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— j the bobbin five or six times. Wind the end of the thread clockwise around l Slide the sewing speed controller to the right. While using your left hand to hold the thread that was passed through the bobbin-winding thread guide, use your right hand to wind the end of the thread. 1 Wind five or six times. a a Speed controller m When the foot controller is plugged in, press Press (Start/stop button) once. down on the foot controller.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— o winder shaft to the left, and then remove the Cut the thread with scissors, slide the bobbin bobbin from the shaft. ■ When the thread became tangled under the bobbin winder seat. If the bobbin winding starts when the thread is not passed under the pretension disk of the bobbinwinding thread guide correctly, the thread may become tangled under the bobbin winder seat. In such a case, wind off the thread according to the following procedure.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Cut the thread with scissors beside the bobbin- b winding thread guide. Installing the bobbin Install the bobbin wound with thread. a 1 CAUTION ● Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound with thread, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect. a Bobbin-winding thread guide Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left, and c then remove the bobbin from the shaft.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— a twice to raise the needle, and then raise the Press (Needle position button) once or f your right hand. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case with presser foot lever. a b • Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly. a Needle position button b Presser foot lever CAUTION b Turn off the sewing machine. c Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right. a b ● Be sure to insert the bobbin and depress it to the bottom with your finger.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Note z If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension (page 59). ■ When pulling up the bobbin thread may be necessary When making gathers or before free-motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below. a Thread the upper thread. b Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case. c Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull e out the end of the bobbin thread. Pull out about 10-15 cm (4-5 inches) of the f bobbin thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine. Reattach the bobbin cover. g Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Upper Threading This section describes how to position the spool for the upper thread, and then thread the needle. 1 a a Mark on handwheel CAUTION ● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break. ● The needle threader can be used with a 75/11 through 100/16 home sewing machine needle.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— c twice to raise the needle. Press Threading the upper thread (Needle position button) once or Set the spool of thread on the spool pin, and then thread the machine. a CAUTION ● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break. a Needle position button Note a Turn on the machine. b Raise the presser foot lever.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— f return the spool pin to its original position. Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin and Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right as shown, with the rounded side on the left. h and to the front. Pass the thread behind the thread guide cover While holding the thread near the spool with your right hand, pull the thread with your left hand as shown below.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— j thread take-up lever as shown below. Make sure that the thread is passed into the m passed through the needle bar thread guide, to Pull the end of the thread, which has been the left, then pass the thread through the notch of the thread guide (1), and then firmly pull the thread from the front and insert it into the slit of the thread guide disk marked "7" all the way (2). Make sure that the thread passes the notch of the thread guide.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— o side of the machine as much as possible to Lower the needle threader lever on the left p Raise the needle threader lever slowly. Ta make the hook turn. a 1 a Needle threader lever a Needle threader lever q the loop of the thread through the eye of the Raise the presser foot lever, and carefully pull Ta needle to pull out the end of the thread.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader) When using special thread, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread and the wing needle or the twin needle which cannot be used with the needle threader, thread the needle as described below. Thread the machine to the needle bar thread a through k on "Threading the upper thread" (page 32).
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— d bobbin winder shaft, and install the thread Insert the extra spool pin into the end of the spool on it. Then, thread the upper thread. f bar thread guide, manually thread the right Without passing the thread through the needle needle. Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front. CAUTION a Bobbin winder shaft b Extra spool pin c Thread spool ● The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— i Press l . Start sewing. • For details on starting to sew, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 51). X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to each other. X The screen for setting the twin needle appears. j Press . Note X z When changing the sewing direction, press (Needle position button) to raise the needle from the fabric, and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric. displays in reverse highlight.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Replacing the Needle This section describes how to replace the needle. 1 Needle precautions CAUTION z Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine. z Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries. Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types The sewing machine needle should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Memo z The lower the thread number is, the thicker the thread, and the higher the needle number, the thicker the needle. z A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased. ■ Ball point needle (gold colored) To avoid skipped stitches use ball point needles with stretch fabrics. ■ Transparent nylon thread Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Replacing the needle d Lower the presser foot lever. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in "Checking the needle" (page 40). 1 a twice to raise the needle. Press (Needle position button) once or a a a Presser foot lever e use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp Hold the needle with your left hand, and then screw toward you (counterclockwise) to remove the needle.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— g use the screwdriver to tighten the needle While holding the needle with your left hand, clamp screw. Install the twin needle in the same way. CAUTION z Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver. Otherwise, the needle may break or damage may result.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Replacing the Presser Foot This section describes how to replace the presser foot. 1 Presser foot precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser foot. CAUTION ● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break. ● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— e so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the Place a different presser foot below the holder notch in the holder. Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is positioned to be read. a b Note z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Removing and attaching the presser foot holder Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the embroidery foot, optional free-motion open toe quilting foot "O" and optional walking foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder. ■ Attaching the presser foot holder a Raise the presser foot lever. X The presser foot is raised.
GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing Cylindrical Pieces Free-arm sewing makes sewing cylindrical pieces easy. Free-arm sewing Removing the flat bed attachment allows for free-arm sewing, making it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs and pant legs. a Remove the flat bed attachment. a a Flat bed attachment X With the flat bed attachment removed, freearm sewing is possible. b arm, and then sew from the top.
2 SEWING BASICS The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter. Sewing.....................................................................................................................48 Setting the Stitch .....................................................................................................57 Useful Functions......................................................................................................61 Useful Sewing Tips ....................................
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions. CAUTION z While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur. z Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting stitching Stitches are selected using LCD operations. There are 67 utility stitches. Right after turning the power on, the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected. d Select a stitch. (Previous page key) displays the previous page, and (Next page key) displays the next page. a matching presser foot ready. Determine the stitch to be used, and get the • Refer to "Stitch Setting Chart" (page 70).
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— d fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel While holding the end of the thread and the Positioning the fabric toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching. Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly. a Turn on the machine. b twice to raise the needle.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Starting to sew Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. Sewing can be started and stopped using the operation button (Start/stop button) or the foot controller. For details on the foot controller, refer to next page. Memo z The machine will sew at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing. z If you press and hold the (Start/stop button) while sewing, the machine will sew at a slow speed.
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Using the foot controller Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot controller. a Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or d right to select the desired sewing speed. Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed. Turn off the sewing machine.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Memo z When the foot controller is plugged in, (Start/stop button) cannot be used to start or stop sewing. z When sewing is stopped, the needle remains lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so that the needle will stay up when sewing is stopped. For details on setting the machine so that the needle stays up when sewing is stopped, refer to "Changing the machine settings" (page 19).
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— c (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button). After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press f Keep (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching. When the end of the stitching is reached, press (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button). Keep (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are sewn.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Sewing stitches When (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) is pressed with stitches other than 1 , 3 and 7 stitches, reinforcement stitches are used. Reinforcement stitches are 3 to 5 stitches sewn on top of each other in one place. Cutting the thread When you have finished sewing, cut the thread. ■ Using the thread cutter button a When you wish to finish the stitching, press (Thread cutter button) once.
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Using the thread cutter When sewing with nylon or metallic threads, or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine to cut the threads. When you wish to finish the stitching and the (Needle position button) once to raise the needle. a sewing machine is stopped, press a a Needle position button b Raise the presser foot lever.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Setting the Stitch This machine is preset with the default settings for the stitch width and stitch length for each stitch. However, you can change any of the settings by pressing in the screen, then follow the procedure described in this section. 2 Note z Settings for some stitches cannot be changed. For details, refer to "Stitch Setting Chart" (page 70).
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Adjusting stitch width using the sewing speed controller A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the stitch width. If the sewing machine is set so that the stitch width can be adjusted using the sewing speed controller, the stitch width can quickly and easily be adjusted. In this case, the sewing speed is adjusted with the foot controller. a b e (Back key). X The initial screen appears again. Connect the foot controller.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting the stitch length The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch coarser or finer. Adjusting the thread tension You may need to change the thread tension, depending on the fabric and thread being used. ■ Correct thread tension The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric.
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Memo Memo z When you finish sewing, remove the bobbin cover and then make sure that the thread is shown as below. If the thread is not shown as below, the thread is not inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case correctly. Reinsert the thread correctly. For details, refer to page 29. ■ Upper thread is too loose If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Useful Functions Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below. Automatically sewing reverse/ reinforcement stitches d then press Position the fabric under the presser foot, and (Start/stop button) once. The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching. Depending on the selected stitch, reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are automatically set.
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Memo z Press (Start/stop button) when you want to stop the sewing machine in the middle of sewing without reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching (for example, when you want to change the sewing direction). The sewing machine stops without reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching. Press (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) at the end of the stitching. 1 b Press the stitch selection.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— e After reaching the end of the stitching, press (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) once. If stitching, such as buttonholes and bar tacking, that includes reinforcement stitching has been selected, this operation is unnecessary. Mirroring stitches You can sew the mirror image of a stitch horizontally (left and right). a Turn on the machine.
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Saving stitch settings This machine is preset with the default settings for the stitch width (zigzag width), stitch length, programmed thread-cutting, and automatic reverse/ reinforcement stitching for each stitch. However, if you wish to save specific settings for a stitch so that they can be used later, press after changing the settings to save the new settings with the selected stitch. This feature can be used only with utility stitches.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Useful Sewing Tips Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project. Trial sewing After you have set up the machine with the thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn, the machine automatically sets the stitch length and width for the stitch that is selected.
SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— ■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching Zigzag foot "J" is equipped with a feature that keeps the presser foot level. Sewing hook-and-loop fastener CAUTION z Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop a a Sewing direction a Raise the presser foot lever. fastener which is for sewing. If the glue is attached to the needle or the bobbin hook race, it may cause malfunction.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing stretch fabrics First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric. ■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle position of a seam sewn with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a marking in the needle plate.
SEWING BASICS 68 ————————————————————————————————————————————
3 UTILITY STITCHES The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter. Stitch Setting Chart .................................................................................................70 Overcasting Stitches................................................................................................74 Basic Stitching .........................................................................................................78 Blind Hem Stitching ................................
——————————————————————————————————————————— UTILITY STITCHES Stitch Setting Chart Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table. Application J Basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J) Reverse No J Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J) Reinforcement Yes 3.
Application Twin Needle Pattern Presser Foot Stitch Name Walking Foot ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching R Blind hem stitching on mediumweight fabrics 00 3← – →3 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) No Reinforcement No R Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics 00 3← – →3 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) No Reinforcement No J Appliqué stitching 3.5 (1/8) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.5 1.6–4.
Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching J Decorative stitching 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 3.0 (1/8) 2.0–4.0 No (1/16–3/16) Reinforcement No J Decorative stitching 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No J Decorative stitching 5.5 (7/32) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.6 1.0–4.0 Yes (1/16) (1/16–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No N Decorative stitching and elastic-attaching 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No 3.
Twin Needle Pattern Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching A Horizontal buttonholes on thin and mediumweight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.5 0.2–1.0 No (1/32) (1/64–1/16) Automatic reinforcement No A Horizontal buttonholes on areas that are subject to strain 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.5 0.2–1.0 No (1/32) (1/64–1/16) Automatic reinforcement No A Horizontal buttonholes on thick fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.5 0.2–1.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Overcasting Stitches Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. 15 stitches are available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used. Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot "G" Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot "G".
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot "J" Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot "J". Stitch Name Pattern Application Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Auto Zigzag stitch (center needle position) 7 Zigzag stitch (right needle position) 8 2-point zigzag stitch 9 3-point zigzag stitch 10 14 Overcasting stitch Preventing fraying (center baseline/reverse stitching) 3.5 (1/8) Manual 0.0-7.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter Using the optional side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— d side cutter is securely attached. Raise the presser foot lever to check that the h The cut in the fabric should be positioned over Position the fabric in the side cutter. the guide plate of the side cutter. Pass the upper thread under the side cutter, e and then pull it out toward the rear of the sewing machine. a a Guide plate Memo z If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut. f Select a stitch.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Basic Stitching Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— d beginning of the stitching. Lower the needle into the fabric at the e f Start sewing. ■ Changing the needle position The needle position used as the baseline is different for the straight stitch (left needle position) and the straight stitch (center needle position). • For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 51). • For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to "Securing the stitching" (page 53).
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Blind Hem Stitching Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching. Stitch Name Pattern 17 Blind hem stitch 18 Application Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 00 3← – →3 2.0 (1/16) 1.0-3.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— d Fold back the fabric inside along the basting. 4 2 h free-arm sewing possible. Remove the flat bed attachment and make • For details on free-arm sewing, refer to "Freearm sewing" (page 46). 3 i arm, make sure that the fabric feeds correctly, Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the 1 and then start sewing.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— ■ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold The needle is too far to the left. Press to decrease the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem. 1 2 a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric ■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold The needle is too far to the right. Press to increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Buttonhole Stitching Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. 10 stitches are available for sewing one-step buttonholes, one for sewing on buttons.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Buttonhole sewing The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below. 1 1 1 1 a Reinforcement stitching CAUTION ● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the pressor foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur if (Start/stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— b foot "A", and then insert the button that will be Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole put through the buttonhole. d Select a stitch. • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49). ■ If the button does not fit in the button guide plate Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— h and then cut the threads. Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric, Note z Do not lower the needle into fabric when aligning the marks. Desired results may not be achieved. z When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot. i position. Raise the buttonhole lever to its original j the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at the stitching from being cut.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION ● When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting path, otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips. ● Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended. ■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread. Hook the gimp thread onto the part of a buttonhole foot "A" shown in the illustration.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— e the distance between the holes in the button. Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as Button sewing Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with two or with four holes can be attached. f be sewn, and lower the presser foot lever. Place the button in the position where it will a button to be attached.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— h Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so Start sewing. that the speed will be slow). X The sewing machine automatically stops after sewing reinforcement stitches. Note z Do not press 3 (Thread cutter button). i stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and Pull the upper thread at the end of the then tie it with the bobbin thread. Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Zipper Insertion A zipper can be sewn in place. Stitch Name Straight stitch (center needle position) Pattern 3 Application Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and pintucks Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 3.5 (1/8) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2-5.0 (1/64-3/16) Presser Foot I CAUTION ● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the pressor foot.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— e and then baste the zipper in place. Align the seam with the center of the zipper, h Select stitch 3 . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49). 2 1 3 CAUTION a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stitching c Zipper f the basting on the outside.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— d wrong side of the fabric. Press open the seam allowance from the Inserting a side zipper Stitching is visible on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper application for side openings and back openings. 1 2 1 a Wrong side of fabric e (the side that will not be stitched) has an extra Press the seam allowance so that the right side 3 mm (1/8 inch).
