Installation Guide

Acoustic Cork Underlayment
(Floating Installations Only)
The flooring can be glued or floated directly over full-spread, permanently bonded acoustic cork. The cork should have a density
of no less than 11.4 lb./cubic foot. The cork, in general, should be pure cork combined with a polyurethane or resin binder.
Install cork in accordance with cork manufacturer’s recommendations. Always check for adequate adhesive bond. When floating
floors over cork DO NOT use foam underlayment.
Wood Subfloors and Underlayment
(Floating Installations Only)
General: The wood subflooring materials must not exceed 13% moisture content. Using a reliable wood moisture meter, measure
moisture content of both the subfloor and the hardwood flooring to determine proper moisture content. The difference between
the moisture content of the wood subfloor and the hardwood flooring must not exceed 4%. When installing parallel to the
floor joists it may be necessary to stiffen the subfloor system by installing an additional minimum of 3/8˝ (9.5 mm) approved
underlayment. Applicable standards and recommendations of the construction and materials industries must be met or exceeded.
NOTE: As flooring manufacturers, we are unable to evaluate each engineered system. Spacing and spans, as well as their
engineering methods, are the responsibility of the builder, engineer, architect or consumer who is better able to evaluate the
expected result based on site-related conditions and performance. The general information provided below describes common,
non-engineered joist/subfloor systems. Engineered flooring systems may allow for wider joist spacing and thinner subflooring
materials .
Wood Structural Panel Subfloors and Underlayment
(Floating Installations Only)
Structural panels/underlayment must be installed sealed side down. When used as a subfloor, allow 1/8˝ (3 mm) expansion
space between each panel. If spacing is inadequate, cut in with a circular saw. Do not cut in expansion space on tongue and
groove panels.
• Plywood: Must be minimum CDX grade (exposure 1) and meet US Voluntary Product Standard PS1 performance standard or
Canadian performance standard CAN/CSA 0325-0-92. The preferred thickness is 3/4˝ (19 mm) as a subfloor [minimum 5/8˝
(16 mm)] or 3/8˝ (9.5 mm) as underlayment.
• Oriented Strand Board (OSB): Conforming to US Voluntary Product Standard PS2 or Canadian performance standard CAN/
CSA 0325-0-92 construction sheathing. Check underside of panel for codes. When used as a subfloor, the panels must be
tongue and groove and installed sealed side down. Minimum thickness to be 23/32˝ (18 mm) thick when used as a subfloor
or 3/8˝ (9.5 mm) as underlayment.
• Waferboard and Chipboard: Conforming to US Voluntary Product Standard PS2 or Canadian performance standard CAN/CSA
0325-0-92. Must be 3/4˝ (19 mm) thick when used as a subfloor and 3/8˝ (9.5 mm) thick when used as an underlayment.
• Particleboard: Must be a minimum 40-lb. density, stamped underlayment grade and 3/4˝ (19 mm) thick.
Solid Wood Subfloors
(Floating Installations Only)
• Minimum 3/4˝ (19 mm) thick with a maximum width of 6˝ (15 cm) installed at a 45˚ angle to the floor joists.
• Group 1 dense softwood (Pine, Larch, Douglas Fir, etc.) No. 2 common, kiln dried with all board ends bearing on joists.
• For glue down applications add 3/8˝ (9.5 mm) approved underlayment.
Existing Wood Flooring
(Floating Installations Only)
• Existing engineered flooring must be well bonded/fastened. When gluing over existing wood flooring of any thickness, the
finishing materials must be abraded or removed to foster an adequate adhesive bond. When flooring is to be mechanically
fastened, the existing engineered wood flooring must be a minimum of 3/8˝ (9.5 mm) thick installed over approved wood/
wood composite underlayment that has been properly fastened. When installing over engineered flooring that is glued to
concrete, the minimum thickness of that flooring must be 1/2˝ (13 mm) to allow for the length of the fastener.
• Existing solid wood flooring that exceeds 6˝ (15 mm) in width must be covered with 3/8˝ (9.5 mm) approved underlayment
and fastened as required. Do not install over solid flooring attached directly to the concrete.
IV. INSTALLING THE FLOOR
Before You Start
• Before installing the planks, central heat or air conditioning should be operating for 14 days.
