Specifications

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The manual steering boxes must be secured with a minimum of three socket head cap screws with high collar lock washers.
The threads in the manual steering box must be drilled out for clearance of the 7/16" socket head cap screws so that the bolts
can be installed through the steering box into the mounting plate.
TIE RODS:
Each of our kits include the necessary long & short tie rods for your conversion. The long tie rod connects the two front wheels,
while the other connects the Pitman arm to the passenger side steering knuckle/center socket tie rod. Both tie rods are
manufactured with both a right & left hand thread to assist in proper alignment. The Pitman arm that we have furnished with your
kit has exactly the same taper that the Jeep tie rod ends have. Care should be taken for the proper fit of the tie rod end’s taper
and threads when installing into the Pitman arm. In some cases, it may be necessary to use two or three washers on the top
side of the Pitman Arm so that the threads on the tie rod end will secure the proper taper fit. All tie rod ends must be secured with
a castle nut and cotter pin. All tie rod-to-tie rod end connections must have a tie rod clamp installed with a bolt, lock washer, and
nut. We DO NOT find it acceptable to cut and weld the tie rods.
PITMAN ARMS:
The steering box Pitman arms vary from power to manual, and are not interchangeable. The Pitman arm supplied in each kit
is for use on vehicles that are not equipped with a suspension lift.
If your vehicle requires a dropped Pitman Arm, then
we suggest that you contact a suspension lift company. We DO NOT find it acceptable to cut or bend our Pitman Arms.
POWER STEERING PUMPS:
There are only a few pumps available and most are interchangeable. We recommend the purchase of the power steering pump
and steering box as a pair if possible. For proper installation, special hoses will probably have to be made. The hardware for
mounting the pump to the engine can be standard parts from Chevy & Ford engines. Stock 4 & 6 cylinder applications require
you to fabricate or modify existing standard brackets. On occasion, we carry power steering pumps which are listed at the
end of the steering section.
TURNING ANGLE ADJUSTMENT:
To avoid damage to the outer axle U-joints, it is advisable that you check the turning angle. The following is a list of the correct turning
angles.
CJ2A, CJ3A 23 Degrees CJ5 Up to Serial No. 57548-48284, 23 Degrees
CJ3B Up to Serial No. 57348-35326, 23 Degrees CJ5 After Serial No. 57548-48284, 27.5 Degrees
CJ3B After Serial No. 57348-35326, 27.5 Degrees CJ6 Up to Serial No. 57748-12497, 23 Degrees
CJ6 After Serial No. 57748-12497, 27.5 Degrees
To adjust the turning angle stops, loosen the lock nut and turn the adjustment screw. On some early models, a secured weld will
have to be broken. The adjusting screw is located on the axle tube near the knuckle housing. For further detailed information, refer
to your vehicle service manual.
CASTER ADJUSTMENT:
The purpose of the caster adjustment is to provide steering stability, which will keep the front wheels in a straight ahead position.
It also assists in straightening the wheels after making a turn. If the angle of the caster is found to be incorrect, correct it to the
specifications given in your service manual. The correct angle is obtained by installing caster shims between the axle pad and the
springs. If the camber and the toe-in are correct and it is known that the axle is not twisted, a check may be made by testing the vehicle
on the road. Before road testing, make sure that the tires are properly inflated at the same pressure. If the vehicle turns easy to either
side, but is hard to straighten out, insufficient caster for ease of handling is indicated. If correction is necessary, it can be accomplished
by changing the shims between the spring and axle pads.
TOE-IN ADJUSTMENT:
Lift the front of the vehicle to raise the front tires off of the ground. Turn the wheels to the straight ahead position. Using a pencil
or chalk, scribe a line in the center of each tire tread. The mark should circle the entire diameter of the tire. Measure the distance
between the scribe lines at the front and rear of the wheels, using care that both measurements are made at an equal distance from
the floor level. The distance between the lines should be greater at the rear then at the front by 3/64" to 3/32”. To adjust, loosen the
clamp bolts and turn the long tie rod with a small pipe wrench. The tie rod is threaded with right hand and left hand threads to provide
equal adjustment at both wheels. Do not overlook the retightening of the two clamp bolts. It is a common practice to measure between
the wheel rims. This is satisfactory providing the wheels run true. By scribing a line on the tire thread, a measurement is taken between
the road contact points reducing error caused by wheel rim run out.
It is recommended to have the alignment done by a qualified technician.
saginaw steering conversions (1941-79)