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— h Select stitch 3 . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49). j end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and then raise the presser foot lever. k Open the zipper and continue sewing.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— n Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper Topstitch around the zipper. opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot. 3 2 1 a b c d e 4 5 Right side of fabric End of zipper opening Reverse stitches Beginning of stitching Basting stitching CAUTION ● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached. Stitch Name Triple stretch stitch Stretch stitch 2-point zigzag stitch Pattern 4 5 Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto Manual Stretch fabrics 0.0 (0) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16) Stretch fabrics 1.0 (1/16) 1.0-3.0 (1/16-1/8) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16) Attaching elastic 5.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— d stretching the tape so that it is the same length Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while Elastic attaching When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used. as the fabric.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below. Stitch Name Pattern Application Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Auto 7 Zigzag stitch 24 19 Appliqué stitch 25 21 Piecing straight stitch 22 Manual Auto Manual 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0-4.0 (0-3/16) Attaching appliqués 2.5-7.0 (3/32-1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.6-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 1.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— e Appliqué stitching a allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and 3/ Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam Select a stitch. • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49). 16 inch). a a Seam allowance b stabilizer on the back of the appliqué, and then Place a pattern made of thick paper or fold over the seam allowance using an iron.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching c Select stitch 21 or 22 . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49). a place it over the lower piece. Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and b pattern spans over both pieces. Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the Memo z The piecing straight stitch shows a "P" on the LCD. d with the edge of the fabric.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— d foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser Quilting with the screwdriver. Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called "quilting". Quilts can easily be sewn using the optional walking foot and the quilting guide. a a Presser foot holder screw X The walking foot is attached.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Using the optional quilting guide Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced. Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the a hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser foot holder. Walking foot 3 Presser foot holder Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that b the guide aligns with the seam that has already been sewn.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— c hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder Hold the quilting foot "O" in place with your right Free-motion quilting screw using the screwdriver in your left hand. With free-motion quilting, lower the feed dogs (using the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. When free-motion quilting, use the following instructions with the optional free-motion open toe quilting foot "O" (SA187, F061 (XE1097-001)).
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Reinforcement Stitching Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners. Stitch Name Triple stretch stitch Bar tack stitch Pattern Application Reinforcing the seams of sleeves and inseams 4 Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Auto Manual Auto 0.0 (0) 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) 2.5 1.5-4.0 (3/32) (1/16-3/16) Reinforcing the ends of 2.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— a Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot Determine the desired length of the bar tack. • Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. "A" to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— f your left hand, and then start sewing. Gently hold the end of the upper thread in X Once sewing is completed, the sewing machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops. g and then cut the threads. Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric, 3 h position. Raise the buttonhole lever to its original Memo z If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Darning Fabric that has been torn can be darned. Darning is sewn as shown below. a a a Reinforcement stitching a Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot Determine the desired length of the darning. "A" to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).) c Select stitch 58 or 59 . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49).
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— f your left hand, and then start sewing. Gently hold the end of the upper thread in Memo z When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the darning will not be sewn with the correct size. X Once sewing is completed, the sewing machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops. g and then cut the threads. Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric, a a Do not reduce the gap. e possible.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Eyelet Stitching Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm (1/4, 15/ 64 and 3/16 inch). Stitch Name Eyelet stitch Pattern Application 62 Sewing eyelets, for example, on belts Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Auto Manual 7.0 (1/4) 7.0, 6.0 or 5.0 (1/4, 15/64 or 3/16) Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Auto Manual 7.0 (1/4) 7.0, 6.0 or 5.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Decorative Stitching The utility stitches contain the following decorative stitches. Stitch Name Pattern Application Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Auto 32 Fagoting stitch 33 Sewing two pieces of fabric together across an open seam 28 Joining stitch 29 4.0 (3/16) Decorative bridging stitches 5.0 (3/16) 30 Shell tuck stitch 20 5.0 (3/16) Shell tuck stitching on collars and curves 4.