• Install only at room temperature above 60˚F (16˚C) and 35-55% humidity conditions.
• In rooms with under-floor (radiant) heating, the surface temperature of the subfloor may not, under any circumstances,
exceed 85˚F (29˚C). Increasing heat should be done in 5-degree increments. Ascertain that the subfloor is properly engineered
or controlled for the flooring being installed. Subfloors designed for materials with higher resistance to heat transfer, such as
carpet, WILL damage the flooring. Installations that include multiple floor covering products on a single heating circuit must
be adjusted for the flooring product with the highest heat transfer or lowest temperature requirement.
• When possible, preselect and set aside boards that blend best with all horizontally mounted moldings (reducer/stair nose
etc.) This will assure a uniform final appearance. Install these boards adjoining the moldings.
• Floor should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color and shade mixture.
• Be attentive to staggering the ends of the boards at least 6˝ (15 cm) when possible, in adjacent rows. This will help ensure a
more favorable overall appearance of the floor.
STEP 1: Doorway and Wall Preparation
(Floating Installations)
• Undercut door casings and jambs. Remove any existing base, shoe mold or doorway thresholds. These items can be replaced
after installation. When undercutting door casings the installer should confirm there is the recommended expansion space.
The floor must have 1/16˝ clearance under the door casing to be able to float freely without vertical restriction.
STEP 2: Plan Your Layout Using the Following Steps
(Floating Installations)
• Decide the direction of the floor installation in the room. Planks installed parallel to windows accent the floor the best. Floors
should be installed perpendicular to the floor joists. Stiffen subfloors as necessary to prevent vertical movement.
• NOTE: If your room exceeds a maximum room width of 30´ (9 m) or a maximum room length of 30´ (9 m) additional
expansion space is required. T- Moldings may be used at doorways or intersections to increase the expansion space.
STEP 3: Laying the Underlayment
(Floating Installations)
• Install the underlayment in the same direction that the hardwood
flooring is to be installed.
• Extend the underlayment a few inches up the wall.
• Trim excess prior to installing trim or moldings.
• The floating floor underlayment already has double-sided tape for
ease of taping the precut overlapping seams. If a non-adhesive
underlayment is used, tape all seams with the included tape.
STEP 4: Installing the First Row
(Floating Installations)
• Begin on the left side of the room and work right.
• Lay the first full piece with the small, tongue side facing the wall (Fig. 9).
• Install second and subsequent full pieces in the first row by aligning
short ends of boards and locking into place (Fig. 10).
• Use spacers along all sides that butt up against walls to maintain 1/4˝
(6.35 mm) to 1/2˝ (12.7 mm) expansion zone (Figs. 10 & 11).
• Continue laying boards in the first row until you need to cut the last
piece.
• Measure the distance between the wall and the face surface of the
last board. Subtract 1/4˝ (6.35 mm) and cut the board. (See cutting
instructions above.)
• If this distance is less than 8˝ (20.32 cm) go back to the first full plank
and cut approximately 8˝ (20.32 cm) from the end closest to the starting
wall. This will leave a longer piece at the end of the first row.
2
• When installing tile visuals, grout lines can be aligned or off-set. If the
tiles are being balanced in the room with equal-sized tile along each
wall, measurements and adjustments should be done before proceeding
to the second row.
STEP 5: Installing the Remaining Rows
(Floating Installations)
• Begin the second row of planks with the piece cut from the last piece
in the first row. If the piece is shorter than 8˝ (20.32 cm), cut a new
plank in half and use it to begin the second row. Whenever practical,
use the piece cut from the preceding row to start the next row. End
joints of all boards should be staggered 8” (20.32 cm) or more.
• Install the long end of the first board at an angle to the board in the
previous row. Keep this board at its natural angle slightly raised off the
subfloor (Fig. 13). Use a scrap piece of laminate to support the row if
needed.
• Continue installing full boards in the second row by angling the short
end of the next board in the row to lock into the previous board (Fig.
14). Position the board so that the long side of the board is close to
boards in the previous row and overlapping the groove of the boards
in the previous row.
• Angle up and push forward until the boards lock together (Fig. 15).
• Continue installing full boards in the second and subsequent rows until
you reach the wall on your right.
