Instructions / Assembly
14 15
Water Heater Elements
Q: I don’t have hot water. How do I determine
what is wrong?
A:
Check the breaker or fuse box for a blown fuse or
tripped breaker. If this is not the problem, shut off the power
to the water heater. (IMPORTANT!) The problem may be
caused by a defective or shorted element(s) or thermostat(s)
or both. If you are experienced with plumbing and electrical
tools, you can do the repairs yourself. If you are at all
hesitant, call a plumber or electrician. Camco Mfg. provides
a water heater tester (#10023) that lets you test the elements
and thermostats while they remain installed on the heater.
Instructions are included.
Q: What causes water heater elements to fail, some
sooner than others?
A:
Several reasons: power surges, lightning, dry-firing (see
below) and lime build-up. Most water heaters come with
standard high watt-density (HWD) elements. These are the
least expensive type, and are more susceptible to these
problems. On a “Standard-Better-Premium” scale the
HWD elements are Standard.
Q: Why are some water heater elements folded back?
A:
These are low watt-density (LWD) elements. The heat
(watts) per square inch of surface has been lowered by 50%
from that of a regular element. In order for total heat to be
the same, the total surface has been increased. It is folded
back so the length will fit the tank. Not all LWD elements are
fold-backs. In areas with “hard” water, a LWD element resists
lime build-up on its surface, thus extending its life. These
elements are BETTER.
Q: What are Lime Life elements?
A:
These elements are Premium. They are made of nickel/
stainless steel and are ultra low watt-density. These features
prevent lime build-up and extend the life of the element.
A Lime Life element resists dry-firing. These elements carry
a limited 5 year warranty. Because of the low watt-density,
these elements are folded back to reduce the length. Some
are rippled to further reduce the length to fit the diameter of
the tank.
Q: What is meant by the term “dry-firing?”
A:
High watt density and low watt-density are designed to
function in water. If not surrounded by water, the intense
heat they generate (dry fire) will cause them to burn out. The
water tank must be full of water whenever the power is on.
Dry-fire failure is not covered by any warranty. It is a human
error. Dry-fired elements are easily detected. The element is
soft and easily bent. In most cases, a hole is burned through
the surface.
Q: Can I replace the element in my water heater with
elements with higher wattage?
A:
It is not recommended. The water heater is designed
for that element size. Higher wattage might require heavier
gauge wire and a larger capacity circuit breaker.
Q: Why do some elements of the same style, wattage and
voltage come in different lengths?
A:
Different manufacturers have different designs. The
shorter element has a wider diameter tubing; the longer
element has a narrower diameter, but heat output is
measured by total surface. Both have the same amount of
surface and both will fit all standard water heaters. Quality is
the same.
Q: Can I use a water heater element in an application
other than a water heater?
A:
It is not recommended. These elements are designed
specifically for residential water heaters. We have no
experience or knowledge of other uses. You may do so at
your own risk. Non-water heater use of our elements and
thermostats voids all warranties.
Q: I just installed a water heater element and now my
heater makes a humming sound.
A:
This is called a “harmonic.” If the element is installed
so that the loop is horizontal, the vibration from the electric
current will cause the element to hum. This noise can be
prevented by installing so that the loop is vertical. The flanged
elements have arrows on the flange indicating the vertical
position of the loop. To eliminate the humming on screw-
in elements, tighten the element another half turn. In some
instances, less than a half turn will stop the harmonic.
Q: Why aren’t the two elements operating
simultaneously?
A:
In most residential water heaters only one element is on
at any given time. The lower element does 90% or more of
the heating. During periods of heavy use, the upper element
clicks on (the lower switches off) and heats the upper part of
the tank to 120°. It then shuts off, turns on the lower, and it
heats the water to the setting of the lower thermostat.
Frequently Asked Questions
Water Heater Thermostats
Q: Are water heater thermostats adjustable?