UTILITY STITCHES Stitch Name ——————————————————————————————————————————— Pattern Application Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Auto 46 6.0 (15/64) Heirloom stitching, etc. 47 5.0 (3/16) Manual Auto Manual 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4) 1.6 (1/16) 1.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 3.0 (1/8) 2.0-4.0 (1/16-3/16) 35 Decorative stitch 4.0 (3/16) 36 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) Decorative stitching 37 5.5 (7/32) 38 5.0 (3/16) Stitch Length [mm (inch)] 2.5 (3/32) 1.6 (1/16) 1.5-7.0 (1/16-1/4) Presser Foot N J 1.0-4.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— f along the center of the two pieces of fabric. Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned Scallop stitching The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called "scalloping". It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of projects. a g After sewing is finished, remove the paper. Attach monogramming foot "N". • For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43).
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Smocking e Select stitch 31 f Stitch between the straight stitches. g Pull out the threads for the straight stitches. The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called "smocking". It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric. a , 32 , or 33 . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49). Attach zigzag foot "J".
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— e down to one side. Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks Shell tuck stitching The gathers that look like shells are called "shell tucks". They are used to decorate trims, the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics. a Fold the fabric along the bias. b Attach zigzag foot "J". 3 J • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 43). Select stitch 20 c thread tension.
UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Joining Heirloom stitching Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy quilt. a Attach zigzag foot "J". When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— c The stitches that can be used are 39 Select a stitch. 41 , 42 , 43 , 44 , 45 , 46 , 40 , or 47 . Partially removing threads is called "drawnwork". This gives a beautiful result with fabrics that have a loose weave. Two ways to create drawnwork are described below. ■ Drawnwork (Example 1) • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 49). a Pull out several threads from the fabric. b Attach monogramming foot "N".
UTILITY STITCHES e Press ——————————————————————————————————————————— on the LCD. ■ Drawnwork (Example 2) X The pattern displayed at the top of the screen is mirrored. Pull out several threads from two sections of a the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of about 4 mm (3/16 inch). Sew along the other edge of the frayed section f so that it looks like the previous stitching. 1 a 4 mm (3/16 inch) N b Press Attach monogramming foot "N" .
4 EMBROIDERY The steps for embroidering are described in this chapter. Embroidering Neatly .............................................................................................118 Attaching the Embroidery Foot..............................................................................120 Attaching the Embroidery Unit..............................................................................123 Preparing the Fabric ...............................................................................
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Embroidering Neatly This section describes the preparations and basic procedures for embroidering. What to prepare The following is necessary for embroidering. ■ Embroidery thread (option) For the upper thread, use the embroidery thread or country thread. ■ Fabric Prepare the fabric for embroidery. Prepare a piece of fabric a little larger than the embroidery frame that matches the size of the pattern you want to sew.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Embroidery step by step The basic steps for embroidery are as follows. 1 Presser foot attachment Attach the embroidery foot "Q". For details on attaching the embroidery foot, refer to "Attaching the embroidery foot" (page 120). ↓ 2 Checking the needle Use a needle matched to the fabric. For details on replacing the needle, refer to "Replacing the needle" (page 41). ↓ 3 Attach the embroidery unit.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Attaching the Embroidery Foot This section describes how to attach the embroidery foot "Q". Attaching the embroidery foot b Turn off the sewing machine. Attach the embroidery foot "Q" when embroidering. Have the included embroidery foot "Q" and a screwdriver ready. CAUTION a b a Embroidery foot bar b Caught by the presser foot holder screw CAUTION ● Always use the embroidery foot "Q" when embroidering.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— e remove the presser foot holder. Loosen the presser foot holder screw and Turn the screwdriver toward the back. h foot holder screw. Secure the embroidery foot with the presser Set the embroidery foot perpendicular. d a a c b a b c d a Presser foot holder screw Screwdriver Presser foot holder Presser bar Presser foot holder screw i Turn the screwdriver toward the front. Tighten the presser foot holder screw. f hand, as shown.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— d embroidery foot with your finger, loosen the While pressing in the lever at the back of the Removing the embroidery foot presser foot holder screw, and then remove embroidery foot "Q". Press (Needle position button) once or a twice to raise the needle. Turn the screwdriver toward the back. a a a Needle position button a Screwdriver b Turn off the sewing machine.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Attaching the Embroidery Unit This section describes how to attach the embroidery unit. Embroidery unit precautions Attaching the embroidery unit Get the included embroidery unit ready. CAUTION ● Do not move the sewing machine with the embroidery unit in place. The embroidery unit may be dropped and cause injury. ● Keep your hands and other objects away from the embroidery carriage and frame. Otherwise injury may result.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— c machine arm. Slide the embroidery unit onto the sewing Push it in until it clicks and stops. a a Carriage CAUTION X The embroidery unit is attached. ● Do not put your hands or other objects near the carriage. It may cause injury. Note z Make sure that there is no gap between the embroidery unit and the sewing machine, otherwise the embroidery pattern may not be sewn correctly. Be sure to fully insert the connector into the connection port.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— d the embroidery unit, and slowly pull the Hold the release button on the bottom left of Removing the embroidery unit embroidery unit to the left. Make sure that the sewing machine is completely stopped and follow the instructions below. a Remove the embroidery frame. b Press • For details on removing the embroidery frame, refer to "Removing the embroidery frame" (page 131). , and then press .