• Mark the last piece, cut and install. After all boards in the row are
installed, press or walk all boards flat to the subfloor to begin the next
row (Fig. 16).
• Use a pull bar when necessary to ensure joints are tight (Fig. 17).
STEP 6: Installing the Last Row
(Floating Installations)
• The last row in the installation may need to be cut lengthwise.
• Place the row of planks to be fit on top of the last row of installed
planks. Use a divider or a piece of the plank as a scribe to trace the
contour of the wall (Fig. 18).
• Be sure to place a spacer between the marking pen and “scribe” piece
of board. This adds the 1/4˝ (6.35 mm) to 1/2˝
(12.7 mm) space you need at the finish wall (Fig. 18).
• Mark where the board should be cut.
• If the fit at the finish wall is simple and straight, just measure for the
correct width and cut.
• After the last row is installed, use the pull bar to tighten the joints.
• When appropriate, cut the underlayment even with the top of the floor
(Fig. 19).
• Whenever practical, use cut pieces from previous rows as a starter
board to reduce waste.
• Maintain 6˝ (15 cm) spacing between end joints after the first four
rows for best appearance.
STEP 7: Installing Under a Door Jamb
(Floating Installations)
• Installations of locking engineered floors under moldings, such as a
door jamb, may require that the top lip of the groove on the end be
reduced in size.
• Using a small plane or knife plane, shave off the ledge off the groove.
• After the groove edge has been trimmed, place the board into place and tighten with a pull bar to test for fit. The installer
must be certain that the proper expansion space is maintained and the flooring is not pinched.
• If fit is incorrect, trim as necessary. Remove any wax from the end joint so you will get good adhesion.
• Place a bead of recommended wood glue on the bottom lip of the groove.
• Reinsert the tongue into the groove and tighten the board with a pull bar. Hold the board in place with painters tape (3M
Scotch-Blue
™
2080 Tape) until the glue is dry. Do not use masking tape or duct tape, as the finish may be damaged.
STEP 8: Completing the Installation
(All Installation Methods)
• Remove all wedges and tape if used.
• Clean floor with the recommended hardwood flooring cleaner.
• Trim all underlayment and install, or re-install, all base and/or quarter round moldings. Nail moldings into the wall, not the
floor. Inspect the floor, filling all minor gaps with the appropriate blended filler.
• If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable material such as cardboard. Do not cover with plastic.
• Leave warranty and floor care information with the owner. Advise them of the product name and code number of the flooring
they purchased.
• To prevent surface damage, avoid rolling heavy furniture and appliances on the floor. Use plywood, hardboard or appliance
lifts if necessary. Use protective castors/castor cups or felt pads on the legs of furniture to prevent damage to the flooring.
V. TRANSITION AND WALL MOLDINGS
• Reducer Strip: A teardrop shaped molding used around fireplaces, doorways, as a room divider, or as a transition between
hardwood flooring and adjacent thinner floor coverings. Fasten down with adhesive, small nails or double-faced tape.
• Threshold: A molding undercut for use against sliding door tracks, fireplaces, carpet, ceramic tile, or existing thresholds to
allow for expansion space and to provide a smooth transition in height difference. Fasten to subfloor with adhesive and/or
nails through the heel. Predrill nail holes to prevent splitting.
• Stair Nosing: A molding undercut for use as a stair landings trim, elevated floor perimeters, and stair steps. Fasten down
firmly with adhesive and nails or screws. Predrill nail holes to prevent splitting.
• Quarter Round: A molding used to cover expansion space next to baseboards, case goods, and stair steps. Predrill and nail
to the vertical surface, not into the floor.
• Combination Base and Shoe: A molding used when a base is desired. Used to cover expansion space between the floor and
the wall. Predrill and nail into the wall, not the floor.
• T-Molding: A molding used as a transition piece from one rigid flooring to another of similar height or to gain expansion
spaces. Fasten at the heel in the center of the molding. Additional rigid support may need to be added to the heel of the
molding dependent upon the thickness of the goods covered. Do not use this molding as a transition to carpet.
Reducer Strip Threshold Stair Nosing Quarter Round T-Molding
Figure 9
1/4"
Figure 11
Figure 10
Figure 13
Figure 14
Figure 15
Figure 16
Figure 17