A:
Most water heater thermostats provided by Camco
are adjustable. They are factory set at 120°. On a two-
element water heater, it is not recommended that the
upper thermostat be adjusted. If higher water temperature
is desired, adjust the lower to a higher setting. Both may be
lowered if a cooler temperature is desired.
Q: On thermostats without a degree dial, what are the
temperatures
of the dial settings?
A:
The temperature range is:
the Dot = 110° F
Hot= 120° F
A= 130° F
B= 140° F
C= 150° F
Very Hot= 160° F
Q: At what temperature should I set the thermostats?
A:
Water heater thermostats are factory pre-set at 120°.
However, most are adjustable. It is recommended that the
upper thermostat remain set at 120°. If a higher temperature
is desired, adjust only the lower thermostat. Caution: High
temperature can cause injury.
Q: I noticed that there are two styles of water
heater thermostats. Are they interchangeable?
A:
Yes, like models of the two thermostat manufacturers
are interchangeable. Use caution in selecting the correct
model for their position on the heater (upper, lower, single
element T-stat).
Q: How do I know which thermostat to buy?
A:
A two-element water heater has two thermostats: an
upper and a lower. Each must be replaced with a thermostat
with the same function: upper for upper, lower for lower.
They cannot be interchanged, as they perform specific
functions. A single-element water heater has only one
thermostat and that is called a “single element thermostat.”
The upper and lower thermostats for a two-element heater
cannot be used on a single-element water heater and vice
versa.
Other Miscellaneous Questions
Q: The Temperature and Pressure relief valve has a
threaded outlet. What attaches to it?
A:
The T&P valve outlet must have a run-off tube attached
to it. Most building codes require a tube that terminates 6"
from the floor. If the T&P valve activates, water should flow
into a drain or into a water heater pan that is plumbed to a
drain. This run-off tube may be metal or plastic. Check local
plumbing codes for correct material for your area.
Q: What are dielectric fittings and connectors?
A:
When fittings of unlike metals are joined together
(copper with brass, brass with steel, etc.) the faint electrical
current that is present in any water pipe system will cause
erosion of the threads in one or both of the fittings and
cause leaking. The plastic liner or sleeve in the dielectric
fittings and connectors prevents this from happening.
Note: Stainless steel fittings and connectors are naturally
dielectric and do not need the plastic lining.
Q: What is an anode rod?
A:
It is a magnesium or aluminum rod inserted in the
heater, from the top, in an opening of its own or as part of
the outlet nipple. The metal is self-sacrificing (corrodes);
this protects the tank and elements from corroding.
Replacement anode rods are available and easy to install.
Q: Are water heater drain pans necessary?
A:
It depends on the plumbing codes in your area and the
location of your water heater. If your heater is in a garage or
a non-finished basement where leaking water would flow
harmlessly into a drain, a pan is not necessary. However, if
the heater is in or above a living space where leaking could
cause extensive water damage, it is cheap insurance to
protect your home from such an event.
Q: What type of pan should be used?
A:
For gas water heaters, only metal pans can be used.
Codes in some areas require metal pans for all water heaters
installed in a living space. If codes allow, plastic pans can be
used with electric water heaters.
Q: I opened the drain valve and very little water flowed.
A:
You probably have sediment and scale build-up on the
bottom of the tank that is blocking the valve. In areas where
the water is very “hard” or well water is used, lime build-up
can occur. The high heat of the heater elements will cause
scale and sediment to coat the elements and settle on the
tank bottom. Light build-up of sediment may be removed
by attaching a water hose to the drain valve. Drain the tank
every 6-12 months, more often if necessary. Important: Turn
off power first or it could cause element burn out.
Q: What is the purpose of a water heater stand?
A:
A stand is used primarily with gas water heaters when
installed in garages and basements where combustible fumes
may exist. Gas heaters have an open flame, and tests have
shown that placing a gas water heater at least 16" above
the floor will offer some protection against combustion of
volatile fumes.
...about Water Heater Parts