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Preparing the Fabric After attaching a stabilizer material to the embroidery fabric, it is stretched on an embroidery frame. a the embroidery frame being used. Prepare stabilizer material that is larger than Attaching a stabilizer material to the fabric Attach a stabilizer material for embroidery to the fabric to prevent poor quality embroidery designs. a c b Memo z We recommend the optional stabilizer material for embroidery.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— a screw and remove the inner and outer frames, Loosen the embroidery frame adjustment Setting the fabric in the embroidery frame The fabric is stretched in the embroidery frame. If the fabric is loose, the quality of the embroidery pattern may be poor. Put the fabric in the frame without slack following the steps below. Have a fabric with a stabilizer material attached and the embroidery frame (medium, small or large) ready.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— e without loosening the adjustment screw. Gently remove the fabric from the frame g any slack in the fabric by hand. The goal is to Tighten the adjustment screw while removing have a drum-like sound when the stretched fabric is struck lightly. Memo z This precautionary step will help reduce pattern distortion while embroidering. f fabric again, lining up Press the inner frame in from the top of the on the inner frame and on outer frame.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— b Place the embroidery sheet on the inner frame. a ■ Embroidery on fabrics that cannot be stretched on an embroidery frame When small pieces of fabric that cannot be stretched on an embroidery frame or thin pieces like ribbon are being embroidered, use stabilizer material as a base to stretch on the frame. We recommend stabilizer material for all embroidery.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Attaching the Embroidery Frame This section describes how to attach the embroidery frame. e the embroidery carriage frame holder from the Firmly insert the embroidery frame guide into Attaching the embroidery frame Wind the embroidery bobbin thread onto the a bobbin and set it into the bobbin case. • For details, refer to "Winding/Installing the Bobbin" (page 22). b top.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— d foot while raising the presser foot lever even Pass the embroidery frame under the presser Removing the embroidery frame further. Make sure that the sewing machine is completely stopped and follow the instructions below. a Raise the presser foot lever. a a Presser foot lever Remove the embroidery frame. CAUTION b twice to raise the needle. Press e (Needle position button) once or a ● Do not touch a button.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting Embroidery Patterns This section provides details on the various types of embroidery patterns available and the procedure for selecting a pattern. Copyright information The patterns saved in the sewing machine and embroidery cards are intended for private use only. Any public or commercial use of copyrighted patterns is an infringement of copyright law and is strictly prohibited.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— LCD (liquid crystal display) operation The LCD (liquid crystal display) is operated using the operation keys on the display panel. The use of the keys for embroidery will be explained below. Setting the display while embroidering Press (Settings key) and then (Next page key). Then, select the item by pressing .
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— NEEDLE COUNT: Needle progress number DISPLAY UNIT The measurement units that are displayed can be selected. [mm/inch] #123: Thread color number ■ LCD button Example: Selecting alphabet characters When a specific pattern is selected, press this key and then, press Select from the following thread color number sets (The display above is an example when EMBROIDERY (POLYESTER) THREAD# is selected.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Press this key to change the thread settings. Back one color Forward one color Back one stitch Press this key to select or cancel programmed thread cutting. Forward one stitch Press or to change the thread density (characters and frame patterns only). Press this key to adjust the pattern. • For details, refer to "Resewing" (page 147). The position of the pattern within the embroidery frame can be checked, and the size and angle can be changed.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting alphabet characters Specify the characters for embroidery. Memo z When "The pattern is too large for the embroidery frame" is displayed, no more characters can be input. z Characters from different fonts (sans serif and serif, etc.) cannot be combined. a Select the alphabet characters. b Select the font. c Enter the characters. Memo z If a character is pressed by mistake, press . z To enter a space, press "_".
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting an embroidery pattern There are 70 embroidery patterns, such as flowers and animals, saved in the machine's memory. 70 Embroidery patterns Selecting a frame pattern 10 shapes, such as squares and circles, can be combined with 12 stitch types. Memo Memo z Refer to "Embroidery Pattern Color Change Table" in the Quick reference guide for samples of completed patterns and the thread used. a Press .
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— c Switch the screen using Select the stitch. (Previous page key) and (Next page key), and select from the 12 stitches. b card slot on the right side of the sewing Insert the embroidery card in the embroidery machine. Face the arrow on the embroidery card toward you, and insert it in the direction of the arrow. X When a stitch is selected, it can be embroidered. Using an embroidery card c Turn on the sewing machine.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Embroidering After the preparations are done, you can try embroidering. This section describes the steps for embroidering and appliquéing. Example: Embroidery thread number selected Embroidering a pattern Embroidery patterns are embroidered with a change of thread after each color. a on the screen. Prepare embroidery thread of the color shown c a b d b needle.
EMBROIDERY d ————————————————————————————————————————————— Lower the presser foot lever. h Press (Start/stop button) again. X The embroidery begins again. X Stitching stops automatically with reinforcement after one color has been completed. When automatic thread cutting is set, the thread is cut. a i and repeat steps Set up embroidery thread for the next color, b through h. a Presser foot lever e Press X When the last color is sewn, "Finished sewing." will appear on the display.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— d and cut it out along the cut-out line. Remove the fabric from the embroidery frame, Appliquéing Cut carefully along the stitching and remove the thread. Prepare the base fabric and the appliqué fabric (appliqué piece). Press (Settings key), and set the thread color display to NAME OF COLOR, so "APPLIQUE MATERIAL", "APPLIQUE POSITION" and "APPLIQUE" are displayed on the screen. a Select an appliqué pattern.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— h adhesive to the back of the appliqué piece, and Apply a thin layer of fabric glue or spray attach it in the appliqué position. i Lower the presser foot lever, and press (Start/stop button). X The position for the appliqué is stitched, and the sewing machine stops. Memo z When "APPLIQUE MATERIAL", "APPLIQUE POSITION" and "APPLIQUE" are displayed, a specific color thread does not appear. Use a proper color thread to match the appliqué piece.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Editing and Saving Patterns This section describes ways to edit, adjust, reposition and memorize patterns. Adjusting the layout and the size c Check and adjust the layout. The pattern is normally positioned in the center of the embroidery frame. You can check the layout before starting embroidery and change the position and the size. Memo z Keys that appear surrounded with a dotted line (ex. ) cannot be used.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Size key Increases/decreases the size of Rotates the pattern 90 degrees to the left the pattern. Press to return to the previous screen. Rotates the pattern 90 degrees to the right Rotates the pattern 10 degrees to the left Rotates the pattern 10 degrees to the right Rotates the pattern 1 degree to the left Decreases size Rotates the pattern 1degree to the right Returns to original size.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Memo CAUTION ● Never lower the needle when the embroidery frame is moving. The needle may break or bend. ● When you have revised the pattern, check the display of available embroidery frames and use an appropriate frame. If you use an embroidery frame not displayed as available for use, the presser foot may strike the frame and possibly cause injury. Press (Back key) to return to the d previous screen.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Connecting character patterns f Press to turn it to . If the character pattern is too long to fit in the embroidery frame, follow the steps below. Example: Connecting "ABC" with "DEF" a Enter "ABC" and press . X The stitching starting point is set to lower left of the design. g Lower the presser foot, and then press (Start/stop switch) to begin sewing.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— l the needle to the embroidery end position of Use (change position keys) to move "ABC". Resewing When the wrong upper thread color has been sewn, it can be resewn with the correct color. a sewing machine. Press b Press c Press (Start/stop button) to stop the . a a Embroidery end position m Lower the presser foot, and then press (Start/Stop button) to embroider "DEF". . 4 n thread.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Thread runs out partway through a design When the upper thread or the bobbin thread runs out while sewing, the sewing machine stops. Move the needle back about 10 stitches and resume sewing. Stopping while embroidering If the embroidery is stopped before it is complete, check the current needle count and layout before turning off the sewing machine.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— d Press . X The selected pattern is turned off, and it returns to the initial embroidery screen. e h Note . i the beginning of the color you want to Press (Forward one color) to move to embroider. Turn off the sewing machine. z Always detach the embroidery unit when you move the sewing machine. Press j the needle count. Press (Forward one stitch) to increase If is pressed continuously, it moves forward 1 —> 9 —>30 stitches.
EMBROIDERY ————————————————————————————————————————————— Saving patterns Select the pattern you wish to retrieve. (Previous page key) and (Next page key). b Switch screens using The embroidery patterns and the alphabet characters you have customized can be saved in the sewing machine's memory. Since the saved patterns will not be erased when the power is turned off, you can always retrieve them for embroidery. This is convenient for saving names and the like.
5 APPENDIX The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described in this chapter. Care and Maintenance ..........................................................................................152 Troubleshooting ....................................................................................................154 Index .....................................................................................................................
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Care and Maintenance Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below. d remove the presser foot holder(page 45), and Loosen the presser foot holder screw and Cleaning the machine surface If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning it once with a damp cloth, wipe it again with a dry cloth.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— g remove any lint and dust from the race and Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to bobbin thread sensor and their surrounding area. i the needle plate, and then slide the cover back Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into on. a c a b a Needle plate cover a Cleaning brush b Race c Bobbin thread sensor CAUTION Note z Do not apply oil to the bobbin case.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Troubleshooting If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service. You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at [http://solutions.brother.com]. If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center. Symptom The sewing machine does not operate.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom The needle breaks. The upper thread breaks. Probable Cause The upper thread was not threaded correctly. Remedy Reference Correct the upper threading. page 32 The upper thread was not threaded correctly (for example, the spool is not installed correctly, the spool cap is too big for the spool being used, or the thread has come out of the needle bar thread guide.) Correct the upper threading.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Probable Cause The lower thread is tangled or breaks. A bobbin designed specifically for this machine is not used. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin designed specifically for this machine. page 22 The upper thread was not threaded correctly. Correct the upper threading. page 32 The upper thread was not threaded correctly. Correct the upper threading.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Stitches are skipped. A high-pitched noise is made while sewing. The thread does not pass through the eye of the needle. Probable Cause Remedy Reference The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 41 Dust has accumulated under the Remove the needle plate cover and needle plate or in the bobbin case. clean the race. page 152 Dust has accumulated in the feed dogs or in the bobbin case. Clean the race.
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Machine does not operate when embroidery key is pressed. Embroidery unit does not move. Probable Cause 158 Reference The embroidery unit is not attached. Attach the embroidery unit. page 123 No pattern selected. Select a pattern. page 132 The embroidery unit is not set up correctly. Set the embroidery unit up correctly. page 123 The fabric is not fully stretched on the embroidery frame. The fabric is loose.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Error messages When erroneous operations are performed messages and advice on operation will be displayed on the LCD. Follow what is displayed. If you press or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the message disappears. No Error Message Probable Cause 1 There is a possibility that the data for the selected pattern is corrupted.
APPENDIX No —————————————————————————————————————————————— Error Message Probable Cause 8 on the LCD was pressed when no card was inserted. 9 A stitch other than the buttonhole, bar tack or darning stitch was selected and the start/stop button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is lowered. 10 The buttonhole, bar tack or darning stitch was selected and the start/ stop button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is raised.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— No Error Message Probable Cause 17 The start/stop button was pressed after selecting a pattern which is saved in the machine’s memory without pressing (Retrieve key). 18 The reverse/reinforcement stitch button, needle position button or thread cutter button was pressed while the bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right. 19 A pattern is being saved.
APPENDIX No —————————————————————————————————————————————— Error Message Probable Cause 26 An Embroidery Memory Card that may not compatible with your machine has been inserted. • Certain licensed designs cannot be read by this machine. • Designs in an unacceptable card format cannot be read by this machine. • Design data saved in a hoop size not compatible with your machine has been selected. 27 You try to retrieve a pattern downloaded as one for a different machine.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting the LCD If nothing appears in the LCD when the sewing machine is turned on, the brightness of the LCD is either too light or too dark. In such a case, perform the following operation. a Turn off the sewing machine. Operation beep Each time a key is pressed you will hear one beep. If an incorrect operation is performed you will hear two or four beeps. ■ If a key is pressed (correct operation) One beep sounds.
APPENDIX d —————————————————————————————————————————————— Press OFF for the buzzer. X The screen for changing the beep setting appears. e Press (Back key). X The initial stitch screen appears again.
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Index A D accessories ................................................................. 8, 9 adjusting layout ..........................................................143 adjusting stitch length ...................................................59 adjusting stitch width ....................................................57 adjusting thread tension ....................................... 59, 145 air vent ..............................................
APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— handwheel ....................................................................11 heirloom stitching .......................................................114 help key ........................................................................13 hook-and-loop fastener .................................................66 I installing bobbin ...........................................................27 J joining ..........................................
———————————————————————————————————————————————————— smocking stitch ...........................................................109 solving operation problems .........................................154 spool cap ............................................................9, 23, 32 spool net ...................................................................9, 24 spool of thread ..............................................................31 stabilizer material ............................................
English XE3116-201c Printed in China